Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Old Baldy Fallout Wall | |||||
5.10d | ★★★ This Little Piggy
FA: Peter Croft, Peter Reilly & Ziggy Isaac | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Resplendence
Starts 4m left of 'Fallout'. FA: Peter Zabrok & John Kaandorp | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ Tickling Light Sockets
FA: Peter Croft | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Socket World
FA: Peter Reilly, Ziggy Isaac & Peter Croft | 2 | |||
5.11b | ★ Martin's Chimney
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Old Baldy The Alley | |||||
5.8 | Troglodyte’s Delight
| 18m | |||
Old Baldy Central Pinnacle Area | |||||
5.10 | Pig Labour
FFA: John Kaandorp & Steve De Maio FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok | ||||
5.8 | Now I is an Engineer
FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok | ||||
5.11c | ★★★ No Refunds No Crybabies
FA: Peter Croft & David Smart | ||||
5.12b | ★★★ Elixir
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5.10c | ★ For Whom the Wedding Bells Toll
FFA: David Smart FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok | ||||
5.11b | ★ Romeo's Revenge
FA: David Smart | ||||
Old Baldy Northern Pinnacle Area | |||||
5.6 | ★ Troglodyte's Delight
FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok | ||||
5.10a | ★ Sugar and Spice
FA: Bob Bennell & Cinta Bennell | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Sweet Jane
FA: Bill Goldie & Michael Jensen | ||||
5.1 | Pinnacle North
FA: John Kaandorp & Steve De Maio | ||||
5.11a | ★ Wild Thing
FA: Reg Smart | ||||
5.9 | ★ Scripture Passage
FA: John Kaandorp & Steve De Maio | ||||
5.9 | Scrotum Scrabble
FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok | 2 | |||
5.9 | Scary Bollocks
FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok | ||||
5.7 | Son of Moe
FA: Ray Rutitis & Bill Goldie | ||||
Old Baldy The Black Forest | |||||
5.11a R - X | The Anniversary
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5.10d | ★★ Black Magic Woman
FA: Bob Bennell & Cinta Bennell | ||||
5.11b | Welcome to my Nightmare
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5.7 | "Unknown"
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5.4 | Larry
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5.9 | ★ Curly
FA: Ray Rutitis & Bill goldie | ||||
5.9 | Carnival in Hell
FA: Bob Bennell & Cinta Bennell | ||||
5.11b | Hot Touch
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5.11a | The Hiss
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5.10d | ★★ Lady Finger
FA: Bob Bennell & Cinta Bennell | ||||
5.10b | The Wishbone
Left (5.9) Right crack (5.10b) | ||||
5.10b | The Stung
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5.10b | A Tight Squeeze
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5.10b | Stump The Chump
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5.9 | ★★ The Ugly
FA: Bob Bennell & Cinta Bennell | ||||
5.8 | ★★ The Bad
FA: Bob Bennell & Cinta Bennell | ||||
5.4 | ★★ The Good
FA: Bob Bennell & Cinta Bennell | ||||
5.9 | The Snake
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5.11d | The Oatesman's Contract
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5.10a | Slim Jim
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5.11 | ★★ The Draughtsman's Contract
FA: David Smart & Michelle Smart | ||||
5.7 | Ruth's Knit
FA: John Kaandorp & Steve De Maio | ||||
5.9 | ★ Express Crusader
FA: John Kaandorp & Steve De Maio | ||||
5.9 | Kriter Lady
FA: John Kaandorp & Steve De Maio | ||||
5.9 | Devil's Tail
FA: Steve De Maio & John Kaandorp | ||||
Metcalfe Rock South Wall | |||||
5.11d | To Wish Impossible Things
FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, Shawn Pinowski & Charlie Edison | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Dynamic Duo
Classic overhanging hand/fist crack FA: Helmut Microys & Jim Ferguson, 1960 FFA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok, 1982 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Motel Z
Starts as Mother of Jam, only steps right onto the face and arête. Easy to top out. FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok, 1985 | 20m | |||
5.5 | ★★ Son of Jam
FA: Helmut Microys | ||||
5.11a | More Than Meets the Eye
FA: Pete Reilly, 1986 | ||||
5.12a | ★ Kodachrome
FA: Helmut Microys & Werner Heiss, 1960 FFA: Pete Reilly, 1986 | ||||
5.8 | Eagle Has Landed
FA: Pete Zabrok & John Kaandorp, 1982 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Mother of Jam
This route has three different starts. 5.6 if you climb left up and to the ledge, 5.7 if you go strait up and 5.9 if you climb right (funky moves off the start), all climbs go to the chimney and end at the anchors at the top. | 15m | |||
5.9 | ★★ Superman
Starts at a small crack, moves left on thin ledges to a great layback to the top. Quite polished and slick from lots of traffic. FA: Pete Zabrok & John Kaandorp, 1982 | 15m | |||
5.8 | Delicious Demon
The arête that is the right side of Jam chimney FA: Karl Krause & Grace Wong, 1988 | 12m | |||
5.9 | ★ The Big M
Obvious zig zag crack between Jam and Peanut Butter. Starting down left, jam up through the zig zag, moving right and up to the top. FA: Tony Maloney & John Kaandorp, 1982 | ||||
5.5 | ★ Peanut Butter
A very popular leaning crack, to anchors at the top. | 10m | |||
5.7 | ★ Pockets
Just right of Peanut Butter, climb the crack past the chock stone to the pocketed wall. Anchors at the top. | 8m | |||
5.11c | Robot Monsters
FA: David Smart, 1984 | ||||
5.11c | Straight to the Sky
FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, Shawn Pinowski & Charlie Edison | ||||
Metcalfe Rock Big Gully | |||||
5.6 | Bigger Than It Looks (That's What She Said)
FA: Justin Dwyer & Malen Vidler, 2011 | ||||
5.10b R | City of the Red Night
FA: David Smart, 1984 | ||||
5.10c | Death Direct
FA: Bertrand K Bundren, 1992 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Death On The Installment Plan
Starts to the climbers left of the chockstones in HOOC. Has a chossy and slick start. Follows a crack up to and then past the roof. FA: David Smart, 1984 | 18m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Dammit Jim I'm a Rock Climber Not a Tree Surgeon
FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz & Graeme Taylor, 2014 | ||||
5.4 | HOOC (Horrendous Overhanging Offwidth Chimney)
A large chimney in the middle of the wall. Route starts to the climbers right of the chockstones towards the top of the route, goes up the chimney and traverse to the climbers left to the chockstones. FA: Helmut Microys & Eric Marshall, 1960 | 18m | |||
5.8 | ★★★ 700 Rings to Rule Them All
Start right of HOOC on a bolt below a roof. FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz & Graeme Taylor, 2014 | ||||
5.10a | ★ The East Shall Rise Again
Finger crack right of HOOC. FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz & David Brown, 2009 | ||||
Metcalfe Rock Boiler Plate Wall | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ When I put my helmet on I become like superman
Climb the face, placing a couple pieces to reach the bolted business up the face. FA: Reg Smart & Geoff Creighton, 1986 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ It's Not Every Day (You Get To Put Up a Great 5.9)
FA: John Kaandorp & Pete Zabrok, 1982 | ||||
5.11b | ★ Forearms on Stun
Place a few pieces to reach the bolted face. FA: Reg Smart & Marc Bracken, 1986 | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Campus Slut
Located on the far right side of the wall, climb the crack/corner system up to the ledge where there is a small tree. A few feet up from that there is a small overhang, climb out and to the left and follow the crack to the top. (5.6 alternate route is climb right of the overhang and follow the obvious line to the top). FA: Marc Bracken & Reg Smart, 1986 | 15m | |||
Metcalfe Rock Malen's Wall | |||||
5.10d | Reg and Martin's Excellent 80's Adventure
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5.8 | Gangrene
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5.7 | Bovine Inspiration
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5.7 | Wide Lover Not A Fighter
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5.10b R | Hanging Groove
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5.8 | Monday Blues, Forgotten Shoes
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5.4 | ★ Chimney
Located left of just a 5.6, hidden behind some cedar trees. | 10m | |||
5.6 | ★★ Burrglass
The obvious crack system ~5m climbers left of 'Arete, Eh?' and a few meters right of the ground-level anchors. Known to be hard for the grade. Top anchors with chains were installed circa 2010. | 9m | |||
Metcalfe Rock Agitez Bien Area | |||||
5.5 R | Deep Cheeze
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5.10a | ★★ Agitez Bien
Pitch 1 -5.8 Pitch 2-10a | 17m, 2 | |||
5.10b R | Induced Vomiting
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5.11b | The Asshole That Killed Liberace
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Metcalfe Rock The Anvil | |||||
5.10a | ★ Doris
Same trad start shared with Old Sir. Once on the ramp after the short finger crack, clip the bolt under the roof and begin your push upward. Fun traverse along the roof before pulling over the mantle at the crux bolt. Note: Anchors my have been removed, possible to use Old Sir's slightly to the right. Slightly runout on the easy climbing above the last bolt, but possible to place some gear if needed. | 4 | |||
5.9 | Bridal Shower
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5.5 | Raclette
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5.6 | Chiller
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5.9 R | Escalating Tension
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5.11d R | Looking Pretty Swell
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Metcalfe Rock Metcalfe North | |||||
5.7 | Denouement
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5.7 R | When Doves Make Justin Cry
Second pitch of With Boots | ||||
5.5 | ★★ With Boots
Climb a steep gully/groove just right of Peak Season in Harlem to a ledge at the base of a cave. Belay here and climb out the right side of the cave and continue up the groove to the top. This route is worthy, if only to see the cave system. (Copied from Rakkup guide) FA: Blake Gooding & Justin Dwyer, 2012 | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ El Camino Real
Climb the obvious big crack. Big holds, nice layback. Continue over the bulge to anchor chains. | 35m | |||
5.8 | ★ Sir Od
Start in the wide overhanging crack to the right of El Camino Real. Once established on a large ledge follow the short finger crack up before traversing right along a nice ramp. Head straight up before running into the bolted line of Good Feathas. | ||||
The Swamp The Last Stand Wall | |||||
5.7 | Crib Midget
Fist crack that leads into fingers just before the crux. First route/crack you arrive at when walking in to the swamp. FA: Gus Alexandropoulos & Chrstine Triggs | ||||
5.10a | Man of Stihl
FA: Gus Alexandropoulos | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Layback and Jam it In
Handcrack located 8-10 feet further into the gully that "Does Your Boyfriend Drive Too" is located on. Route trends upwards to the right and has a short traverse to the right to share quicklink anchors with the previously mentioned sport route. Easy cam placements throughout. FA: Nathan Kutcher & Rebecca Lewis | 11m | |||
The Swamp The Islands Gully | |||||
5.10c | Green With Envy
FA: Nathan Kutcher & Rebecca Lewis | 14m |