Showing all 18 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Main Cliff | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Dirty Little Secrets
Starts aprox. 15 meters left of the chimney. Start up easy slab to the first clip, then following up the right side of the bolt line, get right into sustained delicate face climbing for the next 3 bolts. Traverse slightly left into the dihedral and shake out on a no hands rest after clipping the fifth bolt. Climb up the dihedral on small sharp holds to gain the sixth bolt and then the anchor. | 15m, 6 | |||
5.11c | ★ Bad Belayviour
Direct line up the middle of the wall. Same start as Dirty Little Secrets, after the 4th bolt continue following the thin crack up through the steep face to gain the last bolt shared with Comfortably Numb. FFA: Damian Orlowski, 17 Sep 2020 | 15m, 6 | |||
5.10b R | ★★ Comfortably Numb
Starts 3 meters right of Dirty Little Secrets. Follow the bolt line up the dihedral until reaching the obvious semi-exposed arette. After clipping, climb out onto the arrete and then up towards the small cedar. At the Cedar, step out and up leftwards to the next clip - this is a runnout spicy move providing for the R rating. Climbing directly above the cedar is off-route and makes the moves even scarier. Finish with a traverse to the same anchors as Dirty Little Secrets. FFA: Tom Hentschel & Steve Mailloux, 22 Aug 2020 Set: Tom Hentschel, 22 Aug 2020 | 17m | |||
5.7 | ★ Raspberry Express
Third climb left of the chimney. Shares the first bolt of "Unknown Sport Climb", then heads up leftwards following a crack towards a cedar tree. Follow the bolt line to the anchors, or clip the last bolt and traverse to directly below the anchor then climb the face for a slightly harder finish (5.9). FA: Jaclyn Acre, Jun 2020 Set: Steve Maillux & James H, 21 Aug 2020 FFA: Steve Mailloux & Tom Hentshel, 21 Aug 2020 | 11m, 5 | |||
5.8 | ★ Whose Line Is It Anyway?
Second route to the left of the large gully that is the Dirty Hairy ice climb in winter, is a pleasant & well bolted prow. This climb roughly follows an old 5.6 trad line, and remains an excellent climb for beginner trad with the security of bolts if desired. | 11m, 6 | |||
5.9 | ★ Aria's Orange Slushy
First route left of the Chimney. Climb up the sloping corner onto the slabby face at 5.6ish climbing, and follow the orange "slushy" stain on the rock. FFA: Steve Mailloux & Tom Hentschel, 21 Aug 2020 Set: Steve Mailloux, 21 Aug 2020 | 12m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Dude, I Think She is the King
Start 10m right of Rob's Route. This previously mixed climb had bolts added in 2018, eliminating the need for gear but the 1st bolt is very high. For shorter people, the crux at the last bolt feels more like 10a/b. Belay from chains above the leaning cedar. P2 of "Balk and Chalk" (25 m, 5.8, 10 bolts) starts at this anchor and is a great way to finish. FA: Kieran Andrews, 2000 | 27m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★ The Agony of De-feet
Start 3m right of Unknown 1. Climb easy ground up to the first bolt, following the bolts through progressively harder slab climbing. At the top, easy but runnout climbing leads to a two bolt anchor. FA: Kieran Andrews & Joe Perras, 2000 | 26m, 7 | |||
5.12a R | ★ Chuckin Berries
Start up the cracked arete just right of Johnny Be Good to gain the runout bolts protecting the crux. Some psychological gear may be found to supplement the bolts to the anchors. Belay at a tree with slings on it. FA: 2000 | 20m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Migizi Wazoson
P1 The Rocks (5.9, 15m, 8 bolts): Dance up the technical cracks then up the left traverse to the arête beside the steep head wall. Stick-clipping the first bolt is recommended as the crux is low. Left of Swiftly Tilting Planet. P2 The Waters (5.9, 22m, 9 bolts): Crack your way up a deceivingly easy looking slab to a mid slab crux that takes a moment to figure out but feels good when you do. Follow the bolts to some fun moves into a traverse with lots of great holds all the way to the anchor for a relaxing finish. P3 The Forests (5.4, 10m, 4 bolts): Casual pitch that heads up a fun and easy little crack to Snake Ledge. Easy but mossy walk onto the ledge. P4 The Skies (5.6, 13m, 6 bolts): One of the best pitches on the route that follows more slab on great holds and great feet with an even more spectacular view. Wonderful way to finish it off. Finish the route off by rapping back down from the top of pitch 4 to the top of pitch 2. From here rap down through some trees that part to allow passage down to the top of pitch one. Rap to the ground from here. Option to also walk off the route. Follow pink marking tape to the left through an old trail and down a class 4 scramble with some fixed roped sections. FFA: Renee Rogge & Brandon Pullan FA: Renee Rogge & Brandon Pullan, Oct 2021 | 70m, 4, 27 | |||
5.10b | ★★ The Swiftly Tilting Planet
5m left of Perspective. Follow the bolted line up a steep thin slab to rappel anchors. FA: Kieran Andrews | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Father and Son
This was the first sport climb at Eagle's Nest and was hand drilled while the first ascensionist's father belayed patiently over 2 days (bolts took 30 min. each!) Start 3m right of Perspective at an aspen tree. Climb the bolted S-shaped line up the sustained wall to the Metolius rap hangers for the first pitch of Perspective. | 25m, 7 | |||
5.10a | ★ Killer Pillar
Start 3m right of Father and Son. Either climb the crack direct on gear or scramble up right to a ledge to reach the 1st bolt. Continue up the wide crack to the 4th bolt (can supplement with gear in the 2 - 4" range) where the route forks. Either traverse left from here (5.9) or climb up to a 5th bolt, then traverse left (5.10a) to rejoin Father and Son and the Metolius rap hangers of Perspective. | 23m, 6 | |||
Unknown 8
Located between Dragon and Stairway, mid way up the face starting from a large ledge is a steep bolted line with a fixed rope located near it. Project? | 9 | ||||
5.12+ | ★★★ Van Gogh's Ear
Climb an easy orange slab past 2 bolts, then launch up the overhanging roofs and finish on a thin face to a bolt anchor with quick links. Beware of the loose x'd out block right of the 6th bolt (it could not be pried out). Set: Matthew Sapiecha, 2014 FFA: Peter Hoang, May 2015 | 17m, 9 | |||
5.12c/d | Stemburg Lake
Directly to the right of Van Gough's Ear. Start in the stem and end over the roof. One of the anchor bolts is little wonky and will need replacing. Option to traverse right one metre to use other set of anchors. FFA: Dexter Bateman, 19 Sep 2020 Set: Dexter Bateman, 19 Sep 2020 | 19m, 8 | |||
The Optomologist
Open project. The route is to the right of Stemburg Lake. Set: Dexter Bateman, 19 Sep 2020 | 9 | ||||
5.13b | Sam's Route
Bolts out right of The Optomologist. | 10 |
Showing all 18 routes.