Routes as trad in Gumshoe

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
VD Duchess

Start 7.5m to left of left-hand black streak. Direct ascent of wall.

Trad 20m
D Tweedledee

Start 1m to left of left-hand black streak. Follow slight groove and move out left-handed at steepest point. Belay to fig tree in grassy rake.

Trad 20m
VD Rattle

Start at groove exactly halfway between two black streaks. Follow groove until wall becomes thin; move out left to reach end of grass rake.

Trad 13m
VD Tweedledum

Start 1m to left of right-hand black streak. Climb black streak the whole way.

Trad 20m
S Allegro

Start behind clump of bushes between watersplash and right-hand black streak of pair. Climb 4.5m to ledge. Left along ledge to broken rock just to right of pigeonhole. Above pigeon hole right-handed, then straight to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Trad 22m
S Humpty Dumpty

Start 3m to left of watersplash at tall tree against face with, above, pockmarked waterline running to left of small grassy ledge at 12m. Follow water-mark to top.

FA: Grading Committee, 1959

Trad 23m
S White Rabbit

Follows the water steak shown in the diagram. Start beside tree then move left to water streak and follow to top.

FA: W. M. Adams & F. Richardson, 1959

Trad 23m
VD Gumshoe

Start between wide watersplash with tree at foot and croton tree on right, directly behind boulder. Follow groove to skyline and top.

Trad 22m
D Step Route

Last climb before corner. Start behind croton tree, follow groove over “steps” higher up.

Trad 20m
S Finis

Start in corner with fig tree at left-hand end of overhang. Climb right-hand wall of corner 1-2m away from tree and out of eye of corner then slightly left-handed to finish.

Trad 28m
E2 5b The Moronic Inferno

An absolute blaster and intimidating to boot. Start 8m right of Finis corner, where the wall begins to overhang. A bolt can be seen at 6m. Up rightwards to bolt. Cruxy step up left of bolt then right to small niche. Straight up to steep but easier finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

Trad 23m
S Yankeekuyu

At the right-hand end of the overhang at a small slabby buttress. Take a vertical line, step right at a thin spot on the wall, then back left. Finish upper slabs slightly right-handed (crux).

FA: D. Karinga & P. Snyder, 1970

Trad 28m
VD Pink Panther

A deep crack to the right of Yankeekuyu leads to a ledge at 6m. Directly behind a small tree a short wall leads to a second ledge (crux). Finish up a layback flake.

Trad 26m

Showing all 13 routes.

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