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Routes as trad in Death March Wall

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Showing all 38 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
18 Heart of Darkness

Diagonal crack with strange blocks poking out of it just left of "Chimney Thief". Finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Gordon Talbett, 1978

Trad 35m
8 Chimney Thief

On the front of the block, around left from "Pickpocket" is a bottomless chimney. Finsih up a slabby arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 35m
19 R Pickpocket

Nice pocket pulling. Used to be very poorly protected and probably still is. A few metres down left of Dark Struggle is a steeply overhung groove, becoming a crack at half-height.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Peter Watling. Easter., 1980

Trad 10m
14 Dark Struggle

Awkward diagonal on opposite side of gully from "Coldfinger".

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, David Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1979

Trad 15m
13 Coldfinger

Climb the corner just left of "Brittle Bondage" and then a juggy groove.

FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Trad 25m
15 R Brittle Bondage

A few metres left of "Snap, 'Crackle', Pop", climb the right arete of a corner to a ledge. Move right and curse up a hard corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1978

Trad 27m
15 Snap, Crackle, Pop

Up the gully, 15 metres left of "Diaghilev", a groove leads to a right-leading ramp. Up ramp to final corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1978

Trad 27m
19 Diaghilev

A full value pitch.

Zig-zag crack 3 metres left of Not Waving But Drowning until it ends. Move right to an incipient corner. Up this then traverse left a fair distance to a vertical crack which takes you straight to the top via the centre of the summit block.

FA: Keith Egerton & Gordon Talbett, 1978

Trad 45m
23 X The Rite of Spring

Start up white streak 2m R of Diaghilev. One thin move with ground fall potential leads to better protected climbing up to jug and crack. Step right on to orange wall and weave up the centre of the wall with sparse and small protection. Sustained and technical crux. Falling off would be very exciting to say the least.

FA: Mark Wood, 2008

Trad 40m
18 Not Waving But Drowning

Great sustained jamming.

The major diagonal crack at the left end of the cave.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter Cunningham, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Iain Sedgman, 1978

Trad 40m
16 Old Stoic

Seems contrived.

Start as for Not Falling But Flailing. Go 4 metres up the diagonal and step right across to a ledge. Step towards the right arete (crossing Not Falling But Flailing) and climb the crack and then the upper left wall before finishing up the final arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993

Trad 40m
21 R Not Falling But Flailing

Start: Start at the left end of the cave at the major diagonal crack (Not Waving But Drowning).

Pull unto the diagonal crack and immediately step right onto the wall. Diagonally right up the wall (protection behind loose blocks) to a ledge. Finish up crack 3 metres left of arete.

FA: Keith Egerton & Peter Cunningham c, 1979

Trad 35m
20 Harelip DS

More a problem than a climb.

Boulder the break in the overhang 10 metres left of the original start. Either continue up the route or traverse back right to the ground.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2000

Trad
11 Harelip

From the start of Whispers, traverse left on the lip of the overhang to the arete. Head up left of huge blocks and continue past more blocks.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Trad 42m
16 Whispers

Start in the same place as Fiery God.

Trend left up the slabs to below the orange streaks in the overlaps. Through the overlaps via the orange streaks and continue up over another bulge to finishing finger cracks.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 35m
14 The Kevin Heinze Memorial Route

Start: Start as for Fiery God.

Climb up to the overlap and climb it. Move 2 metres left to a second crack and go up right to a second bulge. Over bulge, moving slightly left, and continue more easily.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 35m
18 Fiery God

Start 3 metres left of "Bea-Lea" where a thin crack leads up a slab to an overhang.

Climb up to the overhang and step right into a cave. No up the steep crack.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Trad 30m
19 Casey Gone Mouldy

Looks very like a repeat of Fiery God.

Start at the corner 2 metres left of Bea-Lea.

Up the right-leaning crack, the roof and slab above to the thin crack to the overhang. Through the overhang and up to top.

FA: Bede Harrington & Jill Wilson, 1990

Trad 35m
10 Bea-Lea

Not worth the trouble.

Start 3 metres left of Ragamuffin.

Traverse right under the overhang to the arete. Up the crack for 3 metres then go left above overhangs to the arete. Up to a small corner.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Tim Stewart, 1978

Trad 35m
10 Ragamuffin

Start up the arete to reach the crack and follow this to the overhang. Pull over this to excessive jugs.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Savage God" at a slab with a crack up it.

FA: Peter Watling & Tim Stewart, 1978

Trad 30m
17 Oh God

Beautiful slab but a bit contrived. The finish was originally done as a variant finish to "Savage God" possibly by Hugh Foxcroft.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992

Trad 35m
21 Savage God

Good line with a hard finish. Only worth the grade if you take into consideration the horrific rope drag that is likely to be experienced.

Amble up the slabby corner, move left under the first overlap, then left again under the second overlap to reach the left arete. Now swing up right above the roof and go up the wall.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Trad 35m
19 My Grandmother Was A Reptile

Start as for Savage God.

The corner to the overhang, traverse right, around the first overhang then up to the roof. Traverse right.

FA: Bede Harrington & Mark Nitschke, 1990

Trad 30m
14 The Gods Must Be Crazy

Campbell Mercer repeated and named this route that had previously been written up as a variant to Savage God.

Start up Savage God then take flakes up the right wall. At the final roof, traverse right or go over the roof.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran., 1978

Trad 30m
11 Icon

Centre of rib 1 metre left of "Wheelchair Slalom".

FA: Kieran Loughran & Nick Reeves, 1979

Trad 30m
4 Wheelchair Slalom

Easy chimney 3 metres left of "Trial Balance".

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 30m
13 Not Just A Tap Dance

Start as for Wheelchair Slalom.

Up for 3 metres, then take vertical crack on right face up to left side of block. Stepping up take diagonal crack on left for 3 metres then straight up.

FA: Bev Dick, Dale Wakefield, Rob Pease & Monica Gallus, 1994

Trad 35m
9 Trial Balance

The crack 3 metres left of The Hot Club to a ledge. Finish up a corner on the right.

FA: Stephen Abbott, Iain Sedgman & Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

Trad 30m
20 The Hot Club

Nice line but contrived climbing.

Thin cracks up wall 3 metres left of Reinhardt to a ledge on the left.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Neil Barr, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling & Keith Egerton. Easter, 1980

Trad 10m
18 Reinhardt

Another hard move.

The line 2 metres left of Grappelli.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling & Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 30m
18 Grappelli

One hard move.

The line 4 metres left of Layback And Enjoy It.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Keith Egerton & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 30m
16 Charles Atlas
Trad 30m
18 Layback and Enjoy lt

Lovely line on beautiful rock.

Start as for No Head For Heights and follow the thin line to the left edge of the roof. Swing left and finish up the steep crack.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 35m
18 No Head For Heights

The route "Charles Atlas" (SWG ICG) is almost certainly a repeat of this climb.

Start up the slabby diagonal line just left of Robert Bruce. Move left up the line until you can reach up right to a flake which leads to the right-hand side of the large triangular roof. At the roof, move right and up the crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham, M.Spence & Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 30m
16 Frumpy Old Women

The crack 1 metre left of "Robert Bruce" and buttress above.

FA: Bede Harrington & Jill Wilson, 1990

Trad 30m
17 Robert Bruce

Crack system 4 metres left of "Small" to an easy slab.

FA: Keith Egerton & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Trad 30m
5 Small

Arete and wall 3 metres left of "Urchin" and crawl through a slot. Now slab on left.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1980

Trad 20m
6 Urchin

An easy crack at the right-hand end of the cliff.

FA: Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 15m

Showing all 38 routes.

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