Routes as trad in Egyptian

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Showing all 21 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
VD Cleopatra

Start in the middle of left-hand buttress of crag at a crack surmounted by a double overhang and pointed boulder on skyline. Follow crack to overhang, pull up and move to final boulder which is taken direct.

Trad 16m
VD Nefertiti

A straight line between Cleopatra and Ammon, turning the overhang on the right and keeping out of the trees.

FA: R. A. Cooper, P. Le Pelley & C. Brown, 1960

Trad 20m
D Ammon

Start at the right-hand corner of buttress. Climb to ledge at 4.5m. Step across gully to corner on right and follow corner to top.

Trad 20m
S Rameses

Start just to the left of Osiris and aim for a small bush on the skyline directly above.

FA: M. C. Watts, 1973

Trad 20m
S Osiris

Start where there is a prominent small cave 2m above the ground. Climb into this, pull out of it and climb onto wall above some 1-1.5m left of fig tree root. Continue to top.

Trad 20m
D Isis

Start a few feet left of the cave in Osiris. Traverse right above cave to foot of fig tree root, cross this and climb to right of root and finish over boulders.

Trad 23m
VS Ashenhaten

To the right of Isis is a deep crack starting some 2.5m up. A hard start just to the left, then straight up.

FA: J. Temple & M. C. Watts, 1973

Trad 22m
E5 6a Take is not a safe word

A line consisting of beautiful moves until the usual Egyptian easy finish. Start up the first bolt of DIY/Ulf Carlsson Memorial Climb, and instead of going right, go straight up, to the small pockets above, up towards the larger/pocket/jug before moving to the crack on the left and exiting the hard climbing.

Gear is thin and thoughtful, first ascent was headpointed.

FA: Mark Haworth

Mixed trad 20m, 1
E2 5c DIY

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Ian Howell, 1997

Mixed trad 20m, 3
VD Pharaoh's Wall

In the middle of the face is a grassy platform at 4.5m. Start in corner to left below this and climb to platform, then to detached pinnacle on left. Step across gully and move left onto wall. Climb left-handed to end of curving overhang. Pull up to finish on ledge.

Trad 22m
S Papyrus

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. From left-hand side of platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

From the lefthand side of the platform ascend crack direct. Pull up past overhang and easy rock to finish.

FA: A. Owen & F. Richardson, 1961

Trad 22m
VD Anthony

Start as for Pharaoh's Wall. Climb to platform and then the difficult-looking wall behind to ledge for belay. Move right along ledge and climb short, strenuous crack on corner. Over boulder to finish on summit.

Trad 25m
D Vulture's Nest

Start below right hand end of platform, where a fig tree affords an easy route to the platform. Ascend corner on left of gully to ledge and belay. Move left along ledge to small tree beside which an easy route will be found leading to the top. An alternative route to the platform can be made (9m, VS). Start directly below the second pitch on a wall with small holds. Ascend 3m, traverse 3m left, continue left-handed to good holds on the corner. (A. Owen; 1961)

Trad 25m
D Ptolemy

Start as for Vulture's Nest to platform. Climb onto corner on right. Awkward step on point of corner leads to easy rock and direct to top.

Trad 26m
S Scarab

Lies between Ptolemy and Sweet Fanny Adams on the buttress just to the left of the chimney. Climb to the pigeon-hole where an awkward move leads to a ledge at 7.5m. From ledge climb directly up or cross chimney to block on right and then up.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1961

Trad 23m
HVS 5a Death of Disco

Between Sweet Fanny Adams and Scarab is a wall topped by a hanging block. There is a recess at the base of this wall which is climbed to a pigeon-hole. Step left at 3m and climb until level with a bolt on the right. Traverse right past this, to the bottom of the hanging block and easier ground. Straight up the wall above on jugs.

FA: Clive Ward & Philip Winter, 1989

Trad 25m
E1 5b Chips Funga

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail which can take questionable gear. Powerful moves left across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

FA: Joel M, Ian Thorpe, Joel Moktar & Ian Thorpe

Trad 25m
VS Sweet Fanny Adams

Start on the corner to left of fig tree. Hard start leading to small block at 3m; from here direct to belay. Move left-handed across face on exposed rock with good holds to summit.

FA: W. M. Adams, 1958

Trad 22m
VS Sphynx

The climb goes up the chimney immediately to the right of Sweet Fanny Adams. Back up the chimney facing right for 9m when a runner may be placed in the crack. Continue direct up the crack until the ledge can be reached. Traverse right 4.5m and ascend wall above on small holds.

FA: G. B. Cliff & R. Smith, 1960

Trad 20m
S Dog's Dinner

Start 7.5m to the right of Sphynx on the corner. Up fault as far as possible then traverse right to corner. Climb direct to hole. From here onto ledge immediately above and take final pitch above. Follow fault for 4.5m then traverse and up corner to top.

FA: R. Smith, 1961

Trad 20m
E2 5b Los Penitentes

On the red face facing south picnic tree. One bolt at start, then traverse diagonally to the right, move up to holes. Then traverse left on horizontal crack until it thins down, with another bolt above the crack. Finish at bolted anchors.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Nicolas Ganzin, 1996

Mixed trad 2

Showing all 21 routes.

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