Showing all 11 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Helter-Skelter
Line left of Able-bodied, Boulder over small roof as for that route to get gear in the obvious flake then head left on little pockets to thin break and gear. Straight up past 2 ring bolts. More gear and a tricky sequence getting established on the slab upper wall and then to anchor on right. FFA: adam demmert & Will Monks, 28 May 2016 | 15m, 2 | |||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Echidna Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Sugar Plum
Easier and airier than it looks. Start up Old Mates for 5m to the base of the main corner. Move R onto orange nose and rock onto blank slab. Continue diagonally R over orange bulges (lots of pro, it’s above you), crossing Gene Vicious, to R end of big roof. Finish direct up clean cut grey dihedral. Wander 5m L to rap rings, or top out. FA: Emily Monks & Will Monks, 11 Apr 2022 | 20m | |||
Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
23 M1 | ★★★ Dance of Life Clean Sweep Connection
Some link-ups are hardly worth recording, but this one is notable because it avoids the cruxy moves of each route, leaving amazing sustained climbing around grade 22 with bomber pro the whole way. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 23 in the Grampians. Follow Dance of Life to the horizontal break 10m below the top, step L 3m, and finish up the lovely well protected blunt arete of Clean Sweep. Needs double ropes to do it in a single (ultraclassic) pitch. Has also been done by going further L along the break to Dinosaurs Don't Dyno. FA: 2004 FA: Will Monks, James Pfrunder & Kevin Lindorff, 2004 | 45m, 1 | |||
Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan North Shore Castle Cove Echo Point | |||||
24 | ★ Legged Snake (Open Project)
FA: Will Monks, 1988 | 8m | |||
Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Vespasian's Wall
1
25
25m
2
33m
Ewbank's original aid line turns out to be an absolute cracker of a free route. A very impressive orange face, originally established as a 2 pitch aid route via a bolt ladder up the guts of the wall to the top by John Ewbank in 1964. Mentioned in old guidebooks (including Ewbank's) as "Vespian's Wall" - but was surely meant to be named after the Roman Emperor who built the Colosseum. Soon after bolting it, Ewbank's anti-bolt sentiment kicked in and he chopped the bolts. Nearly half a century later, this free version lets you marvel at the relics. Start 8m left of Guillotine.
The bolted continuation for another 15-20m to DRB near the top is open, help yourself. Will be 27+, and is increasingly let down by the usual deteriorating rock quality up there. | 58m, 2, 20 | |||
Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge | |||||
26 | ★★ Diamond in the Flesh
As per Jewel Thief to 4th bolt then straight up. Maybe 25, once you work out all the tricks. FFA: Will Monks & Geoff Johnston-Hall, 4 Feb 2017 | 28m, 10 | |||
Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter' | |||||
23 | ★ Harness Ahh-ness
The warmup this crag was missing. Start as for Mono then step R at the ledge; clip then backclean Mono's 1st bolt. FA: Will Monks, 2016 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | ★ Pit Stop
The double overhung arete at the L end of the wall. 5m L of Akimbo. FA: Will Monks, 8 Sep 2020 | 20m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Pit Trip (linkup)
Fun jugging. Pit Stop to the main ledge, traverse R across Akimbo, up Damocles then R again to finish up Problem Child. Put an extender (and maybe a roller) on the 4th bolt, and the next few. FA: Will Monks, 8 Sep 2020 | 25m, 10 | |||
Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Elphinstone Main Wall | |||||
30 | ★★★ Tiger Hook (Linkup)
Tiger Snatch to the crux then diagonally right forever. After doing the Tiger Snatch crux, follow good holds R to join Sitting Bull in the roof. Turn the lip as per Sitting Bull, cross Bandula at the top of the flake, and join Brummel Hook at its 2nd last bolt to the top. Around 2013 Quentin Chastagnier did a similar linkup via a crimpy traverse a few metres higher, called "Le Tigre … " (TBC), grade 31. FFA: Will Monks, 26 May 2019 | 40m | |||
29 | ★★★ Gravitational Wave
An epically long steep quest, never harder than 26ish ... but rarely easier. Joins Elephant Man for the last 2 bolts. Circle around the 2nd last bolt, similar either way. 70m rope isn’t enough to lower off. Redirect(s) essential to make the ledge. FA: Will Monks, 21 Oct 2021 | 45m |
Showing all 11 routes.