Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Campsite Area Boulders B-Shug | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ B-Shug
Starts deep in a hole and climbs out arete. Tops out to the left. Boulder to right is off. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Ball Scratcher Boulder | |||||||
Ball Scratcher
Start and the bottom and work your way up the arete. | |||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Bottom Feeder | |||||||
V7 | ★★ Bottom Feeder
As soon as you reach the gully take the gully uphill for 50 meters. Start on crimps on left side of boulder. Climb up two hard moves to topout. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Dump Truck | |||||||
{US} V5 | ★★★ Dump Truck
Start low on obvious crimps, navigate to the big horizontal rail then a huge move up to the higher horizontal slot above, and easy top-out FA: Nathan Sick, 1 Mar 2017 | ||||||
{US} V5 | Lot Lizard
Start to the left of Dump Truck, on wide crimps. Two powerful moves to a top out to the left of dump truck. FA: Nathan Brand, 1 Mar 2017 | ||||||
{US} V3 | Truck Stop
Start one move in from Dump Truck on obvious horizontal. Navigate right to a big move and an easy top out. FA: Nathan Sick, 1 Mar 2017 | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Falling apart | |||||||
{US} V4 | ★★★ Through the tree
Follow the crimps up the left-hand side of the face, and struggle over or under the tree branch at the top. FA: Eric Ducroix | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Giant shoe | |||||||
{US} V3 | ★★ Lone boat
Sit-start on the far left of the boulder, get established on good hand-holds and traverse on these to top out on the small boulder on the right. FA: Eric Ducroix, 1 Jan 2018 | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Iceberg
Crimpy sit-down start. FA: Eric Ducroix, 1 Jan 2018 | ||||||
{US} V1 | Jack, don't let go
Round the side from iceberg, good warm-up. Pretty vertical on crimps. Don't let go! FA: IanT, 30 Mar 2020 | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Little House on the Prarie | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Treehugger
Starts in the juggy crack on the left, follows the crack up right to the dihedral and goes straight up. A really nice climb with an airy top out. The small tree in the middle of the line is off! FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Laura
Far right of the boulder. Sit start at the bottom of the obvious rail, and move up and right using a combo of powerful moves and heel hook trickery. Mantle up and over onto the slab, and walk up to finish. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
V5 | Log Cabin Proposal
Up the face on the left side of the boulder next to Treehugger. FA: Michele Leone | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Wood Stove
Up the middle of the boulder, traverse left on crimps, then same top out as Treehugger FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
{US} V3 | ★★★ The Blind One
Far right of the boulder. Sit start with you right hand on the rail and left hand on an undercling jug. Powerful moves up to a crimp and then the overhanging rail, before topping out on the same finish as Laura. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
{US} V1 | ★ Donovan McSlabb
Straight up the slab on pebbles to the top. Avoid arete on right and large feature on left (slab only pure and simple) FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Night Crawler | |||||||
Back Bone (project)
Sit-down start on good rail, moves up the rail and over the lip. Avoid dabbing on the tree that is directly under you. Tricky one to spot and pad. On the boulder with a tree in front of it just to the right of Nightcrawler. | |||||||
{US} V6 | ★★ Night Crawler
Sit-down start on the arete, left hand on good side pull and right hand on lowest crimp, starts up the arete and then takes a big swing to the face of the overhang with a very tricky mantle to the top. A true Lukenya test-piece. FA: Nathan Brand (stolen from Andrew Andress), 1 Feb 2017 | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Oversized Block | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Kenyan Cowgirl
Crouch start below and right of the horizontal crack on a pinch and an edge, moves left following the crack and then goes straight up. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
{US} V0 | Kenyan cowsmallboy
Go up the easy broken rock to the right of Kenyan Cowgirl. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders The One with the View | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Quicky
Mental. Traverse left and up on good holds, just don't swing off and down the big drop underneath. FA: Henrick Reuhkala | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders The Roost | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Chickenhead
Sit-down start matched on really nice jug, moves left and up with a big move to a nice edge up at the lip. One of Lukenya's best! FA: Andew Andress | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Rooster Tail
Sit-down start on the same jug as Chicken Head, moves right and up. (Very tensiony for shorter climbers and probably a full grade harder due to the heinous intermediate side-pull crimp before the jug near the top.) FA: Andew Andress | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Kuku Kienyeji
Stand start on the left side of the boulder, traverse across the middle of the face, and finish up the same moves as Rooster Tail. Pumpy! FA: Andew Andress | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders The Wave | |||||||
V1/2 | ★★ Ripple
Highball. Stand start and go straight up the face. A really nice technical boulder problem. Avoid using boulder on the right. *It could possibly be a V0 variation if used. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
Nathan's Project
On the face round the side from Ripple - unclimbed VHard project. Start on obvious holds to the right of the far left arete and climb small crimps to a big move and an easy topout. | |||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Trash boat | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Trash boat
Low start on compression of the block that looks like a boat near a pile of trash. Compress your way up to the throne topout. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Upper Roost | |||||||
V0 | Upper Roost Warmup
Travel on jugs on overhanging face above Chicken Head. FA: Andew Andress | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Flirt
Start on small crimps on right face of arete on block to the right of upper roost warmup. Landing better than it looks. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Whale's mouth | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Mom Pants Traverse
Same start as Oversize Shorts with low left traverse and finishes up Carolyn's Baby. Really fun moves on the overhung traverse. | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Oversized shorts
Crouch start on far right of prow, traverses just a few moves left and then up the face FA: Lindsey Andress | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Carolyn's baby
Sit-down start matched on low slot edge, goes straight up on great slopers edges and incuts. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
V3 | Whale's mouth traverse
Start on left most holds in the whale’s mouth and finish on the top out of oversized shorts. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Rookie Rock | |||||||
VB | ★ Credit Card Warm-up
This is the obvious easiest line on the boulder. It's juggy all the way up and easily doable for most climbers in flip flops. FA: Probably a Maasai sheperd | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Ice Cube
Sit-down start with left hand on rail and right on low crimp, moves up the short problem using slopey compression and crimps. It's a nice lowball. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Dancin' Shoes
Sit-down start with left hand low on arete and right hand on a very low undercling, moves a few moves up the arete and then traverses right across and up a the slab. Avoid going all the way up arete or around on the left side. FA: Lindsey Andress | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Rookie of the Year
Sit-down start (almost lying) on low jug and goes straight up the right side of the boulder. FA: John Shunk | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Cereal Killer | |||||||
{US} V0 | ★★★ Cheerio
Up the easiest part of the boulder with lots of textured holds and good feet. Stand-start. Good for first-timers outside or for a quick warm-up. FA: John Shunk, 6 Sep 2017 | ||||||
V1 | Frosted Flake
Ascend the boulder using the flake on its left-hand side. STand-start. FA: John Shunk | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Razorback | |||||||
{US} V5 | ★★ Razorblade
Start low in the cave on a crimp rail and up to bigger jug (left of razorback start holds). Up and left the steep face on small crimps, avoiding any of the larger razorback holds to the right. Join razorback for the topout only. Would be 3* if not a bit of an eliminate! FA: Livio van Enckevort | 5m | |||||
{US} V4 | ★★ Razorback
Sit start on low rail. Make big move up to the crimp and commit to the top out. FA: Nathan Brand FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
{US} V3 | ★ Angelina
Nice warmup for the other two, with an interesting topout. Sit-start on the obvious hold on the right of the boulder, going to another good hold with quite a big move, then up again. Keep your nerve for the topout, the holds are there. Spotter should jump on top of the boulderer if they fall to avoid tumbling down the rock behind! FA: Andrew Andress, 1 May 2017 | ||||||
{US} V4 | ★★ Social Distancing
Beautiful line going up the arete, avoiding Razorback holds until the jug for the topout. Sit start low to the left of the arete, come round to the right of it to a good crimp, then a big move up the slanting crack. Keep it together and go for the finishing jug before the same topout as Razorback. FA: John Shunk, 19 Mar 2020 | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Golden Nugget | |||||||
{US} V4 | ★★★ Golden Nugget
Crouch start in full compression. Climb the fridge trending left to the top out. Takes the proud south-facing face and the two aretes. Start with a right hand on the arete on the rigth and a left on a crimp in the centre of the face. Work your way up with compression magic. Spotter for the FA was tied into a rope anchored on a nearby tree to avoid a tumble down the cliff below and protect the climber! FA: Nathan Brand, 4 Aug 2017 | ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Whole Tree | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Whole Tree
FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
V0 | Shunks
| ||||||
Campsite Area Boulders Upper Pleistocene Cranial Remains | |||||||
First ascentionist gets to name
Take the overhanging crack from right to left. Still unclimbed. | |||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Golden Block | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Fanta Orange
Starts crouched. Straight up the face on good holds, just don't look down at the top to avoid fantaing your trousers. FA: Andrew Andress, 1 Apr 2017 | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Golden Shower
Same start as Golden Power, bail right around the arete. FA: Nathan Brand | ||||||
V5/6 | ★★★ Golden Power
Start on arete, make your way left onto face and then straight up through big powerful moves. FA: Nathan Brand, 1 May 2017 | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Nemesis Posse | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Witness the Weakness
Crouch start with both hands in the big crack, on the left. Go straight up from there, avoiding Weakness Protection Programme which is further right. FA: Eric Ducroix, 2 Apr 2017 | ||||||
{US} V2 | Weakness Protection Programme
Very similar to Witness the Weakness, but start further right with hand in the big crack and go up slghtly better holds over the top. FA: IanT, 2 Apr 2020 | ||||||
V2 | ★★★ Bolt-Free Froggies
Go up the arete opposite Witness the Weakness. Start on jugs on the left for easier, lower on crimps on the right for harder. FA: Emmanuel F, 1 Apr 2017 | ||||||
{US} V0 | Eskeletor
Easy warm-up or beginner lowball. Traverse left to right with hands on jugs on the arete. FA: 2 Apr 2020 | ||||||
{US} V3 | ★★ Lizard Sandwich
Start on the slab on the left. Go up and right. FA: Emmanuel F, 2015 | ||||||
★★ Dos
Start on small crimps in the mdidle of the face. Up and right to finish. | |||||||
★★ Tres
Start far right and trasverse left and up to finish. | |||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Paradise ladder | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Paradise ladder
Nice. #juggy FA: Emmanuel F | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Horse Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Farasi
Sit-down start on low jug and goes up left of arete on good crimps. FA: Nathan Brand, 3 May 2017 | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Horse Trailer on a Cadillac
Same start hold as Farasi and goes left on a powerful traverse and topout. FA: Andrew Andress? | ||||||
{US} V2/3 | Bigrock Horseman
Sit-start low to the right of the arete, go up on crimps and big left-hand gaston staying right of arete to the top. FA: IanT, 2 Apr 2020 | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Kichwa Kobe | |||||||
{US} V4 | ★★ Kilpikonna
Sit-start from a squarish hold under the arete. Powerful first move up to a crack, then easier but fun moves up the arete to finish. FA: Joel M, 31 Oct | ||||||
{US} V2/3 | ★ Touching cotton
Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there. FA: IanT, 31 Oct | ||||||
{US} V1 | Cigare au bout des lèvres
Not a classic but can be a good warm-up. Stand-start on a horizontal crack on the left of the boulder, then right and up on good holds. FA: IanT, 31 Oct | ||||||
{US} V2 | Prairie-dogging
Same sit-start as for Touching cotton, the lowest holds on the right of big diagonal cracks. From here move up right on holds in cracks and mantle over the top. FA: IanT, 31 Oct | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Bergmeister | |||||||
{US} V1 | Felix the Cat
A couple of variations on the left-hand side of the boulder, starting stood up at the horizontal rail and mantling. Very short but strenuous. FA: Felix Berg, 2005 | ||||||
{US} V5 | Berghain
Sit-start on the only real obvious holds through the middle of the boulder. Hard move to get established in the pocket, then hard moves to the top. FA: Felix Berg, 2005 | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Kizunguzungu | |||||||
{US} V2 | ★ Mzunguzungu
Better than it looks. Stand-start in the middle of the overhang matched on okay holds and feet high. Get up to the big block and mantle above this to finish up the slab above. FA: IanT, 31 Oct | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Mabati Roof Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Mabati Roof
Stack pads to start on the only jug you could possibly reach then climb left out of the roof on an incredible crack line. Really Fun and unique climb. FA: Andrew Andress? | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Slabba the Hutt | |||||||
{US} V1 | Slab in the face | ||||||
{US} V1 | Slabdash | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Dhoruba | |||||||
{US} V2 | Mvua inakuja
Short but fun problem. Start on lowest usable hold on the arete, one hardish move up to the big flakes, then work your way left along the arete and up to finish. FA: IanT, 8 Nov | ||||||
Nemesis Area Boulders Shinrin-yoku | |||||||
{US} V3 | ★ Ukiyo
Start matched on the decent rail on the far right of the boulder. Couple powerful first moves up to the lip, then use holds a bit further right for a tricky mantle. Short but esthetic line. FA: IanT, 6 Dec | ||||||
{US} V2 | Yugen
On the left side of the boulder. Start on a good rail, then a big move to a decent hold just under the lip. From there find holds further in and mantle. FA: IanT, 6 Dec | ||||||
Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Ballz Hot
Crouch start in the overhang matched in a good slot in the crack, climb out right and up the right side of the face. Once you pass the two big holes in the face (great jugs) you are commited. This is a pretty scary but all around amazing climb. Avoid using the right arete until at the top, although this can be a nice bailout lower down. Getting off the boulder can be tricky! FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
Picnic tree Boulders The Crown | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ The Joker
Crouch start matched in low crack on the side of the boulder you arrive at from the picnic tree path, follow crack out of roof and then climb arete left to finish left over the exposed overhang. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Final Boss
A sharp and aesthetic traverse of the boulder. Start matched in "The Joker" crack and proceed to make a full traverse of the boulder utilising the features on the main face to the end of the climbable holds marked by a short horizontal crack with a small pocket at it's end. Once the furthest hold right "the pocket" has been achieved, the climber may top out. Note: the top edge of the boulder is off limits. The climber must dance around on the holds and features on the main face and belly of the boulder. FA: Peter Muambi Naituli, 27 Jul 2020 | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Jack
Same start as Joker but goes right out of roof and up the short face to the top. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Heavy is the Head
To the right of Jack. Sit-down start matched on the thin edge, powerful moves up and to the right out of the roof then left up the short pace. Amazing, precise moves! FA: Tyler Algeo | ||||||
V5 | ★★ All Things Royal
To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ For Every King a Crown
Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall. FA: Andrew Andress | ||||||
{US} V3 | ★ Let them eat cake
Start on the same holds as For Every King a Crown, but then go left and up with big side-pulls and cool body positions. FA: IanT, 8 Nov | ||||||
Picnic tree Boulders Tickfest | |||||||
V1 | ★ Tickle my fancy
Up the slab on the left side of the boulder, starting as low and as far left as possible then making your way up and to left, topping out near the tree branches. Slabby and technical climbing. FA: IanT | ||||||
V2 | Ticked off
Start on the lowest jugs in the middle of the boulder and top out on the chicken head at the top. FA: joelm2411 | ||||||
Picnic tree Boulders Un-generic boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Leg day gains
An enticing little slab problem directly above the tiny slot between the neighboring boulder FA: Peter Naituli, 13 Aug 2020 | ||||||
V0 | ★★★ Just grab and smear
Start at the arete and go more or less straight up FA: Nyamzi Giati, 13 Aug 2020 | ||||||
V2 | ★★★ Hamstring flex
Start at the arete 'Just grab and smear' and proceed to traverse right into 'eg day gains' and finish up via the latter sequence FA: Peter Naituli, 13 Aug 2020 | ||||||
Watertower 2 min Boulders | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ 2 min
Nice. #crimpy FA: Mathias | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ Stolen because of weakness
High, go jugs in left. #highball #juggy FA: Emmanuel F | ||||||
Watertower Angels boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Let's hope that there are angels flying around, catch me if I fall
Crimpy highball up the left side of the boulder, on the face. FA: Michele Leone, 2016 | ||||||
{US} V1 | Angel Crawl
Up the highball on good holds on the right. FA: Michele Leone, 2 Mar 2016 | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Corner
Up the left-hand arete, bailing left before the overhanging top. FA: Emmanuel F, 2016 | ||||||
V1 | ★★★ Cracky
Up the vertical crack on the right. FA: Emmanuel F, 2016 | ||||||
Watertower Baby Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Baby slap
FA: Team | ||||||
Watertower Blasphemy Boulder | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Bodily fluids | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Act of blasphemy | ||||||
Watertower Clam | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Clammy traverse
Keep going left. #traverse FA: Emmanuel F | ||||||
Watertower Cocktail Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ No ice
FA: Emmanuel F | ||||||
V2 | ★★★ Straight up
Sit-down start, up on crimpy holds. FA: Nathan Brand, 1 Mar 2016 | ||||||
{US} V2 | On the Rocks
Sit-down start to the right of Straight Up on the little jug past the arrete. Up on crimpy holds. FA: Nathan Brand, 3 Apr 2016 |