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Routes as sport in Gumshoe

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
E1 5a The Accidental Tourist

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top.

FA: Karlsen

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus, 1990

Sport 23m, 5
{SA} 25 Happy Happy Joy Joy

To the right of The Moronic Inferno. Crux between the forth and fifth bolts.

FA: R. Heap & K. Ounsire, 1999

Sport 23m, 7
6c AU:23 Happy End

This used to be an aid route called Soliloquy. In an incredible piece of climbing, Herve Sergeraert slowly whittled down the aid, and finally led it completely free. Many bolts and pegs were used on the original aid ascent, and since these still remain, the route is essentially "sport climb". However, beware some of the pegs as they a rusty and mobile. It used to be probably the most difficult route at Lukenya, although now it has been surpassed by a handful of other lines in Nemesis, Egyptian Crag and Gumshoe itself. In the centre of the main overhang is an obvious groove and crack beginning at 40'. Start 10' right of the groove and climb with dignity. The second half has lichens, making the on sight more rewarding...

FFA: Herve Sergeraert

FA: P. Snyder, 1971

Sport 23m
{SA} 29 The Italian Dream

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

Sport 0m

Showing all 4 routes.