Routes as trad in Thunder Head

Despite point perps affinity with exposure, this surely has to rank among the most wild. A rap in climb out a-fair that is every bit terrifying as it is genuinely great climbing, good gear and holds appearing from thin air. Rap down 15m off the most overhung point you can find (a couple long cracks in the #1-0.5 range provide anchors, think dropping a rock that will hit nothing for the point), to a nice ledge (get some swing going to land on it) with a series of chossy vertical cracks leading skyward (these are actually waiting for an FA but this is not what Desert Raven climbs)... Oh no, head up a couple meters before traversing hard left over space on the overhung and pocketed wall that doesn't seem to have any holds or gear up high. Save a crucial #3 for the last pocket and mantle up onto the slab moves at the very top of the arette to a small ledge where you can sling an amazing thread. Step a hard right and finish up the last 3m of splitter fist jams directly above your belayer, topping out next to your rap line. A single rack of cams from 0.3-#4 and a 120cm sling for the thread is all thats required.

The big left leaning, right facing flake. Takes bomber gear. Mostly super easy, just a little tricky getting over true rooflet up high

Has a move and a RB over the bulge about half way up the wall. Semi hanging belay above the cave.

Up right hand corner

Start 1 meter left of the corner. Up wall on large pockets.

Rap from a single carrot (backup with any of the Army RBs that are all over the place here) to semi hanging belay above the big roof. Thin and sustained. Carrots and maybe a No3. Camalot in the easy section (or just run it out)

Left most climb on VB Slab. Rap to massive ledge to RB and carrot belay. Up right of vertical seem. Take care clipping the 2nd carrot.

Can be used as an escape route for 'Passion Pop'

Abseil off rings where shrubs suddenly come close to cliff. Must be close to a nice cold fear, but now sports bolts though a few cams needed to #3.

Shorter route on the right end of the slab, with a hanging belay above the cave.

Belay off 2RB right down at lip of big roof, not the single RB at the small ledge. From the belay, up past a couple of wires to a carrot, mantle up on to the ledge and continue up the nice wall. Bring some wires for the start and a few medium cams for the rest or run it out on carrots.

Far left route starting off small ledge. Shares first few bolts with Mates. Mostly carrots, but bring some cams.

The escape route for 'Tequila Slammer' is harder than expected! Climbs up corner and into chimney slot at top. The exit move is exciting.

Start as for twist top but follow the corner all the way up

An easier alternative trad start up shallow left facing flake crack 2m left of the 'face start'. Belay off single RB.

A long climb with variety! Find top of Pinochio - fix rope and rap 25m down to vegetated ledge with single bolt anchor below orange face sprouting ringbolts. Up gorgeous orange face on slopers, through a juggy bulge then left out rooflet on gnarly pockets and onto grey slab (bolts end here). Finish up reachy horizontal features and crimps with bomber cam slots just left of Pinochio.

The right most route utilizing the flake start of East Coast Choppers. Halfway up the flake traverse right onto face (ring) and up face above past a couple of rings and lots of bomber medium cam slots. Bring some larger cams for the giant finish pockets or just run it out.

Technical thought provoking crimping on slightly slabby rock. Climb the start layback flake of Reel Men then blast directly up the wall above, with a slight right trend. Finishes up easy but hard to protect giant pockets. Two finger sized cams, plus single set of cams from hand to fist supplement the spaced bolts.

Best of the routes on this section of wall, with excellent slabby crimping on bomber rock. It's the middle line starting as for Reel Men and finishing up the juggy central groove directly below the rap rings. Single set of cams/wires to fist size supplements the bolts.

The first three routes share the same start - a left facing layback flake above an undercut roof. This route takes the left line, splitting after the 2nd bolt and climbing a subtle right facing flake in the middle and jumbo pockets at the end. It's a mixed route so take a couple of wires for the start, some medium cams and a long sling for excellent thread in the jumbo pockets in the last section.

Easy trad corner starting from triangular ledge about 10m down. Was once the location of the dodgy fishos descent ropes!

Up from the 2RB belay past a few carrots and then trad up the crack past another carrot towards the top.

Shared belay ledge as for 'Mates' The right route off the belay with some thin moves about halfway up the wall.

Follow the bolt line (take brackets), supplementing with small & medium cams through the first half of the climb

A mixed route requiring big cams. Start at major left facing wide corner 5m right of cave. Up this easy corner to large ledge at 10m then climb wall above past two RBs and a manky FH to trad protected top (more big cams). This route may actually not be Blue Stocking, but another mystery unrecorded route.

Obvious overhung corner crack, bottom seeps a little after rain.

A fine sustained wall route. Not as direct as the print guide makes out - unless you add several grades. Start over the bulge just left of the bolted route, then up the face on good horizontals to major horizontal break. Traverse left across this for 2m then up the face, then left again to join into Brain for a move then back right and finish up big sandy pockets. Double ropes useful. Protection is good but spaced. Bring cams to size #4.

Starts 1m right of Fab, at furthest right you can safely stand on the chossy ledge. Rap in and pre-place wire about 4m up the route as your first runner or stick clip first bolt on Fab if you really feel the fear. Boulder the undercut start, crux, then wander up wall with spaced but good trad gear. Vital micro cams (black/blue Alien size) about midway up the route. Gear to #3 Camalot.

One of the most popular routes on the wall, mainly because it's mostly bolts! Don't be too relaxed though, the bolts are spaced and you need a spot of trad in the middle section (small cams). The moves and rock are fab though. Starts at right end of wall at undercut section. Stickclip first bolt or get a good spot.

The best and most popular route on Thunderbird Wall. Exposure, good bolts and lovely polished orange rock all the way. Starts at right end of wall as for "Fab" then traverse right (crossing Aquamarina) and up large heucos. Mostly bolts but a light trad rack is needed.

The right arete of the main wall, starting on ledge system 10m below the main ledge. One bolt and trad.

Rap into high ledge (anchor off rap rope). This route climbs the left trending crack line off the left.

Short crack splitting the wall just left of the corner. Seeps badly down low after heavy rain.

Up Deep Sea Mullet for 8m then traverse left onto the sandy pocketed face.

The short dark stemming corner on the left end of Thunderbird Wall, starting on high vegetated ledge. A little fiddly to protect. Seeps after heavy rain.

At the left end of the main wall, and just right of the dark corner is a seam crack. This route climbs the face just right of the crack. Protection is quite spaced and not great - be warned. Grade is probably a bit of a sandbag as well.

The pocketed grey face on the right edge of the higher vegetated ledge. The climb wanders around in a bid to find protection and holds. Be careful - trad gear is spaced. Double ropes or long slings useful.