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Routes as trad in Cave Crag

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Showing all 7 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
S Chimney Sweep

At the top of the left branch of the gully is a cleft with a small bush at its base. Climb cleft to point of overhang, move onto right wall where easy climbing leads to the top.

FA: F. Richardson, A. Owen & W. M. Adams

Trad 13m
E1 Eve

Start 2m left of Jericho Wall. Climb directly to horizontal crack above the start. Finger traverse right until the pigeon hole is reached. Move left-handed across slab to finish. Has received few repeats over recent years, hence still retaining the old XS grade. Has a reputation for being quite thin and unprotected, around 6b French difficulty - feedback on a modern grade update welcome!

FA: R.A. Bennett, 1959

Trad 13m
E1 Jericho Wall

Start well up left-hand gully from point of small boulder below a tiny fig tree in a pigeon hole on the wall at 4.5m. Step on to wall and climb to horizontal crack. Hand traverse right and mantleshelf onto small ledge. At right hand edge climb groove to platform and top. Abseil off the tree just below the top.

FA: W.M. Adams, 1959

Trad 16m
HVS 5b Gaza

To the left of Cave Crack is a prominent pillar. Start at the bottom and climb up on the corner/pillar. Below the bolt you can place a few runners. Crux around the bolt (which can be a bit tricky to clip). Continue past bolt and easily to top.

FA: Ulf Carlsson & Iain Allan

FA: R. A. Bennett & F. Richardson, 1959

Trad 20m
VS Cave Crack

Climb slab on right in cave to platform below overhang. At point of cave and overhang is a steep shelf leading diagonally left and up. Hand traverse along this and into the crack then onto the left face. From here easier rock leads to finish on wide ledge with belay. Probably one or two grades harder if below six feet, as the opening move will require a dynamic latch onto the rail, swinging out over a sizeable drop down the boulder. Take care for the follower as well - too much slack and a fall on the rail at the start would mean hitting the ground, not enough will pull the climber off the wall.

FA: R. Caulkwell, 1954

Trad 20m
VS Lydia's Leap

Start up the semi-detached block with a big rightwards slanting crack to the right of Cave Crack. Over this (crux), then easier to the top over broken ground.

FA: Hamish Wilson & Lindsay Bingaman, 2017

Trad
D The Villa

Start 9m to the right of the cave, where there is a semi-detached piece of rock. Step from slab to point of semi-detached piece of rock. Traverse left and ascend steep wall directly to ledge with belay. Finish directly up groove behind belay. An alternative finish may be made by moving right from the belay ledge, up a small wall and over final boulder.

Trad 17m

Showing all 7 routes.

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