Routes as trad in Sperone della magica

Very slabby. First pitch full of moss.

This route is mostly climbed in combination with La Sfera di Cristallo which is located in the upper part of this sector.

Beautiful route following the dominant arc in the cliff of this rock formation.

The route starts on a slab section at the edge of the wood almost directly below the beginning of the dominant arc.

1. 50m (5c) Climb the slab up towards some bushes/trees until you reach a small wall just below the beginning of the arc. There is one old bolt and one piton at the anchor (can be reinforced).

2. 30m (5b) Step over the small wall to the left and climb the beautiful arched crack until you arrive at the left corner (some pitons in the crack, many good cam and nut placements available). There is a piton and an old bolt at the anchor (easy to reinforce with gear).

3. 15m (6a) Go around the corner, follow the horizontal crack to a ledge. Climb up a couple of meters to the right from there. It may be better to create an anchor here if the traverse is challenging for the followers (communication, rope management/drag).

4. 35m (4c) Climb the slabby top section pretty much straight up to the top. There are some bad bolts and pitons.Better to use the trees as anchors.

Descend on foot (go to the left until you reach a hiking trail) or rappel off.