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Routes as sport in Maratoto

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Showing all 55 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Twister Buttress
18 Unknown 2

unknown route origin, stainless bolts and hangers lead to chain anchor. rock quality is some of the worst you could climb on.

Sport 25m, 9
16 unknown

unknown origin, start on the face then veer right around the arete. stainless hangers and bolts lead to a chain anchor. some of the worst quality rock you could climb on.

Sport 25m, 9
20 Twister

Climb the groove to below the overhang. Move slightly left to surmount the crux overhang to bigger and bigger holds. Slabby finish with an exciting ending. Rock quality is not good as the rest of the crag but still a fun climb

Sport 25m, 11
18 Wet panties

The second pitch at the hanging belay in the middle of this wall. Climb to the right underneath the overhang to the crux above the second bolt and then cruise cruise to the top of the honeycomb head wall. Descent is best in two abseils

Sport 12m, 5
20 Scorpion's Tail

Climb the groove and keep on going through the widening crack and chimney to reach the steep headwall and chain. Long and airy with a good balance of moves. DBC Belay

Sport 40m, 18
17 400ft Bastard

Around the Left from the Bivvy cave, follow the thin path alongside the rock that will take you up to the belay ledge. Slightly awkward offwidth start leads to fantastic climbing. Looking through the offwidth you can see the bivvy cave and stipaccio.

FA: Dean Maxwell

Sport 22m, 8
19 Behind Blue Lines

The overhanging face leads to easier climbing after the bottom boulder. Anchors still need glued in, stay off till then.

Set: Chris Hailey, 5 Nov 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 13 Nov 2022

SportProject 20m, 5
29 Blue

A route with some contentious creation questions. Is considerably harder now that one of the key crimps by the start has broken and the bolted on starting foothold has been removed.

FA: John Van Der Werf

Sport 25m, 7
16 Stipacio's

Just right of "Blue" inside the cave. Start up between the columns and then move onto the face for some nice juggy climbing.

FA: Chris Hailey, 5 Oct 2019

Sport 17m, 6
No Fly Zone
17/18 Baby Yoda

Climb to the left of falcor up the slab and into the tallest part of the cave. still needs more cleaning and more bolts

Set: Chris Hailey, 1 Sep 2022

SportProject 30m, 4
29/30 Open Project

An outrageous line that traverses from inside the cave through steep climbing and out at the far right lip of the overhang. Does anyone know who the original equipper was? Holds through the final section look manufactured. This one was re-bolted in 2020 but hasn't seen an FA yet as far as anyone knows

Set: unknown

Sport 10m, 5
25 Falkor

Start at the base of the slab left of the runnel, mantel onto the slab then attack the overhang. Good holds lead to a powerful finish.

Set: Chris Hailey, 18 Aug 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 28 Aug 2022

Sport 20m, 10
Sawanobori

The runnel next to falcor... Probably only dry for 3 months during the Summer but will be a classic!!!!

Set: Chris Hailey, 29 Oct 2022

SportProject 30m, 9
22 Atreyu

Start to the right of the runnel, a few tricky slab moves lead to a rooflet, pull through the roof then the climbing eases off the closer you get to the anchors.

FA: Chris Hailey, 1 Sep 2022

Sport 25m, 10
26 Mr Crimps

Start in the middle of the column, climb to the roof on easy moves then punch through on small edges. Route stays slightly overhanging all the way to the top on good holds then goes over another bulge to meet the anchors.

FA: Chris Hailey, 18 Sep 2022

Sport 28m, 10
26 Pneumothorax

Start at the right hand end of the column. Climb the first roof on good holds then punch through the overhanging bulge on small holds before getting a ledge. Climb the corner on slopey holds before veering left at the top for the anchors.

FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Sep 2022

Sport 30m, 11
26/27 Save The Human Babies

Start up the ramp (clip the first bolt of "Pneumothorax" then climb through the over hanging face, easy climbing before and after the crux. Shares anchors with "The Odyssey"

FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Oct 2022

Sport 25m, 9
24/25 The Odyssey

Left of No Fly Zone. Climb the face then into the corner via the flakes or transfer over to the adjacent boulder at the jug. Stem your way to the roof then power through and enjoy the top, this climb has everything!!!

FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Sep 2022

Sport 28m, 11
19 No Fly Zone

Excellent climbing up the face following the positive edges heading diagonally right to an entertaining 19 Crimpy climb as it goes straight up again. From the anchors you can join the grade 16 for 10m of fun climbing (4 bolts) for a full height adventure. Note; if heading to the top the abseil is 38m to the ground, or rap to the top of no fly zone for a 25m rap.

Sport 25m, 8
24 Weetabix Nubula

Start up Coller De Hors then at the 3rd bolt head left through the overhang then head directly up past 4 more bolts to join the top of no fly zone.

FA: Chris Hailey, 6 Feb 2020

Sport 25m, 12
23 Coller de Zone

A linkup taking in the crux of Coller De Hors before traversing to clip the last bolt and anchors of No Fly Zone. Great option if you only have a 60m rope.

Sport 28m, 10
23 Coller De Hors

Brilliant fun climbing, mainly a reasonable 19 until the overhang then a few bigger pulls through some jugs to some smaller holds with some great moves. An easy tick for the grade, or super hard if you get the moves wrong. The abseil is 38m, a 70m rope might get you down on stretch, or abseil left to the anchors on No Fly Zone

FA: John an der Werff

Sport 38m, 13
23 Feariswheel

Start to the right of Coller de Hors. This climb is sustained but well protected. The crux involves pulling over the overhang and getting established on the steep wall above. Steep climb on good rock.

FA: John an der Werff

Sport 25m, 12
23 Another One Rides The Bus

Starts right of Feariswheel, Climbs the arete and attacks the slight over hang, consistent climbing. Climb to the ledge below "Edging and Dilios" the anchors are on the face.

Set: Chris Hailey, 1 Nov 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 13 Nov 2022

Sport 30m, 12
21 Kaizo Korner

Cleaned and bolted, climb the face as per "another one rides the bus" then step into the corner, 5 more bolts then mantel out to the left and clip the chains above.

Set: Chris Hailey, 23 Oct 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Dec 2022

Sport 30m, 11
22/23 Edging

Climb the left line of bolts from the ledge on in-cut crimps and edges

Set: Chris Hailey, 29 Oct 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Dec 2022

Sport 15m, 5
20/21 Dilios

From the ledge climb the right line of bolts on crimps, edges and a few jugs... Enjoy the view!!!!

Set: Chris Hailey, 29 Oct 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Dec 2022

Sport 15m, 5
22 Climb this you Bastard

An intimidating line that gets harder the higher you climb, with its crux headwall and bold finish. A bit of everything in terms of climbing, slabs, cracks, faces and a overhang. Rock a bit soft at the start.

FA: John an der Werff

Sport 30m, 12
26 Climb This You Peach

Climb the arete to the right of "Climb This You Bastard" some pretty funky moves with 2 distinct cruxes. Still needs anchors.

Set: Chris Hailey, 15 Oct 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 22 Oct 2022

Sport 30m, 12
24 Le Stix

The pronounced streak on the last buttress of this sector. This climb has two cruxes, one high and one low. The higher you get the steeper it is and the rests quickly disappear. The second bolt is tricky to clip due to the nature of the rock but good side pulls are there if you can find them

FA: John an der Werff

Sport 35m, 14
The Lost Sector
19 - 21 Axis

Start from the ledge and traverse right up to a ledge. old bolts have been removed/knocked in. Re bolted but some of the holds at the start look suspiciously formed 🤔

Set: Chris Hailey, 10 Oct 2022

Sport 20m, 8
Direct Axis

Down to the right of "Axis" is a direct version, still needs a start bolt and an ascent but looks like it will be far better climbing than the traverse.

Set: Chris Hailey, 10 Sep 2022

SportProject 20m, 8
18 Old School Epics

Climb the right hand face from the ledge. Some suspect holds up there if you spot them, this is the original line, re bolted and some fantastic views. At the anchors if you want to get to the top tier, climb past and keep going... More anchors then a single bolt to top out the route... belay your buddy up from the bolts on the boulder over to the right.

Set: Chris Hailey & Alex Popinga, 10 Aug 2022

Sport 28m, 11
19 The Unknown

The left line from the main ledge, keep to the right or left if you want a harder outing. as with "old school epics" you can climb past the anchors and mantel the top to get to the top tier.

FA: Chris Hailey & Alex Popinga, 10 Aug 2022

Sport 28m, 11
20 Aliens Exist

Climb the corner then break out left through the over hang, beware of the calf pump and save some juice for the top!!!!

FA: Chris Hailey, 22 Oct 2022

Sport 15m, 7
22 Eat My Short

The line to the far left, climb the over hanging face. Needs bolts, has anchors (shares with corner line)

SportProject 15m, 7
22 Shin-Dig

Climb the left overhanging face (after the overhang you can get onto the ledge for the other lines) or keep going up through a tricky crux.

FA: Chris Hailey, 1 Jul 2022

Sport 30m, 12
23/24 Big City Life

Climb the right hand face from the chain. 30m of climbing with a few cruxes, step left at the top of the line to the anchors shared with "Shin-dig" Don't forget to enjoy the view!!!

FA: Chris Hailey, 1 Jul 2022

Sport 30m, 12
Closed Project 2

The right hand line from the ledge, still needs work and a chain for the ledge.

Set: Chris Hailey, 13 Jun 2022

SportProject 15m, 7
Closed Project 1

The left hand line from the ledge, still needs work and a chain for the ledge.

Set: Chris Hailey, 16 Jun 2022

SportProject 15m, 6
Upper Tier
Project 7

Climb the face

SportProject 15m, 5
23 The Kraken

Head up through vertical into steep climbing on a variety of jugs, pinches, crimps and pockets to 2/3 height then crimp your way to glory.

Set: Chris Hailey, Nov 2021

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Jan 2022

SportProject 25m, 11
24/25 Reckless Abandon

Start at the rusty bolts on the face, climb through 3 bolts to a ledge then balance your way up to the roof, take a rest on the ledge and then attack the final crux through the steep lip. No anchors yet, plans to instal them on the next trip, until then there are 2 clips to lower from.

Set: Chris Hailey, May 2021

FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jul 2021

Sport 25m, 12
20/21 Memento Mori

Just to the left of Johns Plaque, head up the left side of the bolts through overhanging jugs, once past the overhang veer right. *Anchors to be added.

Set: Chris Hailey, Nov 2021

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Jan 2022

SportProject 25m, 10
26 Triple Horn

Climb the line left of equanimity through 3 distinct horns. Climbing to the roof is around 22/23 then a bouldery finish through the final horn. This one is long and through steep sections so extend draws that are after the steep sections to eliminate rope drag or prepare for a bicep workout.

Set: Chris Hailey, Jan 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 14 May 2022

Sport 30m, 13
22 Equanimity

Climb the face on good crimps and side pulls, balance your way through the middle section and top out just under the roof. Still needs anchors added.

FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jul 2021

Sport 23m, 9
closed project 5

Climb the land before crime, at the roof head left to the alternative anchors through a bouldery move

SportProject 22m, 10
24 The Land Before Crime

Climb over several bulges before attacking the roof, the headwall is where the most technical moves are on good crimps. Extend the roof quick draw and the one below it if you don't want rope drag. This route is climbable but still needs an anchor installed which I will do in the coming weeks. currently there are a couple of clips at the top to rap from.

FA: Chris Hailey, 19 Jun 2021

Sport 30m, 13
26/27 The Great Skittles Tragedy of 2023

Climb "Taste The Rainbow" and keep going through a more challenging sequence of moves after the anchors at half height. Start right and traverse left into the first bolt, best to pre clip 1st and 2nd. A 70m rope should get you to the ground with rope stretch or have your belayer step right onto the ledges under "following the sun"

Set: Chris Hailey, 1 Jun 2020

FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Jan 2023

Sport 38m, 15
22 Taste The Rainbow

Start left of the corner, traverse in from right to left, best to pre clip at least 1st. climb the face through a series of mantels then slight overhang before the anchors in the rooflet. For full value keep going after the anchors!!!

Set: Chris Hailey, 1 Jun 2020

FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Jan 2023

Sport 20m, 7
19/20 Following The Sun

Climb the the corner (still needs Anchors)

Set: Chris Hailey, May 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 21 May 2022

Sport 15m, 4
27 The Creature Within

Climb the scooped out corner then head through the bouldery moves in the overhang.

Set: Chris Hailey, Jun 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 1 Jul 2022

Sport 15m, 5
27 El Bon Wombat

Climb the steepness on small holds through funky moves, keep to the overhanging arete heading left through the overhang to pull through the roof (crux). After the overhanging terrain, weave through the top section with some air between the bolts to a double ring bolt anchor.

Set: Chris Hailey, May 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jun 2022

Sport 25m, 10
20 - 22 Hedge Fund

Bridge out then onto the short face, odd climbing but fun.

Set: Chris Hailey, Apr 2022

FA: Chris Hailey, 14 May 2022

Sport 15m, 6
23 Cronos

Head up an overhanging boulder problem into crimps on the face then either take the right hand side of the slab up the slopey arete. *Still needs Anchors.

Set: Chris Hailey, Nov 2021

FA: Chris Hailey, 29 Jan 2022

SportProject 15m, 7

Showing all 55 routes.

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