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Routes as sport in Equaliser Wall

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Showing all 15 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
25 Leaning Power Teaser

Batman start.

Start: About 50m past Cleopatra's Bath and about 80 metres before the fence at the start of Walls Ledge.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

Sport 15m
Project

There's a lonely line of spider-webby ringbolts up the wall about 20m L of Pooferator. Bolted by Vince Day and now open? No doubt it'll be hard.

Sport
31 Poo-ferator

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area. The only route in this sector without an irritating batman start, but you still have to stick clip. Start up the log near the end of the hand rail. Like the sign says, please don't belay in the bushes (belaying on the track is fine if you step left). Jack Masel Rick

FA: S.Grkovic, 2002

Sport 15m, 7
32 Truck Stop 31

Links the crux of Pooferator into the crux of Equaliser. Roman (starts at 12:35)

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2004

Sport 18m
33 Keep on Truckin'

Pooferator into Truckstop into Horseshoe into Fabricator.

Sport 25m
28 Equaliser

Was once the hardest route at the crag, and was originally graded 31! Fairly quickly downgraded to a solid 28, but since then some holds have crumbled/gone, making the route more sustained, and better! Maybe still 'just' a solid 28, or maybe 29, but whatever the grade, its a bloody ripper power endurance testpiece so just get on it!

Start on the right hand side of the huge scoop near the left hand end of the railing. Please stick clip and batman - do NOT trample the vegetation.

The anchor has 2 clip-n-go captive biners. These are the dodgy cast style and need to be replaced ASAP, probably by hacksawing them off. They shouldn't be trusted in the meantime.

FA: G. Fieg, 1995

Sport 20m, 6
28 De-Equaliser

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

Sport
28 La Forche Be With You

Links the first 4 bolts of 'Equaliser' into the finish of 'Pooferator', avoiding both cruxes. What a train station in Paris has got to do with this route is anyone's guess.

FA: S. Grkovic, 2002

Sport 18m
29 The Horseshoe

A link up. Take 'Equaliser' to near 4th bolt then bouldery past a RB on the R to join 'Fabricator'.

FA: Vince Day, 2009

Sport 18m, 6
28 Fabricator

Starts as Equaliser, but goes straight up.

FA: B.Littleford

Sport 18m
29 Cagney and Lacey

Up 'Equaliser' to hole before 3rd bolt, then R to thin stuff and overlap. Finishes at a single bolt below the choss. Back jump to previous bolt below overlap with bail biner to clean.

FA: Garth Miller, 1998

Sport 15m
28 Demoraliser

Start 2m R of 'Equaliser'. Stick clip advisable because the first holds aren't positive and are usually wet, even if they don't look it. Wobble up onto the fence, and delicately step onto face. Up the steepening wall with each move getting a bit harder than the previous one... Lower off the huge bizarre single ringbolt with a double-coiled 6-inch eye.

FA: J.Clark, 2001

Sport 15m
27 Iron Mike

The obvious 'line' on this side of the crag. Desperate side pulling. In early 2011 some crux holds came off so now its certainly not soft for the grade.

Start below the right facing corner and seam. Stickclip and batman to first bolt. Use long draws on 2nd & 3rd bolts so your rope doesn't scrub on the flake.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1995

Sport 15m, 7
29 Decodyfier

Thin and balancy...and powerful.

Batman start and then up the flake as for 'Iron Mike' before busting out right through some of the finest face climbing Shipley has to offer.

FA: S.Grkovic, 1999

Sport 20m
26 Slay Ride

Start behind the tree 12m R of Iron Mike. Batman start. Depending on the length of your draws it may be wise to extend the 4th so it doesn't grind your rope on the little lip if you whip. One of the dryest routes at Shipley when the seepage lines are all pumping down the rest of the wall.

FA: L.Wishart, 1999

Sport 20m

Showing all 15 routes.

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