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Routes by Al Stephens

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 199 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Dangars Gorge Dangars Falls
13 Slippery When Wet

Start: Moving left from Goldfinger the next obvious feature is a major corner. This is the start for Slippery When Wet (goes diagonally right) and Toecap. Dangars Falls dries completely usually once a year. This climb, like Goldfinger, can only be climbed when completely dry.

  1. 33m. Up rib (15m) then traverse right (6m.) and up to ledge below steep wall (rusty piton).
  2. 18m. Diagonally up and right, then traverse right and up corner with thin crack to very large ledge (another rusty piton).
  3. 22m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up to belay in small corner (yet another rusty piton).
  4. 28m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up corner, then right onto nose, then right into second corner, up corner then traverse right to belay on ledge 6m. left of Action.
  5. 30m. Diagonally up left across slabs then to base of wall, traverse left and down slightly, then up fine, left diagonal crack to belay in sentry box.
  6. 23m. Up diagonally right crack line, then diagonally right again to corner, left around projections.
  7. 18m.The line of least resistance to top.

FA: Al Stephens & G.Francis (alt leads), 1980

Trad 170m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Private sector
12 Pluck a Duck

Start: First line on this section. of cliff.

Up wall past 3 bolts, heading right under bush to belay

FA: Al Stephens & Ben Christian, 1994

Sport 7m, 3
24 Yoda

Start: Right of Trajectory, three bolts up overhang on jugs to top. Double-bolt belay back up in corner.

FA: Al Stephens, 1994

Sport 10m, 3
14 Wild Dog

Start: 1m right of Elevator, the corner before the main wall.

Straight up the corner, a few layback moves provide the interest.

FA: Al Stephens & M. Peck, 1982

Trad 10m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Thick as Thieves Area
19 Fingertip Control

A diagonal corner just left and up from Tipitina. Harder than it looks. Up a short steep slab, then thin awkward moves in the corner to top.

FA: Al Stephens & M. Peck, 1982

Sport 15m
9 Tipitina

A corner with a bush. Up the corner, avoid the tree, then up final corner to top

FA: M. Peck & Al Stephens, 1982

Trad 15m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Hope Buttress
21 Wired World of Sport

Start: The climb faces Hope Buttress. 2 BRs and wires.

Swing up to the ‘bucket’, clip the bolt, then move up (crux) to the next BR. Mantle over the bulge, then up final crack to the top. 2 BR belay.

Mixed trad 10m, 2
22 Fury

Start: 4m left of the belay tree for Nirvana On Tap, the sharp crack above a large cave.

Up the fine crack, moving right onto the ledge. Step out right then up and through the roof and step (crux) up onto the top of the block. 2 BR belay.

FA: T. (Tadpole) Ball, 1986

FA: T. Gynther & Al Stephens, 1988

Trad 8m
17 Yuppie

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

Mixed trad 18m, 2
21 Faith

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

Mixed trad 20m, 2
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 Poetic Justice

The prominent arête on the back of Savage Amusement Buttress. 1 BR, #1 Rock, wires. Step across into the foot-holds (take care with small wire placement) then follow the arête past a BR and wires to the top. BR and tree (right back) for belay.

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1988

Mixed trad 10m, 1
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock

The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles. Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish.

FA: G. Stewart, 1988

FFA: Al Stephens & Mark Colyvan, 1989

Mixed trad 10m, 3
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Psychosomatic Wall
23 Tongue Tied & Twisted

Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!)

Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

FA: Al Stephens, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 2
23 Psychosomatic

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

Trad 15m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Illusion Buttress
19 Heavy Metal

A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain

FA: Al Stephens & E. Sharpe, 1981

Sport 18m, 5
20 Heavy Metal - Direct Start

Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.

FA: Al Stephens, 1994

Sport 18m, 4
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Shooting Star Block
23 Trapeze

Start as for Sweet Surrender. but once you’ve clipped the fourth bolt step back down and continue traversing right to the big jug and another bolt (ignore the extra bolt in between - it’s for another route and is a real bastard to clip. From the jug haul onto the slab and up the seam (wire placement) and onto the S.S. belay bolts.

FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1995

Sport 15m, 5
21 Low flying Angle

An easy tick if you are short. Start: The large flake roof at the extreme right- hand end of the buttress. Lean off the block to clip the first bolt then step back under roof. Swing out to letterbox then flip up onto the slab and continue on past another bolt. Double-bolt belay

FA: Scott Clelland & Al Stephens, 1994

Mixed trad 8m, 2
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Mad Woman's Breakfast Area
20 Mad Woman's Breakfast

Start: Up the crack through the bulge to the top.

Strenuous jamming. Take a #4 Friend.

FA: Al Stephens & SUTF, 1981

Trad 10m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central climbing areas Roadblock Area
20 Roadblock

Start: A short overhanging wall that eases to a slab. One BR.

Strenuously through the little overhang, then a rising rightward traverse past a BR to belay. Walk off. Protection is difficult to place on the traverse.

FA: Paul Bayne, Al Stephens & G. Croft, 1982

Mixed trad 15m, 1
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Fortress
19 Pockets Full of Emptiness

Start: On the ledge that is reached by traversing in about 50m down the upstream gully. The clean orange corner one pitch below the obvious roof crack which faces west.

Up initially overhanging twin cracks, then a few nice moves find you back in the offwidth to finish. Belay back on ledge.

FA: Gordon Low & Al Stephens, 1996

Trad 25m
22 Morning Glory

“Need a little time to wake up!”

Start: At the end of the ledge where PFOE finishes. Traverse in from the gully.

The series of layback flakes adjacent to the balancing boulder at the end of the ledge.

Up laybacks until they run out. Step right to some tricky wires then crimp up (crux) to slopey ledge before finishing up the final crack.

FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1996

Trad 20m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Kitchen
16 Frog in a Blender

Start: The corner 3m right of Get Nuked.

Up the corner to the left-leaning diagonal. Along this until it tops out with “Get Nuked”.

FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1997

Trad 7m
20 Zipper

Technically only about grade 18. Gets the extra 2 for tricky gear and the chance of a “Zipper”.

Start: The left-leaning diagonal seam 1m left of the arête left of K.O.K.K.

Up thin seam to shelf and good gear, then up nice crack to top out and belay in cracks.

FA: Al Stephens & Paul Bayne, 1999

Trad 10m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas Bunker Buttress
17 Bunker Buttress

Start: At river level, at a cascade at the end of a small pool. The line wanders, hence the short pitches.

  1. 23m. Up steps, a ramp and a corner to a large ledge.
  2. 17m. Left, up flake and into strenuous bottleneck chimney.
  3. 13m. Up body crack. Move right below long curving crack.
  4. 20m. Start up crack then move inside, chimney up and out to ledge.
  5. 10m. Up steep wide crack and wall to top.

FA: Al Stephens & Brian Birchall (Aid moves on pitch 5), 1975

FFA: Brian Birchall, 1976

Trad 83m, 5
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Downstream climbing areas The Bastille
21 Jaws of Life

Start: at the right-hand end of the Sundeck, just left of the large chimney / gully. Take five brackets and a range of wires.

Wires to the first BR and between first and second bolt, then bolts to top. Bridging and wall climbing with a chimney to finish off. 2 bolt belay next to tree.

FA: Al Stephens, Paul Bayne & 2 rests, 1992

FFA: Al Stephens & Mark Colyvan, 1992

Mixed trad 30m, 5
21 Jaws of Life

Start: at the right-hand end of the Sundeck, just left of the large chimney / gully. Take five brackets and a range of wires.

Wires to the first BR and between first and second bolt, then bolts to top. Bridging and wall climbing with a chimney to finish off. 2 bolt belay next to tree.

FA: Al Stephens, Paul Bayne & 2 rests, 1992

FFA: Al Stephens & Mark Colyvan, 1992

Mixed trad 30m, 5
23 Deep Thought

Start: The scalloped wall 8m left of “The Jaws of Life”.

Use short shallow corner to get established on the wall. Up past three bolts to friends in horizontal break, then two more bolts to bolt belay on ledge and a chain just above your head, around the roof.

FA: Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1992

Mixed trad 25m, 5
19 Geronimo Direct Finish

A more direct finish to the original route. The chimney left of No Frills.

From the top of Geronimo pitch 3. go directly up the off-width squeeze chimney, to some mank, then up crack on right to bulge. Through bulge and on to top.

Trad 30m
19 C'mon Everybody

Start: 8m right of the scary step-around (which is where the original last pitch of Geronimo goes up over the blocks) on the Sundeck, left of the Geronimo direct chimney. A flake crack.

Easily up little flake crack, then short easy wall with horizontal breaks to ledge below hanging flake / spike. Clip first B. R. then layback spike past another B.R. before stepping onto easy slab. Up easy slabby to overhanging corner crack, a couple of metres left of the alternate finish to Geronimo. Jamb this to the top.

FA: Al Stephens & Matt Rizzuto, 1998

Mixed trad 30m, 2
18 Innocence

An absolute classic, best of its grade in New England!

Start: About 30m down left along the narrow ledge from "C'mon everybody" on he obvious water streak that cuts a curving crack/flake at 2/3 height. Alternatively climb an easy short pitch directly under it.

Take five brackets and a rack of friends. Straight up blocks to water streak. Up this, through overlap and up the easy finish. Belay off two carrot anchors - take an extra two brackets (7 total).

FFA: E. Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1991

FA: Al Stephens, E. Sharpe, L.Dixon, P.Horne & J.Deckin, 1991

Mixed trad 25m, 5
19 Cutting Edge

Start: On the ledge on the right-hand side of the giant block. Abseil in off the trees about 20m left of Deep Thought. Take a #4 friend and six brackets.

Up the strenuous layback, around the roof to the top of the block, then up the slabby wall and belay right back on trees.

FA: Al Stephens & P. Lenders, 1992

Mixed trad 18m, 6
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Nettle Buttress
11 Wild Fire

Start: At groove that seems to disappear into the mank.

Straight up the crack, take the right groove at 21m, up bottle neck to a large ledge.

FA: Al Stephens & Jill Kelman, 1975

Trad 33m
17 Serenity

Start: A leaning corner crack.

  1. 30m (crux) Up the shallow crack, over block, then up the off width to a ledge.

  2. 26m Straight up the crack to a small roof. Out and around this to belay ledge.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Al Stephens (alt leads), 1975

Trad 56m, 2
14 Stampede

Start: A fine crack to the right of ‘Schizophrenic’.

  1. 22m Up thin crack, blocks and ledges to base of a short crack. Up this to ledge.

  2. 26m As for second pitch of ‘Serenity’.

FA: Al Stephens, P. Prior & Brian Birchall, 1975

Trad 48m, 2
15 M2 Schizophrenic

Start: A crack between ‘Stampede’ and ‘The Junk Man’.

  1. 27m (crux) Up corner to a vertical crack at the base of a large block. Up crack onto block.

  2. 24m Two or three nuts for aid over bulge, then free up the flake crack and aid up to roof, then move right on aid (pegs in place). Up the gap in roof to tree belay.

FA: Brian Birchall & Al Stephens (alt leads), 1975

Trad 51m, 2
12 M1 The Junk Man

Start: A thin flake below a bulge.

Up the flake then aid over the bulge and up the crack. Where the crack runs out (bolt in place) move left on tension, then up to to tree.

FA: Al Stephens & Ian Craven, 1975

Trad 21m
15 Little Hercules

Start: At the far left end of the buttress, a corner crack aith a flake start.

  1. 18m (crux) Onto block,then move into the corner, up into crack then chimney and gully to tree.

  2. 21m Up chimney, move around a small roof, then up the groove to tree.

Trad 39m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Isolated Buttress
21 Love is a Dog from Hell

Originally done with two aid rests, these were eliminated on the second ascent by N. Colyvan & B. Birchall on 7/8/81.

Start: The thin crack 1Dm right of ‘Adamant’.

Straight up the crack.

The thin crack 10m of Adamant. Straight up the crack, crux moves at half height.

FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Clark, 1980

Trad 15m
21 Love is a Dog from Hell

Originally done with two aid rests, these were eliminated on the second ascent by N. Colyvan & B. Birchall on 7/8/81.

Start: The thin crack 1Dm right of ‘Adamant’.

Straight up the crack.

The thin crack 10m of Adamant. Straight up the crack, crux moves at half height.

FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Clark, 1980

Trad 15m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Persian Carpets The Carpet
20 Endless Vacation

Start: On the ledge above 'Xerxes'. Either do 'Xerxes' or a double abseil from the top.

  1. 40m (crux) From the left-hand end of the ‘Xerxes’ ledge, straight up the waves of granite via 6 bolt runners to a belay in a scoop with 2 bolts.

  2. 45m Step left from the belay, then straight up the steep headwall past a bolt runner, then up the slabs past another bolt to the top, Tree belay.

FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1988

Mixed trad 85m, 2, 8
22 Nightmare on Elm Street

Start: 12-15m right of ‘Xerxes’, a flake 1m high.

  1. 20m (crux) Up the slab past 2 bolt runners to a ledge/scoop. Up the wall above past 2 more bolts then move right 2m to a bolt then straight up to ledge. Double bolt belay.

  2. 30m Up and slightly right to a small bush via a bolt runner. Right across easy ledges/ramp then up short steep wall past 2 bolt runners to belay. Double bolt belay.

  3. 45m As for the second pitch of ‘Endless Vacation’.

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988

Mixed trad 95m, 3, 7
21 High Tide

Start: About 4m left of ‘The Perfect Crime’.

Up slab going slightly leftwards down low and then back right up higher to steeper ground. Up steep wall then straight up above over easier ground to chain belay of ‘The Perfect Crime’. 5 bolts on route.

Abseil off or continue up ‘The Perfect Crime’.

Mixed trad 40m, 5
21 The Commitment

2m right of ‘Flesh Dance’.

Up to very thin flake (BR), then head right and up to the top of the flake to a second bolt. Continue up the corner (some natural protection is needed for this section) then clip bolt, step left and up steep head wall. Another bolt then easier ground to the chains of ‘The Perfect Crime’. Gear required: 6 bolt plates and quickdraws, #6 rock, & #2 friends.

FA: Gavin Dean & Al Stephens, 1993

Mixed trad 40m, 6
19 Flesh Dance

Take 7 quick-draws and bolt plates and no other gear for this.

Start: 12m left of ‘Nightmare on Elm Street’. A slabby lay away that leads to a steep wall.

  1. 45m (crux) Layaway up slab arête, then up steep wall on big jugs to less steep wall and smaller jugs, then easy slab and right to chains. 6 bolt runners in pitch.

  2. 45m From chains move left 2m then straight up the waves of slabs to double bolt belay. 5 bolts in pitch.

  3. 8m Easily up ledges past one bolt runner to top and tree belay.

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1989

Mixed trad 98m, 3, 7
20 Xenophon

Start: 1m right of ‘Post Crypt’ corner. The first water streak.

Straight up the water streak past 4 bolts, using a few edges on either side till the last bolt, then padding to the top. (#2 & #3 friends for belay in alcove). Walk off left.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Mike Farnworth, 1986

Mixed trad 20m, 5
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Persian Carpets The Rug
12 Plus Tasmania

Buy one of these and you get absolutely free, air-conditioning, cassette/radio, 12 months supply of petrol, a block of flats on the Gold Coast... .plus Tasmania!

Start: The most left-hand route on the cliff, 5m left of ‘Look Ma No Hands’.

Up the ledges (wire placements) to a bolt runner. Up the slab to the South coast of Tasmania (friends and small wires). Over the overlap via Launceston, then straight up past Burnie to a short steep wall, then to top.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

Mixed trad 20m, 1
21 Look Ma No Hands

A good route spoilt only by a chipped hold.Take 4 bolt plates, a 1½ friend and a 4 friend.

Start: About 4m left of 'Skid Row'.

Mantle up ledges, then delicately up the ramp, then straight up the water streak, finishing up the last moves of 'Country Bumpkin'.

FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

Mixed trad 30m, 4
22 Skid Row

Another good slab spoilt by a chippie. Take 4 bolt plates and #2,#3,#4 friends

Start: Left of ‘Country Bumpkin (about 15m), the water streak slab.

  1. 30m (crux) Straight up the water streak, easy at first then hard after last bolt. #2&#3 friends for belay.

  2. 10m Move left 5m then up last moves of ‘ Country Bumpkin’

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988

Mixed trad 40m, 2, 4
17 Country Member

“I’m a country member.” - “Yeah I remember”.

The direct line to the layback of ‘Country Bumpkin’.

Start: A few metres right of ‘Skid Row’.

  1. 30m Straight up to layback flake via 3 bolt runners. Up layback to tree belay on ledge (take care the tree is dead!).

  2. 10m (crux) Straight up slab past two bolt runners, and wall to top.

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988

Mixed trad 40m, 2, 5
20 Salad Days

Shit Hot! Take 3 bolt plates and some small friends and wires.

Start:5m right of ‘Country Member’s’ last pitch. Abseil in to tree.

Up water streak slab, step up onto the arête, then up the arête / slab past 3 bolt runners and a wire placement to the top.

FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

Mixed trad 15m, 3
15 Lay Back and Enjoy It

Start: Below and about 5m right of ‘Country Bumpkin’. A deep, wide crack on a low angled face.

  1. 20m Up the crack then scramble up to right angled corner.

  2. 20m (crux) Up the corner crack then scramble to tree belay.

  3. 20m Up the short steep wall then low angled corner crack.

FA: Al Stephens & E. Sharpe, 1980

Trad 60m, 3
16 Psycho Therapy

Start: Abseil in to the ledge beside ‘Lay Back and Enjoy It’. Approx 4m right of ‘Salad Days’.

Up the wall between ‘Layback and Enjoy It’ and ‘Reefer Madness’ past 3 bolts then step left onto ledge. Straight up from the ledge past another 4 bolt runners to the top tree belay.

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988

Mixed trad 45m, 7
16 Reefer Madness

Start: About 5m right of ’Psycho Therapy’.

Up the slab/wall past 6 bolt runners, going slightly rightwards in the middle section and back left a little near the top.

FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

Mixed trad 45m, 6
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge The Pagoda & Split Rock
16 No Scruples

Start: A short corner crack on the southern side.

Up corner crack, a step, then another corner crack followed by a layback.

FA: Al Stephens & Ed Sharpe, 1980

Trad 18m
15 Kinda Kute

Start: A sickle shaped crack below and right of ‘No Scruples’.

Follow crack, offwidth moves followed by jamming.

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Clark, 1980

Trad 12m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Bang Bang Wall
21 Bang Bang

A classic.

Start: Opposite ‘Billericay Dickie’ on the left side of the gully (as you walk down) are some slabs facing out into the gorge. Start at the base of the obvious crack on the left side of the slab. Originally 20 M1 with a couple of points of aid, this was progressively whittled away by Stephens, then Bayne then eventually freed’ by M. Colyvan and E. Sharp I8/6/H

Up crack to where it thins down and goes diagonally rightwards, follow crack into gully and rap off chains atop of 'That’s Entertainment'. Al Stephens

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1983

FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe & Mark Colyvan, 1983

Trad 30m
21 The Gremlin

A classic although is best to rap in from the top to avoid the horrid chimney leading up to it. Rap into semi-hanging belay from chain on top.

Start: as for ‘The Gates of Moria’

  1. 22m Scramble up into chimney then to undercling leading past bolt, then up into layback then step right at arête to belay at chains at horizontal crack.

  2. 15m (crux) Up face and arête to top past 3 bolts to chains.

FA: Greg Croft, Paul Bayne (alt leads) & Al Stephens, 1982

Trad 37m, 2
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Spider Terrace
18 Working Class Heroes

A Classic looking crack.

Start: The obvious diagonal crack line on the left hand side of the terrace.

  1. 30m (crux) Strenuously climb the diagonal crack, (After about 20m the crack rounds a corner and becomes vertical). Up for a few metres and belay in sentry box.

  2. 12m Up open groove, small roof and easier crack to top.

FFA: Al Stephens, P. Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981

Trad 36m, 2
18 Conditional Discharge

Start: As for ‘Prehistoric Sounds’ to ledge above tree. Follow the off-width crack on the right up through a bulge and then more easily on to top.

Trad 20m
19 Rise of the Bourgeoisie

Start: On the right hand end of the terrace

  1. 15m Up the hand crack to a ledge then continue up to a slight corner. Belay

  2. 15m (crux) Up the corner and delicately onto slab when crack runs out, then easily to top.

FA: R. Clark, Al Stephens & Brian Birchall (alt leads), 1981

Trad 25m, 2
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Flight Deck
20 Aisle of Deceit

Technical and sustained second pitch.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Charisma’

  1. 12m Up slab trending right into corner crack and up to tree on large ledge.

  2. 20m (crux) Up obvious intermittent cracks and into wide crack to top.

Trad 32m, 2
17 Pregnant Paws

Start: The obvious hand/fist crack with a small roof just to the left of ‘Aisle of Deceit’

  1. 10m Up crack through small roof to belay on left.

  2. 20m As for final pitch of Bunker Hill’.

Trad 30m, 2
22 Casa Nostra

A Mafia inspired enterprise by ‘Don’ Jack.

Start: On the ledge next to the start of ‘Tipsy’. Abseil in or get to the start via ‘Drunk and Disorderly’ or 'Pregnant Paws’.

Start up pitch three of 'Bunker Hill' for 2m then move left past bolt into the obvious overhanging Corner. Up corner to join 'Severence Pay' arête. Up this past 2 bolts to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Al Stephens & Richard Thomas, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 2
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall No Strings Attached Buttress
18 Swinger

Start: Up and left of ‘No Strings Attached’. Scramble across into corner, hand traverse under roof, around roof and up to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1981

Trad 12m
16 Petit Fleur

A classic short jam crack

Start: right of ‘No Strings Attached’.

Small roof and then crack to finish.

FA: Rob Clark & Al Stephens, 1981

Trad 10m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Middle Tier
22 Footprints on the Dashboard

An excellent climb with good protection, although it can be a little awkward to place.

Start: A thin crack in the wall 5m right of ‘Autumnal Beauty’.

Up past the bolt at 4m to a small ledge. Continue straight up the crack to just below the small tree. Traverse off left to the abseil tree.

FA: Al Stephens & Simon Gay, 1984

Mixed trad 25m, 1
15 La Cucaracha

A classic, intriguing and varied

Start: The crack/corner (leftward facing) around left from the chains atop of ‘Backlash’.

A thin crack, then a short chimney, out over a bulge, then a long traverse right and up easy crack to finish.

FA: Ed Sharpe, Mike Peck & Al Stephens, 1981

Trad 40m
19 Jackhammer Blues

An absolute joy.

Start: As for ‘Eat it G-Man’.

Up the slab past two bolts, over a bulge, then up the open corner past another bolt to a short slab to finish.

FA: Al Stephens, Greg Croft & Paul Colyvan, 1983

Mixed trad 40m, 3
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Brut & Environs
20 Bleat

Some aid rests on the first ascent were eliminated by M. Colyvan, B. Birchall and B. Sharp 15/3/81

Start: The obvious rightward leaning off-width. Up crack to large spike, then swing left and finish up the final section of 'Brut'.

FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981

Trad 23m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Lower Dome Wall
19 Grave Reservations

One-point of aid near the top of P1 eliminated by Colyvan & Bayne 25/7/81.

Start: As for ‘Biggus Grippus’.

  1. 25m (crux) Up chimney as for 'Biggus Grippus' then follow thin crack line on the left to ledge.

  2. 25m Up ramp on right and careful climbing over large loose block into fine corner crack. Finish as for ‘Biggus Grippus’.

FA: Al Stephens & Brian Birchall (alt leads), 1981

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981

Trad 50m, 2
18 Biggus Grippus

Start: Chimney to the right of 'Master Blaster'.

  1. 25m Up chimney, then crack to smell ledge. Move right to small ledge and belay.

  2. 25m Up crack, move right to face and delicately move left again a little higher.

FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981

Trad 50m, 2
17 Face Value

A variant to ‘Face Value’.

  1. 15m As for ‘Face Value’

  2. 15m As for ‘Face Value’. belay under overlap.

  3. 10m (crux) Move left, under-cling then jam to large ledge.

  4. 25m Up easy looking chimney and exit onto the Flight Deck.

FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981

Trad 63m, 4
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Dome Wall Reality Wall
20 Iron in the Soul

Start: At the right-hand end of the main slab/wall.

  1. Up to a small tree at 3m then swing left on jugs. Continue going upwards along the thin crack. Clip the first bolt then step up and right onto ledge, then step up and left to second bolt, then straight up the slab/wall past a third bolt to a belay ledge double bolt belay).

  2. Up slabby wall via three bolt runners to small tree, then sharp crack to belay.

FA: Al Stephens & Simon Gay, 1985

Mixed trad 85m, 2, 8
16 That Slick Little Crack

Start: The very clean crack system 3m right of ‘That Slick Little Crack’.

Juggy corner to ledge past bolt to bulge (crux).Over bulge past two bolt-runners, then crack to slab finish.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1985

Mixed trad 15m, 3
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Sweethearts
18 Good Friday

Start: 2m. left of A.T.O.C.

Traverse diagonally left up slab, step left, continue up slab, then right to base of chimney/off-width. Up this and exit right to ledge.

FA: A. Legler & Paul Bayne, 1980

FFA: R. Clark & Al Stephens, 1980

Trad 30m
19 Purgative

Start: 12m. Left of N.A.V. The outstanding jagged off-width that splits the wall. If you ever weaken and feel the need to do an off-width, then this is the one to do. Beautiful! (You'll need big gear.)

  1. 25m (Crux) Up the crack for 5m, move left to the start of the off-width. Up the off-width sections and belay on the first reasonable ledge.

  2. 25m Up the cracks then in behind the fig tree, a tricky exit then easy climbing to top.

FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980

FFA: R. Clark & M. Colyvan, 1981

Trad 50m, 2
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Wallaby Wall & Slab City
18 Against all Odds

Start: At a layback crack leading to a large yellow roof approx 50m. right of Timeless Realm, and approx 5m right of Peasant Uprising.

  1. 25m Up crack in corner to ledge below roof. At the fig tree move left 3m to a ledge below a chimney.

  2. 30m Crux, Up the chimney then move left to the base of an off-width crack. Up off-width and jam above, move around tree and continue to a manky ledge,

  3. 25m Up chimney/groove then crack , onto a ledge, then up off-width to top.

FA: R.Clark & Al Stephens, 1980

Trad 80m, 3
19 Bananas

On the small wall at the extreme left hand end of Slab City

  1. 25m. Up crack trending right up to overlap. Move right to the arete and then back left up the easy arete to top.
Trad 25m
17 Macadamia

Start: Right of Hang Ten and left of the fig tree, a slabby wall leading to low angled cracks. Shares the upper section with Deviant Death. (Take a #4 Friend).

Straight up wall, then to the top of the flake crack. Move right approx. 2m. then straight up to thin, steepening crack corner. Step left into wide crack/cave, jam up to bush/vine, then pull over the bulge/roof and straight to top. Tree belay,

FA: T. Gynthcr & Al Stephens, 1987

Trad 48m
21 Silence is Golden

Start: "... but my eyes can see.."

The two bolts on the wall are hard to see until you get very close to them. An excellent route with a touch of boldness. 1m right of Elite Style/Unholy Trinity, a crack leading to a water streak.

  1. 20m Up crack to ledge. Belay.

  2. 30m Continue up sleep crack above to ledge. Then up slabby wall to the left of the water streak, trending leftwards past two B.R.s to scoop. Carefully up scoop to belay. (Cracks or tree).

Trad 60m, 2
18 Organic Fallout

Start: 15m. right of S.I.G., a scoop leading to an arête. Another excellent climb. Unfortunately some of the organic substances have grown back and needs occasional harvesting. Great fun! One B.R.

  1. 10m At the scoop, move right diagonally, via a short crack, to a group of small trees below the arête. Belay.

  2. 35m Jug-haul up the arête , step right and continue up a crack which blanks out. Continue up the arête to a stance and a bolt, Clip it! (Stepping left off the arete here incurs instant disqualification, and an appearance before the Ethics Committee). Exciting layaways (crux) then lead to easier ground.

FA: S. (The Apprentice) Gay & Al Stephens, 1984

Trad 45m, 2
15 Better Get A Bucket

Start: At the extreme right-hand end of Slab City. A crack onto a ledge, then a slabby wall. One BR plus other gear.

"How do you feel?"... "Better.... better get a bucket!" - M. Python.

Up the crack, step left onto the slabby wall, past a bolt, then up to the fig tree, step left again, then easily to the top.

FA: Al Stephens & S.Gay, 1984

Mixed trad 26m, 1
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Three Sisters 1st Sister
19 New Boots and Panties

Start: The beautiful corner crack that widens near the top.

This climbs shares the start with Pavlov's Dog. Originally the climb traversed Ieft on aid (Ml), at the start of the wide crack, and then finished up Pavlov's Dog. The direct finish was added a year later. Take a full rack. Beautiful!

28m Up blocks and crack for a few meters then move right up thin crack to the main corner. Up the corner, then continue wild lay backing up the wide crack. Belay on ledge.

FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980

FFA: Al Stephens & Ed Sharp, 1981

Trad 28m
19 New Boots and Panties

Start: The beautiful corner crack that widens near the top.

This climbs shares the start with Pavlov's Dog. Originally the climb traversed Ieft on aid (Ml), at the start of the wide crack, and then finished up Pavlov's Dog. The direct finish was added a year later. Take a full rack. Beautiful!

28m Up blocks and crack for a few meters then move right up thin crack to the main corner. Up the corner, then continue wild lay backing up the wide crack. Belay on ledge.

FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980

FFA: Al Stephens & Ed Sharp, 1981

Trad 28m
18 La Paloma

Start: 2-3metres left of Pavlov's Dog. Broken blocks lead to a thin crack corner. Technical and sustained,

  1. 21m (Crux) Scramble onto blocks, then hard moves to start the crack, followed by a series of layaways and an exhilarating finish onto the tree-ledge of Pavlov's Dog.

  2. 10m As for the second pitch of Pavlov's Dog.

FA: Al Stephens & R.Clark, 1980

Trad 33m
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Three Sisters 2nd Sister
16 Flourescent Halo

Start: Behind the viewing rock for the 3rd Sister. Walk back towards the 1st Sister until you come to a shallow gully. Abseil down the route from a large wattle tree. Take large SLCD's.

  1. 15m Up the ramp and twin cracks. From the top of the block go up the chimney and around the chock stone? onto a large ledge.

  2. 10m (Crux) Up the corner crack, then right under the roof and into the hand crack and up to top.

FA: R.Clark & Al Stephens, 1980

Trad 25m, 2
Australia New South Wales and ACT Northern Tablelands Gara Gorge Western Gara Gorge Three Sisters 3rd Sister
15 Hair of the Dog

Start: About 10-15m left of Theft, down the descent gully. A wandering but varied climb. The first few moves cannot be protected but protection on the rest of the climb is very good. A variety of gear is needed.

  1. 15m Awkward mantle then bridging to crack. Up crack to small ledge below a slab and a roof. (Wild Prairie Fire goes straight up the layback above),

  2. 15m (Crux) Using the slab, move left, out and around the roof, then up a short hard crack to ledge and a small tree. Belay here due to rope drag.

  3. 10m Either up chimney (4m.) then step right and lay-back to ledge, OR blast straight up the chimney and hand crack above(19). You can scramble off from here

FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980

Trad 51m, 4
16 Hair of the Dog (variant finish)
  1. Same

  2. Same

  3. 20m Up sloping leftward crack, exposed and thin near the end.

FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980

Trad 21m, 3
19 Wild Prairie Fire

Start: As for Hair Of The Dog. Take a Bracket for the layback. A classic.

  1. 10m Up to the ledge below the roof/slab of HOTD.

  2. 20m (Crux) Step right then up the layback (bolt halfway) to a large ledge, then a short layback and jam finish.

FA: Al Stephens & T.BaIla, 1983

Trad 2
20 Blockhead

Start: The next big crack line left of HOTD. The wild-looking chimney/off-width. Named after the great lan Dury's band. If you don't like the look of the first pitch, the exciting second pitch can be gained by climbing to the big ledge on El Duce and stepping across right.

  1. 21m Easily into chimney then awkward moves lead to Jam crack, and ledge.

  2. 22m (Crux) Up the steep crack to a smai! lip. Exciting climbing leads to the last pitch of HOTD.

FA: Al Stephens & R. dark, 1980

FFA: M.Colyvan, 1981

Trad 43m, 2
20 El Duce

Start: On a large ledge with a dead fig tree. A superb route.

  1. 29m (Crux) Up the groove and to the small roof. Swing around the roof and up to small ledge.

  2. As for La Doice Vita

  3. Same

A variation of the second pitch is to take the right hand of two cracks situated left of the main line.

FA: R.Clark & Al Stephens, 1980

FFA: Al Stephens, R. Clark & G. Croft, 1981

Trad 73m, 3
20 El Duce

Start: On a large ledge with a dead fig tree. A superb route.

  1. 29m (Crux) Up the groove and to the small roof. Swing around the roof and up to small ledge.

  2. As for La Doice Vita

  3. Same

A variation of the second pitch is to take the right hand of two cracks situated left of the main line.

FA: R.Clark & Al Stephens, 1980

FFA: Al Stephens, R. Clark & G. Croft, 1981

Trad 73m, 3
18 La Dolce Vita

Start; Just left of E.D. in a sentry box. Creep and Golden Age share the same start.

  1. 20m Up easy cracks and ledges to large grassy ledge, below chimney corner.

  2. 15m Move to the right-hand side of the ledge then power up the jam crack, stepping off at the top to a small ledge.

  3. 20m (Crux) From the small ledge move right 2m., then layback up crack and large blocks to a large ledge.

  4. 20m Walk right along ledge, a short hand traverse, then up final moves of H.O.T.D., jam and scramble to top.

FA: R.Clark & Al Stephens, 1980

Trad 75m, 4
23 Fake the Funk

"Don't fake the funk on a nasty dunk"- Coke iid. rake-

Rocks and R.P.'s plus Friends up to #3 , plus 3 bolt plates.

Start: Right on the corner at the bottom of the gully, takes in the first few moves of Down On Creation.

Up 'Down on Creation' for approx. 8m, then step right onto the wail. Up wall past BR to small rest ledge, then steeply up line to second BR. From here swing out right, up, then back left to large jug and third BR on small shelf Continue up steeply (crux) to belay ledge. Belay and rap off wires,

FA: Al Stephens, Ben Christian & T.Waters, 1993

Trad 25m
17 Down on Creation

Start: At the bottom of the descent gully, as for FTF, An interesting adventure climb into the unknown. Excellent pro.

  1. 45m Follow the diagonal crack corner left over bulges to a ledge, continue up the line to a large ledge with several trees.

  2. 15m (Crux) Climb the flared corner crack to gain access to the next major ledge.

  3. 40m Move left into major corner, up corner trending right to a small ledge at the base of two final short cracks. The left crack is the easiest (only just).

FA: Al Stephens, J.Friend, G & G. Francis(all led), 1977

Trad 100m, 3
19 The Lost World

This climb takes the first pitch of DOC to the first major ledge, then goes straight up the steep corner crack to a ledge of fig trees. Move right around the ledge past a wide to a chimney crack. Up the chimney and into a corner. Take your choice of exits (the easiest being to chimney up onto the Creep belay ledge) and finish as for Creep.

Start: As for D.O.C.

  1. 25m The first pitch of D.O.C. to the first rest ledge,

  2. 25m Bridge and jam the vertical crack above you to the Fig root. Move up past the root(crux) to the Fig tree and struggle through the branches to the ledge.

  3. 20m Chimney up and into the corner/cave. Bridge up the corner and exit by the hole of your choice. You are now on the Creep belay ledge. Climb to the top as for 'Creep'.

FA: R.Clark & Al Stephens, 1981

FFA: Al Stephens & G.Croft, 1981

Trad 70m, 3
19 The Lost World

This climb takes the first pitch of DOC to the first major ledge, then goes straight up the steep corner crack to a ledge of fig trees. Move right around the ledge past a wide to a chimney crack. Up the chimney and into a corner. Take your choice of exits (the easiest being to chimney up onto the Creep belay ledge) and finish as for Creep.

Start: As for D.O.C.

  1. 25m The first pitch of D.O.C. to the first rest ledge,

  2. 25m Bridge and jam the vertical crack above you to the Fig root. Move up past the root(crux) to the Fig tree and struggle through the branches to the ledge.

  3. 20m Chimney up and into the corner/cave. Bridge up the corner and exit by the hole of your choice. You are now on the Creep belay ledge. Climb to the top as for 'Creep'.

FA: R.Clark & Al Stephens, 1981

FFA: Al Stephens & G.Croft, 1981

Trad 70m, 3
22 Get Me To The Church On Time

Start: A ramp just left around the corner from Down On Creation. Scramble up the ramp to a short corner. Sustained and strenuous.

  1. 10m Up the comer to a ledge at the foot of another ramp.

  2. 20m (Crux) Up the ramp, continue left across a short slab, then blast straight up the crack, to the belay ledge of Wedding Bells.

  3. 15m Straight up the open book corner crack (Crux pitch of Wedding Bells).

  4. 30m Up corner cracks (last two pitches of Down On Creation).

FA: T.Balla(Pitch 1) & Al Stephens, 1983

FFA: Al Stephens, Paul Bayne, Larry Dixon & D.Curtis, 1984

Trad 100m, 4
22 Get Me To The Church On Time

Start: A ramp just left around the corner from Down On Creation. Scramble up the ramp to a short corner. Sustained and strenuous.

  1. 10m Up the comer to a ledge at the foot of another ramp.

  2. 20m (Crux) Up the ramp, continue left across a short slab, then blast straight up the crack, to the belay ledge of Wedding Bells.

  3. 15m Straight up the open book corner crack (Crux pitch of Wedding Bells).

  4. 30m Up corner cracks (last two pitches of Down On Creation).

FA: T.Balla(Pitch 1) & Al Stephens, 1983

FFA: Al Stephens, Paul Bayne, Larry Dixon & D.Curtis, 1984

Trad 100m, 4

Showing 1 - 100 out of 199 routes.