Routes by Kalang Kedumba Jones

Sick of sandy slabs and ringbolts? Be a trad lad and try the finger crack between Yoda and Queen or Country. Jam through the bulge to join the arete, finishing as for Yoda at DBB.

Much like the local wildlife, this one’s a screamer (and an excellent reason to visit).

Start calmly up obvious diagonal on east face of buttress. Become daunted by steepness, enjoy a few absolute sinkers then make some noise for the pointy beak of the crack. Claw straight up crimps with less gear (large nut and small cams) and raise your crest triumphantly into easier and mossier ground.

Bomber gear for crux, take care of slab below. Tree anchor.