Routes as trad in Central wall

Start below the Gold Rush Buttress. This route ascends the buttress and the steep headwall above. Start in the centre of buttress where there is a recess with white streaks at 9 m.

1. 24 m Up middle of recess then step right at 3 m. Straight up then move left around corner. Move up chimney to sloping ledges which are climbed until a traverse right can be made to good belays by block.

2. 44 m Wide step right from belay then round corner to foot of crack. Up crack then further right to tramline cracks. Up these to broken groove and continue to ridge.

3. 18 m Move easily to top of buttress.

4. 18 m Up wide crack behind and at 15 m move right to ledge and belay.

5. 31 m Move along ledge to tramline cracks which are climbed to roof. Over this (2 aid pegs), then free climb slab above. Move left to arete and belay 5 m left of this. Peg belays.

6. 18 m Move left then up broken rock to crack. Belay on top of this.

7. 31 m Move left up broken rock to top. Seriousness: 5

To the right of Gold Rush Buttress there is a large grassy terrace. At the right end there is a black recess. Start left of recess.

1. 23 m The left edge of the recess gives access to a traverse right to a detached flake. Belay at balanced blocks on right end of flake.

2. 23 m A smooth wall leads up for 5 m then a delicate traverse (peg runner) leads to a groove on right which gives access to a long grassy Ledge. Traverse right along this to a belay below an overhanging crack in white rock.

3. 18 m Up crack (1 aid peg) to a good ledge. At the far end of ledge a right-angled corner leads to a larger ledge.

4. 12 m Along ledge then climb 3 m to next ledge, then walk back along it until it ceases to become a walk.

5. 34 m Traverse left along some bottomless corners to a honeycombed wall at 11 m. Up this with difficulty to a sentry-box. Up more easily to overhanging corner. Climb this to top. Seriousness: 4

To the left of 'Centaur' and about 30 m up there is an obvious roof with a white streaked wall beneath it. The first pitch of 'Poseidon' reaches this wall from the left. Start about 15 m left of 'Centaur' at an obvious corner to the right of an obsidian capped pedestal.

1. 27 m Move up broken rock then climb groove to reach obvious small tree. Step right and climb another groove to slab. Traverse 20' right to belay on white wall beneath roof. Peg belay.

2. 15 m Move right to corner. Step down and cross steep wall, then up rightwards to broken ground. Up this to belay below steepening. Peg belay in place.

3. 25 m Move right to corner. Climb narrow edge 10' left of corner and up to flake. Step left off flake to slab. Move left a few feet then up crack and traverse left across another slab to gain ledge. Cross wide gap and pull up to higher ledge beneath chimney crack. Peg belay in place.

4. 12 m Climb chimney to belay ledge. Peg belay.

5. 21 m Step down right to sloping ledge 1 aid peg). Now move up to square ledges on right edge (1 aid peg). Up easily to start of thin crack. Climb this (all aid) for 50' to ledge on right. Peg belay.

6. 25 m Up right crack (3 aid nuts), then step left to ledge. Climb up easily to big ledges beneath the headwall. Peg belay.

7. 37 m The way through the headwall is up a break to the left where there are perched blocks covered in bird dirt. Move left to gain blocks (peg runner). Up onto these then move up rightwards past two unstable blocks to gain slab. Up slab making rightwards, then back left to easier ground. Belay in cave. Finish by walking off to the right. (The last part of Pitch 7 joins 'Centaur' at the end of the final traverse of 'Centaur'.) Seriousness: 4

To the left of 'The Zebra Wall' there is a grey buttress which is only obvious when viewed directly below. At its foot is a prominent rock pedestal with a cave behind. This route ascends the buttress. Start left of cave.

1. 34 m Move up 2 m to a ledge on the right. Now climb up leftwards (1 aid peg) to ledge. Traverse right along grassy ledge for about 12 m and climb a crack just right of large detached block. Continue up to belay.

2. 18 m Move right onto arete and climb easily over blocks and wide cracks to good ledge beneath vertical crack.

3. 24 m Up crack and move through overhang into widening chimney (peg runner). Chimney up then swing right into crack. Ascend steepening crack until a step right can be made onto ledge. Now move up leftwards to good ledge. Peg belays.

4. 15 m Climb crack behind ledge then move left underneath overhang (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg) into groove. Hand-traverse right to a ledge. Nut belay.

5. 43 m Traverse right 6 m then ascend to chimney. Climb up this and follow vegetated gully to huge belay stance.

6. 46 m Move right onto block and climb up rightwards to gain groove. Move up until a traverse left can be made (peg runner). Traverse for 9 m then up rightwards (peg runner), and finish off left. (The belay at the top of Pitch 5 and the first 9 m of Pitch 6 are shared with 'The Zebra Wall'). Seriousness: 4

About 30 m left of 'Olympian' there is an obvious large grassy terrace about 30 m up the cliff. Start slightly right of this.

1. 37 m Climb wall bearing diagonally left to a grassy terrace and belay below prominent crack which is capped by a roof at 12 m.

2. 37 m Climb crack with aid then up behind roof to exit above chimney and belay on sloping ledge. Used No 4 & 5 BD cams

3. 27 m Climb slab on left to foot of crack. Up crack with aid. Poor gear and loose rock.

4. 15 mClimb crack then left to ledge. Up left to belay. Loose rock

5. 46 m Descend to big ledge on left to terrace. Along this to vegetated gully and up to large chockstone belay on top of pillar.

6. 18 m Climb up right by crack to belay in niche.

7. 34 m Climb thin crack up on right with aid. Seriousness: 4

To the left of the highest overhanging section of the Main Wall is an obvious large flake. It is probably one of the most prominent features on the cliff and is located some 30 m below the top, with the shadow of a wide chimney on its right side and a green tree growing from its lip. The route starts directly below this flake at the foot of an obvious corner crack with a bulge at 15 m.

Often done with aid on the crux pitch, then HVS A1.

1. 31 m Climb wall on right then cross left to a crack at 9 m. Move up crack and surmount bulge to ledge. Climb tramline cracks to belay ledge .

2. 31 m Move up easily to steep wall. Climb wall then move left to crack. Up this and over protruding flake into chimney which is climbed to ledge.

3. 18 m Easily up rising traverse left to a large cave.

4. 25 m Now a long traverse right begins across ledges to crack. Climb crack to big ledge.

5. 21 m Along ledge to steep left crack which is climbed free for 12 m to ledge.

6. 25 m Move right and up chimney to groove. Climb this to ledge below flake.

7. 24 m Moving down right turn the flake and enter chimney which is climbed to top.

8. 15 m Rising traverse left to finish.

Seriousness: 3

Start as for 'Olympian'.

1. 20 m Up 'Olympian' for 5 meters then right 3 meters to crack. up this which has a protuding triangular flake to belay on square ledge.

2. 46 m Right to beneath large block. Climb up to it then up 37 meters (all aid) until it is possible to move left to a large ledge.

3. 12 m Move up slightly right to gain 'Olympian' at Pitch 5.

Seriousness grade: 3

The big crack system some 30 m right of 'Olympian' on the left side of a large bottomless buttress. The climb enters the obvious crack on the fourth pitch. Before this the route takes a less obvious crack system slightly left. Start about 30 m right of 'Olympian', below the left end of a line of overhangs at 8 m. A small pillar leads up to a slab below the overhang.

1. 18 m Up pillar to slab. Move left and up to overhang. Over this (1 aid nut), and up to good ledge.

2. 9 m Ignore the crack above. Move right to next crack, which is climbed to top of pillar (3 aid nuts) ,

3. 25 m Step right and up, then back left into shallow groove. Ascend the crack on the right side of chute which goes completely free, to a small but good belay.

4. 30 m Attain the flake on right, then descend its right edge until the wide crack system on the pillar can be reached. Climb this (1 aid nut), until the rock deteriorates. Continue up the crack then step right and up to belay on top of pillar.

5. 23 m The corner crack above is ignored. Traverse right instead on poor rock to a ledge. Hove further right to good corner crack. Up this to ledge. Hove left and up two steps to a ledge with a twin crack system above it.

6. 23 m Up the twin cracks to a resting place on right. Up left then traverse left across top of groove to ledge. Follow ramp leading left (3 aid pegs), to small ledge and belay.

7. 40 m Up 5 m (1 aid peg) to big blocks then traverse right and up to sling. Using sling descend a few feet and traverse right to groove. Up this (aid pegs) to exit right. 10 pegs were used for aid on this pitch. Seriousness: 6

Some excellent climbing leads to just below the final pitch of Andromeda, followed by a rather disappointing traverse to base of the final Olympian chimney which is taken to the top. Start just left of centre of the rockfall, where a pillar leads up to the only break in the roof line at 20 m. Thin blades may be useful. Climb left-facing flake crack for 5 m, then move right and down to climb short left-facing corner on right of the pillar, to ledge (18 m, VI+). Go up crack, hard, to move right at 3 m to great left-facing (Moac) corner. Take this to ledge, move left and low to jam up a crack to slight niche and rest before a vicious bulge with semi-hanging stance above (25 m). Now left and down to base of rotten gully; climb this to ledge and belay at top of Andromeda chimney (15 m, IV). Follow Andromeda over poor rock for 5 m to a ledge; make a long step left to a steep crack - the continuation of gully below. At top of this go left to ledge (10 m, VI+). Bridge and chimney up left side of huge detached pillar (14 m, VI) then follow Andromeda for 4 m to stance and belay on left (VII-). Traverse left with occasional tension from pegs to fine stance and belay (15 m, V+, A0). Move up with peg for aid to gain a smooth slab, then left to a wall leading to the Olympian chimney where it becomes a scramble (10 m, V+, A0). Now follow Olympian.

Above the fig tree the rockfall has created an area of grey rock capped at 25 m by a band of roofs. The right-most roof has a crack to its right. Start 4 m left of a point directly below crack line, just right of rockfall centre. Climb dirty rock to a groove and follow this for 5 m. Step right across an arete to base of another groove; take this to a roof and move right to a vast semi-detached flake, obvious from below. Follow the fine crack above (VI+) to right end of the roofs (25 m). Continue up crack (VI+) for some 7 m, make a thin traverse right to the base of another corner/groove system and climb this to ledges on left. An easy chimney leads to a big ledge (25 m). Take the wall immediately above (V) to gain a slab, traverse left past a dirty crack and round a rotten arete to a comfortable ledge (15 m). Step back right to left side of a great tapering pillar (Shark's Tooth). Climb this then a crack. Above a steep bulge, move left across a steep wall (VI) and mantelshelf onto an excellent ledge (15 m). From left end of ledge move up awkwardly to base of a corner. Climb this (use ledge on right with hidden layaway above, VI) to easier ground and a fine semi-hanging belay 3 m directly above corner (10 m.) Traverse right below overhangs using tension from 2 pegs in place and one bolt. Climb white ledges with bulges in between to easier rock and a fine belay on right (VI-, 20 m). Go up to a ledge below a roof; traverse left below a steep wall (various runners including thread) to reach highest ledge used by roosting birds (peg in place). Reverse down and move left to another ledge system. From a peg in place move left across a dark red wall to an arete; climb this on better rock to a ramp trending right, hence the top (25 m).

Approximately 30 m left of 'Stiletto' and about 30 m up, there is a prominent wide crack splitting a brown wall beneath a belt of overhangs. This wide crack is entered by a rising traverse in from the right. Start beneath the crack and slightly right at a recess.

1. 28 m Move up 3 m then traverse left across grooves to a series of blocks. Climb up these making for an obvious groove directly above, which is capped by a vertical narrow crack. Climb groove, (peg runner), and 6 m up crack (3 aid nuts) to a hanging belay 3 m below where crack finishes.

2. 28 m Move a few feet up crack, then tension leftwards off a high nut to gain foot of wide crack. Climb crack (1 aid nut at 30'), to top and belay on sloping ledge on left. Chain anchor in place.

3. 27 m This pitch is entirely aid. Surmount large overhang by groove up on right. Numerous thin pegs and four bolts lead to the lip of overhang, then move leftwards up wall on bad pegs to belay ledge. Bolt belay and dubious pegs.

4. 43 m Move left up ramp to wall with crack. Up this (2 aid pegs), then up slightly right to niche (peg runners). Move left to broken rock and ascend until an awkward move leads right into a groove. Up groove (5 aid pegs), to a hanging belay 6 m below top of groove.

5. 27 m Up to top of groove (3 aid pegs and 1 aid nut), then swing out left onto steep broken rock above. Finish rightwards. Seriousness: 6

Just right of Zeus the overhanging walls have been climbed by a serious route: Rocky Horror Show (VI+, A2). 30m right of Zeus the Central Wail is broken by an obvious line of weakness finishing in a vegetated gully and climbed by Stilleto; this starts directly below in a steep groove left of a grey column. Andrew Wielochowski said: "Detailed description is in MCK climbing log book 1986 ish? Also general blurb about it in the MCK bulletin no 80. I never wrote it up more as I did not think anyone would be keen to repeat it."

Some 18 m left of Stiletto and about 20 m up the cliff, there is a big obvious down-pointing grey flake wedged between two columns. The climb makes for this flake from the right. Start about 24 m left of Stiletto, to the left of a bush-filled groove where a thin crack splits the wall.

1. 28 m Climb thin crack for 6 m to where it bulges. Move up bulge (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg), to where its possible to make a wide step right to small ledges. Up slightly then move left (1 aid peg)[freed], to good ledge by grass clump. Ascend corner (peg runner), then step left to small ledge. Now climb over bulge above to foot of good crack. Climb crack for 5 m then hand-traverse left and descend to big ledge on top of flake.

2. 28 m Move up cracks above right side of ledge for a few feet then climb wall on left to good ledge. Move left along this ledge to small groove and climb this (peg runner), to bulges. Make obvious traverse right across wall to big groove. Climb this, avoiding prominent pointed flake [this was stood on when freed], to overhang. Surmount overhang (3 aid pegs), to slab above. Up slab until steep wall is reached (peg runner), then traverse right across slabs for 6 m and descend into groove. Peg belays set up high. [All freed]

3. 30 m Traverse right to left corner of big wall. Climb corner for 9 m (2 peg runners), then ascend rightwards (4 aid pegs), to obvious vegetated ledges on top of wall. Peg belays around corner on Stiletto. [Freed, no pegs removed. About AUS 20-21 grade of difficulty on the traverse. At the start of traverse move high on the block(left side) then stem across (a full split maybe required on this pitch)]

4. 9 m Move up final section of Pitch 3 of Stiletto to final stance of that route.

5. 37 m Climb last pitch of Stiletto. Seriousness: 3

The highest section of the Main Wall is steep, pale and overhangs at the top. Just right of the top an obvious gully descends the cliff for 30 m. The climb starts immediately below this in a steep groove to the left of a grey column. Pegs should not be carried on this route.

1. 30 m Climb crack until a move right can be made onto a ledge. Move along this and belay in niche up on right.

2. 30 m Up slightly then step right on buttress and up to ledge. Move up left then back right to steep black wall which is climbed to belay at triangular flake.

3. 25 m Up ramp and ridge to belay below overhangs.

4. 37 m (THIS PITCH HAS CHANGED) From in situ belay peg, traverse 2 m left to break leading up through overhangs. Now traverse right across slabs to finishing gully. Seriousness: 3