Showing all 7 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
23 | ★★★ Subliminated
Slightly harder (especially if you are short) and even more exposed version of the original Subliminal. Maybe even better than the original?
FA: Heath Black, Wade Stewart & aaron jones, 3 Apr 2016 | 110m | |||
23 | ★★★ Subliminal
It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 60m rope (minimum!) & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.
If you have a short rope or even shorter endurance you can split the mega second pitch in two parts by belaying off to the right as for the 26s. FA: Neil Monteith, Will Monks & Jason Lammers, 2011 | 92m, 3, 33 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sabbatical
A long, sustained pitch of varied face climbing on inspiring rock. So many pockets! Bring 20 quickdraws, at least 3 of which should be long runners. Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined into a MEGA 65m pitch (rope management crucial! 29 quickdraws required, 5 of them should be long runners). P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the L path where the bolt lines split (Sojourn goes R) into long rising traverse across intermittent horizontal flakes and pockets, then up to big horizontal. Step left and up past a hard move, then back right and more directly up past sustained thin climbing. At 19th bolt, step R and belay in the cave (as for Sojourn). 20 bolts. P2 - 25m (22) - Step back L from belay, and up to 2nd bolt. Hard move past this to big horizontal, clip 1 more bolt, then truck left to rejoin Subliminal P2. Finish up this to belay. 9 Bolts. P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3. Set: Paul Frothy Thomson, 20 Sep 2016 FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Glen Thomson, 28 Sep 2016 | 80m, 3, 20 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sojourn
A mega 40m pitch of sustained steep face climbing on stunning rock. Bring 18 draws, 2 of them long runners. Might be hard at the grade! P1 - 40m (26) - Start from the bottom belay of Castaway. Up trending left to cross Subliminal P1 (long runner) and continue directly up. Take the R path where the bolt lines split (Sabbatical goes L) into hard moves past glued flake to break and rest, then more hard moves, slightly right, then more directly left past steep right-facing flake. One more thin crux, then steeply up trending left to belay in cave. P2 - 25m (22) - Sabbatical pitch 2. P3 - 15m (14) - Subliminal pitch 3. Set: Paul Frothy Thomson, 6 Dec 2015 FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, 25 Oct 2016 | 80m, 3, 18 | |||
25 | ★★ Swansong
A great thin, mostly slabby pitch in its own right, which would probably be popular at any other crag... But surrounded by the elite climbs of the Sublime Point East face, this is merely a 2 star route. Start from the Castaway belay. Head slightly right and up (crossing Subliminal P1). Continue up via very thin technical moves which get progressively harder all the way to the belay. If climbing out via Castaway, its possible to head directly right from the belay for 7m (with exhilarating climbing) past 2 additional bolts to join the belay at the top of Castaway P1. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson & Heath Black, 30 Oct 2016 | 25m, 10 | |||
21 | ★★ Castaway
Intriguing multi-pitch winding up the right side of the wall. First pitch is a real winner with fantastic exposure and great rock, second is a bit weird, 3rd is an arête jugfest and last pitch is a jungle bashing adventure. One single 60m rope (no shorter) and 15 draws will suffice. A few long runners for pitch 2 are useful. This route is not suitable for a weak second as it traverses and is overhung - bring prussics.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jason Lammers, 2011 | 65m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Unconscious Corner
Easier direct start to Castaway. Gorgeous orange rock. Set: Jason Lammers FA: Gene, 2 Jan 2016 | 20m, 10 |
Showing all 7 routes.