Routes as trad in Fingal Valley

First route you come across when descending into the crag. obvious from the large doorway style box at it’s start, has some intricate gear placements at the start, and as the climbing eases the gear lessens. cool movement down low, a little bold in spots

corner crack R of Amundson

brilliant jam crack on the right side of the tier, thin hands with occasional good hands. DBB

Impressive corner crack. FC scratched into rock on right wall

Right of the bolted face called Limp Wrist is a powerful looking crack, starting as a hand-crack then getting thinner towards the top. Challenging and worthwhile.

Great climbing up the diagonal crack going left across the face from Limp Wrist. Clip the first bolt of Limp Wrist, then up into the corner below a small roof, then spectacularly left across the wall to the half-way ledge of an off-width crack, finish up crack

Classic, The first part climbs a groove recessed into the arête with a couple of finger pockets and well spaced hand holds providing exquisite climbing. Lower off from bolts.

the best looking crack third line R of the arête of the upper amphitheatre. The climb is sustained off-hand to fist crack but thins towards the top.

On the face to the right of Die Hard is a seam up to a ledge, climb the seam with a nice finger jam crux to gain the ledge. Once on the ledge pull a couple of moves through the chubby finger crack roof.

Scramble easily up the ramp to a ledge, then finish on a few nice moves up the short corner crack

Start in right leaning crack and finger traverse around to the prow, continue up finger crack to ledge, then easily up unprotected face on good holds

Up onto ledge then easily up through corner crack and out to right,

A short slab route following a thin crack up the face hardest moves are just of the ground on very fiddly nuts. Trends right following crack line to the anchors for “The Proposal”

The line above the jumar approach. Mixed, long, sustained and hard for the grade. There are two way to climb at the crux, out left to the bolts gives the route it's grade. Climbing directly up the crack is considered much closer to 25+ but much better.

The supposed polar opposite of a Velvet Morning. The prominent crack bordering the orange.

Climbs the left leaning crack from the big guano patch up onto the orange wall then head back right 5m and out to the barbarella anchor.

Start up Passchendaele then break left up thin jamb crack to lower off.

One of the best steep cracks anywhere in Australia. The first pitch is Tassie's answer to Trojan and the second is a rarely done but worthwhile 22 bolted face pitch.

1. 30m (25) Up the obvious steep crack in the middle of the cliff. Brilliant gear and moves trend gradually rightwards to finish at a DBB.

2. 20m (22) Up the face on good but slightly dirty rock.

Start up Angel Of Pain (26), then cross over Passchendaele (0.75 and 0.5 cam) and move left to gain the upper section of Legends Never Die. Super sustained with a desperate crux below the anchors on flailing arms.

Climb the thin grey crack right of Passchendaele then join it at its upper crux and anchor

Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams).

Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here.

Finger crack to lower off.

A moderate ground-up way to access the Boneyard all on Trad, mossy; but the abseil traffic has cleaned it up considerably. Starts at the rap line, just left of the nose of the original 'Boneyard Route'.

1. 30m 18. First pitch climbs the rap line / corner taking the R fork for the last 3m to the rap chain.

2. 30m 18. Traverse R for 5m (no pro, maybe anchor off the rap line!?), then straight up thin crack just around the nose. Move left to corner, then finish up mossy wall (poor pro).

The first route at Bare Rock.

A fun, mostly trad multi that extends Underestimated all the way to the Supernaut Ledge. Will make an excellent alternative to Tomorrow's Dream if you have done that a few times.

1. 25m (22) As for Underestimated to the belay.

2. 20m (16) Lovely trad pitch up the obvious right leaning crack. Good gear and fun moves the whole way. Belay at double bolts on ledge.

3. 35m (21) Hard start off ledge past bolt and key 0.4 cam then intriguing face climbing on excellent gear and passing one more bolt to double bolts on ledge.

4. 20m (18) Funky, fully bolted slab pitch to the Supernaut Ledge.

Up the flake/crack system right of Block O'Clock as for Gerry's Project, then trend left on gear following the weakness to the arete and up to anchors of Block O'Clock.

The freestanding pillar on the northern end of the cliff line. Start in the chimney on the left of the front face to gain a slab. Slab right to a steep crack and pull through this to again gain a slab. Trend left along a break to an arete and summit the pillar

100m north of the main buttress is a #3 and #4 size flake crack with an incut start. Tree and gear belay

The off-width. Apparently, "it had to be done". The climbing itself maybe even worse than the name, but you'll have to climb it to find out. Don't expect much gear.

Steep corner on R. Hard in the middle ... maybe more than 20.

Nice looking zig-zag hand crack.

A small cam is reccommended for the crux seam in the middle, and a medium size cam for the runout at the top.

Okay crack on right side of alcove. Often wet.

Burly, well-protected crack. Reminiscent of a Brown and Whillans thrutch! E1 5c.

Varied, clean corner crack of all sizes.

Mixed. Starts up Edelweiss.

Good moves up the sharp edged crack. well protected

Prominent right leaning jam crack with a couple layback moves and a strenuous crux

The best climb on the crag, up the challenging seam, With good but fiddly gear, don’t be tempted to head out to the bolts on the face to the left!

Alluring looking finger crack that is much more technical than it appears, well protected

The deeply excavated wide crack you arrive at on the track, some nice layback moves, on some larger gear, belay from tree at top.