Routes as sport in Nemesis

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity

Route on the far left end of Nemesis. Last person to climb it reported back loose rock, sparse and poorly placed bolts, and very hard climbing, so this is a bit of a collector's item for the time being!

{FR} 7c+ Banana Cheeks

Currently the hardest route in Lukenya and one of the highest quality routes I have ever bolted.

Start on the far left end of the cliff under the obvious right-rising traverse. Work through the traverse culminating on a hard move to a good rest jug. Chalk up and prepare for the V7 crux through steep terrain to perfect jugs above.

FA: Kristofer Fiore, 16 Jan

Sport 18m, 6
{AU} 25 E.T.

On the leftside of the cliff on the brown/orange wall. Up the prow, moving right to the finish.

FA: E. Baron, 1999

Sport 22m, 5
{AU} 23 Twisted Sisters

Named after two women who keep the route opener on his toes. To the left of a small tree is a thin crack that trends leftwards. A steep route that has a sting in its tail.

FA: A. Fiksman, 2000

Sport 25m, 6
{FR} 7a+ Jason's route

Beautiful route between Nemesis and Twisted Sisters, with interesting but pumpy moves and few decent rests. No anchor so either top out after the 6th bolt and lower off the Nemesis anchor or walk off. In memory of Jason Spindler!

Sport 18m
{AU} 21 Nemesis

Between Twisted Sisters and KL. An excellent, steep, juggy climb. Pumpy, but not as hard as it looks. A lovely route.

FA: S. Marlow & W. Dove, 1999

Sport 22m, 5
{AU} 26 Happy Birthday Piers Wood

On the right face, to the left of the obvious scoop used in Turbulence and As Good As It Gets, is a thin crack that slants up to the left. Very technical moves past the third bolt.

FA: M. Heileman, 2002

Sport 22m, 5
{AU} 22 Turbulence

Start 6m right of KL Corner, move up into a scoop and then after passing the second bolt, move straight up and then left below an overhang, which is pushed through before reaching Happy Birthday Piers Wood. Keep going past the third bolt, even if you're pumped.

FA: Iain Allan, 2000

Sport 25m, 6
{AU} 19 As Good as it Gets

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sport 25m, 6
{FR} 6b ?

Immediately to the left of Leap of Faith. Very crimpy start to the first bolt, easier ground after that.

Sport 12m
{AU} 18 Leap of Faith

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sport 22m, 6
{AU} 19 Peaches and Cream

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith, it has a tricky start and then stylish moved up to a nice horizontal rail.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sport 22m, 6
{AU} 17 Smooth

Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sport 20m, 4
{AU} 16 Bliss of Nemesis

The easiest route on Nemesis, located round the corner at the right-hand side of the crag. Slightly slabby start up to good jugs to the top. Try not to pull too hard on the flakes!

The last bolted climb to the right of the crag, round the corner. Climb the first few meters of the slab, then step left and straight up the route with the crux of the moves coming after 10m of climbing. Multiple options for holds enable climbers to finish it in various different ways. Be gentle with the flakes.

Set by Henrik

FA: Henrik, 2017

Sport 15m, 5

Showing all 14 routes.