Routes as sport in Indian Head (north)

The magic in this one appears near the top as a perfect sinker pocket. Mostly a line of jugs

Start: Same place as the crack line.

Crack climbing from the 70s with bolts from the 21 st century the way they should all be done.

Start: Under the crack line

Line follows the underside of the ramp.

Start: Third line of bolts to the left.

A more reasonable move thru the blank break. Worth the grade if you are short. Also used as the start to the next route on the left.

Start: Fourth line of bolts from the left

A great chunk of rock flawed by the right and left wandering of the line. A good climb if you take a gym approach and do it just for the move sequences and rock rather than the line. Middle of the wall under the best looking rock. Use the start of Voila to get thru the blank break at the bottom. Ignore the first bolt to the left in the conglomerate band. Climb the first third of Voila to traverse back above the second bolt to the line. At the fifth bolt move to the left until you get almost into the next climb (keeps the grade reasonable), then up to the break where you go right to the 6th bolt then up to the shared anchors.

Firey break to break climbing with a little pop in the middle.

Start: Just right of 'Pourquoi Pas' off the low block just left of the first bolt.

Another short 70s crack with a taste for stainless steel.

Start: The right leaning crack on the left side of the wall. Start off the blocks.

The jagged crack in the steep wall left of PP. Start off the blocks. Climb the little wall then the crack to chain anchors.

Start up the arete on the right hand side of the wall. delicately dance your way up the thin face, then follow the crack to glory

Start on the right side of the wall below the diagonal crack of Not Sure. Up wall, slapping up those Arapiles like bums with little edges at the back. When the going really gets tough pike out towards the crack on the left then up NS and continue through roof and on to anchors.

The crack, what more of a description is there. Done years ago when chipping the name at the bottom was in fashion. At the right diagonal crack in the great looking orange wall. It was Trad back in 78 but is full of ring bolts. Yeah for stainless steel! Follow the crack through the roof to the top of the crag.

Climb the crack of Not Sure until you can branch off to the left and head up into the roof. Hard moves gaining the scoop under the roof then easier to the top.

Line of fixed hangers between 'Not Sure' & 'Tonnage Zone' cracks.

New bolts - 2016

Start: Just left of righward leaning crack.

At the crack splitting the left side of the orange wall. Shares the same start as Tonnage Zone.

A direct to the climb on the right which gives at least half the fun. Better grow long arms or get strong for this one as the moves in the first half are rather reachy. Shares the same start as Burlesque. Left three meters from the Tonnage Zone crack, on the left side of the orange wall. Starting at Burlesque off a rock so that you can reach the first holds. Alternatively boulder the start but it just makes it unreasonably hard. Climb past the first three anchors of Burlesque and head to the rather closely spaced pair of ring bolts above the break in the brown rock. From here follow the crack system and bolts, to the anchors.

Sequencey, bouldery, and at times dynamic climbing on great rock. A perfect next step up after doing Bullen's Route. Slightly height dependent through the cruxes, so more like 27 for shorter climbers.

Climb Bullens Route for 7 or 8 bolts and then join into the Burlesque project for its crux and final 2 bolts then its anchors. Adds a bouldery sting in the tail after the bulk of Bullens Route. You could possibly do a few moves right and into the 21 and avoid the boulder around the bulge below the roof, but then what fun would that be!

One of the best routes at Tianjara and a classic for the grade! Sustained climbing on bulletproof orange sandstone! Closest climb on the right of chimney, follow ring bolts which replace old hangers. Shared start then trend right at Y split.

This bum covered arete is a classic. Steadily overhanging throughout its entire length its lucky this one has no small holds on it. Over bolted to the max. Several sequences of grade 19 with a crux or two of 21 thrown in at opportune moments.

Start: At Bullens route. First bolt defies belief.

Start at the base of the chimney at the left end of the wall, 8m left of Tonage Zone. Climb the arete/ chimney to the anchors.

Short bulgy wall. Like really short! But really bulgy. Fortunately there is a jug at the top of each bulge!

Start: A meter or so left of the 4x2 crack up on the ledge.

Not much longer than the routes either side but a little better.

Start: Left of the crack in the middle of the wall.

Another bulgy wall with a little less bulge.

Start: Next line left.

Short and a little bulgy. You could send your grandma up this one.

Start: On separate wall to the left of the gully. Ten meters left of the bulgy wall trilogy.

Start on face of block in front of the wall with the Belgium names. Right hand of the two routes.

Start on the face of the block fronting the main wall left of OFJ.

A little longer than its bulging buddy to the right and better.

Start: Two meters left of the short Bulgy wall. On the right side of the overlap.

Longer but easy climbing. Start by bridging as necessary to avoid any forearm strain.

Start: Off ground level in slot three meters left of the short bulgy walls on the right.

Start from the large ledge up and right of the start of Damn You Custardo, best tp rap in from the top of DYC. Through the orange scoops on fixed hangers to top. Belay bolts are carrots - bring bolt hangers. Abseil off DYC.

Follow the line of rings to exit right or lower off.

Start: Right hand end of black wall

Start: On Ledge 2m left of DYC.

Middle of the wall 8m left of DYC.

Start up FI and traverse left to next line of fixed hangers to exit right onto ledge.

Start: As for 'First Impressions'

Long ramble, first crux at one third height then fun climbing to top crux in brilliant orange rock. Start at far left hand of ramp at the belay bolt.

The crack and blunt arete at left end of wall. Originally done as a mixed route, trad crack and bolted upper half, now completely re-bolted. Start: At the crack behind right edge of pillar. Bridge the gap then climb the crack and impressive arete above.

This route can be done in two pitches due to the possibility of a ledge fall on the upper section. Start 2m right of Cerin and the Suicidal Magpies off the block.

1. (22) Step off the block and climb on pockets and up onto the ledge, Belay.

2. (21) Bridge off the tree stump to the first bolt then climb the steep face to anchors.

Excellent varied climbing following a leftward trending line of fixed hangers and trad gear. Recently rebolted. At the base of an obvious vegetated corner as for APOYF. The bolts appear to be thin threaded expansion bolts. Up through the ever present conglomerate band to a traverse line left to bush on the nose then straight up open corner avoiding the roof and up to mantle on ledge, Belay.Roped scramble to top.

Looks good, climbs good! Start as for APOYF at FH at base of scrubby corner, and follow ring bolts. After the 4thRB take the left line of bolts,, to easier section and up into the beaut orange rock for stunning finish.

Start as for previous climbs, Clip FH then directly up following the line of RB's. Save some gas for the last move !

Approach via abseil. Line of rings up steep wall to top.

Start: Off a small ledge with double ring belay in the scrubby corner above the greenery. Rap in.

Start 4 meters right of the prominent scrubby corner. Bouldery and technical climbing to start up a vague flake and some trickery near the top to anchors. Has an easy second pitch at grade 10 to the top, will need some cams.

The sinuous seam at the right hand end of the ledge.Start 3m right of Ukulele and Prawns at double bolt belay the right belay plate is rusted and has about 2mm of thin metal around hole and looks like it could snap readily. Fabulous, technical and continous climbing with a little sting in its tail.

"The worst crime I ever did was play some rock and roll" The Stranglers. Takes the arete and face right of the chimney. Start as for Committed for Insanity. Engaging and sometimes committing climbing. Get your bridging strides on for this one.

Start at the right end of an alcove, left of the detached pillar. Chimney and bridge the wide crack to gain the shallow corner on left, up slab to anchors under roof.

Starts at the hand crack near the right end of the alcove. Climb the crack then left leaning corner to pillar, up this right of vegetated seam trending right to anchors near top.

Climbs the right arete of the impressive buttress. Starts at the little crack at the entrance to the alcove. Interesting and technical climbing up a nice line. Climb the crack, turn the roof and up the arete on good rock to anchors under the upper roof.

Sustained and varied climbing. Start as for Charm Offensive, at the 3rd bolt take the left rising traverse and on through the steep bulges to anchors.

Climbs the slab to a ledge, then the real climbing starts. technical moves lead to a powerful finish trending left.

Thin slab climbing on immaculate rock. Starts in the chasm 8m right of BBGS. Bridge the start and climb to the ledge. Beautiful slabbing follows a blunt arete to anchors under the roof.

Flake and slab line on immaculate rock.

This one has it all. Left of BWL and up a little gully, under a little roof at the base of an orange slab.

Grapple with the roof, follow the flake to the finishing slab.

Step left off the block, up and skirt left around overhang and follow rings between caves to top.

Start: Off the block 10m left of the gully left of BWL. This route has had lower offs added.

Start just right of Millie My Friend. Follow fixed hangers through to short steep wall near the top. Could be a little harder if your short. This route has had lower offs added.

The right hand of the two routes on the impressive orange wall. Climb Rise of the Feret until you can step out of the corner and onto the line of glue-in rings heading up the wall. Thin, sustained and cryptic. Recently rebolted by Glenn Jones.

Recently rebolted the left hand of the two bolted routes on this wall. Amazing climbing through perfect edges to get you nice and high. Super classic and well worth the walk.

The route perched right on the nose, a rap in affair to a belay.