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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
19 Vanderholics

Beaut sustained climbing on lovely holds.

Up the wall past delicate slab move to a big rest in the cave. Take a breath and head out the right side up the vertical wall on magic holds.

Start: Directly below the cave, on the left side of the obvious crack.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1999

Sport 25m Nowra
16 The Sisters of Fatima

A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top.

FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy, 2000

Sport 12m, 5 Blue Mountains
13 Muldoon
1 13 20m
2 12 22m
  1. 20m (13)

  2. 22m (12) Rap from double ring bolts above the climb - double ropes required, or walk right and down the gully.

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965

Trad 42m, 2 Arapiles
18 Pterodactyl

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now.

FA: Ted Cais & David Reeve, 1969

FFA: Mick Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1985

Sport 17m, 5 Kangaroo Point
14 D Minor
1 10 25m
2 14 10m

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.

This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.

Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964

Trad 35m, 2 Arapiles
12 Bard
1 12 43m
2 12 12m
3 12 20m
4 12 15m
5 12 30m

Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.

  1. 43m (12) Up the slab (some fiddly pro) to L facing corner. Up corner to ramp. Belay at top of ramp.

  2. 12m (12) Move around the arete, then up. Airy traverse L around the arete (grovel across or grab the undercling, lean back and find good holds above), and across the front face to belay on the nose.

  3. 20m (12, crux) Diagonally R across the face to a bottomless chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney.

  4. 15m (12) Up the steep juggy line to the Bard Terrace.

  5. 30m (12) Up the bottomless corner then R onto and up the wall.

FA: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, 1965

Trad 120m, 5 Arapiles
21 Idiot Wind

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

FFA: Gordon Bieske & Paul Hoskins, 1984

Sport 18m, 5 Kangaroo Point
16 Halva

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB.

FFA: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1992

Sport 20m, 5 Kangaroo Point
21 Jaws

The easiest warm-up here abouts, and the third most popular route in all of NSW. Considered solid at the grade, but soloed by stronger climbers. Rebolted 2004.

FA: Frey Yule

Sport 15m, 4 Blue Mountains
17 Dysentery

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

Sport 18m, 6 Kangaroo Point
18 The Bandoline Grip

Follows the obvious orange streak up the middle of the wall. Ringbolts.

FA: C. Martin & J. Smoothy, 1985

Sport 18m, 8 Blue Mountains
19 Jack High

Super popular. Start behind the right of the two gums. Up to lower-off at break. As per usual, please do not top-rope directly through anchors.

FA: J.Smoothy & M. Stacey, 1986

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
18 Orca

Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish.

Optional friend no longer needed to protect start.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Craig Paul & Trudy Bretherton, 1991

Sport 25m, 8 Nowra
15 Santa's Little Helper

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

FA: Sue Young, 1997

Sport 15m, 6 Nowra
11 Lucifer

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

FA: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1994

Sport 15m Nowra
18 The Eternity

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not 'Australia'. 'Fantastic' climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

  1. 22m (18) Blast straight up the crack, jamming through a low crux. Follow the crack left to a rest, then back right to an awkward finish. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

  2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

FA: J Moore (Pitch 2: J Ewbank 1967 & FFA: M Law 1978)

Trad 52m Blue Mountains
11 Agamemnon
  1. 15m (11) Up the slab to big boulder choke

  2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964

Trad 40m, 2 Arapiles
13 Horn Piece

Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976

Trad 33m Arapiles
11 Piccolo
1 11 18m
2 11 15m

'Piccolo Pipe' The second pipe with the narrow front.

  1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the 'pipe' past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

  2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into 'Organ Pipes Gully' to get off.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965

Trad 33m, 2 Arapiles
18 Gladiator

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here. Straight up to DRBB.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1975

Trad 20m Frog Buttress
19 Little Triggers

Marked LT. 2.5m R of Dr Do Little. Thin start, then through some overlaps. Best route on the wall.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1982

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
14 Sweet Dreams
1 14 20m
2 10 20m
3 13 28m
4 13 25m
5 14 15m
6 10 10m

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. Although there are many bolts on this route - a trad rack is required for pitches 2, 5 and the last pitch (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent.

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

  1. 20m (14) Short wall past bolt onto ledge then left to chimney (bolt), up to ledge and DRB belay.

  2. 20m (10) Trad protected crack to DRB belay in little alcove. Save a large cam for the last few metres of this pitch.

  3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab past 6 bolts and couple of cam slots to DRB.

  4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m (ignore these). Continue up wall (3 bolts & optional cam), then step right to crack above bowel clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner at DRB. If it gets crowded there are two sets of anchors here.

  5. 15m (14) Up easy trad protected corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge.

  6. 10m (10) If you took the rarely climbed right variant climb chossy overhang above.

FA: T. Batty & B.Allen

Mixed trad 120m, 6, 20 Blue Mountains
23 Squealer

A direct start added to the great original finish of 'Squealer' makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off, an optional medium sized SLCD can be placed in the low horizontal if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the first raised platform.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Sport 18m, 6 Mt Tibrogargan
18 Stormin Norman

Start 2m left of SOF. Up tending right then left through crux, to easy top section. Double fixed biners at top.

FA: J Smoothy & F Lumsden, 2000

Sport 12m, 4 Blue Mountains
17 Flake Crack
1 17 15m
2 17 15m
3 23m

Starts at the obvious layback flake 4m left of On Edge.

Most link pitch 1 & 2 and forego the final pitch, descending via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.

  1. 15m (17) Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge (most link straight into 2nd pitch)

  2. 15m (17) From ledge head right and up obvious crack through rooflet to lower-offs or onto ledge and carrot belay

  3. 23m (??) Rarely done chimney pitch off to the left.

Lower-offs and new belay carrots added 2016

FA: J Ewbank & E Saxby, 1964

Trad 53m, 3 Blue Mountains
17 Bombadil

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole & Mark Poole, 2002

Sport 18m, 5 Kangaroo Point
24 Has It Got a Chevy Motor?

Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Sport 12m, 7 Mt Coolum
23 Split Wave

Really good fun sport climbing with plenty of jugs in the roof. Very popular.

FA: D. Noble, 1990

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
25 Hung Like A Fruit Bat

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular.

FFA: Simon Moses, 1998

Sport 8m, 5 Mt Coolum
22 Slider

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Adam Donoghue, 2008

Sport 16m, 7 Mt Tibrogargan
18 Diddy Kong

FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1996

Sport 24m Nowra
10 D Major
1 10 25m
2 10 25m

Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe.

Start: Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the pipe

  1. 25m (10) Bridge up slick groove splitting bottom half of the buttress and under the boulder. It's a good idea to belay on top of the boulder.

  2. 25m (10) From top of the boulder climb steep juggy buttress to chimney finish. An alternative to this pitch is to climb the chimney to the left. This is very narrow.

FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964

Trad 50m, 2 Arapiles
16 Tombstone Row

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 15 to 16.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

Sport 18m, 5 Kangaroo Point
20 Pommy Bastard

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

FA: Michael Woodrow & visiting female climber...

Sport 18m, 5 Kangaroo Point
18 Samurai Pizza Catz

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury & Trudy Bretherton, 1990

Sport 15m Nowra
25 Rubber Lover

One of the popular classics of the grade. Ringbolts and chalk show the way. All good fun. Lower-offs added 2004. This route originally went to a set of chains a couple of metres above the lower offs. The chains are still there. Was grade 26 but was chipped some time after the first ascent.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1992

Sport 20m, 5 Blue Mountains
20 Spinning Blades of Steel

Start at the right side of the pillar and follow the jugs out to the left. Use the rings.

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

Sport 9m Nowra
18 A Tale of Two Cities

Bold start to gain slightly overhanging face then up scoops on rings to double ring lower off. Good fun at the grade.

FA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy

Sport 12m, 7 Blue Mountains
5 Tiptoe Ridge
1 3 43m
2 5 27m
3 4 20m
4 5 30m

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

  1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

  2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

  3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

  4. 30m 5 head on up

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963

Trad 120m, 4 Arapiles
16 Mezzaluna

Has become a bit of a classic. 5 carrot bolts, 3 fixed hangers. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the last (carrot) bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

Sport 25m, 8 Blue Mountains
17 Burning Jowls

Ringbolts.

FA: C. Martin & J. Smoothy, 1985

Sport 18m Blue Mountains
24 Wages Of Fear

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

FA: John Pickard, 1968

FFA: Roger Bourne, 1984

Sport 18m, 5 Kangaroo Point
17 Hang On

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

FA: Garth Miller

Sport 15m, 6 Nowra
22 These People are Sandwiches

The undercut buttress has a white/yellow streak down its left side. This is it. High first bolt over the rooflet, then sustained climbing up the gently overhung orange wall. Popular.

FA: C. Martin & A. Penney, 1985

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
24 Junket Pumper

A bit of a classic. Used to have a few enhanced holds that were later cemented in - not that the grade changed at all. Start under the line with the biggest holds, just right of the sawn log.

FA: M. Stacey & J. Smoothy, 1988

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
16 Materialistic Prostitution

A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. A good safe lead if you are new to Frog. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. DRBB.

FA: Ross Allan & Rick White, 1970

Trad 20m Frog Buttress
17 Good Fortune

Stickclip if you are short (tricky start). Ringbolts. There is a loose ~10kg block at halfway: keep people clear below and try not to dislodge it.

FA: D.Noble, 1990

Sport 18m Blue Mountains
9 Conifer Crack
1 9 40m
2 9 40m

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks.

Start: 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

  1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

  2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

FA: Chris Davis & Ian Guild., 1964

Trad 80m, 2 Arapiles
13 Trinity

The line of ringbolts at far right of wall. New anchor 2015.

FA: C. Martin & R Chick, 1985

Sport 18m, 5 Blue Mountains
22 Chip-A-Holdaway

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH.

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

The route got its name when the pockets on the steepwall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent.

FFA: Andrew Horchner & Steven McMillan, 1998

Sport 18m, 6 Kangaroo Point
22 Lardy Lady's Lats

Good fun. Straight up, starting on the right side of the left of the two gum trees.

FA: Martin Pircher, 1997

Sport 25m, 13 Blue Mountains
25 Crazy Horny

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 25.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2000

Sport 10m, 4 Mt Coolum
18 TOS

Short and fun - a popular warm-up. Most find this a pumpy little 18.

FFA: Glenn, 2010

Sport 12m, 8 Pages Pinnacle
19 Silver Hands

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

Sport 9m Nowra
24 Howler

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

Sport 16m, 5 Mt Tibrogargan
17 Swinging

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976

Mixed trad 20m, 2 Arapiles
16 Watchtower Crack
1 12 25m
2 14 20m
3 16 18m
4 16 32m

Fantastic climb.

Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top.

Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.

  2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.

  3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.

  4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1966

Mixed trad 95m, 4, 3 Arapiles
10 Eskimo Nell

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

  1. 35m (10) Up corner and slabs above. Belay below chimney around the corner.

  2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge.

  3. 15m (1) Crawl through hole, belay on chockstone in chimney on the other side.

  4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow line of least resistance to the top.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1968

Trad 130m, 4 Arapiles
25 Madge McDonald

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at its best.

Borja

FA: M. Baker & S. Wythe, 1992

Sport 12m, 7 Blue Mountains
20 Move Over Brussel Sprout

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

FA: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1994

Sport 18m, 4 Kangaroo Point
14 Lamplighter
1 10 30m
2 14 30m
3 13 18m

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

  1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

  2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

  3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

FA: 1965

Trad 78m, 3 Arapiles
23 Lyptus

One of the best warm ups for the harder routes and a fine route to earn the grade also. Very popular. Anchor replaced 16/10/18. Still on the right as it swings you away from tree when cleaning. Same biners. Just surface rust. Feel free to donate coldshuts as I have done on Grapehour.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Sport 23m, 8 Blue Mountains
16 Karinya

Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

Sport 25m, 7 Blue Mountains
17 Pass the Bosch

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

FFA: Dave Whitworth & Michael Long, 2000

Sport 18m, 6 Kangaroo Point
14 Joseph
1 13 24m
2 14 22m

Start: 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

  1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

  2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

FA: J Ewbank & E Saxby, 1964

Trad 46m, 2 Blue Mountains
17 L'Arch

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

FA: Tony Lindley, 2000

Sport 16m, 5 Nowra
23 Cucumber Castle

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1974

FFA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, 1984

Sport 18m, 4 Kangaroo Point
18 Jolly Good Fellow

Pleasant wall 6m R of K.

FA: D.Dewar, 2001

Sport 25m, 9 Blue Mountains
17 Woderwick

Start left of the cave as per BD.

FA: Sue Young, 1994

Sport 15m Nowra
19 Tannin

Nice video (in two parts) can be found here:- http://www.chockstone.org/GalleryArapsVideo.htm

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976

Trad 35m Arapiles
19 The Bolting Gestapo

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

Sport 18m, 5 Kangaroo Point
12 Date Anatomy

Start at the "DA" mark.

Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

FA: Marcus O'Mara, 1994

FFA: Kevin Coleman, ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Sport 16m, 4 Kangaroo Point
19 Gun Barrel Highway

FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1992

Sport 25m Nowra
18 Stoat Clips Bolts

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to lower-offs. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

Ensure that you and your belayer have good communication skills if leading this climb as the belayer can not see the climber when they reach the anchors because of the slab, you have to go halfway across the road to be able to see your climber at the anchors.

FFA: Gordon Bieske & Rob Whannell, 1985

Sport 18m, 6 Kangaroo Point
19 Ladder of Gloom

Traverse rightwards into the base of the obvious rock ladder. A bit of trickery makes it easier. Stick clip first ring makes it better on the nerves. New anchor out left adds another 4 moves and restores some of the original climbing. Start: 4m right of Cenotaph Corner.

FA: Mike Law & James Holbrook, 1980

Sport 12m, 4 Berowra
14 That Boy Needs Therapy.

Start 5m R of 'MOBS'.

A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB.

Sport 15m, 4 Kangaroo Point
9 Arachnus
1 8 40m
2 8 21m
3 9 14m
4 8 30m

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible in the middle section and many parties do the Minerva variant (described separately).

Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section, and 9 metres right of the start of The 'Watchtower Chimney'.

  1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

  2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

  3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

  4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

FA: Ian Speedie & Rob McQuilkin, 1964

Trad 110m, 4 Arapiles
18 Bunny Bucket Buttress
1 18 20m
2 18 20m
3 18 40m
4 8 30m
5 8 40m
6 18 40m
7 18 40m
8 13 40m
9 40m

Used to be a carrot patch for the sports bunnies, with an awesome final wall. Don't rap down Mirrorball, easy to jam your rope, use the rap station about 20m further right, with care (knot the rope ends!) Now it has rings all the way. Carrots are still there, so take some brackets if you need to share a belay. Don't go as a party of 3 unless you are experienced, it eats too much time. If you have a pack, haul it on the second rope if you're getting tired.

People have stupid epics on this all the time. Please read :- http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=26665&Replies=58&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

Generally safe, but run-out at times, with a few loose patches of rock. Take helmets as belayers are lashed to small ledges and can’t dodge shrapnel. Take 2 50m ropes (for rapping down, or retreating), 16 draws and a few slings.

There is a blue emergency bin below Pitch 6, with some water, food, clothing, torches, and basic shelter. Don't call 000 just because you are benighted, so the police don't have to go out at night to babysit you. Please arrange to replace anything you use.To ESCAPE if you've had to retreat- see notes above! Basically walk back to Old Skool and down the ridge to the river, then back up the Pierces Pass track

ACCESS: It’s halfway to Hotel California from Mirrorball. Rap down about 20m R of Mirrorball pinnacle. Set up on Ubolts on wall at head height, 45m almost free rap to small ledge-walk left 6m to next anchor. KNOTS IN THE ROPE ENDS- TAKE PRUSIKS AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM. Then a 45m free rap to the deck. Walk along the track to the right (facing the cliff). After 30m, drop down around the base of Old Skule (clean arete on next pinnacle) and go 70m horizontally right thru the scrub till you hit an orange buttress. Continue down a bit and about another 70m then (Red rope and BBB sign) scramble up and right to a ledge 15 m above the track, right of a chossy white patch, just right of a short squeeze chimney. Scramble up and walk right on the ledge till you see the bolts at the desperate boulder problem start. If you go down hill to a big fallen boulder, or see a 30m high black then orange corner (Randy Rabbit Ridge), or traverse beneath a choss cave, you've gone too far.

PRINT OUT TOPOS ETC AS YOUR PHONE PROBABLY WON'T WORK DOWN THERE!

  1. 20m (18) Traverse out right and back left to flake, reachy. Up to ledge, 2RB.

  2. 20m (18) Right and up seam and corner to ledge. Up a move and diagonally R to arete, then R to ledge and 2RB.

  3. 40m (18) Up dirty slab and R across corner, traverse R to nose and up corner and nose to ledge. 2RB on block or walk R 8m to 2BB at base of wall.

  4. 30m (8) A hard hands-free problem, diagonally R past bolts to 2RB on block further up or tree belay at the top of the slab.

  5. 40m (8) Climb across ledges and walls (and a lot of bush...) past bolts to below orange overhang, L to 2RB below corner.

  6. 40m (18) Up choss and head out L staying low under roof. This pitch can give bad drag, either sling the first 3 bolts to reduce drag or (PRO-TIP) bring second up to belay on second bolt and back up with a hanger on a carrot. Head up pumpy wall to big ledge. 2RB.

  7. 40m (18) Up vertical pump and move L to layback move at top. Needs 15 draws. 2RB.

  8. 40m (13) Left across ledge, diagonal L past bolts and across groove. Climb loose left wall to 2RB on top. Lots of rope drag.

TO WALK OUT after finishing the route: 3 options (marked on topo above):

  1. Walk up the L side of the ridge for 100m to join the footpad heading L back to Bell’s line of road.

  2. down top Mirrorball rap to Lunch Ledge. To get to the top of the rap go up the L side of the ridge for a few meters and then go L around the small gully to go back to cliff edge. Go west along the cliff edge to a small cairn above a short gullly, walk down to rap down Mirrorball to your gear at the lunch ledge (not when it's windy tho, easy to lose a rope).

  3. If it's windy walk north near cliff edge for 200m to gully and down to Lunch Ledge

FA: V Peterson & M Law, 2005

Sport 310m, 8 Blue Mountains
16 Sloth

The right route

FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994

Sport 23m Nowra
26 Screaming Insanity

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

FA: Chris Coghill, 1997

FFA: Simon Moses, 1998

Sport 15m, 9 Mt Coolum
17 Butt Head

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

FA: Rod Young, 1994

Sport 15m, 7 Nowra
19 Lonely Thursday

Rings to double ring lower off.

FA: C Hale, 2000

Sport 12m Blue Mountains
8 Diapason
1 7 20m
2 6 25m
3 8 10m

The first climb done in the 'Organ Pipes'. A very pleasant outing.

Start: Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

  1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

  2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

  3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Rob Taylor, 1963

Trad 55m, 3 Arapiles
23 Hot Flyer

Super popular. This is the way the route is usually climbed these days (in one pitch, all the way to the top lower-offs). Go left at the top (direct through the bulge isn't as nice - see below).

FA: J. Smoothy & C. Peisker, 1985

Sport 25m Blue Mountains
18 Hold on to Your Hats

Rings, just to the right of Pompadour.

FA: D.Noble, 1990

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
20 Little Thor

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 1965

FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974

Trad 12m Arapiles
14 Electric Lead

A good safe introduction to Frog at the grade. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the ledge but you can continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

FA: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron

Trad 26m Frog Buttress
21 Je Baise Ma Frangine

Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990

Sport 12m Nowra
16 Standing Room Only

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

FA: David Whitworth & Michael Long, 1994

Sport 18m, 5 Kangaroo Point
11 Trapeze

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

FA: Russell Judge & Don Bennett, 1964

Trad 20m Arapiles
21 A Day at the Beach

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

Sport 15m Nowra
15 Big Dreams

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

FA: Sue Young, 2000

Sport 15m Nowra
20 Nude Tuesday

Ringbolts.

FA: V.Petersen, 2001

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
18 Golden Fleece

A really good route, and definitely one of the most pleasant routes at the grade at 'Arapiles'.

Start 3m R of Jason.

Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and uo thin line.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter McKeand, 1969

FFA: Roland Pauligk eliminated the rest in., 1974

Trad 35m Arapiles
18 Skink
1 12 25m
2 18 40m
3 17 42m

A technical, exhilirating route. A great contrast to its companion climb.

Start: As for 'The Watchtower Crack'.

  1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge (first pitch of Watchtower Crack).

  2. 40m (18) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cave (second pitch of Watchtower Crack) and up to below the overhang. Traverse out right on fantastic horizontal break. Tricky moves gain sickle shaped line, then move up about 6m to a stance spanning the corner, which has some good wires and is surprisingly comfortable. Don't be tempted by the piton of 'Gollum' a few metres higher, you are much better off where you are.

  3. 42m (17) Follow the flake line, which eases towards the top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1966

Trad 110m, 3 Arapiles
14 Fucary Rug

The super popular left side of the arete. All rings and lower-off at top (or top out to carrots).

FA: M Pearce & A Brown, 1996

Sport 15m, 5 Blue Mountains
15 Beautiful Possibilities

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975

Trad 30m Arapiles
18 Elastic RURP

One of the most popular middle grade routes on the cliff, and deservedly so. The splitter crack up the face to the R of Micron. This route offers amazing gear, fantastic movement and some hair-raising moments thrown in for free! Rap down RURP from the DBB on the wall at the back of the ledge, not in behind the pillar as for Micron, which is notorious for stuck ropes.

FA: Rick White & Barry Overs, 1971

Trad 20m Frog Buttress
15 The Arrow and the Song

Start just left of Karinya, climb left a bit then up.

FA: Niall Doherty & Warwick Williams, 2010

Sport 26m, 9 Blue Mountains
15 Bottle Stopper

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

FFA: Monty Curtis & Mark Burnett, 1995

Sport 18m, 4 Kangaroo Point

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.