Routes as ice in Telecom Tower

The corner to the left of Red Wall. Four/five pitches, with bolted belays for each (and then some...). The first pitch (M4) is often thinly iced, so the difficulty and protection is dependent on conditions. The second pitch follows a snow gully up a short waterfall (WI3). The third pitch is an easy snow gully. The last pitch (M3/4) follows a vague rocky crack/corner to the top of the ridge. Conditions can vary dramatically depending on the amount of ice present, especially on the first two pitches. Generally take a single set of cams (up to #3) and wires, and 2-3 ice screws. An absolute classic.

1. (30m) Up the small gully onto the ice. Belay on chains.

2. (40m) Step left from the belay onto the short ice section and up a snow gully to two short ice steps. Belay on chains.

3. (40m) Up snow to chains on the left, or build an anchor next to the gully that the RH variant of Friday's Fool goes up.

4. (45m) Up steep snow with short ice section to a belay on two bolts. From here you can walk off to the left.

5. (20m) Up the chimney with a couple of cool moves to the top of the hill.

Starts on Fridays Fool. From the base of the snow gully at the start of the third pitch head up the large obvious corner on the lefthand side. This is sustained for approximately 40m before the angle relents and 40m of easier ground leads to the ridge.

Goes right up the small gully from the top of pitch 3 of Friday's Fool.