Routes as trad in Val di Mello

Via di due tiri in placca di aderenza, non proteggibile fino al primo chiodo a circa 15 metri dalla base. Ottima per raggiungere la partenza di “Alba del Nirvana”

The first route opened in Val di Mello according to the Val di Mello guidebook published by Versante Sud (2004 edition).

The route is located a few meters to the left a river/waterfall descending from the mountains and it starts on the right side of a cave on a dihedral leading up to another cave.

1. 30m (5) Dihedral on the right side until you reach a terrace at the beginning of a cave or chimney like structure.

2. 25m (5+) A 2m vertical face towards the chimney (one piton), through the chimney. Belay on a tree after the chimney.

3. 25m (5) Follow the vertical cracks to the top.

Descend on foot to the left following a clear trail.

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/mello4/mello4.htm

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=958&id_tipologia=38

Overhang and then slabs. Take one middle friend

6b obbligatory in A1. Starts about 20m right of ARTEMISIA.

A combination of three routes, the first three pitchs of Forse si, forse no (Igor Koller, Peter Machai, Miro Piala, 1996) followed by Mellodramma (Gianni & Paolo Covelli, Silvio Fieschi, Fabio Spatola, 1989) up to the 15th pitch to then finish up Melat (Sonja Brambati, Adriano Carnati e Paolo Vitali, 1993).

6a A3.

6b A2.

6b A1.

6b A2.

Arrampicata tecnica su placche e muri di granito perfetto in ambiente da favola! Linea logica ed evidente che, nella parte alta, supera in modo astuto una fascia di tetti all’apparenza inaccessibile. Alcuni tiri sono stupendi! Le difficoltà omogenee e l’ottima chiodatura la rendono una delle vie più facili della parete. La salita è stata dedicata a Teo & Giò, amici ed Istruttori della Scuola di alpinismo “L. Pellicioli” del CAI Bergamo periti nel settembre 2021 sul Pizzo Badile.

More Info: https://scuolaleonepellicioli.altervista.org/relazioni/roccia/monte-qualido-via-impressioni-di-settembre/

Very slabby. First pitch full of moss.

This route is mostly climbed in combination with La Sfera di Cristallo which is located in the upper part of this sector.

Beautiful route following the dominant arc in the cliff of this rock formation.

The route starts on a slab section at the edge of the wood almost directly below the beginning of the dominant arc.

1. 50m (5c) Climb the slab up towards some bushes/trees until you reach a small wall just below the beginning of the arc. There is one old bolt and one piton at the anchor (can be reinforced).

2. 30m (5b) Step over the small wall to the left and climb the beautiful arched crack until you arrive at the left corner (some pitons in the crack, many good cam and nut placements available). There is a piton and an old bolt at the anchor (easy to reinforce with gear).

3. 15m (6a) Go around the corner, follow the horizontal crack to a ledge. Climb up a couple of meters to the right from there. It may be better to create an anchor here if the traverse is challenging for the followers (communication, rope management/drag).

4. 35m (4c) Climb the slabby top section pretty much straight up to the top. There are some bad bolts and pitons.Better to use the trees as anchors.

Descend on foot (go to the left until you reach a hiking trail) or rappel off.

Slab with run-outs, corners Pitches: 4 (45m), 5+ (40m), 5+ (35m), 7- (40m), 5+ (45m)

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=964&id_tipologia=38