Showing all 9 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Holyrood Main Wall | |||||
5.9 | Sunny Side Up
This route needs to be cleaned. Currently it sits under a carpet of lichen and moss. I tried to lead it once and ended up wandering a lot, straying far from the original line. Might be worth cleaning up. Protection Standard Rack | 29m | |||
5.10 X | Balls to the Wall
Description This route needs to be cleaned and is a great candidate for bolting. There are no gear placements until 40 feet up, well after the crux, from which you would take a long ground fall. The end is runout as well, with reachy, hard moves on mossy rock. Protection Your climbing ability, mostly. Or toprope it. Standard rack for the easy climbing in the middle of the route. | 29m | |||
5.8 PG13 | The Streak
Description The classic route at the crag. Unfortunately, the namesake streak has faded away. Exciting (i.e slightly runout) slabby climbing leads past 2 bolts and horizontal cracks, which have great cam, tricam or nut placements. The climbing becomes easier and better protected as you approach the top, with a memorable finish. Protection 2 bolts, standard rack from micro to 2 Camalot 2 bolt rappel anchor. Knot the ends of the rope, a 60m rope is enough to get down but it's close. FA: J. Presswood | 29m, 2 | |||
5.7 | Slippery When Wet
P1: Crux pitch. The bottom feels a bit harder than 5.7, but it quickly eases up as you get higher. Use caution going for the 3rd bolt as there are some ledges below. P2: Fun climbing on horizontal cracks. Some gear can be used to supplement the bolts in the runouts. P3: Similar to Pitch 2. Gear can supplement the bolts to keep the climber from potentially hitting the ledge. Location Central on the main wall, between "The Streak" and "You'll Understand When You Get There". Protection Each pitch has an anchor with chains for rappelling. A set of nuts and a few smaller tricams for the shallow horizontal cracks. Can get down in two rappels with a 60m rope if you rap to the anchor above "The Streak" from the third belay. FA: Len Zedel & Greg Locke | 45m, 3 | |||
5.8 | You'll Understand When You Get There
Description Squeeze past trees and shrubs (easy terrain) to get to the base of a nice double crack system. The cracks have been cleaned recently, making this route a fun and well protected choice at the crag. Protection Standard Rack | 18m | |||
5.7 PG13 | Biggie Fries
Description This almost-sport route can be led without gear, but has ground fall potential on easier terrain. Better to bring a handful of small cams. The movement is fun, and it is one of the less mossy routes at the crag, because people clean it every few years. Worth doing. Protection Draws, handful of small-med cams | 18m | |||
5.4 | ★★ Slab Crackin'
Description Climb the striking crack feature starting immediately behind the bench. The climbing is easy the whole way and the gear is excellent making this one of the best routes around for a beginner trad climber. Protection 1 bolt and gear to 2". Anchor with rappel hardware on top. | 27m, 1 | |||
5.9 | A Sea of Green
Description Very easy climbing past horizontal cracks leads to a hard crux at a bolt, and a short runout to the anchors. Falls may not be the cleanest at the crux, due to the slabby rock below. Protection Standard rack | 21m, 1 | |||
5.6 | Digging For Gold
Description Start 20 feet left of Thin Blue Line, on a small ledge next to a small stump. Climb left along a horizontal crack, go straight up to a bolt and then to the right towards two finger cracks. Follow these cracks past a bulge then up easier terrain to the anchor. Location Up a secondary trail right of Slab Crackin'. Follow this short trail to the wall, scramble up a bit of mossy terrain to the ledge where the route starts. Protection Standard rack to 3", emphasis on finger sized cams FA: David Bruneau | 30m |
Showing all 9 routes.