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Routes as sport in Black Gold Buttress

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
24 Black Gold

Exposed and steep arete - all ringbolts. Best to use double ropes to stop rope cutting potential as some of the moves are on the opposite side of the arete to the bolts.

To get to the start belay, either climb first pitch of 'Attila', or fix a rope and just rap in from above (easiest) to tiny ledge belay (double rings) about 6m left of the arete. Traverse out right above void (3 rings) - then up the black arete.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987

Sport 30m
23 Bubbling Crude

Rap in, climb out long wall with a hanging belay. This is High 'n' Wild's 50m abseil! Fix a rap rope and abseil straight down the front face to belay on lip of roof and tiny ledge for your toes.

FA: M.Stacey & B.Maddison, 1997

Sport 40m, 15
24 Texas Tea

The right arete of the buttress. Start either for for Screen Gems (original start), or Long Distance Relationships (better).

  1. Up and traverse leftwards to belay on arete.

  2. Up technical arete to top.

FA: J.Smoothy & M.Stacey, 1986

Sport 55m

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