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Routes as trad in Ruined Castle

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Showing all 16 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Jungle Jellies

Right facing jam crack then bulging orange wall and finger crack crux. Finish up easy wall above to rap anchors on ledge. Bring a full rack of wires and a few medium cams.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

Trad 20m
17 Possum Police

Climb corner as for 'Winter Solstice' then move left under bulge. Continue straight up wall on pockets, then upper wall on small edges to ledge.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Sharyn George & Kym Sinclair, 1997

Trad 25m
14 Winter Solstice

Starts below a jagged flake on the right end of the wall. Climb small right-facing corner to flake, then around right to finish up slab. Walk off left or rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Kym Sinclair, 1997

Trad 25m
18 Tiger Mitres Central Organ

Meaty. In the centre of the wall is an appealing Arapilisean flake crack. Follow this to where it almost joins the shallow corner on the left. Continue right and up to terrace. Be careful of hollow flake in the middle.

FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991

FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1991

Trad 20m
20 A Northern Pharos Kitten

Cute. Start right of TMCO, 2m left Legend Of 'The Fall'. Climb small right facing corner to overlap, step left then up to tree. Rap off tree.

FA: Greg Caire, Geoff Butcher & Tanya Freeman, 1997

Trad 20m
13 Legends Of The Fall

Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall.

FA: Kym Sinclair, Sharyn George & Geoff Butcher, 1997

Trad 10m
20 Short Sharp Shock

Steeper and nicer than it looks. Climb the obvious steep, short crack 2m right of Legends Of the Fall to ledge.

FA: Greg Caire & Tanya Freeman, 1997

Trad 15m
17 A Good Day Out

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

FA: Greg Caire, Tanya Freeman & Geoff Butcher , 1997

Trad 30m
17 A Good Day Out Direct Finish

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2006

Trad 30m
16 The Shortest Day

20m right of 'A Good Day Out'. Climb nice looking crack 3m left of 'Gorker' to under overlap. Exit left. Rap from tree.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair & Sharyn George, 1997

Trad 25m
17 Gorker

The first obvious line on the compact wall left of The Snack bar. Climb small orange corner moving left at bulge. Continue up shallow grey corner.

FA: Michael Hampton, 1991

Trad 25m
17 Carcazonz Crack

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006

Trad 35m
18 The Knights Templar

Enjoyable, interesting trad climbing and a nice way to get to the 3rd tier. Starts 1m left of Carcassonne and Cassoulet at undercut left leading crack. Pull on and head left up nice crack with decent gear and better holds than expected. Mantle to reach large ledge at about 12m, then move right over Carcassonee and Cassoulet past bush and traverse easily (without any gear past the bush) to the base of the 3rd tier. Be wary of choss near the end.

FA: Josef Goding & Achim Gross, 2007

Trad 22m
17 Carcassonne And Cassoulet

Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2006

Trad 35m
15 Flanked

Start on rib as for 'Alexius' but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2007

Trad 25m
7 Unknown

Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack!

FA: Pete Donald & Jackie Colhan, 2006

Trad 10m

Showing all 16 routes.

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