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Routes as trad in Cathedral Ledge

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 169 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Lower Left Wall
5.7 R Pleasant Street Trad
5.8 Bombardment

Climb the first pitch of Pleasant Street, and from the tree, get over the lip and onto the dike on the right. Follow the not so obvious first moves toward the very obvious left slanting crack.

The first pitch (5.6 R) is a good mental test for the leader on the unprotected but beatiful slab/dike.

The second pitch (5.8) is a must-do for any crack climber, and everyone else. The well protected crack offers perfect conditions to practice jams, calf endurance and pain tolerance (tapping might be a good idea, although not necessary). Be ready to experience the polished slab that offers slippery foot placements and weird-angled hand jams before going up and on the small slab/crimps crux at the end, before enjoying the bliss of a good belay and a wonderful view at the top, while you recover from the experience!

Trad 2
5.11b Western Lady Trad
5.10b Ventilator Trad
5.11d Repo Man Trad
5.11c Once Upon A Climb Trad
5.8 Three Birches Trad
5.7 Funhouse To Pooh Trad
5.8 Fun House Left

Use the obvious corner/crack just left of Fun House to reach a ledge, and then continu on the same line as for Fun House.

The route is all stemming and jamming. Steady and steep, it is very fun and well protected (bring #1 to 4 cams if you want to climb with a peaceful mind). The crux is the end, where you have to step up and left out of the corner and mantle your way to the ledge.

Trad
5.7 Fun House Trad 2
5.7 Pooh Trad
5.8 Lower Refuse Trad
Upper Left Wall
5.10d Dresden Trad
5.10a G Nutcracker

FA: Joe Cote, Dick Arey & Ward Freeman, 1969

FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson, 1972

Trad 23m
5.11d Jolt Trad
5.9 Double Vee Trad
5.9 Chicken Delight

FA: Joe Cote & Dick Arey, 1969

FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson, 1972

Trad
5.9 Layton's Ascent Trad
5.10b Nomad Crack Trad
5.11a Lichen Delight

FA: Dave Cilley & Sibylle Hechtel, 1971

FFA: Henry Barber, 1972

Trad 34m
5.10d Lichen Delight To Lichen It A Lot Trad
5.9 II Retaliation

FA: Joe Cote & Eric Radack, 1971

Trad
5.10d Youth Challenge Trad
5.11b The Arete Trad
5.5 Upper Refuse Trad
5.8 Black Lung Trad
5.7 Final Gesture Trad
5.10a The Book Of Solemnity Trad 190m, 2
5.10d Fools Gold Trad
5.12a Women In Love

FA: Joe Cote

FFA: Ed Webster & Henry Barber, 1978

Trad 61m, 3
5.9 Recompense Trad
5.9 III The Beast Flake

FA: Paul Ross & George Meyers, 1972

Trad 4
5.11d The Prow Trad
5.11c The Faux Pas Arete Trad
5.6 The Comeau Finish Trad
5.8 The Lookout Crack Trad
5.9 Little Feet

FA: Chris Noonan & Jimmy Dunn, 1977

Trad 11m
5.7 The Prow: The 5.7 Start Trad
Mordor Wall
5.12b/c R Armaggedon

FA: Doug Madera, 1975

FFA: Jimmy Surette, 1985

Trad
5.10d PG13 The Reckoning

FA: Grant Simmons, Jul 2020

Trad 2
5.11b Elevator Dance Trad 34m
5.10c Division of Labour Trad 53m, 3
5.14a Difficulties be Damned

Pro to 1".

FFA: Jay Conway, 2013

Mixed trad 24m, 5
5.14a Life the Universe and Everything

FA: Jay Conway, 14 Oct 2018

Trad 120m, 5
5.13a Highway 61 Trad 120m, 4
5.11d The Bridge of Khazad-Dûm Trad 120m, 6
5.13d Cecile Trad 52m, 2
5.11c/d PG13 Pendulum Route Trad 120m, 8
5.11b Lights in the Forest Trad 120m, 6
5.8 Slippery Corner Trad 18m
5.12a Free Finale - Mordor Roof Link-Up Trad 150m, 5
5.10 Moe Trad 14m
Thin Air Face
5.8 Still In Saigon to Miss Saigon Trad
5.10b Rapid Transit Trad
5.6 Thin Air
  1. From a small clearing with slopping blocky section which includes a small semi-detached pillar, aim for the fixed 3x bong anchor.

  2. Traverse right to the bolted belay/rap anchor, the bigger horizontal crack holds gear, but it's also the best thing to use as a ramp for your feet... can be very spooky/exposed/run-out.

  3. Head straight up the face, pulling the large flakes, up the corner with the tree, belay with natural pro on the ledge.

  4. Go straight up from the little cave and do a balancy move to the left flake, head up the easiest path, past a 2 tree doulble ledge and up a ramp to the left up to the base of aireation buttress.

For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse.

FA: John Turner & Craig Merrihue, 1956

Trad 91m, 4
5.8 Thinner Trad
5.10a Windfall Trad
5.8 Turner's Flake Trad
5.10c Pro Choice Trad
5.10a The Missing Link Trad
5.7 Toe Crack Trad 2
5.8 The Toe Crack Direct Start Trad
5.8 R Repulsion Trad
Airation Buttress
5.8 Pine Tree Eliminate Trad
5.12b Heather Trad
5.11a Airation Trad
5.12c Stage Fright Trad
5.11b Camber Trad
5.10b Reverse Camber

Second pitch of Camber

Trad
5.9 Tabu Trad
5.12c Tourist Treat

FA: Lynn Hill, 1985

Trad 50m
5.11+ PG13 Echoes Trad 30m
5.11 R Clean Sweep Trad 34m
5.12 R Autoclave Trad 30m
5.12b Endless Summer Trad 55m
5.12a PG13 Camber View Trad 30m
5.12 PG13 Creation Trad 69m, 2
5.11c Reach The Sky Trad 37m
5.11c PG13 Play Misty Trad 17m
5.11 R Kill Your Television Trad 15m
5.7 Practice Makes Perfect Trad 12m
5.10 Mystery Crack Trad 11m
5.7 The Practice Chimney Trad 8m
The Cathedral Cave
5.12b White Eye

FFA: Mark Hudon, 1978

Trad
5.10b Intimidation Trad 4
5.11b Abracadabra Trad
5.9 II Diedre Trad 340m
5.11d Budapest Trad
The Practice Slab
5.10a Be Sharp Or Be Flat Trad
5.10b The Slot Trad
5.9 Merrill's Variation Trad
5.9 They Died Laughing Trad 90m
5.10c Bailsafe Trad
5.10b The Slot 5.10b Trad 85m
5.9 Bird's Nest Trad 90m
5.11a Recluse Trad 90m
5.6 Child's Play Trad 70m
5.10b Generation X Trad
5.8 R Mantelshelf Problem Trad 6m
5.7 Kiddy Crack Trad 60m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 169 routes.

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