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Routes as trad in Squamish Buttress

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.10c The Squamish Buttress
1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.10c
7 5.6

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \

P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead.

FA: Fred Becky, Henryk Mather & Don Claunch, 1959

FFA: Peter Charak & Joe Turley, 1979

Trad 210m, 7
5.10c Good Samaritan
1 5.10a 27m
2 5.10c 34m

This route has it all, from hand jams to fist cams, slot climbing, and delicate slab. you can use this route to link into P3 of the Squamish Buttress/ Butt Light

P1: climb a hand crack through a small roof to a slot chimney past a large block.

P2: smear up a thin right-leaning seam (small gear and nuts) to the base of a large block. traverse rightwards around the block to a steep burly finish.

FA: Evan Beatty, 2023

Trad 61m, 2
5.10a Community Service

Direct start to the squamish buttress. Starts off of the trail, just before the original start. Bolted climbing leads to a gear protected flake. Can easily link into the second pitch of the buttress in one long pitch.

Trad 30m
5.12a Progress Can't Wait
Trad 45m
5.12a Heatwave
Trad 45m
5.12b Gemini
Trad 45m
5.10c Pan Tease
Trad
5.11c Pan Tease Upper
Trad
5.9 Butt Light
1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.8
7 5.7

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

FA: Sonnie Trotter, Lydia Zamorano & Ben Moon, 2010

Mixed trad 190m, 7, 4
5.14b/c Bladerunner

FA: Pat Delaney & John Furneaux, 2000

FFA: Ben Harnden, Oct 2022

Trad 3

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