Help

Routes

Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:

-

Other filters:

  • Weather
  • Walk in angle
  • Legality
  • Water access
  • Walk in time
  • Steepness
  • Aspect
  • Condition
  • Rock type
  • Style
  • Descent
  • Vegetation
Sort by: Bulk edit (max 100)

Showing 1 - 100 out of 115 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
2000
{FR} 6a+ Peaches and Cream

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith. Slightly tricky and crimpy start, then lovely moves through the middle section. Keep your nerve through the slabby run-out after the last bolt.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sport 22m, 6 Lukenya
{FR} 5c Smooth

Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail. After the last bolt there is about a 5 metre run-out to the anchors, up and left on easy ground but potentially scary and dangerous for beginners.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sport 20m, 4 Lukenya
{FR} 6b+ Turbulence

Start 6 m right of K.L. Corner, move up into a scoop and then after passing the second bolt, move straight up and then left below an overhang, which is pushed through before reaching Happy Birthday Piers Wood. Keep going past the third bolt, even if you're pumped.

FA: Iain Allan, 2000

Sport 25m, 6 Lukenya
1999
E1 5b Edge of Sanity

At left-hand end of crag there is a nettle plant growing about 2m up the cliff. Start 2m right of this, where hard moves lead up slightly left, then a hard move right to a jug. The route then continues straight up keeping about 1m right of the edge, to a horizontal crack. Step left then difficult move up to better holds. Follow arete to good belay tree.

FA: Iain Allan & Nico Michaelides, 1999

Trad 17m Lukenya
{FR} 6a Leap of Faith

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sport 22m, 6 Lukenya
{FR} 6a+ As Good as it Gets

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sport 25m, 6 Lukenya
1991
E3 6a El Duende

This route is hard to beat Sustained, stylish moves in a superb position guarantee it a place at the top of the best there is at Lukenia. It climbs the orange wait of the obvious prow on the right of Window Buttress. Start 6m right of Dream Twister at a corner crack which is easily climbed for 3m to a small ledge on the right. Make the most of this - it is the last rest on the climb. Two small wires (#2 and #3 RP's), can be rigged here to protect the tricky move up to the first bolt. The route veers rightwards below the first bolt then up to the obvious bulging grey wall which is the crux of the route (bolt on right). Above the grey wall, the climb continues with difficulties to the third bolt. Steep, delicate climbing leads directly above to the top.

FA: Iain Allan, 1991

Trad 22m Lukenya
1990
E2 5c Dream Twister

Worth the effort. The pro exists but the final 9m is guaranteed to make the boys shiver in their megas. Take a #0 RP along and save it for after the overhang. Start on left side of cliff beneath obvious flake/crack. Up flake, step left, up slightly then rnantle shelf to good ledge. Move right to orange wall and bolt. Up awkwardly leftwards to ledge below groove. Ignore this and step right to another ledge. The trick is to now reach the steep slab which lies above over the overhang. This is best done by delicately stepping up, then gingerly making a long step leftwards to a srnall sloping ledge on lip of overhang below a thin vertical crack. Climb this (crux) and continue carefully to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Jess Grunblatt, 1990

Trad 22m Lukenya
VS 4c Rear Window

Originally led without the bolt this little climb then packed a wallop. Go up the gully on the right of the Buttress to base of prominent arete immediately right of steep portion of cliff. Start directly below arete which is climbed to horizontal break. Bolt above. Step right, up, then left above bolt to easier ground. Continue left to good position on skyline. Straight up to top.

FA: Iain Allan, Andrew Pinney & Philip Winter, 1990

Trad 20m Lukenya
E4 6a AU:23 Calcutta

The toughest black hole in Kenya...." If we had a four star rating this would warrant the extra star. A beautiful exercise in precision. Start 6m right of Journey Into Space, where an awkward pull up leads to the first bolt. Delicate moves right past a second bolt leads to a difficult step down into the Black Hole. Swing out on wall on right and mantle shelf to ledge and scoop. Pull up bulging wall above to break in overhang. Strenuous moves up overhang (crux), past bolt to difficult exit rightwards. Step right to crack and up to ledge. Easily to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Andrew Pinney, 1990

Trad 25m Lukenya
E3 5c Journeyman

This climb is at the left end of the crag and starts 4m left of Journey Into Space. It is found by locating the prominent grey-coloured flake/jug some 6m up the wall. Easily up 3m to plant-covered ledge. Move left along this until directly below the previously mentioned flake/jug. (It is worth belaying on this plant ledge to protect leader on the first hard moves). Up with difficulty and pull up overhang to reach the prominent jug. Up this leftwards to horizontal crack. Climb up to a good hold and step rightwards across steep wall (crux). Delicate moves rightwards lead to a fairly dynamic move up and across to obvious hole on wall on right. Strenuous move straight up to easier ground and top. The climb is much harder than it appears from the ground. From the first moves off ledge it is unrelenting until the finishing hard move 15m up. Keep a #7 wire ready for the crux.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

Trad 22m Lukenya
E2 5c Journey Into Space

Where are you now Jet Morgan? (Journey Into Space is a BBC Radio science fiction programme written by BBC producer ...... by Tacconi. The 1957 annual included a short story called Jet Morgan and the Space Castaway, written by Chilton and illustrated by Cornwell). This is a gem of a climb, with great variety of moves and superb positions. At the left end of cliff there is an overhang with a diagonal break through it. The route is directly in front of the driver at the point where the road up to Lukenia meets the road which goes along the base of the cliffs. Start below overhang where there is a flake on the ground. Climb 6m to where a rising crack goes up leftwards through the overhang. Hand-traverse up crack, and pull up through lip of overhang onto steep wall. Delicate traverse rightwards (crux), along ledges on lip of overhang, until easier ground is reached 2m right of peg. Climb wall to top bearing slightly leftwards. Bolt pro after the hand traverse.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1990

Trad 25m Lukenya
E2 6a The Joker

Take Arthur's Horror as far as the big block belay below the final pitch. Take the obvious flake up from here and step right to small ledge. Continue up rightwards to a point below bolt. This route thrillingly makes its way up to the right of the bolt, edges leftwards above and up (fixed peg pro), to awkward moves on final few feet of cliff. You'll love every second! Downgrade to E2 6a in 2022.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1990

Trad 60m Lukenya
HVS 5a The Seventh Wave

One of Lukenia's best with a ripper finish. Step left from belay and straight up wall on right of brown streak passing a good thread belay/flake at 12m. Above is a bulging yellow wall which is surmounted from the left by a tricky mantleshelf move onto a good ledge below steepening wall. Step right and move up on good holds until flakes (bolt on left), until forced out unabashedly rightwards and up to finish.

FA: Iain Allan, Philip Winter & Clive Ward, 1990

Trad 25m Lukenya
HVS 5a Drowning in the Shallow End

It has to be admitted that this is a little short on pro, but it is excellent and the few who have led it say provided it is approached with calm and stealth, the need for pro is secondary. Begin 6m right of Bandstand and climb easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. From here up directly to distinct grey ledge at 6m. Awkward move left 1.5m, then up 3m before trending rightwards until directly beneath obvious bulging wall. Straight up bulge (crux), and steep wall above 7.5m to prominent groove. From this point pro is excellent. Climb groove and slightly left to mantleshelf move just below top. Finish up steep wall rightwards on good holds. 2020 edit: It turns out the need for pro wasn't secondary for some - somewhere around 2000 a bolted anchor was added at the grey ledge, with 3 more bolts on the second pitch - the first just above the awkward move left and up and the next two spaced out above.

FA: Iain Allan, Philip Winter & Clive Ward, 1990

Trad 55m Lukenya
E2 5c The Cruel Sea

A journey to remember! The first pitch is the same as Drowning In The Shallow End, rising easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. Climb 6m to distinct grey ledge. Move up slightly rightwards to bulging dark wall where there is excellent pro in a horizontal slot. Climb holds on right where a tricky move reaches easier ground. Move left to obvious crack and easily up to final overhang and bolt. 1m left of bolt there are holds, so grab the current and use these directly through overhang (crux) to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen., 1990

Trad 60m Lukenya
{FR} 5c The Accidental Tourist

Originally climbed in order to show a visiting continental party that small wires can fake you a long way, and bolts are not always necessary. Ironically the Hot Rock team didn't know this had been climbed on wires and accidentally bolted it. It is important to climb this route the correct way and not cheat leftwards only the Finis jugs. Because of this some might say it's a little forced, but this does not detract from the experience. The climb Finis ascends the jug-covered wall 1-2m right of the main corner. This superb route climbs the steep face some 3m right of corner. Start from ledge system some 4.5m up from base of cliff. Some 4m right of corner there are two obvious scoops and the climb starts between them. Up on small holds 6m to prominent overlap. Step right and climb direct to welcoming jug. Straight up on better holds to top. On trad gear originally graded E1 5a. With bolts the sport grade applies.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

Sport 23m, 5 Lukenya
E2 5b The Moronic Inferno

An absolute blaster and intimidating to boot. Start 8m right of Finis corner, where the wall begins to overhang. A bolt can be seen at 6m. Up rightwards to bolt. Cruxy step up left of bolt then right to small niche. Straight up to steep but easier finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1990

Trad 23m Lukenya
1989
E1 5b Waterloo

A delicate exercise in nut placing. This worthy trip takes the left side of the Castle where there is an orange overhang with a steep grey wall above. A 18m doddle up the lower slabs ends at a good belay in horizontal cracks some 5m below the overhang. Up this direct via a slanting flake and the grey wall above is reached by way of a thin vertical crack up on the right. Move up delicately 5m to good pro. Mantelshelf steep wall above and easier ground to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

Trad 43m Lukenya
VS 4c Frogs Attack Maggie

Start 2m left of obvious demarcation between lichen and dark rock. Start on small holds leading to scoops. Direct line continues to horizontal crack at approx. 7.5m (pro), then continues on easier ground to belay.

FA: Magnus Karlsen, Clive Ward & Iain Allan, 1989

Trad 17m Lukenya
HVS 5a Frogs In the Wind

Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top.

FA: Iain Allan, Clive Ward & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

Trad 17m Lukenya
E4 6a Idiot Wind

For stout-hearted bachelors only! Start 6m right of Ride Like The Wind where an obvious root rises from the ground, just left of where the main overhang begins. Move up left to overhang. Bolt up on right. Climb overhang in pain just left of bolt and proceed carefully to horizontal break below main overhang. Move up this just left of bolt, then move right along lip of overhang 2.5m until good jugs lead up to bolt belay above. A rewarding excursion.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1989

Trad 43m Lukenya
E2 5b Gone with the Wind

Start just right of the Cornflakes tree stump where a diagonal edge leads up rightwards. Climb wall on right of edge to base of steep wall. Power up this 1m left of bolt to horizontal break, below overhang. Move up overhang until a series of good jugs leads out horizontally rightwards 3m, and pull through overhang when possible. Climb wall above 3m to bolt belay. Up easy wall above to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Chris Ballard, 1989

Trad 46m Lukenya
E1 5b AU:18 Ride Like the Wind

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

Trad 43m Lukenya
VS 4c Frogman

Probably worth doing if for no other reason than the rare pleasure of climbing a crack at Lukenya. At the left end of Upper Cliffs is a dark bay. The Lizard takes the line up the corner, and immediately left of the bay is a steep wall with an overhang at 4.5m. Left of this is a thin crack. Ascend crack on finger-locks for 10m, then easily up arete to abseil cable.

FA: Iain Allan and'@ianhowell, 1989

Trad 22m Lukenya
VS 4c Pilot of the Storm

Start some 7.5m right of The Joy Of Frogs just left of prominent tree. Strenuous pull up over bulge (it is a crime to touch tree), then up slightly left to steep wall. Mantle shelf up this then up to belay ledge at 25m. Either traverse left to abseil cable or make long rising traverse up rightwards to top of cliff.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1989

Trad 46m Lukenya
HS 4c Stormbringer *

Start about 4.5m right of Pilot Of The Storm. Easily up to flake at 4.5m then surmount overhanging wall above on good jugs. Up slightly rightwards on easier rock to belay. Finish as for Pilot Of The Storm.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1989

Trad 46m Lukenya
E1 5b Conan the Frog

Start 2.5m right of The Hair Of The Frog where there is an obvious jam crack up through the overhang. Climb crack to tree stump of The Lizard. Move directly above past horizontal crack and crux move up overhang (bolt). Exit left onto wall 1.5m above bolt, step up, then traverse right 2m and easier ground above to abseil cable.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1989

Trad 23m Lukenya
{FR} 6a+ The Hair of the Frog

The ultimate package! About 3m right of Frogman there is a break through the overhang. Layback overhang and cruxy move onto wall. Up to bolt on right. Step left then up to horizontal crack. Step left and continue strenuously leftwards.

2020 edit: This was originally given the grade of E3 5c, but at some point many bolts were added, essentially making this a sport climb with a few metres of easy traditional climbing at the top. The grade has been changed to a sport grade to reflect this. Do still take a few cams and nuts to protect the top after the last bolt.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1989

Trad 23m Lukenya
E1 5b The Joy of Frogs

Start on big block some 7.5m right of The Lizard. The route is just right of the arete. Climb to bulge at 4.5m (bolt), then hard moves up right to jug. Pull up to scoop. Up slightly leftwards, then up to ledge and belay. You are now some 4.5 right of the point where difficulties end on The Lizard. Traverse left to abseil cable.

FA: Iain Allan, Neil Hodgson & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

Trad 23m Lukenya
E3 5c Traitor's Gate

Probably Lukenia's best. It makes its way up the left side of the left-hand of the two main overhangs, surmounts this then strings together four or five mind-inspiring moves across the wall above. You can look for difficulties in the first pitch but it is easier to simply take 'The Keep' as far as the first belay. A long pitch follows. Move rightwards to the obvious quartz-hole on 'The Keep', then right a few moves and up past a bolt to easier ground below the left-hand overhang. The remainder of the climb is the crux and includes pulling over the overhang past a bolt on the left, up a move, then traverse 5m rightwards across the steep wall above the overhang. Easily to belay.

FA: Iain Allan & Magnus Karlsen, 1989

Trad 55m Lukenya
1988
E2 6a Hit and Run

The steep corner some 6m right of Matatu. Five fierce moves up thin crackline past bolt on right, leads to blank wall. Cruxy move right then easier step left below small roof. Over roof on good holds and to top.

FA: Iain Allan, 1988

Trad 16m Lukenya
HVS 5a Golden Rivet

This route ascends the steep wall and arete between Boiler Plate and Bandana. Start just left of Bandana where a difficult move leads left to a good hold. Move straight up to where pro can be placed above right end of overlap. Step right and up steep lichen wall to good jug. Mantle shelf. Move up right and ascend wall left of grassy Bandana gully with difficulty.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

Trad 25m Lukenya
VS 4b Freeway

A short way up the gully right of Hit and Run there is an obvious scoop near the ground. Up to this, then harder move out of scoop, and straight up to top.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

Trad 16m Lukenya
HVS 5a Blue Train

About 6m right of Junction there is a chimney crack above the ground. Climb easily up this to the righthand end of the Junction ledge, some 2m right of bolt. Move up right above obvious "pigeon-hole" (crux), then straight up wall above.

FA: Iain Allan & Clive Ward, 1988

Trad 25m Lukenya
1982
{AU} 16 Royal Hunt of the Sun

FA: Iain Allan & Niall McHugh, 1982

Trad Natorbe
1981
HS Covenant

Climb a chimney, step L and shortly move back R into chimney; go up for 3m., move L onto the arete and up to small cave stance (35m.).

The chimney to a platform at top (20m.);

the L wall can be climbed in the middle section of this pitch. Step R (thread runner) and climb a quartz band, moving R on slabbier ground to belay block on nose (20m.).

Now L across slabs, then easier rock leads to ridge (30m.).

Var: the quartz band can be climbed direct (excellent, V I-). Follow ridge across a crevice to base of the final step.

Either climb this (The Link), or scramble down a gully on L for 40m. to a tree on the R wall, from where a 45m. abseil leads into South Gully. It is also possible to abseil down the climb itself.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1981

Trad 110m Kichwa Tembo
1980
{UIAA} 6- Ivory Comer

Named after an elephant tusk found by the first party. Mainly straightforward, airy on the last 2 pitches and vegetated on the pitches in the comer. Easy belaying and an obvious line. Brief description:

Start 20m. L of central grassy bay at a groove with tree. Climb crack for 65m., vegetated in parts, till the L wall overhangs; take an overhanging jamming crack (crux), keeping out on the slabby R wall wherever possible. Easy chim­neys above lead to the upper sections of the corner where the chimney becomes unpleasantly wide and is adorned with hornets nests. From just below the highest tree in corner proper, traverse L then move up into a bay. Trend R to a small R-facing comer and climb this to a belay. Take the crack above to top. From a tree near the finish several abseils down the comer lead to the bottom.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1980

Trad 200m Elephant Rocks
1978
E1 5b Sailing

A totally manky exercise, which is satisfying for the masochist but useless for the quality-seeker. Start about 15m right of Calcutta in an area obvious for its dripping greenery, beneath a bush which grows 6m up the face. Climb to stump then right via horizontal crack to good jug which enables corner to be gained. Up this then step right to ledge. Traverse left 3m and climb directly to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1978

Trad 31m Lukenya
E1 5b Astronaut

Start as for Le Pelley's Variation and climb the first 15m of this route to the foot of the crack. Now traverse 4m further right to where an obvious leftwards-rising diedre is reached. Climb the wall immediately on left of diedre, which is very hard at the start but gradually becomes easier until a position is reached below the prominent orange-coloured roof. Climb roof direct some 4m right of the chimney at the end of Le Pelley's Variation.

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1978

Trad 45m Lukenya
E4 Vampire

Start about 15 m left of 'Isis' where a prominent bulging narrow grey column rises some 12 m. The first pitch ascends the obvious groove immediately right of this column.

  1. 25 m Move up easily for 9 m to small roof. Step left around roof (1 aid nut), and up groove to top of column.

  2. 40 m Move to ledge on right. Straight up to overhang. Climb overhang (peg runner low down and 1 aid nut on lip), into steep corner. Up corner 5 m (peg runner), then move left and up to ledge. Move right and swing around good edge and pull up to easier ground.

  3. 30 m Move right round corner and onto big vegetated ledges. Traverse right 15 m along this until good cracks can be seen above. Up this to good belay ledge on left. (Same as last belay on 'Isis').

  4. 30 m Move left 9 m to large broken corner. Finish up this. Seriousness: 3

FA: Doug Scott & Iain Allan, 1976

FFA: Henry Barber & Iain Allan, 1978

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
1977
E1 5b Corpse

Start right of Cemetery corner until corner/chimney. Layback up leftwards to groove, up this a bit then break out onto right wall by way of steeper groove. Move up to slab and finish on left.

FA: Greg Mortimer, Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Trad 22m Lukenya
VS 5a Norman Bates

This climb is basically an improved direct finish to Cemetery Corner. Ascend Cemetery Corner until the end of the chimney and the obvious roof. Instead of moving out left, continue up the steep polished wall just left of corner to overhang. Surmount this right-wards.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1977

Trad 22m Lukenya
HVS A1 First Aid

Start between 'Future Shock' and 'Juggernaut'.

  1. 37 m Rising traverse leftwards leads to a difficult move into a sharp 'V' groove. Up groove 2 m then straight up (3 aid moves), and continue to good stance on right.

  2. 24 m Traverse left across steep wall to small ledge. Continue left under overhang. Surmount overhangs leftwards with aid. Move left into groove then up to belay below large overhanging corner.

  3. 12 m Straight up overhanging corner on aid to good belay below final pitch.

  4. 37 m Move to last pitch of 'Future Shock' and finish by way of this. (The belays on this route are all shared with 'Juggernaut’. The first part of Pitch 2 is reversing the final section of the first pitch of 'Juggernaut') Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Trad 110m Hell's Gate
E1 Merlin

Start 9 m left of 'Exterminator'.

  1. 12 m Move up wall 5 m then traverse left to crack on right side of prominent column. Ascend crack to good ledge right of column.

  2. 15 m Move right 3 m to thin crack then follow this to bulge. Climb over bulge (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut) to good belay ledge on right.

  3. 18 m Climb thin crack directly above belay on aid nuts and two pegs. The thin crack ends in a groove which is climbed free to belay. (This is the same belay as the one at the end of Pitch 2 of Exterminator).

  4. 18 m Follow Pitch 3 of 'Exterminator' to its belay. At this point 'Exterminator' traverses off leftwards. Instead of doing this continue up the steepening corner (1 aid nut), until a move can be made onto a ledge on the right. Move up to good belay ledge.

  5. 37 m Straight above belay to obvious finish.

Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Trad 100m Hell's Gate
VS Poseidon

To the left of 'Centaur' and about 30 m up there is an obvious roof with a white streaked wall beneath it. The first pitch of 'Poseidon' reaches this wall from the left. Start about 15 m left of 'Centaur' at an obvious corner to the right of an obsidian capped pedestal.

  1. 27 m Move up broken rock then climb groove to reach obvious small tree. Step right and climb another groove to slab. Traverse 20' right to belay on white wall beneath roof. Peg belay.

  2. 15 m Move right to corner. Step down and cross steep wall, then up rightwards to broken ground. Up this to belay below steepening. Peg belay in place.

  3. 25 m Move right to corner. Climb narrow edge 10' left of corner and up to flake. Step left off flake to slab. Move left a few feet then up crack and traverse left across another slab to gain ledge. Cross wide gap and pull up to higher ledge beneath chimney crack. Peg belay in place.

  4. 12 m Climb chimney to belay ledge. Peg belay.

  5. 21 m Step down right to sloping ledge 1 aid peg). Now move up to square ledges on right edge (1 aid peg). Up easily to start of thin crack. Climb this (all aid) for 50' to ledge on right. Peg belay.

  6. 25 m Up right crack (3 aid nuts), then step left to ledge. Climb up easily to big ledges beneath the headwall. Peg belay.

  7. 37 m The way through the headwall is up a break to the left where there are perched blocks covered in bird dirt. Move left to gain blocks (peg runner). Up onto these then move up rightwards past two unstable blocks to gain slab. Up slab making rightwards, then back left to easier ground. Belay in cave. Finish by walking off to the right. (The last part of Pitch 7 joins 'Centaur' at the end of the final traverse of 'Centaur'.) Seriousness: 4

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Trad 160m Hell's Gate
1976
VS Badlands

This is the crack/groove some 6m right of the first pitch of 'Vertigo'. Move to foot of groove from the right. Climb the main crack which becomes easier with height. Move left at top to join 'Vertigo' at ledge at the top of first pitch. Seriousness: 2

FA: Iain Allan, Brian Thomas & Mark Savage, 1976

Trad 30m Hell's Gate
VS The Squeeker

This route takes the obvious wide chimney crack in the middle of the buttress. The grade of the route varies greatly and is almost totally dependent on the width of the person. Start just left of 'After the Gold Rush' at a narrow undercut jam crack in a slight recess.

  1. 25 m Up crack then right up ramp to groove/ corner. Climb this, step right at its top and up to belay below main feature.

  2. 25 m Ascend wide crack and chockstone above. Finish up gully of 'Executioner'. Seriousness: 3

FA: Mark Savage & Iain Allan, 1976

Trad 50m Hell's Gate
VS A1 The Magic Beanstalk

Start just left of Quo Vadis where an obvious white barked tree grows approximately 6m up. Scramble up and belay here.

  1. 18 m. Move up columns and cracks on right to a good ledge.

  2. 18 m. Move up left to steep wall. Gain wall (2 aid pegs). Step left from pegs and continue to groove. Ascend groove for 8 m to belay on narrow ledges beneath bulge.

  3. 30 m. Ascend steep crack which leads to bulging overhang. Move over this (2 aid pegs, 1 aid nut), onto steep ground. Straight up for 6m until it is possible to make right for a ledge. Peg belay.

  4. The climb now moves rightwards to join Pitch 4 of Quo Vadis, which is followed to the top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Dave MacMullan & Iain Allan, 1976

Trad 68m Hell's Gate
E1 Sickle

About 30 m left of 'The Big Corner' there is a prominent roof curving up rightwards from the ground. Further left is a similar feature. Start just right of this point.

  1. 30 m Climb up 6 m then traverse right across wall (peg runner) for 9 m and step right into corner and ledge beneath groove. Climb groove (1 aid nut), to crack and ascend blocks to good belay.

  2. 43 m Move up 3 m then traverse right for 12 m to projecting ledge. Using this swing rightwards to corner with steep wall above. Climb wall direct to broken rock and belay.

  3. 24 m Move up right for a few feet then back left across lip of overhang to corner (peg runner). Move left onto loose wall (1 aid peg), then straight up to finish. Seriousness: 4

FA: Paul Braithwaite, Doug Scott & Iain Allan, 1976

Trad 100m Hell's Gate
E4 Vampire

Start about 15 m left of 'Isis' where a prominent bulging narrow grey column rises some 12 m. The first pitch ascends the obvious groove immediately right of this column.

  1. 25 m Move up easily for 9 m to small roof. Step left around roof (1 aid nut), and up groove to top of column.

  2. 40 m Move to ledge on right. Straight up to overhang. Climb overhang (peg runner low down and 1 aid nut on lip), into steep corner. Up corner 5 m (peg runner), then move left and up to ledge. Move right and swing around good edge and pull up to easier ground.

  3. 30 m Move right round corner and onto big vegetated ledges. Traverse right 15 m along this until good cracks can be seen above. Up this to good belay ledge on left. (Same as last belay on 'Isis').

  4. 30 m Move left 9 m to large broken corner. Finish up this. Seriousness: 3

FA: Doug Scott & Iain Allan, 1976

FFA: Henry Barber & Iain Allan, 1978

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
E2 Icarus

Start some 15 m left of Vertigo where broken rock leads up to an obvious finger of rock at 10 m.

  1. 27 m. The finger is reached by a rising line from the right. From the top of finger step up left then move right to niche. A steep narrow crack above leads to a good jug, from which two hard moves are made up to groove. Climb groove (2 aid pegs, 2 peg runners), then free to belay on sloping ledge below overhang.

  2. 25 m. Move up left to obvious ledges then up right over grass bulge to niche. Climb overhang (2 aid pegs), then move right along sloping ledge 2 m to slab. Move up slab (peg runner), then move up left to belay on grassy ledges.

  3. 38 m. Traverse right 6 m into vegetated groove. Up this to obvious corner. Swing right onto arete and move up rightwards making for prominent tree. Belay here.

  4. 30 m. Directly behind the tree there is a small cave. Take the headwall above this. Good holds lead up rightwards for 6m. Move up left 6 m and surmount bulge. Now up lichen rock and traverse right to obvious pointed flake. Step right, then back left and up to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Mark Savage, Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1976

FFA: Alex Fiksman, 2011

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
E1 The Go-Between

Between 'Caiaphas' and 'The Amazing Journey' there is a steep groove at 18 m splitting the overhang. This route climbs this feature. Start 6 m left of 'The Amazing Journey' at a groove leading up to a grey column on the right.

  1. 25 m Climb groove and step right to ledge. Up wide crack on left of grey column for 6 m then step right beneath bulge. Climb bulge

  2. (1 aid peg), then up left, round arete and traverse 2 m to ledge. Move up to foot of steep groove/chute splitting overhangs. Belay on sloping ledge.

  3. 15 m Chimney up until it is possible to step right to ledges (1 aid peg). Move right a few feet then up to broken ground. Move up right to belay on grassy ledge.

  4. 18 m Up over blocks on right to wide crack at back of pedestal. Climb this and traverse left over broken blocks to main terrace and belay.

  5. 15 m Move easily to steep wall with a thin crack on the left and another on the right. Climb right crack straight up to flake on right. Traverse right across this flake and up to belay.

  6. 37 m Move up rightwards to final wall. Climb this at obvious break, moving left when possible. Up to short brown wall which is taken direct to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Mark Savage & Iain Allan, 1976

Trad 110m Hell's Gate
VS Capital Punishment

To the left of the 'Caiaphas' section of the Left End there is a prominent overhanging area with a steep slab beneath it. Splitting the overhang is an obvious white corner with a large flake jutting from it. The route goes up the slab then follows this corner. Start 24 m left of Caiaphas.

  1. 37 m Move up left to steep crack. Up this then swing left to ledge. Step left to another ledge. Move up right then back left to groove. Ascend groove to sloping ledge beneath slab, (peg runner on slab). Traverse left a few feet along grassy ledge to the start of thin crack. Climb this (5 aid pegs), to belay below foot of big corner.

  2. 24 m Up left to foot of corner. Up this past flakes to overhang. Step right past bolt and round to ledge. Step right to corner. Up this to good ledge and belays. (8 aid nuts, 6 aid pegs and 1 bolt were used on this pitch).

  3. Move up right to ledge. Step right around corner and up to thin crack. Climb up (peg runner), then traverse left 3 m to better rock. Up past tree to top. Seriousness: 5

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1976

Trad 98m Hell's Gate
{SA} UIAA:6- Gladiator

The R side of buttress climbed by Daphne's Delight. Start 35m R of Daphne's Delight and some 6m. R of a groove leading to a tree with grey roots 30m. above the ground. A thin start leads to good holds which are followed R-wards for 15m. Then a rising traverse L to a tree in a groove (35m.). Climb groove using roots for 10m., then traverse R along sloping ledge to a thin crack; climb this and walls above to tree (30m.). Traverse 6m. L and go up to tree at foot of steep crack; take this and at end step L to blocks, then L again round lichen arete, moving up to a wide diagonal crack rising L. Climb crack and sloping ledges above to terrace (35m.). Ignore a wide gully straight above terrace. Look to buttress on R of the gully. Ascend L arete of buttress for 6m. then traverse R to obvious ear-shaped flake. Now move up L then directly in middle of buttress to a tree (25m.). Behind the belay climb a chock-filled gully for about 15m. to its top at a ledge. A steep thin crack splits the wall on L; climb this with considerable difficulty for 15m. until good holds appear on a lichen bulge. Move up bulge L-wards to grassy terrace (35m.).

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1976

Trad Soitpus
1975
VS Fear of Flying

This route is a spectacular traverse across the lip of the large grey-streaked overhanging area left of 'Dog-Leg'. Above the overhang there is a prominent steep brown wall. The climb is a right to left traverse under this wall. Walk round to the top of the Left End (allow twenty minutes), and the descent point to the start of the traverse is 15 m left (directions facing cliff) of where the Left End rises to the Central Wall.

  1. 25 m Descend a fairly easy gully down the right side of the brown wall to a good belay point at the start of the traverse. Peg belays.

  2. 18 m Traverse left along lip to a belay 1 edge at grass patch.

  3. 24 m Continue traversing and move round corner to start of ramp system leading downwards. Descend ramp then move onto another ramp which leads to edge of overhang. From lowest point step left onto block and up wall above to good belay in vultures nest.

  4. 15 m Traverse left 6 m then up and right to belay below gully.

  5. 25 m Finish by way of ramp on left of gully. A selection of pegs (mostly thin blades and small angles) should be carried for protection purposes on Pitch 3. There are few natural runner placements on this pitch.

This route can be joined from the last pitch of ‘Gimme Shelter’. Seriousness: 5

FA: Iain Allan & Brian Thomas, 1975

Trad 110m Hell's Gate
HVS A1 High Noon

Some 18 m left of Stiletto and about 20 m up the cliff, there is a big obvious down-pointing grey flake wedged between two columns. The climb makes for this flake from the right. Start about 24 m left of Stiletto, to the left of a bush-filled groove where a thin crack splits the wall.

  1. 28 m Climb thin crack for 6 m to where it bulges. Move up bulge (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg), to where its possible to make a wide step right to small ledges. Up slightly then move left (1 aid peg)[freed], to good ledge by grass clump. Ascend corner (peg runner), then step left to small ledge. Now climb over bulge above to foot of good crack. Climb crack for 5 m then hand-traverse left and descend to big ledge on top of flake.

  2. 28 m Move up cracks above right side of ledge for a few feet then climb wall on left to good ledge. Move left along this ledge to small groove and climb this (peg runner), to bulges. Make obvious traverse right across wall to big groove. Climb this, avoiding prominent pointed flake [this was stood on when freed], to overhang. Surmount overhang (3 aid pegs), to slab above. Up slab until steep wall is reached (peg runner), then traverse right across slabs for 6 m and descend into groove. Peg belays set up high. [All freed]

  3. 30 m Traverse right to left corner of big wall. Climb corner for 9 m (2 peg runners), then ascend rightwards (4 aid pegs), to obvious vegetated ledges on top of wall. Peg belays around corner on Stiletto. [Freed, no pegs removed. About AUS 20-21 grade of difficulty on the traverse. At the start of traverse move high on the block(left side) then stem across (a full split maybe required on this pitch)]

  4. 9 m Move up final section of Pitch 3 of Stiletto to final stance of that route.

  5. 37 m Climb last pitch of Stiletto. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

FFA: Alex Fiksman, 2006

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
HVS A3 Zeus

Approximately 30 m left of 'Stiletto' and about 30 m up, there is a prominent wide crack splitting a brown wall beneath a belt of overhangs. This wide crack is entered by a rising traverse in from the right. Start beneath the crack and slightly right at a recess.

  1. 28 m Move up 3 m then traverse left across grooves to a series of blocks. Climb up these making for an obvious groove directly above, which is capped by a vertical narrow crack. Climb groove, (peg runner), and 6 m up crack (3 aid nuts) to a hanging belay 3 m below where crack finishes.

  2. 28 m Move a few feet up crack, then tension leftwards off a high nut to gain foot of wide crack. Climb crack (1 aid nut at 30'), to top and belay on sloping ledge on left. Chain anchor in place.

  3. 27 m This pitch is entirely aid. Surmount large overhang by groove up on right. Numerous thin pegs and four bolts lead to the lip of overhang, then move leftwards up wall on bad pegs to belay ledge. Bolt belay and dubious pegs.

  4. 43 m Move left up ramp to wall with crack. Up this (2 aid pegs), then up slightly right to niche (peg runners). Move left to broken rock and ascend until an awkward move leads right into a groove. Up groove (5 aid pegs), to a hanging belay 6 m below top of groove.

  5. 27 m Up to top of groove (3 aid pegs and 1 aid nut), then swing out left onto steep broken rock above. Finish rightwards. Seriousness: 6

FA: Ian Howell, Mark Savage & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 150m Hell's Gate
E3 Sorcerer

Start 5 m left of 'Magician'. The first belay on this route is shared with 'Magician'.

  1. 25 m Easily up broken rock to cracked overhang, with a large block stuck underneath.Up this block to steep thin crack above. Up this to ledge. Move up right (1 aid peg), to stance below tree.

  2. 30 m Move up leftwards to traverse line leading left to thin crack. Up crack and round roof above (4 aid nuts), to obvious open groove. Up groove (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut), to ledges up on left.

  3. 30 m Move to large pale corner and ascend 5 m until a traverse line right can be taken. Move down right (peg runner), and round arete into a groove. Up groove (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut), to ledges up on right.

  4. 40 m Climb up steep corner. A peg in a hole on the left wall makes it possible to move leftwards to arete and ledges. Move up leftwards then trend right to top. Seriousness: 4

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
VS A1 Magician

Start below the prominent grey-rooted tree and slightly right.

  1. 22 m Up easily for 9 m (peg runner), then left and up to overhang. Climb overhang by way of a steep square-cut groove (1 aid nut and 1 aid thread). Up groove a few feet to a belay below and to the left of tree.

  2. 27 m Up right through tree to slab. Up slab moving right into groove and up to good ledges on right. Step back left and up twin cracks to a belay on sloping ledge on right. Nut belay.

  3. 30 m Step down left then traverse round corner into niche. Traverse left round next corner then up broken rock to overhangs, (peg runner). Move left a few feet to foot of large pale corner. Up this 20' to reach first peg. Up to good ledge on left (2 aid moves). Follow this to arete and belay round corner.

  4. 43 m Up 6 m then left across steep wall to ledges. Round corner then up to obvious corner. Follow this to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
HVS A1 The Undertaker

Between Beelzebub and Quo Vadis there is a prominent big corner. The route climbs up this keeping on the wall to the left.

  1. 37 m. Start up the corner and work left when forced to. A high peg is used to pendulum further left into a crack below a flake. Up this and onto flake (two aid pegs). Move right with difficulty to a crack which is ascended past a block. Up the corner and move left to belay. Peg belay.

  2. 25 m. Move up directly behind belay (1 aid peg) and gain the corner crack. Move left into niche, then left to slab. Descend this and move round corner on left and into slot. Up this to a grassy ledge. Step right and up to stance and belay on right.

  3. 30 m. Move left slightly and up steep rock. Move right and gain ledge from where one can move right (peg runner), round a corner and up slabs to grassy terrace.

  4. 42 m. Move left and finish up the last pitch of Quo Vadis. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
E3 AU:21 Stage Fright

This route ascends the obvious tramline cracks about 30 m left of The Devil Drives. The left crack is wider and is capped by a triangular block.

  1. 27 m. Move up to the foot of cracks and into right hand crack when possible. Up this for 12 m until a move left can be made into the wider crack. Up this to belay on block on left (peg belay).

  2. 27 m. Step right to thin crack and up to roof. Move right under roof (1 aid peg), then lower off nut to gain obvious crack low down on the steep right wall. Up crack (1 aid nut), then step left to corner (1 aid peg), and sloping ledge. Up onto large ledge above and belay. Freed by H Barber - Step right to thin crack and continue traversing right to niche below headwall.

  3. 28 m. Move up then traverse left around corner and descend slightly to ramp. Follow this to steeper wall which is climbed to broken ground. Scramble off right. Seriousness: 5

FFA: Henry Barber

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 82m Hell's Gate
VS The Amazing Journey

This route begins approximately 91 m left of the prominent overhanging area. It is easy to find for at this particular section the wall is less steep with a broken area some 46 m up from the ground. The route starts 12 m right of 'Caiaphas' where a prominent crack begins at 3 m.

  1. 30 m Up to crack which leads to ledges on left. Move up towards bulge but take the obvious traverse line leading off right below it. Continue along traverse for 12 m to an arete. Tension around this (peg in place), then step right and up to small ledge with good belay.

  2. 6 m Move right then up to obvious ledge.

  3. 30 m Move up slightly then traverse left 9 m to large grassy ledge. Gain groove up on right by way of a short steep wall, and climb groove for 12 m and step right to belay under wide crack.

  4. 18 m Climb crack for 6 m then step along sloping shelf. Descend 3 m onto large ledge with tree.

  5. 37 m Along ledge to crack. Up this moving slightly right at top. Then step left and up to ledge. Move easily right and finish up left. Seriousness: 2

FA: Iain Allan, John Cheesmond & Alan Walker, 1975

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
VS AU:18 Days of Future Passed

Start about 12 m right of Stiletto at thin crack.

  1. 40 m Up crack for 9 m. Over blocks to continuation of crack. Up this and move slightly right to ledge. Climb wide crack above then left around corner to another thin crack. Up this and left to ledge.

  2. 40 m Traverse right 6 m then up groove to easier rock and broken terrace. Move right around corner and up thin crack to a steep shattered wall. Up this to recess and belay. Peg belays.

  3. 40 m Up and left then straight up to obvious line leading to shattered cave. Traverse left for 9 m from cave then up wall to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Dave Cheesmond & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
1974
HVS Executioner

Start between 'After the Gold Rush' and 'Border Lord'. This route follows the handsome single crack to the left of the 'After the Gold Rush' tramline cracks.

  1. 31 m Rising easy traverse leftwards to ledge system and belay below wide crack.

  2. 37 m Step right across small gap (as for 'After the Gold Rush'), and move straight up to thin crack. Up this then right to the continuation of this crack. Up steeply to the 'guillotine', where a rest can be had off an in situ bong (rotten). Over this large flake till a move left can be made to a ledge.

  3. Take the easy line up the gully to top of buttress. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1974

Trad 68m Hell's Gate
HVS Border Lord

Start below the right-hand green tree some 24 m right of 'After the Gold Rush'.

  1. 31 m Up to tree. Climb slab above then step left onto arete. Up this to small triangular ledge and belays.

  2. 25 m Ascend crack above for 12 m then move round left and swing into crack below grassy ledge. Up onto this and belay.

  3. 12 m Climb right-hand crack over chocks to top. Seriousness: 2

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1974

Trad 68m Hell's Gate
S Penny Lane

On the left of buttress there is a bush some 3 m up cliff with a good crack on right. The cliff is undercut beneath this crack.

  1. 28 m Enter crack from left and follow to edge. Continue up overcoming some easy bulges and move right to belay ledge below wide crack.

  2. 12 m Ascend wide prominent crack splitting wall on left. Belay on top of this pedestal.

  3. 25 m Move up corner for 3 m then step left, up, and back rightwards and up to easy ground.

  4. 18 m Easily to top of buttress. Seriousness: 2

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1974

Trad 83m Hell's Gate
HVS Hot Rock

This route takes the twin tramline cracks immediately left of the main wide crack of 'The Squeeker'. Start about 12 m right of 'After the Gold Rush' at a green tree growing some feet up the cliff.

  1. 28 m Up groove then left to tree. Above tree then left along slab. Climb up to good belay below wide crack.

  2. 30 m Ignore wide crack but step left to foot of twin cracks. Ascend these until blocks are reached on left. Move into left crack and continue to easier groove and belay above.

  3. 19 m Move easily to top of buttress. Seriousness: 2

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1974

Trad 77m Hell's Gate
HVS A1 Beelzebub

About 15 m left of Stage Fright there is a roof some 10 m off the ground. Start here. Scrambling from the right brings one to a good ledge and belay 5 m below the roof.

  1. 37 m. Move left to crack below left side of roof. Up this and over bulge to holds. Traverse left along block ledges to recess. Move left across wall on small holds to buttress with a good wide crack in it. Up this to good ledge beneath the overhangs. Peg belay.

  2. 24 m. Descend right from ledge and traverse far right across slab. Back left and up groove to overhang. Up this (1 aid peg), then wide step left and around flake to ledge. Up a few feet then left to crack which is followed to grassy terrace.

  3. 30 m. Traverse left 6m to break. Up this 3 m then move right on good holds and up to ledge system. Move right to blocks below wall. Up this to niche. Peg belay. 4) 12 m. Move up left to ledge (peg runner), then step right and finish above. Seriousness: 3

FA: Tony Charlton & Iain Allan, 1974

Trad 100m Hell's Gate
{UIAA} 6- Planet Route

100m. of slabs lead to the fault proper. Halfway up slabs, note a long roof with large tree at its R-hand end. 2 pitches reach the tree, the last moves being the crux. Above tree gain the upper slab and make a long L- trending traverse, bolt runner near end. Walk up through trees till the fault can be entered on R. Traverse L below an overhang (bolt just Rof crack). Fine chimney climbing follows. The final section to the summit is forested. On the 1st ascent skulls were found in a cave on the summit.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1974

Trad 300m Kasigau
1973
HVS Black Widow

About 9 m left of the Black Panther cracks there is an obvious small roof at 24 m with a groove beneath it. Enter groove from the left and climb to roof. Step right under roof and move to cracks. Climb steeply up cracks to ledge. Most parties belay here. Straight up cracks and chimney to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1973

Trad 43m Hell's Gate
HS Nose of Nzaui

The climb is best reached by abseil from the summit. Scramble down the nose to an easy slab. A short piece of rope attached to the lowest tree can provide an abseil point above a vertical drop. Thus a long abseil from the bottom of the easy slab lands on a vegetated terrace. Walk 50m, south turn right and go down to the lowest tree above an overhanging wall; thus a long abseil can be made to slabs below. 2 more long abseils bearing slightly north lead to bottom. Equipment left in place for abseiling might hopefully be retrieved on the way up, or you may be lucky and find Ian Howell's wire cable and sling abseil points. The bottom can be reached by a less pleasant gully south of the vegetated terrace, followed by a long traverse along foot of the cliff. Continue north below a prominent great red overhang and after a grassy bay the foot of the slabs is reached.

An easy slab near tree, then a short bulge to a wide grassy terrace. The slabs proper start above (30m). A hard move is made to get up a short steep wall to gain a ledge by a difficult step right. Move across ledge right-wards to a small tree; now climb straight up past a small ledge to excellent gargoyle belays on the wall above; semi-hanging stance (40m), rope sling. Either traverse steeply down and right, or go down to a tiny ledge and hence gain a sweep of undulating slabs to right. Go up these, first trending right, then left. Finally move left and up to tiny trees on a ledge system above; a totally unprotected pitch (45m, IV), wire cable. Aim diagonally right to gain a tree belay below an overhanging red wall (40m).

Traverse left then gain with difficulty a higher slab level. Climb to a tiny corner just left of the overhanging wall, at top of the slab. Take corner to finish awkwardly on grass left (40m), wire cable.

A scramble follows to the vegetated final step on the nose. Climb a left-trending line of weakness, then straight up to reach 2 bolt belays; do not trend right on any part of this pitch (30m). Now go up diagonally right over a very steep wall to easy slab finish (25m).

Hardly any equipment need be carried on this climb as there is little opportunity to use it. Pegs are of no assistance.

(source Andrew Wielochowski)

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1973

Trad 250m Nzaui
S A2 Velindra

Start in orange corner to right of Leaper, below obvious thin crack leading up to left.

  1. 15m. Five aid moves up crack lead to tension traverse left onto good holds on the arete. Up wall above to ledge, then move right to cave and belay.

  2. 15m. Move left to skyline ‘nose’, up corner then swing left onto arete. Easy climbing to summit.

FA: Iain Allan & B. Thomas, 1973

Trad 30m Lukenya
{UIAA} 5+ West Diagonal

The first route to tackle the main cliff. Initially it follows the prominent fault cutting cliff from bottom L to top R. The upper half takes a chimney and gullies to the summit. The fault itself is an immense system of vegetated gullies; it has been climbed in its entirety (V). The first 150m. of R. 115 uses easy slabs R of the main fault till a horizontal ledge system is reached; above this is a steepening wall. Descend and cross (V) to L side of gully. Now a crack is followed on the extreme L of gully till a ledge is reached (biv. site on 1st ascent). A slab Rof the crack is climbed till a traverse L rejoins the crack. Fine chimney climbing follows for 100m. until further progress looks uninviting. Make an exposed traverse R across buttress on the R to enter a small gully and follow this to summit; there are 2 crux pitches (V) in this section; on the 1st ascent some aid was used on both.

FA: Iain Allan & M.Savage, 1973

Trad 600m Longido
1972
The Mandarin

Climbs the crack which splits the two sheer faces to the left of the main buttress of Nzaui.

FA: Barry Cliff & Mike Pardoe, 1963

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1972

Mixed trad 230m, 8, 3 Nzaui
VS Goliath

Start 12 m left of 'Caiaphas'. Ascend twin cracks for 3 m then swing left to sloping ledge. Traverse left 3 m to corner with loose flake. Up this then swing left to good ledge. Move up to crack and up this moving left under bulge at top. Up groove to broken rock and belay. 'Caiaphas' can be joined by traversing up rightwards. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1972

Trad 37m Hell's Gate
VS AU:16 The Devil Drives

At the extreme right end of the Main Wall there is an obvious corner where the cliff bends sharply into Entrance Wall. This route makes its way up to the left of the corner. Start below the prominent nose by a large detached block.

  1. 25 m. Climb onto block then up steep crack to ledge. Follow crack above until it is possible to step right, then up blocks to good belay.

  2. 25 m. Climb above belay and step right to ledge. Now up to higher ledge, from where a traverse leads left for 5 m to a crack. Up this and belay on a detached block. Peg belay.

  3. 30 m. Straight up slabs above for 10 m to recess (peg runner). Descend a few feet then traverse left across steep wall to crack. Up this to ledge then finish up broken rock to the right. Seriousness: 3

FA: Iain Allan & Alan Walker 24/9/72, 1972

Trad 80m Hell's Gate
HVS A2 The Zebra Wall

About 30 m left of 'Olympian' there is an obvious large grassy terrace about 30 m up the cliff. Start slightly right of this.

  1. 37 m Climb wall bearing diagonally left to a grassy terrace and belay below prominent crack which is capped by a roof at 12 m.

  2. 37 m Climb crack with aid then up behind roof to exit above chimney and belay on sloping ledge. Used No 4 & 5 BD cams

  3. 27 m Climb slab on left to foot of crack. Up crack with aid. Poor gear and loose rock.

  4. 15 mClimb crack then left to ledge. Up left to belay. Loose rock

  5. 46 m Descend to big ledge on left to terrace. Along this to vegetated gully and up to large chockstone belay on top of pillar.

  6. 18 m Climb up right by crack to belay in niche.

  7. 34 m Climb thin crack up on right with aid. Seriousness: 4

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1972

FFA: Alex Fiksman & John Train, 2005

Trad 210m Hell's Gate
E1 After the Gold Rush

Start below the Gold Rush Buttress. This route ascends the buttress and the steep headwall above. Start in the centre of buttress where there is a recess with white streaks at 9 m.

  1. 24 m Up middle of recess then step right at 3 m. Straight up then move left around corner. Move up chimney to sloping ledges which are climbed until a traverse right can be made to good belays by block.

  2. 44 m Wide step right from belay then round corner to foot of crack. Up crack then further right to tramline cracks. Up these to broken groove and continue to ridge.

  3. 18 m Move easily to top of buttress.

  4. 18 m Up wide crack behind and at 15 m move right to ledge and belay.

  5. 31 m Move along ledge to tramline cracks which are climbed to roof. Over this (2 aid pegs), then free climb slab above. Move left to arete and belay 5 m left of this. Peg belays.

  6. 18 m Move left then up broken rock to crack. Belay on top of this.

  7. 31 m Move left up broken rock to top. Seriousness: 5

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1972

Trad 180m Hell's Gate
E4 Future Shock

Some 9 m left of 'Exterminator' there is a fairly obvious grey pillar/column with a crack splitting it. The pillar leans up rightwards from the foot of the cliff and is where the route begins. Chipped arrow and 'FS' marks start.

  1. 34 m Up crack to ledge at top of pillar. Climb wall a few feet then move left (peg runner), round a corner and mantleshelf up to another ledge. Move up slightly right then left along a ledge beneath an overhang. From left end of this sloping ledge lower 1.5 m off a peg to gain corner and belay.

  2. 30 m Up steep slabs to right of wall (2 aid pegs), then swing left to ledge. Step left then straight up to overhanging crack. Climb crack (3 aid pegs), and step right and up to belay.

  3. 37 m Move up right to block then up left to broken shell-like rock. Move left over this to foot of steep crack. Climb this and move right and up to belay ledge.

  4. 21 m Easily up broken rock to top. (This route joins 'Juggernaut' at the foot of the steep crack on Pitch 3). Seriousness: 3

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1972

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
VS Gimme Shelter

This route starts about 30 m left of 'Dogsbody', to the right of the obvious big grey-streaked overhanging area. A small pedestal marks the start.

  1. 24 m From top of pedestal ascend crack for 15 m then step right onto slab. Up 3 m to overhang and move rightwards (peg runners), across slab and around corner to niche. Peg relay.

  2. 24 m Move left off ledge and up groove to block. Swing left onto ledge round corner, then traverse leftwards across sloping ledges for 3 m. Up wall to good horizontal crack, and move up leftwards (or rightwards) to belay on sloping ledge.

  3. 23 m Up and over bulge (1 aid peg), and up to crack above. Traverse right 20' to wide crack splitting large block. Climb crack and relay above.

  4. 30 m Traverse right along obvious line and make move round a corner. Ascend rib and move right into niche. Up wall to good ledge. Peg belay.

  5. 37 m Up finishing gully moving rightwards at top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Phil Snyder & Iain Allan, 1972

Trad 140m Hell's Gate
HVS Caiaphas

In the middle of this broken area of the Left End there is a short steep layback crack rising from the ground for 5 m. This is the start of the route. A chipped arrow and 'C1' mark the start.

  1. 38 m Up thin crack, step right across wall and pull up onto ledge. Up right then back left to groove and swing round detached block. Up to bulge (peg runner beneath bulge). Strenuously over bulge and up crack to small ledge. Move up 3 m and take traverse line leading left. Move round into corner and pull up onto ledge behind shrub. Climb up to good belay in recess. Peg belay in place.

  2. 24 m Climb round left wall and easily up 9 m to obvious steep crack. Up this 30' then move right to belay in chimney.

  3. 33 m Traverse left along ledges to cave. Up left wall of cave to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Iain Allan & Mark Savage, 1972

Trad 95m Hell's Gate
E1 Olympian

To the left of the highest overhanging section of the Main Wall is an obvious large flake. It is probably one of the most prominent features on the cliff and is located some 30 m below the top, with the shadow of a wide chimney on its right side and a green tree growing from its lip. The route starts directly below this flake at the foot of an obvious corner crack with a bulge at 15 m.

Often done with aid on the crux pitch, then HVS A1.

  1. 31 m Climb wall on right then cross left to a crack at 9 m. Move up crack and surmount bulge to ledge. Climb tramline cracks to belay ledge .

  2. 31 m Move up easily to steep wall. Climb wall then move left to crack. Up this and over protruding flake into chimney which is climbed to ledge.

  3. 18 m Easily up rising traverse left to a large cave.

  4. 25 m Now a long traverse right begins across ledges to crack. Climb crack to big ledge.

  5. 21 m Along ledge to steep left crack which is climbed free for 12 m to ledge.

  6. 25 m Move right and up chimney to groove. Climb this to ledge below flake.

  7. 24 m Moving down right turn the flake and enter chimney which is climbed to top.

  8. 15 m Rising traverse left to finish.

Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell, Iain Allan, Phil Snyder & Robin Harper, 1972

FFA: Joe Friend & party, 1974

Trad 190m Hell's Gate
1971
VS Epar

Moving left around from the East Rib, there is an obvious small cave at the foot of the face.

  1. 18 m Climb up over cave and traverse right through a little vegetation to slabs. Above are two obvious cracklines. The right crack is the final, part of the East Rib route; Epar takes the bulging left hand crack. Belay below this.

  2. 19 m Climb overhang with difficulty, then up steep crack above and layback onto ledge. Climb steep crack above, then step right, and up to summit.

FA: Iain Allan & C. Wilson, 1967

FFA: Iain Allan & B. Black, 1971

Trad 37m Hell's Gate
1968
VS The Gasper

Start 5 m right of Gasper Vagrant.

  1. 18 m Climb up over grassy bulges then left and climb crack to a ledge. Make a difficult, slightly descending traverse to another ledge below a chockstone crack. This is climbed to a ledge belay.

  2. 37 m Climb an easy chimney (here the climb joins Kindergarden Grooves), then move right over slab to an independent line, and then up the steepening wall to a sandy ledge.

  3. 6 m Move up slightly and traverse right along sloping ledges, then climb the steep wall above.

FA: Iain Allan & J.Sinclair, 1968

Trad 61m Hell's Gate
{SA} 22 Bloodline

Start at a yellow wall where the cliff bulges out from a blunt rib. Painted "BO". Climb ramp to steep wall and peg up crack for 15 m to ledge in notch. Continue pegging over roof and traverse right 3 m to ledge. Belay. Now free to top, first right and then straight up.

FA: R.F.Higgins & Iain Allan, 1968

FFA: A. Fiksman, 8 Nov 2012

Trad 54m Hell's Gate
S A1 Desperation Row

Start about 180 m right of Bloodline, below a tree at 3 m, Painted "DR". Up to tree then left to block ledge. A peg is now necessary to move up and over to the right into a crack by a flake. Move up rightwards towards broken gully and then the wall on the left end of a large grassy ledge. There is a crack above and a buttress on the left; climb this buttress to the top.

FA: Iain Allan & J.Sinclair, 1968

Trad 54m Hell's Gate
S The Tish

Start a couple of metres right of O, by a painted "T". Climb wall on left of pillar by using a nut sling to where the rock bulges and the wall on the right has large cracks. Move up this wall by making a long leg stretch over onto a block ledge. Traverse left to foot of crack mentioned at the end of Desperation Row. Climb this to top.

FA: Iain Allan & J.Sinclair, 1968

Trad 54m Hell's Gate
E2 5c The Rood

The obvious square corner on the left of the face has now been climbed free. Not as good as it looks. Hard start up corner leads to very difficult bridging at 9m. A mantleshelf enables easier climbing to be reached 6m below top.

FA: Iain Allan, Roger Higgins & Chris Wilson, 1968

Trad 25m Lukenya
S Chaos

This is on the South-East corner of Central Tower, ie., the side away from the road. An obvious rib runs up this side. Climb the rib till a sloping ledge bends right to a platform. Climb steep rocks on rib which is followed up to ledge below slabs. Follow the slabs keeping left under overhang, then move round the overhang on the right and up steep slabs to the summit. (Pegs used for protection).

FA: Iain Allan, R. Higgins & Ian Howell, 1968

Trad 60m Hell's Gate
VS Sickle

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1968

Trad 45m Natorbe
HVS AU:19 Vertigo

Start about 12 m left of 'Quo Vadis' where there is a steep buttress with fine cracks splitting it.

  1. 40 m. Climb up left side of semi-detached column until it is possible to stand on top of it. Move rightwards over wall to foot of crack which is climbed direct to belay.

  2. 42 m. Move up corner to overhang. Over this to flake then move up leftwards to grassy terrace.

  3. 40 m. Move left to obvious corner crack, which is entered with difficulty and followed to top. (On the first ascent of this route Pitch 1 was done with aid. The first free ascent of this pitch was done on 2/1/77 by Iain Allan and Dave MacMullan ) Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1968

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
VS A2 Arual

Just to the right of the crag's highest part, the cliff dips. Start at foot directly beneath the dip and to the right of a purple-coloured rock. (Arrow and painted "A"). The route ascends the groove to the left and beneath point of roof. Climb to foot of roof using one peg for aid. Now peg round right point of roof and up groove to the left. Peg belay at top of this groove. Now hard moves can be made up to the left. Peg right, where a pull up can be made to a sloping ledge. Now move up ledge and step right to good ledge. Climb easier rock above to a prominent flake and step right into vegetated crack. Now climb up to top, an etrier being used to surmount final overhang.

FA: Iain Allan & A.Walker, 1968

Trad 40m Hell's Gate
E2 5b Princes Street

Intimidating. For many years it was neglected owing to a reputation for lack of pro. Now it has excellent bolt pro. No harder than 'The Keep' but possibly more variety and atmosphere. The route rises steeply to the vertical wall below the left-hand overhang, traverses rightwards across this then surmounts wall in between overhangs in a marvellous position. The original start began left of the start of 'Committee Wall' and climbed the steep wall leading the the left-hand crack of the Committee Wall flake. This is not too hard but unprotected. Many parties will probably take 'Committee Wall' as far as the belay on top of the flake. From here move up leftwards to a bolt, then up with increasing difficulty to a second bolt. Step down right (crux), then up and continue rightwards to easier ground. Move up to foot of wall between overhangs. Bolt on left. Ascend wall with difficulty and hand-traverse right to ledge. Finish easily.

FA: Iain Allan & Roger Higgins, 1968

Trad 55m Lukenya
VS AU:17 Stiletto

The highest section of the Main Wall is steep, pale and overhangs at the top. Just right of the top an obvious gully descends the cliff for 30 m. The climb starts immediately below this in a steep groove to the left of a grey column. Pegs should not be carried on this route.

  1. 30 m Climb crack until a move right can be made onto a ledge. Move along this and belay in niche up on right.

  2. 30 m Up slightly then step right on buttress and up to ledge. Move up left then back right to steep black wall which is climbed to belay at triangular flake.

  3. 25 m Up ramp and ridge to belay below overhangs.

  4. 37 m (THIS PITCH HAS CHANGED) From in situ belay peg, traverse 2 m left to break leading up through overhangs. Now traverse right across slabs to finishing gully. Seriousness: 3

FA: Iain Allan & Chris Wilson, 1968

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
HS Bandana

About 8m to the right of Boiler Plate there is a steep vegetated crack. Climb through tree then up crack to steep bulge (crux), continue up grass to top.

FA: Iain Allan & H. Smith, 1968

Trad 23m Lukenya
VD Diag

Start at foot of Cobblestones. Climb gully and belay at top. Traverse left and climb to last pitch of Arthur’s Horror finishing just right of this.

FA: Iain Allan & C. Wilson, 1968

Trad 120m Lukenya
1967
VS Epar

Moving left around from the East Rib, there is an obvious small cave at the foot of the face.

  1. 18 m Climb up over cave and traverse right through a little vegetation to slabs. Above are two obvious cracklines. The right crack is the final, part of the East Rib route; Epar takes the bulging left hand crack. Belay below this.

  2. 19 m Climb overhang with difficulty, then up steep crack above and layback onto ledge. Climb steep crack above, then step right, and up to summit.

FA: Iain Allan & C. Wilson, 1967

FFA: Iain Allan & B. Black, 1971

Trad 37m Hell's Gate
VS A1 The Ragged Line

A girdle. Start at foot of groove on Normal Route. Go anti-clockwise. Climb groove then branch right onto slabs. Follow up to ledge about 6 m below the top. Descend crack and swing right into ledge. Abseil 6 m (down Epar crux crack), to platform and belay. Now down sloping ledges and follow horizontal crack to vertical peg crack. Climb this to triangular belay flake. Traverse into North Groove, and follow Recompense out of groove on right to tree. Bridge up to overhang, swing right and traverse right to lichen slabs. Ascend 3 m to belay. Descend crack to platform and traverse right below big overhang and make awkward move onto sloping ledge below bulge. Use high peg to lower to platform. Up ramp on right and across to big tree.

FA: Iain Allan & R. Higgins, 1967

Trad 92m Hell's Gate
HVS A1 Quo Vadis

First climb done on the main wall (excluding Dog Leg). The climb starts from the highest point of the base of the grey cliffs. At 30 m above and to the left is a prominent green tree. Two old rusty pegs mark the start.

  1. 25 m. Move diagonally right to a crack which is followed until a short traverse left leads to a good stance and belay.

  2. 25 m. Step left and up a steep corner to bulge. Over this (aid peg), then step right and up to sloping ledge beneath overhangs. Peg belay.

  3. 15 m. More left to good hold on the edge of slab, then further across to the steep rib which is climbed to easier ground. Up right to belays.

  4. 30 m. Climb broken rock bearing rightwards and up to the big grassy terrace.

  5. 30 m. Up leftwards to a little shelf and a leftward sloping slab. Climb slab and a short wall to ledges and flakes. Move left to recess.

  6. 6 m. Move up rightwards and finish above. Seriousness: 3

FA: Iain Allan, Peter Sutcliffe & Chris Wilson, 1967

Trad 130m Hell's Gate

Showing 1 - 100 out of 115 routes.