Routes as trad in Eagle's Nest

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Showing all 12 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
E2 5c Striptease

A hard mixed route - don't believe the old guide which calls this a "genuine sport climb"! Take some small nuts and cams as well as quickdraws for the three bolts. Start left of the root coming down from Eagle's Nest Crack and climb the crack in the front of the boulder past a bulge to the platform below Epitaph. Move right onto wall and climb direct past three bolts. At the third bolt step left (crux), then continue direct to top.

FA: Herve Sergeraert, Pierre Yves Gibello & Nathalie Sergeraert, 1990

Mixed trad 30m, 3
VS Eagle's Nest Crack

Start 2m to the right of fig tree root.

  1. 27m. Climb bulge, moving right to root-filled crack. Move along crack to second fig tree (runner). Cross eye of crack to face below block and pull up over block on good holds to platform.

  2. 9m. Ascend wall behind in the centre.

FA: Caukwell, Ker & Jenkins, 1954

Trad 37m
E2 6a Exhibition Wall

Right up there with the best. Climb the face 3m right of Eagle's Nest Crack and over a slight bulge to the root. Move up to scoop, step left, up to bolt. Climb up rightwards (crux), to horizontal crack then left to vertical crack and follow this to top.

FA: Andrew Wielochowski & Mark Savage, 1981

Trad 25m
E3 5c Anglepoise

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

FA: R. Baillie, R. Pillinger & T. Phillips, 1954

Trad 25m
E3 6a Savage Waltz

Best climbed when cliff is in the shade. Start 30' right of Anglepoise just left of a prominent boulder on the ground. Climb bulge and layback crack to a small tree. Swing right and layback (crux) to a niche. Follow horizontal crack right to easier ground.

FA: John Fantini, 1979

Trad 22m
E1 5b AU:19 Pig's Ear

A veritable corker! Start from boulder just right of Savage Waltz. Pull up bulge on good jugs and continue to glassy wall below "ear"(a peg with a split eye is on left). Up this wall (crux) to crack and layback strenuously rightwards to jugs and ledge. Easily to top.

FA: Rusty Baillie & John Winning, 1964

Trad 22m
HS 4b Thin Wall (original)

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

  1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

  2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

FA: R. Caukwell, P. Campbell & Heeroma, 1954

Trad 30m
S Thin Wall (Gable Finish)

Start as for Thin Wall Original.

  1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

  2. 10m.. Climb slightly right-handed to left point of the Baboon Traverse overhang. From here to tree on left at foot of sentry-box.

  3. 10m. Climb sentry-box direct to finish over slab at top. Belay to boulder some way back.

FA: Jenkins & Wilson, 1956

Trad 33m
S Baboon Traverse

Start as for Thin Wall Original. A traverse line.

  1. 12m. Climb crack. Move right onto wall and to platform and block belay.

  2. 17m. Traverse right-handed below overhang where, at 8m a flake runner may be found. 9m further on, below line of traverse, is a large semi-detached block with fig tree for belay.

  3. 14m. Rejoin line of traverse and then to foot of tree growing out of overhang, climb down across corner to large fig tree for final belay.

FA: P. Campbell & Ker, 1956

Trad 43m
E2 6a Owl Crack

This climb was originally climbed as an aid route by Barry Cliff and John Hull in 1963, and it then lay dormant until Henry Barber climbed it free in 1978. The first moves off the ground and the daring sequence across the final roof were the crux sections of the route. In 1989, without realising it had been climbed free, Herve Sergeraert did the route adding a more direct (but easier) way between the initial difficulties and the finishing roof which has become known as the "Paradise Variation''. During this ascent Herve placed a bolt on the roof, which Barber had originally led with nuts. The route is best done incorporating the Paradise Variation, but if it belongs to anyone it must surely be Barber. Start about 9m right of Thin Wall where there is an obvious edge. Three very hard moves up an overhanging wall then step left to the foot of crack. Climb up right along crack and shallow corner to Baboon Ledge. Traverse 3m right to big groove below the roof. Up groove then right (bolt), across wall. Join the pillar and climb the slab on its right.

FA: Barry Cliff & John Hull, 1963

FFA: Henry Barber, 1978

Trad 28m
VS Hangover

Start 2m to left of roots of fig tree at right-hand end of Eagle’s Nest Face. Small crack with tiny fig tree in it leads to ledge on left. Move left to point of corner. Strenuous move leads to corner which is climbed direct to foot of tree under overhang. Ascend overhang direct and finish over easy slab.

FA: W. M. Adams & A. Owen, 1958

Trad 17m
HS 4a Plunge

Start on tree to right of Hangover. Ascend wall and up to obvious cracked overhang. Climb this directly and exit on left. Up easily to belay on top of slab.

FA: M. Harris & R.D. Metcalfe, 1967

Trad 16m

Showing all 12 routes.

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