Routes

The direct very thin line underneath BB. Stick clip high first bolt and good luck trying to clip the 2nd, if you get to the 3rd bolt it’s all over, finish up BB to top.

Great technical climbing up the wall to a chossy cave before the final layback crux. A Bargo test piece!

Named after the abundant Lambertia Formosa shrub, otherwise known as the Mountain Devil, which is common on the Illawarra Escarpment.

The species name of Formosa also comes from the latin word for beautiful, after the striking red flowers. The Mountain Devil also has a horned, hard spikey seed resembling a Devil.

This route reflects the striking, beautiful, yet hardened nature of it's namesake.

Pitch 1 (crux) - grade 25, is an intricate, steep and technical line up impeccable rock. Don't be put off by the appearance of the rock ! Its super solid impeccable quartzy rock.

Single rack, Nuts are optional, plus additional 0.2 and 0.3 cams (at least doubles but there are options for more), 2 x #1 and 2 x #2 cams and 1 x #4 . 1 U bolt mid-way.

Start up the major crack near the bolted belay at the start of Pitch 3 of Two Boys One Skyhook.

After about 6m venture right onto the wall on super solid rock past many breaks to reach the major break below a high under-cling flake in a shallow corner. Bold but safe moves to gain great gear and rest.

Clip the bolt and head up steepening wall. Pumpy sustained climbing up the wall and finger crack to the right side of the honeycomb cave.

Place a crucial 0.5 AND/OR 0.75 cam in the slot at the top left end of the roof.

Exit the cave from the right up and right onto the headwall, then head back left above your gear. Continue up the wall past chicken heads, threads and large cams - # 4 useful.

Tricky exit to reach the base of the large ledge. Save a #2 and/or #3 for breaks. Use the fixed rope over left to haul up over the loose ledge to double bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 - grade 24, follows an improbable line through the steepest, most overhanging and unlikely headwall on this main section of the crag.

The rock is different and somewhat sandy. While not quite as high quality as pitch 1, 75 m of free hanging exposure and spaced but bomber gear ensures it has its own merits.

Standard rack plus additional 0.2 and 0.3 cams and #4.

Tricky moves up the steep flake right of the belay.

Traverse right under roof #4 and up to U bolt.

Pysch up and launch around roof with strenuous and hard moves between breaks and great gear with a slightly runout but fantastic-protected finish.

Start on the ground to the right of Da Vinci. If damp, start from ledge on Da Vinci and traverse in. Technical crux on slab section then up to steeper orange wall. Sustained, amazing wall.

Start at ledge above Da Vinci (fixed line to access from below). Up slab to crux (left sidepull to break) at start of steepness. Avoid going left into Coolcliff. Very good! Finish as per Coolcliff.

Cool technical climbing up the face, fairly high for the last move so have a few pads! Sit start and make long moves up to the finishing ledge, then traverse easily left and down to descend.

Starting matched on undercling near tree go up to left Gaston then right sidepull move across to the chimney and go up. Doesn't share any holds with Bushmans.

Sit start matched on great edge. Big move up left to the two pockets. Then veer right to top out in the middle of the boulder.

Start sitting at the obvious jugs on the LHS, move across the lip utilising various underclings in the roof to summit via the Big Book LHV. Funky, interesting and unlike anything else in the area that I know of!

The original project before Curds of Prey was found, the huge undercling at the lip looked so inviting. A cool sequence to turn the lip, then traverse left along the juggy red stone to the apex of the cheese wedge. Clip the chains on The Wheel of Cheese, then top out!

Insane! A line of holds just happens to lead into the belly of the big roof, meeting the Big Cheese for the final few moves at the lip. The star destroyer shaped roof is brilliant pocketed sandstone.

Start just left of the Bow Wave belay station. Climb the fridge-like arete then move past rooflet (big undercling) over the lip and up, staying about 3m left of the Titanical arete.

Double bolt belay. Sustained edges forming a cool sequence start this route until you reach a ledge, move right along this to mantle and then up. Theres a bit of a weird bit (bolt #5) where you can go left or right to get to the upper turret, and a hands free ledge. Move left to finish on the lower offs on the right side of the turret.

Rap from Titanical rap station over the southern cliff, use access rungs to move up past big (wet) boulder and onto ledge, you will find a 2 ring bolt belay for this route, which starts left of the belay up an obvious orange flake. Take care to place a decent purple camalot (0.5) before the first crimpy moves (about 5m off the deck). The rest of the gear is bomber, slightly spaced. Double ring bolt to lower off.

Bolt belay left of Gigatonne. Good gear up wonderful crack to start, then make move right and go up with more good cams. Stay right of vegetated ledge and keep going up until a good ledge where a lower off was considered (22 to here). Instead clip a bolt to your right and keep going up the left side of the turret to the anchor (23).

Traverse across the brilliant white rock in an excellent position, crossing the bulge to a fine headwall. Extend the clip on the bolt before the steepness to avoid excessive drag.

Named after a comically named old car tyre found at the base of the crag. "Double Happy" is a Chinese knockoff tyre that is the antithesis of how one would feel if these puppies were all that lay between you and the nearest tree.

NB: Can be accessed by rap in off trees at the top.

The stonking line up an appealing little buttress ( a rare thing here amongst the more common savage corner lines at Bombo).

Up the moderate shared start with Double Happy (left), with good small cams and options for small wires to a bolt.

At mid-height, continue directly up past two U's with techo double arete moves and a desperate finale.

Brilliant rock on the lower wall. The slopey break above the crack can sometimes be damp and slippery, best to accept this as part of the crux..! Access by rapping down Coolcliff and walking around to find access rung to ledge. Start from belay on the left via fixed line over bushy gap (check fixed line is still ok) or do alternate start and traverse into the line (a bit harder than the original start).

Shorter route to the left of Jupiter

Start from the ground, bouldery to ramp then head left to scoopy arete. Keep heading up to balance moves on the primo arete.

Direct finish to Coolcliff, finishing at the anchor shared with the top pitch of Da Vinci. At the upper crux, Coolcliff original line goes right via the bomber hand crack. This direct finish goes left, avoiding the crack via some balancy moves on the streaked orange rock then up to the anchor shared with Da Vinci. Bit harder than the original. *

The original anchors were insalled by Steve Varney, but the line was never climbed. Now has new U bolts for anchors.

The super aesthetic crack about 10 m left of NMTB.

Along with NMTB this is one of the best cracks anywhere. Astounding complex movement, a diabolically cryptic crux. Bomber gear.

Hard moves off the ground to reach the tenuous crack and complex bridging.

Bomber gear although fiddly off the deck.

Start as per Tidal Flexing and join in to Jupiter. Maybe a bit harder and an ounce less classic than the proper start, still does some unique moves on great rock.