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Routes as sport in Central Buttress

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
21 Shrapnel

Climbs a pillar located about 10m right of where the access path to Blue Meridian turns steeply left. Fully bolted, however a finger sized cam may help add confidence for the slopey top-out.

Sport 25m, 9
18 Bad Back

Below Battle Cruiser ledge. Bolted route slightly uphill left & around the corner from "The Three Stooges."

FA: J. Nermut & D. Humphries

Sport 12m, 5
18 The Three Stooges

Obvious bolted face below Battle Cruiser ledge, located up side track between Great Tier & Central Buttress access. Mantle near top & across some loose ground to rap station.

FA: T. McKenny, S. Scott & B. Bull

Sport 20m, 7
18 Living the Dream

20m R of The Three Stooges up secondary track. Tricky start then up arete.

FA: M. Bailey, B. Bull, T. McKenny & D. Bruce

Sport 12m, 4
22 Five Easy Pieces

The small buttress to the left of the Linda chimney, capped by overhangs. Belay at far left end of Battlecruiser Ledge. Step left across Linda chimney and follow 6 U bolts up wall and blind corner capped by overhangs to double U belay on small ledge above.

FA: Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith, 23 Apr 2019

Sport 15m, 6
22 Major Tom
Sport 28m
22 Cognitive Dissonance

The line up the face and arête between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancy crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20.

FA: J. Nermut, D. Humphries & Jan 2015., Jan 2015

Sport 28m, 12
21 Thesaurus

Steep start then keep following the U's

FFA: Heather & Nick Hancock

FA: Roger, James Parkyn, Heather, Nick Hancock & May 2016., May 2016

Sport 24m, 10
21 Heat

The line of bolts just right of Acid Test. Take a few mid-size cams for 15m of easy scrambling at the top of the third pitch to get to the start of the final pitch. All belays are spacious ledges with DBBs.

  1. 18m 21 Straight up the face. Cruxy.

  2. 28m 21 Step right off ledge and follow black streak up face, eventually moving to left side of pillar.

  3. 32m 20 Climb up arete to large ledge, ignore DBB for Acid Test (on left) and continue scrambling for a further 15m to base of bolted arete.

  4. 25m 21 Straight up the arete.

Sport 100m, 4, 35
22 Wedgetail

The line of FH right of Heat. Nice, pumpy climbing on some sharp rock.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, 2014

Sport 28m, 13
23 Peregrine

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

Sport 48m, 2
21 Remembrance

Well conceived line up a sharp arete.

  1. 15m (21). Steep climbing past 7 bolts to DBB.

  2. 30m (21). Up, then tricky move left to gain sharp arete. Focus, slapping, and footwork will see you at the DBB at the top of this excellent pitch. 13 bolts.

FA: D Humphries & J Nermut, 2012

Sport 45m, 2, 20
25 V

A fun little sport climb starting 5m R of Remembrance and climbing to the same anchor. Climb up and into shallow R facing corner, continue up to steep bulge. Jugs lead to good side-pulls on the face above. Step back L to lower-off.

Trickier if you are short. However is defo 25.

FA: Simon Young, 2013

Sport 17m, 8
20 Alpine Style

Up manky chimney then orange face Access left of Drama Queen and Princess on flange buttress

FA: D. Humphries & J. Nermut

Sport 22m, 8
23 Clown Face

Classy face climbing on the lowest tier of Circus Wall. Can be accessed by climbing the first 3 pitches of Heat and then scrambling across scrubby ledge.

Sport 20m, 9
21 Circus Interruptus

Nice arete with the crux at the top

Sport 16m, 6
20 All The Way
Sport 15m
24 Empty, Unfilled, Bare

Contrived but good!

Sport 6

Showing all 18 routes.

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