Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | |||||
5.6 | Le choke
FFA: Jack Faber, Aug 2021 | 40m | |||
5.5 | La Toutoune
FFA: Bryan Girard & Christian Levesques, 2022 | 45m | |||
5.7 | Crève Faim
FFA: Jack Faber, Aug 2021 | 35m | |||
5.10a PG | Y fait faim
FFA: Jack Faber, Aug 2021 | 60m | |||
5.7 | La griffe
FFA: Matteo Arnaldi & Jack Faber, Aug 2021 | 45m | |||
5.6 | Les jumelles
Most often climbed as two pitches, though it is possible to make it in a long 70m pitch.
Descent There is an intermediate anchor straight down if you don't have double ropes. FFA: Bryan Girard & Christian Levesques, 1 Jul 2020 | 70m, 2 | |||
5.6 | Breezer
FFA: Matteo Arnaldi & Jack Faber, Aug 2021 | 61m | |||
Mont Eudore-Fortin Secteur de Droite | |||||
5.9 | Lucky Seven
FA: Christian Lévesque & Bryan Girard | 200m | |||
5.8 | Dora l'exploratrice
Mostly 5.5 with a few 5.6 and 5.7 moves and a single 5.8 sequence. Often climbed in 5 pitches. As the name states, it's adventure time! The base of the climb is quite hard to find in the summer because the vegetation is quite dense at the bottom of the cliff. The line is vague and I doubt that parties who've climbed here followed the exact same line. You want to start climbing on a slab with dome-style features, making your way up towards the obvious left-leaning dihedral cutting through the whole cliff. You should reach the dihedral about mid-way up the cliff. Once you reach the dihedral, you'll be climbing on the left wall, away from the actual dihedral many times and always coming back to it. Many variants exist. Descent Rappel the route. There isn't an established line there is a rappel station on a pine tree in the gully that follows the dihedral. From there, it is possible to get down in 4 long (60m) rappels using clean birch trees. It would most probably be possible to reach the trail that leads to the summit of Edouard-Fortin and hike back down. This would NOT go back to the base. FA: Christian Lévesque & Bryan Girard | 250m | |||
5.8 | 40 prinptemps
FA: Christian Lévesque & Bryan Girard | ||||
le Dôme épaule gauche | |||||
5.6 | ★★ L'initiation
1
5.6
2
5.5
3
5.4
4
5.4
5
5.4
6
5.4
7
5.6
8
5.5
9
5.5
10
5.4
The first climb done on le Dome.
Climbing
Descent If you need to bail on this climb, there are rappel anchors every 30m so you can make it down with a single 60m rope. It is not recommended to rappel the route if you make it to the top tough since there are often many parties on this climb. You should instead walk leftwards to gain the descent trail back down to the road. Sidenote: If you're faster than other parties on this climb, you can easily pass them without being in their way by literally climbing 5m left or right of them at almost any point. Also plan on linking pitches, it's worth it! 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 are a rope stretchers / few moves of simul (70m rope), 7-8 and 9-10 are easily linked with a 60m FA: Xavis, Garneau & Francois Xavier Garneau, 1970 | 210m, 10 | |||
5.4 | La Renaissance
FA: F. X. Garneau, 1973 | 200m | |||
le Dôme Tour de controle | |||||
5.6 | Bioinorganique
| 150m | |||
5.6 | ★★ Dôme Deluxe
Start at the trail from Le Dome parking lot and take every left turn. Once you reach the cliff, walk left along it until the trail ends. This is the left-most climb in this sector. This is a traversing route that angles upwards and left, ending at the anchors for l'Initiation. Walk off using the descent trail for l'Initiation. All gear anchors, except for the l'Initiation anchor at the top of pitch four. | 200m, 4 | |||
5.10 | Candide
| 150m | |||
5.6 | La Moustique
FA: Pierre Pilon & Stephan Frick, 1973 | 200m | |||
5.9 | Bronco
FA: Gaetan Martineau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1979 | 170m | |||
5.7 R | Tour de control
FA: R. Richard, Pierre Pilon & Anita Petitclerc, 1971 | 200m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Passerelle
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.3
4
5.6
5
5.8
Probably the most climbed out of all the lines on this wall, yet you'll rarely see a soul besides your party, if not for the occasional shout coming for the next sector.
Descent options
Note: For the first two options, using the "Tache Blanche" trail to return to the parking lot is much easier. Protection Standard rack up to BD#3 FA: Gaetan Martineau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1979 | 170m, 5 | |||
5.9 A1 | Croissant de lune
FA: Jacques Lamontagne & Hugo Drouin, 2015 | ||||
5.9 | Rocky
FA: Normand Lapierre & Marc Beauregard, 1977 | 170m | |||
5.9 | Traction avant
FA: Claude Berube & Dave Cochrane, 1977 | 170m | |||
le Dôme Tache blanche | |||||
5.5 | Isabel
FA: J.C. Trepanier & Normand Tremblay, 1977 | 120m | |||
5.7 PG | Variante d'Isabel
| 120m | |||
5.6 G | ★★★ La Granuleuse
An excellent climb and a great introduction to the cliff. Comfortable bolted belays at each stage, and an easy rappel descent. Anchors were rebooted in 2023. Start on a small bushy ledge below a gap in the tree ledge above, or friction up to this ledge (5.8+ unprotected slab moves, unless you grab some shrubbery.)
FA: Martin Goudreau, 1977 | 170m, 4, 1 | |||
5.7 PG | ★★ Onglee
FA: Jean-Pierre Cadot & Pierre Desautels, 1972 | 160m | |||
5.7 G | ★★ Voie de Rappel
Goes up an obvious crack that starts in the slabs about 5m above the base.
| 150m, 3 | |||
5.10a PG13/R | Temps de Cure
1
5.10a
2
5.9 PG13/R
3
5.8
4
5.7
One of the most recent additions to the Dôme's sea of texture slab climbing.
Descent
FFA: P.A. Paquet & Jacques Lamontagne, 2020 | 210m, 4 | |||
5.10 PG | ★★★ Tache blanche
FA: Regis RIchard, Jacques Lamontagne & F.X. Garneau, 1975 | 140m, 3 | |||
5.9 X | Variante du capitaine
FA: Claude Berube & Louis Babin, 1981 | 80m | |||
5.7 PG | ★★ Voie d'evitement
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.5 PG
Start over some blocky ledges to a pair of obvious parallel cracks that head up and left.
Rappel down and slightly (climber's) left to a bolted anchor in the middle of the face. From there, again down and left to the anchor at the top of P1 of Voie de rappel. FA: Jacques Lemay & Claude Lavallee, 1972 | 120m, 3 | |||
5.8 PG | ★★ Au bouleau mon homme
FA: Alain Simard, 2010 | 25m | |||
5.10a G | Jeu du gear
Follow a thin crack up and left to a bolt, then continue up and left to the trees. FA: Alain Simard, 2011 | 25m, 1 | |||
5.8 PG | Snowmobile
Starts right, heads left with several traverses to eventually finish on "Voie de Rappel". FA: Francois-Guy Thivierge & F. Jacqueline, 1985 | 200m | |||
5.8 G | ★ Patinoire
This climb starts at the top of the bushes right of "Voie d'evitement".
Sidenote: The last pitch is not often climbed even though the first few moves are awesome. Making is through the choss and the trees is a pain. Descent: Rappel down towards the start of "Voie d'evitement" | 150m, 3 | |||
5.10c | Crazy Carpet
Scramble to the start of "Patinoire". From there, climb straight up and follow the bolts to the left to reach the first anchor of "Patinoire". Good luck! Bolted but some might find it a little runout where good pro would go. Descend by rappeling down to first pitch of "voie d'évitemnent" then to the ground. FA: Claude Gélinas & Marc-André Dussault, 24 Jun 2019 | 35m | |||
5.8 | ★ L'attente
From the start of "Patinoire", climb up the first few bolts of "Crazy Carpet" then (where it veers left) you have to options:
Descent: Rappel down the route on the trees. FFA: Alain Simard, 2010 | 35m, 3 | |||
5.7 G | ★★★ Gaston Boston
The obvious crack in the area. | 40m | |||
5.10a PG | Perdu dans l'espace
FA: Bernard Landry & Stephane Lapiere, 1989 | 40m | |||
5.11d PG | Nouvelle Vague
1
5.10a
2
5.11d PG
FA: Francois Roy & Sylvain Malchelosse, 1986 | 60m, 2 | |||
5.8 PG | Venus
| 20m | |||
5.9 PG | Maree Montante
FA: Eric Tremblay & Alain Simard, 2010 | 15m | |||
5.12b PG | Raz de Maree
FA: Francois Roy & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 15m | |||
le Dôme Wet Dreams | |||||
5.7 | Day Dreams
FA: F.X. Garneau & R. Richard, 1985 | 180m | |||
5.9 PG | ★★★ Wet Dreams
1
5.7
2
5.8
3
5.9 PG
The obvious hand-crack in the sector, left of an obvious low dihedral. 2 long pitches of excellent 5.7 climbing, then a short, messy, 5.9 pitch to a bolted rappel anchor. Climbing
It might be possible to climb the corner (minimal protection, its left side, or to avoid the roof altogether by going around to the right at the boulder. (Update required) Originally, P1 was climbed to the dirt ledge, P2 and P3 were climbed as one pitch using careful rope drag management. Descent Two 60m+ ropes are required.
60m ropes: Also probably possible to rappel to the ground but available information proposes to do a short rappel to the bolted anchor, followed by a full-length rappel to the ground. (Please update) FA: Luc Martin, 1984 | 110m, 3 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Le diedral
| 180m | |||
5.10b PG | Point G
FA: Alain Simard, 2010 | 35m | |||
5.9 PG | Chapiteau
FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2012 | 35m | |||
5.6 G | Choupette
FA: Alain Simard & Dominique Lavallee, 2014 | 130m, 3 | |||
5.6 G | Frimousse
FA: Alain Simard & Dan Tremblay, 2011 | 130m, 3 | |||
5.10d PG | Torteuils ninja
| 150m | |||
5.5 | Unknown easy route
Slightly harder first move leading to a decently protected low angle crack. | 15m | |||
5.4 G | ★ La petite ecole
FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2011 | 15m | |||
5.7 G | Terrasse a Lino
FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2011 | 15m | |||
5.6 | 5 a 7
FA: Alain Simard & Eric Tremblay, 2011 | 65m, 2 | |||
le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | |||||
5.11d | Jeux sans frontieres
FA: Pavel Marek & Francois Roy, 1987 | 25m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Gruyere
FA: Alain Henault, 1980 | 22m | |||
5.11d PG | Air Voyageur
FA: Pavel Marek & Francois Roy, 1987 | 23m | |||
5.7 G | ★★ Derobade
Large dihedral. | 25m | |||
5.7 | Zone Z G
FA: Sylvain Malchelosse & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 25m | |||
5.9 | Araignee du soir, espoir
FA: Sylvain Malchelosse & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 20m | |||
5.9 PG | ★★ La vache folle
FA: Benoit Dubois & Alain Simard, 2014 | 28m | |||
5.10c G | ★★ King Can
FA: Francois Roy & Louis Momeau, 1985 | 28m | |||
5.10b PG | Eclipse
FA: Benoit Dubois, 2013 | 28m | |||
5.12a G | ★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee
FA: Francois Roy, THomas Ryan & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 22m | |||
5.10d PG | Yahaka
With an extension above the anchors: 5.11C 30m. FA: Francois Roy & Alain Henault, 1985 | 20m | |||
5.12c PG | La Voie Lactee
FA: Francois Roy & Pavel Marek, 1987 | 23m, 2 | |||
5.12a PG | Libre a toi
FA: Francois Roy & Pavel Marek, 1987 | 18m | |||
5.10a PG | Vie avenir
FA: Benoit Dubois, 2012 | 15m, 1 | |||
5.8 | Little Monkey Banana
Same anchor as "Vie avenir". | 15m | |||
Mont de l'ours | |||||
5.12d | Blind date
The first climb of the new sector (left of Astro). Fully equipped for sport climbing. A slightly overhung wall with lots of pockets, some good, others not so much; the trick is finding the right ones. FA: Benoit Dubois, 2021 | 29m, 11 | |||
5.12b | Patte d'ours
Mostly trad, with one bolt protecting the crux, this varied climb will not let you down. It is recommended to belay from the top of the boulders (through the cave). FA: Alain Simard & Claude Gélinas, 2017 | 25m | |||
5.8 | Branchement au mur
This climb offers little interest and was only used to install the anchor for "Patte d'ours". FA: Alain Simard, 2017 | 25m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Astro
1
5.8
30m
2
5.7
55m
The leftmost climb of the multi-pitch area was recently (2021) re-cleaned by Tom Canac and Cynthia Roy-Leblanc. Its start and finish through a clean dihedral and hand/finger crack give it the status of classic moderate. Climbing
FA: Alain Simard | 85m, 2 | |||
5.9 | Aero
Short single-pitch climb that reaches the first anchor of 'Fantaisie Spatiale' and deserves more traffic. Bring small stoppers and Cams under #0.75 for the arch.
FA: Alain Simard | 20m | |||
5.8 | Fantaisie Spatiale
1
5.8
20m
2
30m
3
50m
FA: Paul Chamberland & Stephane Lapierre, 1985 | 100m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Le Blues de la brosse a dents
Very nice clean 20m dihedrals with great finger jams. on very good quality rock.
FA: Darcy McNeil & Stephane Lapierre, 1996 | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf!
1
5.6
25m
2
5.7
30m
Once your reach the toe of the Mont de l'Ours buttress, follow the base of the mountain leftwards until you reach an obvious gully.
| 55m | |||
5.11d | Les Aventures du Racoon Perdu
1
5.6
2
5.11d
| 60m, 2 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Pinocchio
1
5.8
2
5.8
3
5.6
Usually climbed in three pitches but could be four if you stop at the first bolted anchor.
Descent: Rappel with two ropes down 'La Directe de l'ours' . Be mindful of ascending parties and watch out for wind when tossing ropes and horns when pulling them. FA: J. P. Cadot & P. Desautels, 1971 | 140m, 3 | |||
5.7 | ★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45m
2
5.7
60m
3
5.6
35m
One of the more traveled routes on the Mont de l'Ours. Dries out fast in the spring due to unsettling wind and south-facing conditions. Climbing
Variations
Descent
FA: Francois Xavier Garneau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1975 | 140m, 3 | |||
5.6 | L'Arete sud
Start near the start of 'La Directe de l'ours' and follow the path of least resistance trending up and right following rails and broken cracks. Possibility of reaching the last pitch of 'La Directe de l'ours'. Descent Same as 'La Directe de l'ours' | 150m | |||
5.8 PG - R | Passe-Montagne
FA: Pierre-Alexandre Paquette & Jeff Bernier, 2019 | 150m | |||
5.9 R - X | Passe-Carreau
FA: Pierre-Alexandre Paquette & Tom Canac, 2019 | 150m | |||
5.8 PG - R | Fardoche
FA: Pierre-Alexandre Paquette & Jeff Bernier, 2019 | 150m | |||
5.7 PG | Ti-Brin
FA: Pierre-Alexandre Paquette, 2019 | 150m | |||
Mont Gol | |||||
5.10a PG | Honey Rider
FA: Pierre-Alexandre Paquette & Tom Canac, 2019 | 150m | |||
5.9 PG | Gengis Khan
FA: Jacques Lamontagne & Gaétan Martineau, 1980 | 110m | |||
Mont du Gros Bras | |||||
Class 4 | L'arete
Climb a series of small faces up the left side of the cliff. | ||||
5.6 | Panoramique
FA: Leopold Nadeau, Stephane Frick & Claude Berube, 1973 | 200m, 5 | |||
5.10a | L'entrechat
FA: Gaetan Martineau & Laurier Pare, 1984 | 160m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Campanule
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.5
The crux pitch was originally aided through at 5.8 A1 and later freed. Three stellar pitches sandwiched in between underwhelming passages.
FFA: Claude Gélinas & Jocelyn Bérubé FA: Stephan Frick & Leopold Nadeau, 1973 | 200m, 5 | |||
5.11c | Chinook
FFA: Louis Babin & Tomas Ryan, 1984 FA: Gaetan Martineau & Jacques Lamontagne, 1984 | 200m, 5 | |||
5.12a | Mechant Boris
FA: Gaetan Martineau & Francois-Guy Thivierge, 1985 FFA: Francois Roy & Tomas Ryan, 1989 | 200m, 5 | |||
5.10b A2 | Creve Salope
FA: Pavel Marek & Stephane Lapierre, 1987 | 200m | |||
5.10c | Le Bras Canadienne
Variant pitch for Lido FA: Benoit Dubois, 2013 | 25m | |||
5.11d PG | Le Mirroir du nord
Variant after pitch 1 of Lido FA: Francois Roy & Stephane Lapierre, 1986 | 60m | |||
5.10b PG | Lido
FA: Louis Babin & Claude Berube, 1973 | 110m, 3 | |||
5.10 | Harmonie Interieure
FA: Louis Babin & Hubert Morin, 1981 | 160m, 5 | |||
5.8 | ★ Velerie Reverie
FA: Francois-Guy Thivierge, 1988 | 40m |