Routes as trad in Head Games Gully

Hard, thin start which is (just about) protected by some low gear, leads to much easier moves. Potential for ground falls and top out is loose. Make sure you back up the tree belay with trad gear.

Climbs the prominent ridge on the large protruding buttress right on the beach. The best climbing and best protection is had by starting straight up the steep cracks on the far left of the ridge. Easier, less protected options further right. Peters out to an extremely easy and scenic scramble. Tree belay.

Climbs a loose corner beside a thin crack. Protection is mostly good, but the choss is ubiquitous. Be careful. Choosing to lead this route will make you ask questions of yourself. Tree belay far back from ledge.