Routes as trad in Cosmic County

Corner and groove.

Arete 2m right.

Start right of the arete.

Start 5m right of EP.

Start 4m right of LPR right of the arete.

Start 25m right of RW. Arete to ledge then left up flake and wall.

Start 2m right of DP.

Up CO then traverse right to bolt (FH's now replaced with rings), up, break, up then right to ledge. 2). Corner and wall.

Start 20m right of CO. Yellow blocky corner, left to blank corner, to roof, over and right to arete. Take care!

Start as for GE to first corner.

Start 2m right of P. Thin corner.

Start as for Midlife Crisis but into RR then right following hangers.

Up to fixed hanger above the belay bolt. Up.

Start 2m right of the belay bolt. Short left leading flake, left 3m then up flakes trending right. Traverse right into the original.

Start marked. Right and up onto ledge, wall, thin flake and seam, left to belay. 2). Right, then left up corner, around the arete and up left through roof.

Short. Start a few metres left of the "39 Steps" ladder on ledge at brightly painted "T".

Start 10m right again. Short scrubby groove, arete and corner.

Start at tree at the back of the Lighthouse Rock. Interesting start. Can be done without the tree at grade 19.

Start 27m right of the 39 Steps. Follow thin rightward leading diagonal to roof, left along lip to short corner, up and off.

An easier (though less pleasant) start to Incandescence up the corner right of the original line, rejoining Incandescence at its crux.

The vegetated corner cracks 9m right of I.

The open book corner 8m right of LO. Excellent and varied corner crack climbing on nice rock. Definitely one to do if you have ticked off the other classic cracks the County has to offer. Don't be put off by the vegetation, it is mostly bridged around and is fairly inoffensive.

Reportedly freed by Derek Thatcher and Zac Vertrees. Start up Aesthetic Images to its 2nd bolt, then rising traverse left to gain line of bolts right of Candle Power. About grade 29.

Long Life. Freed by Mal Grey. Aided at 22M0, scary.

Start 17m right of A.

Not a lot of pro and the 1st carrot looks rubbish.

The slabby corner initialed K&Q, just right of X. Has been the scene of at least one accident. The entire crack is solidly overgrown and presumably difficult to protect. Take Care!! Watch for loose blocks at top.

Probably never repeated. Traverse in 3 pitches from K&Q to Comfortably Numb. Take care.

Steep, thin and strenuous. The best thin crack in the mountains, maybe? Crack 4m right of BEC, to a lower-off. Take a single rack up to fist sized, plus plenty of extras in the tips-fingers range.

Seam 5m right of GD, left of the arete.

"This is the way the world ends, not with a bang but a whimper" (T. S. Elliot's The Hollow Men). Fantastic hard climbing. Big moves or big whippers! Stick clip the high first bolt and climb the awesome seam past another 7 or so fixed hangers. Bring trad for between the first two bolts (#0.4-#0.75 cams, small wires). Continue past the lower offs and top the cliff for full value - hopefully the anchor will be moved up next rebolt.

Start: Right of the arete. After hard boulder start it is much easier than it looks. Rebolted 2015, including a lower-off. Bring 5 bolt plates, wires, a sling for thread and a few cams including #4 camalot. Start is now protectable preclipping RB as wire placements have all blown.

Start 1m right of IRBS. Straight up. Previously protected by carrots but they have since disappeared. Bad pro and long run outs with potential ground fall.

Start 2m right again. Onto wall left of bolt, up, slightly left to flake, wall on right, then up past two more bolts to crack and up to chains. Take wires.

As for CaS to break, right and up past bolts. Finish as for CaS.

Start at gum tree 11m right of HPD. Daunting but nevertheless an excellent climb right up the middle of the wall. Take friends. Has apparently had lower offs added but you will need a very long rope.

On the headwall above Candy Man. Carrots.

The vegetated crack. "Had to be cleaned and will get better with more ascents" ... it doesn't look like its upkeep has been maintained!

1m right again. The first bolt has gone walkabout.

Start: 4m right of C. 1) Corner (rings?) to ledge. 2). Up to top following bolts.

Quaint! Lefthand route on the Mousetrap wall. Up, trending left. 3 carrots and a 0.5 cam. Belay off half-dead tree (can back up off some poorly situated carrots nearby).

Adequately protected but take care! Start just below rightward leading flake. Up flake to thin gear, then up face to top. Belay on DBB and walk off right.

Good route, 6m right of CN. Up red wall via 2 bolts, large cam at the start is also useful. At lip of roof traverse to flake. Up wall to bolt. A bit heady, enjoy.

Marked arete 5m right of P. Looks great from the top of The Eighty Minute Hour. Take care!

Chossy top wall of Memory Lane! Start 6m right of the finish of Fantastic Voyage.

Start 14m up and right of S&D, near the top of the gully.

Start 3m R of M. Veer right and up.

Start on the right side of Memory Lane, 15m diagonally right and up from FV, 5m L of WW. Up and rightwards to arete, up arete then left across wall, up and right on flakes to arete and up to tree. 2). Take lefthand line to the top - getting into and out of the cave is interesting.

A classic vegetated crack corner grovel, 3m right of NB&P, 2m L of WW.

One of the best face climbs around. 4 rings, anchors and a #3 Camalot before the first bolt, up the glorious perma-chalked scooped red wall.

Start 5m right of WW. Flake to roof, over this to ledge, up then right of arete. Finish up TEMH.

Start as for SoF. Up flake trending right to 3rd bolt (optional #2 cam in a break down low), then break left and up the face through overlap and roof. 2 x carrot anchor on ledge at the top.

The arete right of CD. Many people traverse in from the left or right. 4 carrots plus medium-large gear.

Take large cams. Start 2m right of TEMH.

Take large cams. Start 3m R of PBF.

Up the L corner of Bernutts Block to top of block, then short crack to tree.

Left arete of Bernutts block.

Scramble to ledge 7m diagonally right of SM. Up outside of the block to top.

Left hand route on the R wall of Bernutts Block. Wall and right side of arete.

Start 2m R of TGEM.

Right again.

Bouldery start followed by a quick scramble to the corner crack. Up crack to top of block then crack to tree.

Start as for DD. Right a bit then up wall to hairline crack, up this to top.

The first route at The County (16/6/79). Very popular, and very classic. The obvious splitter hand crack. New lower-off from shackle on tree at top.

Take double sets of cams. Start as for IS31 then right and up wall.

"The first ascentionist deviated from the crack to the arete at one point on what is now considered to be the crux". Start 3m right of JC, below crack. Lower-offs at the top.

As for BE then through roof, up nose and right side of the arete to ledge and lower-offs. The FHs look really bad now.

Start 2m right of BE.

Start at the 'WE' initials 2m R of GRitS. Up wall past tree and large ledge, trend left to arete and up to lower-offs.

Start 5m R of WE. Corner to roof, wall via crack to ledge (big cam!), seam to top.

Start 4m R of HCMT. Thin corner, slight bulge then right up to left leading ramp, up this to finish as for HCMT.

Start 7m R of C. Scramble to ledge below corner, corner past big ledge, move left at top. Take Care!

"An eye catching line starting near the top of the cliff...strenuous and sustained but well protected."

Obvious right leading crack that starts from the ledge that runs left from the 2nd pitch of Touco (The Ugly). Best way to reach the route is to walk up Memory Lane to Smoothy's Shelf, right along the ledge to its end. Rope up!

Back to ground level. As for P, right to bolt, up and past breaks. Move left at top break and up to yellow ledge. Off left.

"A direct route up Ragtime Wall which is apparently a lot easier than it looks... An onsight lead would probably be a serious undertaking."

Start: The right side of the block 13m right of WE.

Start as for Reprieve.

1. As for R to obvious traverse line right to ledge. Now follow line of least resistance up the wall - Take Care! - to ledge.

2. Corner as for Touco.

Start: 6m right. Overhang on right side of cave. Up, left around roof then right of arete.

As for AE but step left, up orange wall to belay.

Start: As for AE.

Start up wide crack/chimney as for Blondie, then take "obvious traverse line" to arete and up arete.

Chimney, being careful of loose blocks, to bushes, then cracks to chains above tree. Second pitch available but looks like a scramble/bushbash.

Up and slight right ,crossing QD at about 3/4 height, to chain on left.

Start: 2m right again.

Not as easy as it appears.

Start: Wall 4m right of Blondie.

No doubt it has...

Start: 5m right of QD. Corner and filth to ledge

"Steep gully bashing"

Start: Gully/corner 10m right of QD.

Slab then right to bolt, up right (fixed hanger) then left to small ledge, right under roof, corner to ledge. 2). Walk right and traverse off.

Start: 1m right of JG.

Pockets to bolt, diagonally left, up to break, traverse right, mantle to slab and up.

Start: 7m right again.

Corner to roof,left under this and up yellow groove to end of corner, right to ledge. 2). Around left arete, up to ledge. 3). Right and finish as for CC.

Start: 4m right.

1. To ledge, left and up corner to ledge.

2. Corner to ledge, choss to bush (?)

3. Walk right and down to footledge and off.

Start: 4m right again.

Up wall and seam - check out the mower blade carefully - left at last bolt and belay on ledge. Finish as for CC.

Start: In small gully 4m right of CC.

Left facing corner and crack.

Start: 2m right again.

Start: At ground level 2m right of CC.

Chimney and crack to ledge then left crack.

Start: 3m right of LB.

"This desperate line is somewhat easier than it would first appear." This is the striking splitter crack in the upper part of this wall. Take doubles of #0.5-1 cams. Originally approached via Jitterbug, but its much better to start up TZ Direct and do it all as a single pitch. Walk 10m R to abseil off the Highlites anchor, or keep walking R to the descent gully.

Wall and crack to ledge then right crack.

Start: 2m right of TZ.

Arete to TZ anchor 1. Start: 9m right and up hill of H.

The best way to approach TZ and continue as one pitch. Start at the steep orange corner 2m right of CBX. Up to join TZ at ledge. Take double rack of small to medium cams (up to #3). Some loose blocks down low but easily avoided.

Natural anchor (small cams) at top. Walk right 10m to abseil off 'Highlites' anchor.

Start 4m R of TZ DS. No 10 meter stick required anymore. Rebolted 08/2015. Fantastic climbing. RBs and small/med cams with slings, to DRB belay at the back of the ledge. Abseil, or walk off R to gully beside Camerons Crest.

Excellent, and now with more bolts since the flake at the top broke. Start a few m R of H. Re-bolted 07/2015. Up past 2 BRs to FH, up past break to flake then BR, crux, and two more BRs to top. Stainless Glue ins. Bring 6 bolt plates, small wires and camalots #1 and smaller. Belay from DRB at back of ledge. Abseil, or walk off R to gully.

Left of paint. Corner to ledge, crack to tree and ledge, arete on the left. Start 2m R of LC.

Corner, crack to ledge and tree then corner. Start as for HF.