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Routes as trad in Lower cliffline

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Showing all 59 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Wilde Thing

Mixed gear with old carrots and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

FA: John Wilde, 1993

Trad 15m
16 King Kong

Pump up those beginners. Starts 2m L of Wilde Thing. Reach your way up through the blocks round top and up passing tree to top.

FA: Nat Nichols & Sussie Early, 1993

Trad 15m
21 Fully Loaded Man

Start 2m right of HGSA at small crack. Up past 3 BRs to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB about 19)

FA: Dale Tweedie & Daniel Webster, 2009

Trad 20m
21 High Goose Stepping Action

Mixed gear - hex bolts and a couple of cams. Has not been retro-bolted. Yet another gem that does not let up till you haul through the final bulge. Start 3m L of King Kong. Boulder up past friend to bolt runner, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this to overhang and friend #2 placement. Thin moves and a goose step (bolt) surmount the orange face before a juggy overhanging finish (FH). Two bolts on block at top for anchor. Needs bolt plates and cams.

FA: Phill Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1993

Mixed trad 18m, 3
19 Bad Luck Silverback

Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit

FA: andrew powell & Tim Maroney, 1993

Mixed trad 12m, 1
22 Bad Luck Silverback Variant

Start as for BLS. At the horizontal break at 3/4 height, traverse left along Cam break to join CBC and up via FH.

Mixed trad 14m, 2
16 Chocolate Coated Parents

The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs

Trad 12m
19 The Block That Was

Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Double ropes to lead best. DRBs at top.

Mixed trad 15m, 2
19 Texas

Up corner on new RBs. Carrots and cams for the rest of the route straight up corner through chossy roof. Despite stars in the original guide this route is pretty average.

FA: phil stallard, Andrew Powell & Michelle Stibbard, 1993

Mixed trad 20m, 1
16 I'll ask her

Start at shallow corner just left of Texas. Up to under roof then head left onto ledge and climb short corner to finish.

Mixed trad 20m, 2
18 I Wanna Be The Table

Start 3m L of IAH. Some thin reachy slab work. Up past big cam to BR. Continue up slab to ledge and straight to top. Will be quite nice if retrobolted.

FA: Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker & Andrew Powell, 1993

Mixed trad 12m, 1
17 Humping the Table

Nice slabby arete. Start 1m L of IWBTT, moving up through some balance moves into blank corner (2 BR's) to ledge, then blunt arete to top #2 Cam and #0.5 Cam. Start just to R of undercut section then up trending left past 2BR. Up corner then up arete to ledge. Needs retrobolt and anchors.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

Mixed trad 12m, 2
21 Moe

The furthest R of the three little climbs. One high bolt to clip then small friends in horizontal break at 4m. Top is loose and requires care. Belay off the concrete bollard.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

Mixed trad 6m, 1
21 Curly

2m L of Moe is a left-facing weakness on steep coloured rock. One bolt and a #3 Cam in horizontal break at 6m.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

Trad 8m
25 Larry

Beautiful rock. Up an obvious overhanging corner. A bolt to start, then a fixed hanger and if you are still worried a #3 cam will soothe the nerves.

FA: paul, 1993

Mixed trad 7m, 2
20 Oral Stretch Marks

Starts at the L end of the large overhang. 10m L of HTT. Locate the bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse L past 2 bolts then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the topp. 6 bolts and 2 cams.

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 6
20 Two Tribes

Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Starts up short corner 10m L of the large overhang. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 & #2 cams. Out an up to bolt via ramp the straight to finish on L side of block. Small cam near top.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 1
21 Thin Heat

Fine face work on ironstone blades. Start as for TT, up corner through small overlap then slightly L to top passing 2 BR's and a #2 cam.

FA: andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993

Mixed trad 18m, 2
16 River Rat

Cams and wires. The diagonal seam/weakness 1.5m L of FOW. Trend L up cracks to finish at L end of cave. Belay in back of cave. Rap off rings.

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1993

Trad 12m
21 The Big Lick

The corner/arete 3m L of Oysterland.

  1. Back at ground level a convenient bit of landscaping avoids getting your feet wet. (This has been overgrown the last few years unless someone has cleaned it up). Two bolts up a L facing corner leads the way to a large bridge of rock. Mount this and gently walk L. Easily up L side of the short orange wall (bolt), onto the big (wet) ledge. Double bolt belay.

  2. (aid if wet) Onto white block (good cam placements just above), and up into corner until you are forced R onto and around the arete. Chain belay in alcove. 6 bolts and a rack of friends.

FA: paul riviere, darren grey & matthew arnott, 1994

Mixed trad 30m, 2, 6
22 Under My Tongue

Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From Double bolt belay, move R under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Cams protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1995

Mixed trad 10m, 3
19 Honey Im Late
  1. Start 2m RIGHT of ringbolts (VD) at short crack and go left into cave to join VD for a few rings before heading back right to belay on pedestal ( finger and hand size cams needed).

  2. Traverse way right past 2 RBs and then up RBs and thread to tree.

  3. To top. It is 30 m to ground

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Trad 40m, 3
21 Honey Im Direct
  1. Start as for HIL (faded initials near short crack into cave).

  2. After pedestal belay traverse 2m right (ie not as far as HIL) and then up hanging corner (crux). More gear needed then bolts to DRB anchor. Care required with block just before top. 27m to ground

FA: andrew powell, 1993

Trad 35m, 2
16 The Damp Wagon

Starts 10m L of SOAG. Up blunt arete with some nice moves and small cams to ledge. Now up the corner to exit off R at top (flakey finish).

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Trad 12m
17 Pigmy Sex Low Down

Short but very sweet. Start as for TDW but this one takes a line off L. Small cams and wires to cave. Swing up and around L end of cave to finish.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Trad 10m
20 Squeezin' Out Sparks

Just an other very pleasant outing.. Start as for PSLD up beginning of corner for a couple of moves (wires and #1.5 cam) then slip out R onto face passing BR on your way to crack (# 2 & 3.5 cam), continue to pop out R (# 1 cam) for final moves.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Mixed trad 13m, 1
17 Pig In a Wig

A deceptive little line but good. Start as for SOS follow corner with adequate pro to finish on R side of line on block above curving crack

FA: Carl Power & Ivan Baker, 1993

Trad 13m
18 Be Still My Beating Possum

Starts up slab 6m L of PIAW on a terrace about 10m up. Great line pushing through the red centre. Look out for small furry friends. Up the slab to ledge then up orange wall to more gear (cams and nuts) to small ledge to finish. Exit with care off R.

FFA: Phil Stallard, Philleep & Ivan Baker, 1993

Trad 18m
19 666 The Beast

The superb flake 5m L of Ringtail. Start at base of corner below ringtail. It'll scare you but worth the adventure. Cams and nuts for protection. Finishes atop the precarious block at a belay/rap station.

Set: ross linsley

FA: Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere & Bruce Wells, 1993

Trad 15m
20 668 The Neighbour of the Beast

A bit desperate. Starts as for 666 then move L at 3m into the seam. Full set of cams and #4 rock. Belay station as for 666.

FA: Ross Linsley, Nigel Kennedy & Paul Riviere, 1994

Trad 15m
22 Frontline

3m L of CC. The short wall with the undercut start. One BR, U-bolt and a #1.5 cam. Belay off tree.

FFA: Paul Riviere & Ross Linsley, 1994

Mixed trad 10m, 2
18 Cornered

The short corner capped by a roof 2m L of Frontline. One BR plus a U-bolt and a #2.5 cam. Awkward belay from the tree.

FFA: Paul Riviere & Ross Linsley, 1994

Mixed trad 10m, 2
14 O

This and the following climbs start 10m off the ground on a large terrace at the base of a vertical wall of excellent rock. O starts on a ledge below R end of the Sports wall Scramble up gully and out R onto ledge below steep wall.

  1. 19m (14) Straight up wall to below roof, escape L, up and around R to belay on big ledge.

  2. 6m up small corner to top.

FFA: Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker & Kathy Merz, 1993

Trad 25m, 2
18 Trotsky's Nipples

Start as for Triangle (below) then up arete. Cams protect near top.

FFA: Phil Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1993

Mixed trad 12m, 1
11 Triangle

Start at the far R end of sport wall at the corner with black right hand wall. Up black wall then left into corner at top.

FA: Phil Stallard & Ivan Baker, 1993

Trad 10m
22 Feelin Kinda Sporty

Up past BR through juggy terrain. Mantel onto small ledge then up over roof before first U-bolt. Finish up headwall past another U-bolt and cam placement.

Start: 2m left of the 'Triangle' corner.

Mixed trad 15m, 3
18 Mega Luv Jugs

Up the juggy wall to right side of jutting block on ledge. Uneasy moves onto slab using block then exit left.

Start: As for 'Feelin Kinda Sporty'

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 2
20 Slippery Air

2m L of MLJ. 2 bolts and cams.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

Mixed trad 10m, 2
17 Marxist Breakfast

Straight up passing 2 rusty bolts and cams to ledge.

Start: On the wall at the right hand side of the cave.

FA: Phil Stallard, 1993

Mixed trad 10m, 2
Tim's Project

Tim's Project. Start 3m left of Rivers Edge. Two RBs for the hard moves and then easy finish on trad gear. Only a few cams needed.

Mixed tradProject 12m, 2
22 Finger Candy

This route commences on the far left end of the sports wall just beyond the cave and detatched monolith. Climb the wall to a bolt runner just left of the cave, bolt, then tricky move past crux. Mixed gear above and tree to belay.

FFA: Andrew Powell & Paul Riviere, 1994

Mixed trad 15m, 1
19 Huge Carpet Sale

A plus for the Box, steep slab work. Start 3m L of Square over little bulge and up fine edged section passing 2 BR's, trend slightly R through horizontals, cams to small vertical crack and on to top. Tree belay.

FFA: Phil Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1994

Mixed trad 15m, 2
19 Struggle Rug

Steeper sharper neighbour. Step on 2mts L of HCS, up edges passing 2 BR's and on, keep to the R of jutting block on the way to the top. Cams useful. Belay as for HCS.

FFA: Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard & paul

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1994

Mixed trad 13m, 2
19 Not a Pretty Face

The arete at the end of the buttress, just before THC. 2 bolts and a small cam on the way up. A few more smaller cams for the belay.

FA: paul riviere & andrew powell, 1994

Mixed trad 10m, 2
25 The Hawkesbury Connection

Starts 2m L of the chimney. Sequency moves on a vertical wall. Up to a flake at 5m then slap up to a good ledge. Continue up past easier ground to the cave. Bolt belay needs brackets. Four fixed hangers and a # 1.5 cam.

FFA: paul, 1993

Mixed trad 12m, 4
25 The Hawkesbury Desideratum

Finishes off what THC started. From the big scoop at the 4th hanger, climb leftwards past 2 more fixed hangers up to double U bolt belay.

FFA: paul, 1994

Mixed trad 16m, 6
23 Crack 'n' Up

5m L of THC is an attractive vertical crack. Up this with wires and cams for 8mts before your first ring bolt. Crux. up to horizontal break ( a cam if you are worried) tending L to another ring bolt. Continue L to a short crack system (another cam or wire) then straight up passing two more rings. Double ring bolt anchor. rebolted 2016

Set: paul, 1993

FFA: paul & john wilde, 1993

Mixed trad 30m, 7
19 Teddy

The crack behind two blackboy bushes 7m L of Crack'n Up. Climb the crack up to bolt runner and move R to climb another short crack. Continue straight up passing a bolt to a large ledge. Climb the corner crack and move R onto the face with a bolt to protect. Tree belay. 3 bolts (need brackets), cams, wires.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

Mixed trad 25m, 3
19 I'd Rather Be Fishing

The corner 5m L of Teddy. Up R facing corner past 2 bolts and a #3 cam to an alcove. Pull through centre of roof onto another ledge next to small but solid angophora (sling). Straight up wall past another 3 bolt runners and cams.

FFA: paul, ross linsley & bruce wells, 1993

Mixed trad 30m, 5
22 Smells of Excess

Hard moves up a vertical face. A couple of bolts and fixed hangers.

FFA: Michael Law, 1994

Mixed trad 25m, 3
22 Absolutely Fab

Tackles the thin wall L of FHS. Hard to get off ground followed by some dicey hold above horizontal break. Continue straight up past easier country using mixed gear and belay from tree.

FA: ross linsley & paul, 1994

Trad 25m
19 Hooked On Rock

Up the shallow corner to a bolt, then up the wall/slab passing 2 fixed runners. Chain belay.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

Trad 20m
21 Strung Up

The vertical crack 4m L of HOR. Up the crack for 10m, then move up R to a ledge and pad it up past a bolt. Rack of cams and nuts. Shares chain belay with HOR.

FFA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

Trad 20m
22 Chips and Chicken Salt

The last climb on Crack'n up Wall. 6 U-bolts plus a few medium cams will bring you safely to a rap anchor.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1995

Mixed trad 15m, 6
20 Fffffit

The arete. Mixed gear with 2 bolts at the top.

FFA: phil stallard & andrew powell, 1993

Mixed trad 21m, 2
21 Mr Whip Me

Not all things get hard, but some do!. Start as for Phvvvit at the base of the corner, throw a large nut into the crack on the wall and away you go. Blast up the middle of the wall passing #3 cam to a bolt runner then to a crack and #4 cam. Hang out to the R, grab the arete and up this to small ledge passing 2 bolt runners to the top.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Mixed trad 23m, 3
17 Phvvvit

Bill and Ben had to do a lot of bucket and spade work to unearth this class line. Start under corner up off the end of the main wall. Straight up this corner to small roof then traverse out R with air and care of hollow sounding flake. Up to small stance. Now up and out L to top through some loose country.

FFA: phil stallard & andrew powell, 1993

Trad 23m
20 La La Land

Just bloody great. Start 5m L of Phvvvit and slink up the black wall till you hit the orange. Then step R a metre or so and up to small roof (cams and wires thru this section) Grab a magic undercling, clip the fixed hanger and head up final wall passing a #4 cam, bolt runner and #2 cam to the top.

FA: andrew powell, phil stallard & paul, 1993

Mixed trad 23m, 2
22 Up the End

Hidden away and almost missed, its 25m up and over the rise L of LLL. Crimp your way up compact wall on user friendly holds (not), passing 2 bolt runners to horizontal break (#3 cam). Now up to hold and over bulge, bolt runner on high crimps.

FFA: andrew powell, paul riviere & ross linsley, 1994

Mixed trad 10m, 3

Showing all 59 routes.

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