The access route for the main cliff, climbs black spikey flake/groove feature up to the "Genesis Ledge". Locate a single belay bolt behind a tree growing on the ledge system at the base. The obvious crux comes at the last 2 bolts as you pull over onto the ledge.
4 Pitches (18, 24, 23, 19)
starts with "Genesis" for the first pitch.
Pitch 2 [grade 24] - Forbidden Fruit
above the belay on the left side of "Genesis ledge", directly up steep clean pocketed rock. Good rest after 3rd bolt, crux between B5 and 6. Crazy jugs at bolt 7 that are too good to believe. Interesting corner system to the top. 9 bolts to DBB on the "footledge"
Pitch 3 [grade 23] - the Tree of Knowledge
Straight up the corner above the belay, then sliding across the face on wild sculpted holds, to access a stalactite and undercling flake on the prow. You may partake of any of the holds on the wall, but grab not onto the tree of knowledge, it is Forbidden! Go left above the shrub, avoiding the sharpest rock to DBB on the grey prickly slab. 11 bolts
Pitch 4 [grade 19] - Exodus
Up the slab onto well pocketed face, head right at the 6th bolt and traverse down around then up tufa at the top to a DBB immediately below the vegetation line. 7 bolts. Strongly recommended to belay second up from here for communication. then exit over the roots and bushes to a three trunked tree on the summit.
Face and Tufa climbing directly above the access pitch off of Genesis ledge. Strangely improbable flat holds lead you to the large incut feature at which point you have to slide around right onto the black tufa system. Climb this along with a selection of face holds on the left, until a sneaky slide to the right just below the headwall and glory pulls between great holds.
Above the DBB, a vegetated traverse on the jug flakes system leads left past two bolts to join "Forbidden Fruit"
The most climbers-left line on the Lost Wall cliff. The star of this route is the pitch 4 (27, 30m) on very good quality, yellow rock.
The bolts to develop this climb were sponsored by Armbury Company.
(18, 20m, 6 bolts)
(Bolting and FA by: Greg Jack and Joshua Merriam, July 2019)
First pitch of Forbidden Fruit and Genesis.
Climb spikey flake/grove feature up to the ‘Genesis Ledge’.
(16, 18m, 5 bolts)
Easy climb traversing left to the anchor located on the second ledge.
(25, 18m, 6 bolts)
Straight up easier terrain to committing bouldery sequence before the anchor.
(27, 30m, 11 bolts)
Beautiful pitch. Very sustain climbing in steep terrain. Bolts are getting more apart on the easier terrain close to the top.
Finish at the anchor located 3 meters below the top of the cliff to avoid the rope-drag on sharp rocks.
