Showing all 14 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
22 | Unknown
Left of the two lines here. Quite good until the last dangerous runout to the anchors - where all the holds are now dirty. | 17m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Loose Change | 17m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★★ The Name Changers
1
23
45m
2
24
35m
Two inoffensive pitches of orange up the wall right of Call Out Culture. Approach via abseils down Call Out Culture (either fix a 100m static or two raps with doubled 70m ropes). Belay off ringbolt and FH on jumbled rocks on narrow ledge below ramping corner. At least 18 draws required for first pitch - the midway belay is semi-hanging.
FA: 28 Jun 2020 | 80m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Lulu
Bolted top pitch. Rap in to DRB from DRB on ledge. Quality mix of climbing - face, arete and roof. FFA: Simmo & andy myers, 2007 | 30m, 14 | |||
27 | ★★ Dialectic - Best Forgotten Art
The rightmost route off the ledge, trending up a vague overhanging prow feature.
Set: Emil Mandyczewsky, 1 Jan 2019 FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Emil Mandyczewsky, Heath Black & Josh Norris, 30 Aug 2020 | 70m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ The Hornet
Rap in from the third DBB to the right. Go down climbers left of Lulu to DRB at base of flake line. Up spooky flake to big reach at first roof (crux). A 0.75 (green) camalot on a long sling under the roof can make you feel a little more zen about reaching around the roof to clip the bolt. After the roof trend towards the arete and cross over Dialectic - Best Forgotten Art. The line of least resistance on the upper section of wall and thus winds about the face. FFA: Simmo & Andy Myers, 2007 | 45m | |||
28 | ★★★ Yellowjacket
A sustained and technical power-endurance crimpfest leading into The Hornet. From the walk-in terrace rap from first set of anchors (as you approach) down IFP, fixing as you go or directly down from middle anchors. 75m rap to comfortable ledge. Finish as for The Hornet or jug out. Set: Emil Mandyczewsky, 1 Jan 2019 FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 24 Mar 2019 | 25m | |||
27 | ★★★ Incitatus for POTUS
An aesthetic, improbable 3-pitch line of technical face climbing up the water-washed wall between The Hornet and Lord of the Balrogs. Rap from the first bolts you come to (above Lord of the Balrogs) 35m to the first belay, and another 40m to the small ledge, clipping into a few bolts on the way down to avoid being stranded in space.
FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Emil Mandyczewsky & Heath Black, 2 Mar 2019 | 70m, 3, 16 | |||
23 | Puppet of a Sinner
55m 2 pitch face on back wall. Rap in from double rings in cave. FFA: Simmo & Andy Myers, 2007 | 55m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Charlie Don't Surf
2 pitch sport route in a picturesque and exposed position that serves as the access rappels to 'The Thin Line' ledge. 1 x 28m and 1 x 38m rap.
Set: Emil Mandyczewsky, Nov 2018 FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky & Paul Frothy Thomson, 9 Dec 2018 | 70m, 2, 18 | |||
23 | ★★ Monteith Memorial Traverse
The bolted traverse to gain the ledge below The Thin Line of Reprieve. Can be aided at about 18M1. Accessed by abseiling 70m straight down the wall to a semi-hanging belay from the rap point above. Start immediately left of the belay. Can be climbed either direction, with the "left to right" variant being about 1 grade harder. Stay off the vegetation! Named in remembrance of the many, many, o so many girdle First Ascents I've done with Monty over the years. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Emil Mandyczewsky, 11 Nov 2018 FA: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 5 Jul 2020 | 12m | |||
28 | ★★★ One Somebody (Linkup)
The giant 45m link of P1 and P2 of Two Nobodies, offering epic pump in a gnarly location. Technically grade 28, but might as well be 29 if you factor in the faff! Proper rope shenanigans ahoy! Climbing on two ropes is mandatory (!!!) even with a billion giant runners. The First Ascent used 3 x 60cm runners; 7 x 40cm runners, and 10 x Ordinary draws. As for Two Nobodies P1, but at the last bolt of that pitch, instead of traversing left to gain the hanging belay (and without deviating off-route to the crap rock out right for a rest), continue straight up and into the epic P2 headwall, leading to one of the hardest moves of the route 42m up. Mantle onto big ledge, quit climbing, take up croquet. For the full tick, avoid traversing off-route out left to the big break on P2 (at the white streak). Finish as for Two Nobodies P3 to top out. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Jared Anderson, Josh Mackenzie, Will Vidler, Tom Collins, Rob Medlicott & Magdalena de la Torre, 17 Oct 2020 | 80m, 2, 21 | |||
27 | ★★ Two Nobodies in the Middle of Nowhere (Arguing over Nothing)
Wild steepness, inspiring rock and gripping position. Pitched out due to the rather epic rope drag on both crux pitches, but P1 & P2 were originally climbed while belayed from the ledge. Bring long runners, seriously. No, seriously!
FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Will Vidler, Jared Anderson & Heath Black, 15 Jul 2020 | 80m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Superdyke
Long sustained route up a dyke feature splitting the upper section of the wall. Bring 18 draws (long if possible) and a backup jumar for escape. Fix 40m rap rope to anchor consisting of a FH and vertical Ubolt. Rap down grungy black corner for 10m until you can reach first bolt under roof. Clip in to most of the bolts below this on the way down as it is a steep wall and you will loose connection with the rock very quickly. Hanging belay off two Ubolt with feet on tiny ledge. Climb the dyke feature for 25m to roof, then traverse left under this (airy!) and onto small vegetated ledge. Finish up short grey wall to ledge where you started. FA: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 24 Mar 2019 | 35m, 15 |
Showing all 14 routes.