Routes as alpine in Massif du Mont Blanc

The route takes the ridge that leads up to the foot of the NNE ridge of the L'M

A fairly steep climb with some short hard passages. 6a+/A0 or 6c free. Limited fixed pro, belays may need back-up

Free up to 7c climbing, otherwise 6b/A1. Remote setting and one of the steepest faces in Chamonix area.

Starts up the Rebuffat/Terray for 150m then continues direct where the Rebuffat/Terray steps slightly right. Jon Bracey told UKC: "After ~200m of beautiful ice climbing, Beyond Reason then breaches the steep and intimidating rocky headwall by a series of hidden ice runnel, cracks, and exposed mixed climbing."

Source UKC

Nice ridge climb. Climbing is not sustained, and belays are comfortable.

A long scramble approach that requires route-finding skills to get to the summit pyramid. The summit pyramid contains 9 pitches of climbing with traversers. Alpine classic.

Route climbs North butress and arrive at 3rd tower of the Pappions ridge.

A classic varied climb with cracks, corners and chimneys on sound solid rock.

starts with a gully, M5 dry step, snow field, thin ice, last AI4+ step.

Must do direct line, alternating crack (no fixed gear) and slabs (bolted). The 7a section is a short 10 m with 3 bolts, the rest is sustained with everything between 6b and 6c

Belays in place and some bolts

Long snow / ice climb under hanging glacier (Serac). Preferably climbed in winter. Ice up to 70 degrees.

Classic long mixed climb under and to the left of cable car to Aiguille du Midi. Short passage of grade 5 climbing and 70 degrees ice

Excellent introduction to alpine north faces, easy approach and safe descent using the lift. The climb is hard to protect as it is mainly a snow climb. The crux pitch is easily protected if you desire to pitch it.

Up through the glorious roof crack on the left of the face then on to the top.

Approach on glacier

Too popular.

The normal way up Mt Blanc and used in descent for most cases. Normal starting point is Les Houches where you take the cable car and then train to Nid d'Aigle 2372m. There is a couloir below refuge Gouter that is exposed to stonefall, caution. From refuge Gouter 3817m follow rigde to Dome du Goûter then ridge to summit.

A long and classic way to ascend Mt Blanc. Route is technically easy but a long glacial outing exposed to Serac fall which makes chosing good conditions and timing important. From Col du Midi some 600m up to Mt Blanc du Tacul. Then descending to Col Maudit 4029 and from here som 300m to pass around Mont Maudit and then finally 500m from here to summit.

A grand route on high altitude mainly on Snow up to 45 degrees. Starting point Ghiglione hut 3690m.

This ascent starts in the bionnassay parking lot and follows the ascent up to Nid d’aigle. Follow the trail above the Bionnassay glacier up to the Tete Rousse refuge. Put on crampons to cross the Grand Couloir while maintaining vigilance for rock fall, which is frequent. Remove crampons and ascend the Aguille Gouter to the Gouter Refuge. Ascend To Dome d’ Gouter toward the summit ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit. Average time for this route is 2-3 days with rest at one or more of the refuges. Best to rest at the Gouter Refuge after summit day before descending 2600 meters to the Bionnassay parking area, though some try to do it all in a single push. These days most people take the lift up but starting in Bionnassay is the original way summitted in 1786. This route is historically regarded as the beginning of mountaineering.

The route of the first ascensionists. A long glacier climb starting at Plan du Midi

Narrow ice/mixed goulotte going up to Col du Maudit. Up to 85 degrees ice

Follows left edge of Triangle Rocheuax du Tacul. Approach on glacier.

Start up a ice runnel far L on face to reach a R slanting gully. Follow this for 2 piches up to a faint butress in the face. CLimb straigh up to snowband and traverse L to find a weak line through the top rocks before reaching the L flank of the Triangle about half way up.

Nice mixed climb as introduction to alpine mixed climbing. Follows the left side of the N-triangle Rocheux

Ice couloir, narrow and up to 80 degrees. Very popular all year round. Belays for rappel down route if you turn around at top of couloir.

Best accessed from Aiguille du Midi ca. 1h over glacier. Need to have skills for glacier travel.

1. Descend the Aiguille du Midi slope and a ~30 minute approach will bring you to the base of the traverse.

2. Climb the 40 degree snow slope between the southeast and middle summits.

3. Easy scrambling with some exposure will bring you to the central summit. Downclimb on the south side for about 3m to reach a bolted abseil on an exposed ledge.

4. A 30m abseil (bring a long enough rope!) down the north face will land you on an exposed and stunning snow ridge linking the central and main summits. Follow this to the foot of the rock buttress and the crux pitch.

5. 4a. The crux is easier than it looks but there may be some loose rock and requires care. Take a small rack to climb this section. Can be done in 1-2 pitches.

6. At the top, follow the snow slope easily to reach the main summit.

7. Descent: Easy descend down the snow ridge before turning eastwards and walking down to rejoin the approach path back to the Midi.

Couloir climbing with up to vertical ice. Otherwise 75-85. Belays for rappel.

Ice couloir up to 85 degrees. Fixed belays and rappels.

50-60 snow & ice climb.

Steep 90 degrees and long couloir. Direct start is a classic test piece of thin ice on steep rock.

Ice climbing couloir with some mixed pitches ( depending on conditions). Fixes bolted belays for rappeling down the route. 300m of difficulties.

An excellent route with varied climbing. Rock is mostly excellent, however pitch 3 and 4 have some loose rock. The last pitch is the crux and ended on a small summit. The belays are bolted and there are numerous pitons through out the climb. A standard rack will get you up.

TD 6b+>6a A1

L1 6a

L2 5c

L3 5b

L4 4c 100 m of easy terrain

L5 6a Delicate traverse

L6 6b+>6a/A1

L7 5b

L8 3

L9 5c

Combination of the Old Bonnati route first 4 pitches and the last 2 pitches of Tabou makes for a good 5c to 6b+ climb. This avoids the harder pitches of the other routes.

Normal route on Mt Blanc du Tacul. The NW-face may some years have hanging glaciers that are difficult to cross. Also the first part of the "3 montes route" to ascend Mt Blanc.

All the belays are equipped with two bolts. If you climb to top of first tower it is possible to abseil down the route. If you continue the easy pitches to summit you need to abseil / down climb south face (bring approach kit).

Can be used as an access route to O Sole mio, Voie des Suisses, De fil en aiguille, Le sourire de l’été and Voyage selon Gulliver.