Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Molonglo River Dwarf Rock | |||||
V1 | ★★ Drunk Dwarf
The only decent boulder in the area, located 20 meters to the right of the main crag. Start left on the face then straight up the middle. | 3m | |||
Cooleman Ridge Bouldering Niblo Below Fence | |||||
V2 | #3
Stand start then climb up and top out. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ The Knife Edge
Straight up the most overhung part of the boulder, with no real footing to get you started. Hugely shouldery, height dependent as well but essentially a fairly short problem (shorter people can probably add 1-2 grades and will probably need to toe-hook the other side of the boulder just to get started on very poor slopers). FA: Unknown, 2012 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ #4
Bring a mat and a spotter - big sharp rock right in the fall zone. While this climb is quite short, it's also almost devoid of anywhere to place your feet. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ #5
Direct up the arete off the small flake. Balancy and thin with a deadpoint required. Mat and spotter mandatory if you like your back. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ #6
Up past the large flake and mantle out on top. A few variants, all roughly V1. | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Purple patch
Thin crimpy and short direct line on face to right of the #6 large flake | 3m | |||
V6 | ★ Icecream traverse
Open project - traverse the obvious ridge of the icecream boulder near to #6 - all the way! Crux is the section facing to the road. Has been attempted many times, including by a foreign climber doing 8b on rope! If you send it, please grade it. Quite a lot of the rock seems loose/hollow - use caution. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Icecream Pleez?
From front of the icecream traverse boulder, up and left from a stand start, top out to the left. Straight up a fair bit harder. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Bring Bert Back
Straight up the front of the Icecream Boulder. Try not to rip off the crucial loose rubble on the right shoulder of the bottom block. FFA: B Bertson | 4m | |||
V7 | ★ #7 arete variant
Bring spotters and mats and be prepared to fall. A few reasonable handholds, but expect to be 8 feet up falling onto hard packed earth should you not have eaten the wheaties to get yourself ready for this. Insecure, scary, dangerous. You have been warned. | 6m | |||
V2 | ★ #7
Variation of number 6. The arete is the definitive climb in the CCA guide. V7 for the arete, V2 to join up with no. 6. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ The King of Cooleman
Direct to route #7 arete variant. Stand start using left hand side pull beneath middle of roof. Climb roof/arete and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 4 Sep 2015 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★ #8
Straight up using the poor feet and the incut at chest height, incut higher up and the bulge. A few ways to do it but they're all mean. | 5m | |||
V8 | ★ #8 arete
Straight up the arete, topping out straight up through the seam. Hard! | 6m | |||
V8 | #9
One chipped hold, strenuous moves on tiny holds. Getting feet onto the rock is the crux - probably a 1-2 move problem, but hard ones nonetheless. Grade to be confirmed. | 5m | |||
V6 | ★ #9A
Sit start from low jug, climb up trending rightwards and top out. | 3m | |||
V4 | #9B
Sit start from low jug, climb up trending leftwards and top out. | 3m | |||
V3 | SLSS
Before the fence, there's a group of boulders to the right. Sit start on the first 'face' climbable boulder, off two sidepulls and up. Strenuous, short, and massively contrived. Getting feet set is very, very tough. | 2m | |||
Cooleman Ridge Bouldering Niblo Over the fence | |||||
V1 | #10
Forget looking for holds - trust the friction, Luke. Sit start. | 2m | |||
V0 | #11
Friction climb. Very slabby. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ #12 (squat start)
For anyone feeling strong - needs a sit added. Round the corner from #13, the arete climb. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Furking Leer
A one-hand pull up at the start throwing to sidepulls and small incuts for the feet. Once you stand up over the bulge, everything is easy sailing. FA: Who knows, 2011 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ #13
Sit start up the arete. Burly. Round the corner of the boulder from #12. Top out directly from the undercut side - don't pull around onto the slab. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Acid Traverse
Traverse the whole boulder (spraypainted boulder, home to The Dish and #s 14-18). Strenuous crimping/balance section, easy to fall off. FFA: | 1m | |||
V5 | ★★ Acid Reverse
Anticlockwise traverse of the acid boulder | ||||
V0 | ★ #14
Easiest one on the rock. Ladder-like. | 4m | |||
V0 | #15
Somewhat forgettable with no really hard moves. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Between #15 and #16
In the corner between #15 and #16. Easy moves to the top | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ #16
Left of the dish - difficult to place feet until you get to the bucket. | 4m | |||
V1/2 | ★ The Dish (between #16 & #17)
Lovely compression climb just left of #17. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ #17
Straight up the acid traverse boulder on tiny crimps with a slopey as crap dish to help you along. May want to lose 5 kilos before hopping on it! V4 with the gaston, probably closer to V5 if you throw straight from the chipped incut crimps to the hueco. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ 17 RH variant
From a stand start, head leftwards and up past a glory incut at head height to the hueco then up. | 4m | |||
V4 | SS RH variant to 17
Sit start down low, then up as for the RH variant of #17. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ #18
Not to be confused with #14, the descent. Round the corner a little - can be climbed as an eliminate, upping the grade. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Merge & Split
Sit start on jug. Traverse left round the corner into a sloper and undercling. Go straight up on the face for a crimp and sloper finish FA: Psalms Chia, 3 Feb 2023 | ||||
V3 | ★ #19
Sit start. A large amount of rock has broken off on the left side. There is another large piece that is ready to go at any moment, but shouldn't affect the difficulty. Grade depends on whether you use the kneebar. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ #20
Sit start at right side of the face, then up arete to top out. | 3m | |||
V2 | #21a
Sit start, at the end of the boulder sharing #21. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ #22
Lovely heel hook in this climb. Sit start. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Arete left of #22 (Sit Start)
Around the corner from #22. Tricky start. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ #23
Climb or dyno, either works. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ 23 arete
Sit-start up the arete using the protruding block. Moving around to the other side, there's a truly lovely one handed layback possible. Otherwise, there's face holds. | 3m | |||
V0 | #24
Go from the bottom to the top. Layback, climb the face, do what you will really. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ #25
On the boulder off to the left and downhill a bit from the acid traverse boulder. If you look closely you can still see the number written on the boulder where the climb starts. | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★ Right of #25 (Sit Start)
Technical and balancy sit start. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ #26
Sit start from the crimps low down to the incut then straight up. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Between #26 and #27
Sit start (?) between #26 and #27. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ #27
Sit start. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Bilby
On the wall facing up the hill. FA: Marc Wigzell, 6 Jul 2018 Set: Marc Wigzell, 6 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ #28
A stretchy climb - crux is the start. | 4m | |||
V0 | #29
Slabby and more scary than tough. Don't be fooled by the photos - it's quite tall! | 5m | |||
V1 | Dishysoisse
Photo to be added sometime soon. Lowball to the extreme, but goes on slopers which makes it almost worthwhile. FA: David Nott, 2011 | 2m | |||
Cooleman Ridge Bouldering V8 Traverse | |||||
V0- | #30
A nice warm-up. | 3m | |||
V0 | #31
There are several variations along that side of the boulder, all around V0. | 3m | |||
V0 | Precarious
Left of #32, start at left side (getting on is the crux) and head on up. If you go too far right, you're headed into Brown Trouser territory! | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Brown Trouser Time
Left of #32 and a right-side variant of Precarious, direct up the face using the ridge is a heinously crimpy climb going at around V4. Heel hook seems to be required. Named for one of the would-be ascencionists, who on the day before had a large curry. FA: | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ #32
| 4m | |||
V3 | #33
| 4m | |||
V1 | #34
| 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ Cassius
Traverse either way - crux is middle section. | 5m | |||
V3 | The Sheep
Sit start from low rail, climb straight up and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 22 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | #36
Fairly standard lowball. | 3m | |||
V6 | The Wolf
Sit start from low rail, climb up trending leftwards and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 19 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Fairly Standard Lowball
Sit start from low rail, climb up trending rightwards and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 27 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ One Of These Days
Start as for Fairly Standard Lowball and after the crux moves of this climb traverse right as for Cassius. Consistently hard moves until you hit the glory jug. FA: Nick White, 4 Jul 2021 | 5m | |||
V2 | #37
Tricksome and fiddly. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Dynamic Lifter
FA: 2009 | ||||
Cooleman Ridge Bouldering Split Cherry | |||||
V5 | ★ #38
Sit start. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ #38A
Sit start, climb arete and top out. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ #39
Up the side of the split cherry. | 2m | |||
V0+ | Cherry Pip
Around the other side of the split cherry (#38). | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Unnamed problem
Sit start, around the back end of a boulder that looks like a split cherry, but is not the split cherry. Nicely compressive and balancy, but only a move or two in it. | 2m | |||
V0+ | Distillation
Opposite side of the boulder to 'Unnamed problem'. Sit start eliminate - do not go left, keep to the blunt arete. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ #40
Sit start traverse, boulder close to the split cherry. | ||||
V0 | Left Arete
Sit start from base of arete, climb up trending rightwards and top out. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Raw Beauty
Sit start from incut edge and undercling at base of rounded bulge. Climb straight up and top out. FA: Bevan Ashby, 27 Jun 2015 | 3m | |||
V5/6 | Raw Beauty RHV
Sit start right of Raw Beauty and throw to the incut or alternatively, use thumb press to progress. Need a big reach. | 4m | |||
V0 | Easy Leap
Dyno variant of Cream. Place feet, jump. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Cream of Some Young Climb
Straight up just left of the crack. Standing start. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Musashi
Up the rock directly right of the crack. Standing start. Crux hold is a nice sloper. Very tensiony. Be careful of the blank topout. Slap up the arete if you wish but avoid getting into the crack. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 4m | |||
V2/3 | ★ Mosquito Traverse
Traverse left from about 1 metre right of #41 (shares a start with #41 LH variant), around to the big crack and up. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ #41
Sit or stand makes little difference. Directly up goes at a harder grade with some compression moves. Topout is BLANK - be careful. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Full Traverse
Start as for #41. Full traverse of boulder. | 10m | |||
V2 | #41 LH variant
Direct up the boulder starting about a metre left of #41, sharing a start with the mosquito traverse. Topout is dangerously blank - you have been warned. | 4m | |||
V4 | #41 LH variant sit
Sit start, climb up and top out. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Hug like harambe
Sit start with left hand on vague arete and right hand on far sloper. Slap your way up into easy top out. Harder if you're short FA: James Smith FA: 26 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V2 | #42
Not a hugely difficult climb for the grade! | ||||
V1 | ★ #43
Boulder right near number 41/42, under the shade of the tree. Straight up the arete from a sit-start. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Spacewalk
Sit start as for boulder #43, traverse out right, using anything reachable, topping out on the opposite side of the boulder. | 2m | |||
Cooleman Ridge Bouldering Sun Blocks | |||||
V3 | ★ #45
Sit start the arete. Crimpy. | 2m | |||
V7 | ★ Blind Man
Hard sit start to a jump or very high step in a poor incut off a nasty and very sharp right hand crimp. Hold it and top out. | 3m | |||
V4 | #46
At the far side of the boulder, slab your way up through tenuous holds. | 3m | |||
V5 | #47
Pure slab, very tenuous. Follow the tiny seam upwards. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Stevie
Similar to Ray, this problem can be desperate or feel deceptively easy depending how you approach it - go straight up, do not deviate. Sit start doesn't change the grade much but add 1 if you go straight over without using the crack. | 3m | |||
V5 | Ray
A fairly odd problem. Nothing for feet - and don't use the rest boulder right behind it! Very burly. A heel hook may help you. From a sit. Go around or straight over. | 3m | |||
V3 | #48
Around the corner from the best crack climb on the Ridge, this is yet another slabby semi-highball. | ||||
V3 | ★ #49
Nearly vertical slab. The blunt arete. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ #50
Vertical slab! Enough holds on top - just. If you're brave you'll mantel it. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ #51
One of the taller problems on the Ridge, this is a lovely crack, and great for a bit of practice if you're a burgeoning crack fiend. | 5m |