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Showing all 81 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
2000
{FR} 6a+ Peaches and Cream

To the immediate right of Leap of Faith. Slightly tricky and crimpy start, then lovely moves through the middle section. Keep your nerve through the slabby run-out after the last bolt.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sport 22m, 6 Lukenya
{FR} 5c Smooth

Start about 5 feet to the right of a flake-like boulder that is separated from the main face. Move up and left to the crux at the second bolt showing faith in friction. After that, left into a scoop and then up to rail. After the last bolt there is about a 5 metre run-out to the anchors, up and left on easy ground but potentially scary and dangerous for beginners.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 2000

Sport 20m, 4 Lukenya
1999
{FR} 6a+ As Good as it Gets

Same start into the scoop as Turbulence, but at the second bolt keep moving rightwards and up. A beautiful route.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sport 25m, 6 Lukenya
{FR} 6a Leap of Faith

Start about 6m right of As Good As It Gets, leap for first hold (or opt for a stylish start if you can!) and then up into scoop. Move up leftwards, then direct to finish.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1999

Sport 22m, 6 Lukenya
1989
VS 4c Pilot of the Storm

Start some 7.5m right of The Joy Of Frogs just left of prominent tree. Strenuous pull up over bulge (it is a crime to touch tree), then up slightly left to steep wall. Mantle shelf up this then up to belay ledge at 25m. Either traverse left to abseil cable or make long rising traverse up rightwards to top of cliff.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1989

Trad 46m Lukenya
HS 4c Stormbringer *

Start about 4.5m right of Pilot Of The Storm. Easily up to flake at 4.5m then surmount overhanging wall above on good jugs. Up slightly rightwards on easier rock to belay. Finish as for Pilot Of The Storm.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1989

Trad 46m Lukenya
1982
VS 4c Golden Anniversary

The best easiest way up the Castle, and superior to Committee Wall. Ian Howell first climbed it in 1982 but to this day can't remember who his second was. Some parties belay half-way up in the Committee Wall 'keyhole', but this might not be the best belay in the world. It can be done in one long pitch, but watch your pro carefully for the last thing you want on the final moves is rope-drag. The climb takes the East face of the Castle and starts in a gully where there is a leaning block below and right of the Committee Wall 'keyhole'. From block move up leftwards past a bolt, step left and continue leftwards to the arete. Straight up to 'keyhole'. Move up rightwards some 6m and gain a prominent ledge system which leads up diagonally leftwards. Hold your breath and traverse left along this (crux), until holds allow an exit above.

FA: Ian Howell & ?, 1982

Trad 46m Lukenya
1981
HS Covenant

Climb a chimney, step L and shortly move back R into chimney; go up for 3m., move L onto the arete and up to small cave stance (35m.).

The chimney to a platform at top (20m.);

the L wall can be climbed in the middle section of this pitch. Step R (thread runner) and climb a quartz band, moving R on slabbier ground to belay block on nose (20m.).

Now L across slabs, then easier rock leads to ridge (30m.).

Var: the quartz band can be climbed direct (excellent, V I-). Follow ridge across a crevice to base of the final step.

Either climb this (The Link), or scramble down a gully on L for 40m. to a tree on the R wall, from where a 45m. abseil leads into South Gully. It is also possible to abseil down the climb itself.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1981

Trad 110m Kichwa Tembo
E2 Mastodon

Mastadon and Behemoth are situated on the E face proper. Both provide excellent wall climbing rarely exceeding V -. Belays and protection however need a lot of care. A small selection of pegs is recommended for Mastadon.

Start R of the biv. boulders, where a tree 1 0 m. up has roots hanging down to the ground. Climb the roots then a chimney to a small niche (35m.). Go up to a overhang, traverse 3m. R onto a blunt arete and follow this to a steepening. Traverse back L to a corner (30m.). Go back R then up diagonally R till a line of holds is taken diagonally L (hard), then a wall to a small L-facing comer and hanging belay below a ledge (30m.). From ledge go L then 5m. direct to big holds. So L again (difficult) to runners, then up 2m. and L again. Several more L-then- up moves lead to a ramp which crosses face from L to R. Belay on ramp, L of a thin semi-detached rock pillar, pegs (40m.). Climb ramp to a good ledge(45m.). Go up diagonally L across slabs to top of a second, higher ramp line; block belay (25m.). Move up then R following an arching crack to reach a grassy overhang; surmount this (hard) to base of a chimney cutting the headwall (25m.). Climb chimney to small ledge (35m.). The chimney narrows to a crack; bridge over narrowing into a niche (runners), step onto L wall and climb a slab above trending L (45m.). A sustained and poorly protected pitch.

FA: Andrew Wielochowski, P.O'Sullivan, Ian Howell & R.Corkhill, 1981

Trad 310m Kichwa Tembo
1980
{UIAA} 6- Ivory Comer

Named after an elephant tusk found by the first party. Mainly straightforward, airy on the last 2 pitches and vegetated on the pitches in the comer. Easy belaying and an obvious line. Brief description:

Start 20m. L of central grassy bay at a groove with tree. Climb crack for 65m., vegetated in parts, till the L wall overhangs; take an overhanging jamming crack (crux), keeping out on the slabby R wall wherever possible. Easy chim­neys above lead to the upper sections of the corner where the chimney becomes unpleasantly wide and is adorned with hornets nests. From just below the highest tree in corner proper, traverse L then move up into a bay. Trend R to a small R-facing comer and climb this to a belay. Take the crack above to top. From a tree near the finish several abseils down the comer lead to the bottom.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1980

Trad 200m Elephant Rocks
1978
E1 5b Sailing

A totally manky exercise, which is satisfying for the masochist but useless for the quality-seeker. Start about 15m right of Calcutta in an area obvious for its dripping greenery, beneath a bush which grows 6m up the face. Climb to stump then right via horizontal crack to good jug which enables corner to be gained. Up this then step right to ledge. Traverse left 3m and climb directly to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1978

Trad 31m Lukenya
1977
E2 5b The Keep

A brilliant climb which takes the main South face of the Castle. Start right of a flake on the ground an 50' of easy climbing leads to a point where the lower slab meets the steepening wall. A long pitch leads up right to the right-hand side of a flake, then up aot a prominent quartz-hole. Traverse diagonally leftwards to an obvious niche, then move right and up a cruzy wall to a horizontal crack (fixed peg pro on right). Move left to wall below bolt and make difficult move up to obvious finishing groove. Easier to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Brian Thomas, 1977

Mixed trad 55m, 3 Lukenya
E1 5b Corpse

Start right of Cemetery corner until corner/chimney. Layback up leftwards to groove, up this a bit then break out onto right wall by way of steeper groove. Move up to slab and finish on left.

FA: Greg Mortimer, Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Trad 22m Lukenya
VS 5a Norman Bates

This climb is basically an improved direct finish to Cemetery Corner. Ascend Cemetery Corner until the end of the chimney and the obvious roof. Instead of moving out left, continue up the steep polished wall just left of corner to overhang. Surmount this right-wards.

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1977

Trad 22m Lukenya
HVS A1 First Aid

Start between 'Future Shock' and 'Juggernaut'.

  1. 37 m Rising traverse leftwards leads to a difficult move into a sharp 'V' groove. Up groove 2 m then straight up (3 aid moves), and continue to good stance on right.

  2. 24 m Traverse left across steep wall to small ledge. Continue left under overhang. Surmount overhangs leftwards with aid. Move left into groove then up to belay below large overhanging corner.

  3. 12 m Straight up overhanging corner on aid to good belay below final pitch.

  4. 37 m Move to last pitch of 'Future Shock' and finish by way of this. (The belays on this route are all shared with 'Juggernaut’. The first part of Pitch 2 is reversing the final section of the first pitch of 'Juggernaut') Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Trad 110m Hell's Gate
E1 Merlin

Start 9 m left of 'Exterminator'.

  1. 12 m Move up wall 5 m then traverse left to crack on right side of prominent column. Ascend crack to good ledge right of column.

  2. 15 m Move right 3 m to thin crack then follow this to bulge. Climb over bulge (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut) to good belay ledge on right.

  3. 18 m Climb thin crack directly above belay on aid nuts and two pegs. The thin crack ends in a groove which is climbed free to belay. (This is the same belay as the one at the end of Pitch 2 of Exterminator).

  4. 18 m Follow Pitch 3 of 'Exterminator' to its belay. At this point 'Exterminator' traverses off leftwards. Instead of doing this continue up the steepening corner (1 aid nut), until a move can be made onto a ledge on the right. Move up to good belay ledge. 5 37 m Straight above belay to obvious finish. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Trad 100m Hell's Gate
VS Poseidon

To the left of 'Centaur' and about 30 m up there is an obvious roof with a white streaked wall beneath it. The first pitch of 'Poseidon' reaches this wall from the left. Start about 15 m left of 'Centaur' at an obvious corner to the right of an obsidian capped pedestal.

  1. 27 m Move up broken rock then climb groove to reach obvious small tree. Step right and climb another groove to slab. Traverse 20' right to belay on white wall beneath roof. Peg belay.

  2. 15 m Move right to corner. Step down and cross steep wall, then up rightwards to broken ground. Up this to belay below steepening. Peg belay in place.

  3. 25 m Move right to corner. Climb narrow edge 10' left of corner and up to flake. Step left off flake to slab. Move left a few feet then up crack and traverse left across another slab to gain ledge. Cross wide gap and pull up to higher ledge beneath chimney crack. Peg belay in place.

  4. 12 m Climb chimney to belay ledge. Peg belay.

  5. 21 m Step down right to sloping ledge 1 aid peg). Now move up to square ledges on right edge (1 aid peg). Up easily to start of thin crack. Climb this (all aid) for 50' to ledge on right. Peg belay.

  6. 25 m Up right crack (3 aid nuts), then step left to ledge. Climb up easily to big ledges beneath the headwall. Peg belay.

  7. 37 m The way through the headwall is up a break to the left where there are perched blocks covered in bird dirt. Move left to gain blocks (peg runner). Up onto these then move up rightwards past two unstable blocks to gain slab. Up slab making rightwards, then back left to easier ground. Belay in cave. Finish by walking off to the right. (The last part of Pitch 7 joins 'Centaur' at the end of the final traverse of 'Centaur'.) Seriousness: 4

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1977

Trad 160m Hell's Gate
1976
E1 A1 Happy Birthday Uncle Sam

Begin in the recess immediately left of the Gold Rush Buttress.

  1. 34 m Mount the blocks with an awkward step to the left. Gain good ledge. Ascend poor rock to small ledge. Peg belays.

  2. 18 m The broken groove is climbed with difficulty, then move left (1 aid move), to poor holds. Up these to start of good crack and small ledge belay.

  3. 15 m Climb the twin cracks to below roofs (2 aid moves), to a hanging belay in right crack.

  4. 15 m Move up to roof then work horizontally left (mainly aid), around corner and down slightly to small eyrie and belay.

  5. 16 m Move up (1 aid nut) with difficulty and slightly left to groove. Up groove to belay on right.

  6. 46 m Work left (1 aid move), over awkward step then left to corner. Up this with difficulty and join the final section of 'Time Slip'. Seriousness: 5

FA: John Temple & Ian Howell, 1976

Trad 140m Hell's Gate
HVS A1 Starboard

Start beneath the obvious prow in the centre of the crag. Move to a point 11 m right of the actual nose. Peg in place.

  1. 16 m Up for a few feet then traverse left and up the nose to a small sloping niche.

  2. 37 m Descend left on steep slabs and reverse mantleshelf to lower level (no aid), move left to crack. Up this (2 aid points), to block. Move left to groove and up this to good holds. Follow these to cracks. Move left to arete and up to good ledges and belays.

  3. 37 m Up broken rocks and good corner crack to top.

FA: Ian Howell & John Temple, 1976

Trad 90m Hell's Gate
E2 Icarus

Start some 15 m left of Vertigo where broken rock leads up to an obvious finger of rock at 10 m.

  1. 27 m. The finger is reached by a rising line from the right. From the top of finger step up left then move right to niche. A steep narrow crack above leads to a good jug, from which two hard moves are made up to groove. Climb groove (2 aid pegs, 2 peg runners), then free to belay on sloping ledge below overhang.

  2. 25 m. Move up left to obvious ledges then up right over grass bulge to niche. Climb overhang (2 aid pegs), then move right along sloping ledge 2 m to slab. Move up slab (peg runner), then move up left to belay on grassy ledges.

  3. 38 m. Traverse right 6 m into vegetated groove. Up this to obvious corner. Swing right onto arete and move up rightwards making for prominent tree. Belay here.

  4. 30 m. Directly behind the tree there is a small cave. Take the headwall above this. Good holds lead up rightwards for 6m. Move up left 6 m and surmount bulge. Now up lichen rock and traverse right to obvious pointed flake. Step right, then back left and up to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Mark Savage, Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1976

FFA: Alex Fiksman, 2011

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
VS Capital Punishment

To the left of the 'Caiaphas' section of the Left End there is a prominent overhanging area with a steep slab beneath it. Splitting the overhang is an obvious white corner with a large flake jutting from it. The route goes up the slab then follows this corner. Start 24 m left of Caiaphas.

  1. 37 m Move up left to steep crack. Up this then swing left to ledge. Step left to another ledge. Move up right then back left to groove. Ascend groove to sloping ledge beneath slab, (peg runner on slab). Traverse left a few feet along grassy ledge to the start of thin crack. Climb this (5 aid pegs), to belay below foot of big corner.

  2. 24 m Up left to foot of corner. Up this past flakes to overhang. Step right past bolt and round to ledge. Step right to corner. Up this to good ledge and belays. (8 aid nuts, 6 aid pegs and 1 bolt were used on this pitch).

  3. Move up right to ledge. Step right around corner and up to thin crack. Climb up (peg runner), then traverse left 3 m to better rock. Up past tree to top. Seriousness: 5

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1976

Trad 98m Hell's Gate
1975
HVS A1 High Noon

Some 18 m left of Stiletto and about 20 m up the cliff, there is a big obvious down-pointing grey flake wedged between two columns. The climb makes for this flake from the right. Start about 24 m left of Stiletto, to the left of a bush-filled groove where a thin crack splits the wall.

  1. 28 m Climb thin crack for 6 m to where it bulges. Move up bulge (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg), to where its possible to make a wide step right to small ledges. Up slightly then move left (1 aid peg)[freed], to good ledge by grass clump. Ascend corner (peg runner), then step left to small ledge. Now climb over bulge above to foot of good crack. Climb crack for 5 m then hand-traverse left and descend to big ledge on top of flake.

  2. 28 m Move up cracks above right side of ledge for a few feet then climb wall on left to good ledge. Move left along this ledge to small groove and climb this (peg runner), to bulges. Make obvious traverse right across wall to big groove. Climb this, avoiding prominent pointed flake [this was stood on when freed], to overhang. Surmount overhang (3 aid pegs), to slab above. Up slab until steep wall is reached (peg runner), then traverse right across slabs for 6 m and descend into groove. Peg belays set up high. [All freed]

  3. 30 m Traverse right to left corner of big wall. Climb corner for 9 m (2 peg runners), then ascend rightwards (4 aid pegs), to obvious vegetated ledges on top of wall. Peg belays around corner on Stiletto. [Freed, no pegs removed. About AUS 20-21 grade of difficulty on the traverse. At the start of traverse move high on the block(left side) then stem across (a full split maybe required on this pitch)]

  4. 9 m Move up final section of Pitch 3 of Stiletto to final stance of that route.

  5. 37 m Climb last pitch of Stiletto. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

FFA: Alex Fiksman, 2006

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
HVS A3 Zeus

Approximately 30 m left of 'Stiletto' and about 30 m up, there is a prominent wide crack splitting a brown wall beneath a belt of overhangs. This wide crack is entered by a rising traverse in from the right. Start beneath the crack and slightly right at a recess.

  1. 28 m Move up 3 m then traverse left across grooves to a series of blocks. Climb up these making for an obvious groove directly above, which is capped by a vertical narrow crack. Climb groove, (peg runner), and 6 m up crack (3 aid nuts) to a hanging belay 3 m below where crack finishes.

  2. 28 m Move a few feet up crack, then tension leftwards off a high nut to gain foot of wide crack. Climb crack (1 aid nut at 30'), to top and belay on sloping ledge on left. Chain anchor in place.

  3. 27 m This pitch is entirely aid. Surmount large overhang by groove up on right. Numerous thin pegs and four bolts lead to the lip of overhang, then move leftwards up wall on bad pegs to belay ledge. Bolt belay and dubious pegs.

  4. 43 m Move left up ramp to wall with crack. Up this (2 aid pegs), then up slightly right to niche (peg runners). Move left to broken rock and ascend until an awkward move leads right into a groove. Up groove (5 aid pegs), to a hanging belay 6 m below top of groove.

  5. 27 m Up to top of groove (3 aid pegs and 1 aid nut), then swing out left onto steep broken rock above. Finish rightwards. Seriousness: 6

FA: Ian Howell, Mark Savage & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 150m Hell's Gate
E3 Sorcerer

Start 5 m left of 'Magician'. The first belay on this route is shared with 'Magician'.

  1. 25 m Easily up broken rock to cracked overhang, with a large block stuck underneath.Up this block to steep thin crack above. Up this to ledge. Move up right (1 aid peg), to stance below tree.

  2. 30 m Move up leftwards to traverse line leading left to thin crack. Up crack and round roof above (4 aid nuts), to obvious open groove. Up groove (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut), to ledges up on left.

  3. 30 m Move to large pale corner and ascend 5 m until a traverse line right can be taken. Move down right (peg runner), and round arete into a groove. Up groove (1 aid peg and 1 aid nut), to ledges up on right.

  4. 40 m Climb up steep corner. A peg in a hole on the left wall makes it possible to move leftwards to arete and ledges. Move up leftwards then trend right to top. Seriousness: 4

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
E1 5b The Big Corner

About 30 m left of 'Juggernaut' there is an obvious pale-coloured corner which starts about 30 m up the face. Start below here at a small recess.

  1. 31 m Move up 3 m then traverse right to blocks. Up these making slightly leftwards to prominent finger of rock pointing at the ground. Move up right of rock-finger (peg runner), and climb to cracks and big ledge on top of block. Traverse left 6 m to a groove. Up this and climb bulge above. Now move up leftwards to a belay on arete beneath big corner. Peg belays.

  2. 31 m Move up 5 m to overhang. Climb this and move up slab above to start of groove (peg runner). Traverse left into corner and up this to make a difficult exit left at the top onto a ledge.

  3. 38 m Step right off ledge and pass obvious flake. Continue right and up diagonal crack (2 aid nuts). Move into recess at the top. Up broken rock to top. Seriousness: 4

FA: Robin Harper & Ian Howell, 1975

Trad 100m Hell's Gate
VS A1 Magician

Start below the prominent grey-rooted tree and slightly right.

  1. 22 m Up easily for 9 m (peg runner), then left and up to overhang. Climb overhang by way of a steep square-cut groove (1 aid nut and 1 aid thread). Up groove a few feet to a belay below and to the left of tree.

  2. 27 m Up right through tree to slab. Up slab moving right into groove and up to good ledges on right. Step back left and up twin cracks to a belay on sloping ledge on right. Nut belay.

  3. 30 m Step down left then traverse round corner into niche. Traverse left round next corner then up broken rock to overhangs, (peg runner). Move left a few feet to foot of large pale corner. Up this 20' to reach first peg. Up to good ledge on left (2 aid moves). Follow this to arete and belay round corner.

  4. 43 m Up 6 m then left across steep wall to ledges. Round corner then up to obvious corner. Follow this to top. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
E4 Andromeda

The big crack system some 30 m right of 'Olympian' on the left side of a large bottomless buttress. The climb enters the obvious crack on the fourth pitch. Before this the route takes a less obvious crack system slightly left. Start about 30 m right of 'Olympian', below the left end of a line of overhangs at 8 m. A small pillar leads up to a slab below the overhang.

  1. 18 m Up pillar to slab. Move left and up to overhang. Over this (1 aid nut), and up to good ledge.

  2. 9 m Ignore the crack above. Move right to next crack, which is climbed to top of pillar (3 aid nuts) ,

  3. 25 m Step right and up, then back left into shallow groove. Ascend the crack on the right side of chute which goes completely free, to a small but good belay.

  4. 30 m Attain the flake on right, then descend its right edge until the wide crack system on the pillar can be reached. Climb this (1 aid nut), until the rock deteriorates. Continue up the crack then step right and up to belay on top of pillar.

  5. 23 m The corner crack above is ignored. Traverse right instead on poor rock to a ledge. Hove further right to good corner crack. Up this to ledge. Hove left and up two steps to a ledge with a twin crack system above it.

  6. 23 m Up the twin cracks to a resting place on right. Up left then traverse left across top of groove to ledge. Follow ramp leading left (3 aid pegs), to small ledge and belay.

  7. 40 m Up 5 m (1 aid peg) to big blocks then traverse right and up to sling. Using sling descend a few feet and traverse right to groove. Up this (aid pegs) to exit right. 10 pegs were used for aid on this pitch. Seriousness: 6

FA: Dave Cheesmond & Ian Howell, 1975

Trad 170m Hell's Gate
HVS A1 The Undertaker

Between Beelzebub and Quo Vadis there is a prominent big corner. The route climbs up this keeping on the wall to the left.

  1. 37 m. Start up the corner and work left when forced to. A high peg is used to pendulum further left into a crack below a flake. Up this and onto flake (two aid pegs). Move right with difficulty to a crack which is ascended past a block. Up the corner and move left to belay. Peg belay.

  2. 25 m. Move up directly behind belay (1 aid peg) and gain the corner crack. Move left into niche, then left to slab. Descend this and move round corner on left and into slot. Up this to a grassy ledge. Step right and up to stance and belay on right.

  3. 30 m. Move left slightly and up steep rock. Move right and gain ledge from where one can move right (peg runner), round a corner and up slabs to grassy terrace.

  4. 42 m. Move left and finish up the last pitch of Quo Vadis. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
E1 Centaur

To the left of 'The Zebra Wall' there is a grey buttress which is only obvious when viewed directly below. At its foot is a prominent rock pedestal with a cave behind. This route ascends the buttress. Start left of cave.

  1. 34 m Move up 2 m to a ledge on the right. Now climb up leftwards (1 aid peg) to ledge. Traverse right along grassy ledge for about 12 m and climb a crack just right of large detached block. Continue up to belay.

  2. 18 m Move right onto arete and climb easily over blocks and wide cracks to good ledge beneath vertical crack.

  3. 24 m Up crack and move through overhang into widening chimney (peg runner). Chimney up then swing right into crack. Ascend steepening crack until a step right can be made onto ledge. Now move up leftwards to good ledge. Peg belays.

  4. 15 m Climb crack behind ledge then move left underneath overhang (1 aid nut and 1 aid peg) into groove. Hand-traverse right to a ledge. Nut belay.

  5. 43 m Traverse right 6 m then ascend to chimney. Climb up this and follow vegetated gully to huge belay stance.

  6. 46 m Move right onto block and climb up rightwards to gain groove. Move up until a traverse left can be made (peg runner). Traverse for 9 m then up rightwards (peg runner), and finish off left. (The belay at the top of Pitch 5 and the first 9 m of Pitch 6 are shared with 'The Zebra Wall'). Seriousness: 4

FA: Ian Howell & Dave Cheesmond, 1975

FFA: Dave MacMullan & Mark Savage, 1976

Trad 180m Hell's Gate
E3 AU:21 Stage Fright

This route ascends the obvious tramline cracks about 30 m left of The Devil Drives. The left crack is wider and is capped by a triangular block.

  1. 27 m. Move up to the foot of cracks and into right hand crack when possible. Up this for 12 m until a move left can be made into the wider crack. Up this to belay on block on left (peg belay).

  2. 27 m. Step right to thin crack and up to roof. Move right under roof (1 aid peg), then lower off nut to gain obvious crack low down on the steep right wall. Up crack (1 aid nut), then step left to corner (1 aid peg), and sloping ledge. Up onto large ledge above and belay. Freed by H Barber - Step right to thin crack and continue traversing right to niche below headwall.

  3. 28 m. Move up then traverse left around corner and descend slightly to ramp. Follow this to steeper wall which is climbed to broken ground. Scramble off right. Seriousness: 5

FFA: Henry Barber

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1975

Trad 82m Hell's Gate
VS Ace of Spades

Start left of The Chute where a narrow crack breaks through the bulge.

  1. 23 m Climb crack then move left and continue up crack for 12 m. Move left and up wall to belay in niche. Peg belay.

  2. 31 Just right of the belay is a square cut groove through the overhang. Climb this then left at the next overhang. Up broken rock to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Brian Thomas, 1975

Trad 54m Hell's Gate
1974
HVS Executioner

Start between 'After the Gold Rush' and 'Border Lord'. This route follows the handsome single crack to the left of the 'After the Gold Rush' tramline cracks.

  1. 31 m Rising easy traverse leftwards to ledge system and belay below wide crack.

  2. 37 m Step right across small gap (as for 'After the Gold Rush'), and move straight up to thin crack. Up this then right to the continuation of this crack. Up steeply to the 'guillotine', where a rest can be had off an in situ bong (rotten). Over this large flake till a move left can be made to a ledge.

  3. Take the easy line up the gully to top of buttress. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1974

Trad 68m Hell's Gate
HVS Border Lord

Start below the right-hand green tree some 24 m right of 'After the Gold Rush'.

  1. 31 m Up to tree. Climb slab above then step left onto arete. Up this to small triangular ledge and belays.

  2. 25 m Ascend crack above for 12 m then move round left and swing into crack below grassy ledge. Up onto this and belay.

  3. 12 m Climb right-hand crack over chocks to top. Seriousness: 2

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1974

Trad 68m Hell's Gate
S Penny Lane

On the left of buttress there is a bush some 3 m up cliff with a good crack on right. The cliff is undercut beneath this crack.

  1. 28 m Enter crack from left and follow to edge. Continue up overcoming some easy bulges and move right to belay ledge below wide crack.

  2. 12 m Ascend wide prominent crack splitting wall on left. Belay on top of this pedestal.

  3. 25 m Move up corner for 3 m then step left, up, and back rightwards and up to easy ground.

  4. 18 m Easily to top of buttress. Seriousness: 2

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1974

Trad 83m Hell's Gate
HVS Hot Rock

This route takes the twin tramline cracks immediately left of the main wide crack of 'The Squeeker'. Start about 12 m right of 'After the Gold Rush' at a green tree growing some feet up the cliff.

  1. 28 m Up groove then left to tree. Above tree then left along slab. Climb up to good belay below wide crack.

  2. 30 m Ignore wide crack but step left to foot of twin cracks. Ascend these until blocks are reached on left. Move into left crack and continue to easier groove and belay above.

  3. 19 m Move easily to top of buttress. Seriousness: 2

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1974

Trad 77m Hell's Gate
{UIAA} 6- Planet Route

100m. of slabs lead to the fault proper. Halfway up slabs, note a long roof with large tree at its R-hand end. 2 pitches reach the tree, the last moves being the crux. Above tree gain the upper slab and make a long L- trending traverse, bolt runner near end. Walk up through trees till the fault can be entered on R. Traverse L below an overhang (bolt just Rof crack). Fine chimney climbing follows. The final section to the summit is forested. On the 1st ascent skulls were found in a cave on the summit.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1974

Trad 300m Kasigau
1973
HVS Black Widow

About 9 m left of the Black Panther cracks there is an obvious small roof at 24 m with a groove beneath it. Enter groove from the left and climb to roof. Step right under roof and move to cracks. Climb steeply up cracks to ledge. Most parties belay here. Straight up cracks and chimney to top.

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1973

Trad 43m Hell's Gate
VS Umbra Link

About 9 m right of 'The Springer' is a prominent corner curving up rightwards. Start below this.

  1. 19 m Climb corner moving right at top and along ledge to belay.

  2. 15 m Move up leftwards into obvious cracks which are climbed direct to ledge.

  3. 15 m Follow prominent rampline rightwards.

  4. 9 m Now traverse left across steep black wall to ledge.

  5. 25 m Move straight up behind ledge into little groove which is climbed direct to top.

2019 update: Can be climbed in three pitches by combing pitches 2 and 3 and pitches 4 and 5. Best climbed with two ropes to manage rope drag, in particular for last pitch.

FA: Ian Howell & Brian Thomas, 1973

Trad 83m Hell's Gate
HS Nose of Nzaui

The climb is best reached by abseil from the summit. Scramble down the nose to an easy slab. A short piece of rope attached to the lowest tree can provide an abseil point above a vertical drop. Thus a long abseil from the bottom of the easy slab lands on a vegetated terrace. Walk 50m, south turn right and go down to the lowest tree above an overhanging wall; thus a long abseil can be made to slabs below. 2 more long abseils bearing slightly north lead to bottom. Equipment left in place for abseiling might hopefully be retrieved on the way up, or you may be lucky and find Ian Howell's wire cable and sling abseil points. The bottom can be reached by a less pleasant gully south of the vegetated terrace, followed by a long traverse along foot of the cliff. Continue north below a prominent great red overhang and after a grassy bay the foot of the slabs is reached.

An easy slab near tree, then a short bulge to a wide grassy terrace. The slabs proper start above (30m). A hard move is made to get up a short steep wall to gain a ledge by a difficult step right. Move across ledge right-wards to a small tree; now climb straight up past a small ledge to excellent gargoyle belays on the wall above; semi-hanging stance (40m), rope sling. Either traverse steeply down and right, or go down to a tiny ledge and hence gain a sweep of undulating slabs to right. Go up these, first trending right, then left. Finally move left and up to tiny trees on a ledge system above; a totally unprotected pitch (45m, IV), wire cable. Aim diagonally right to gain a tree belay below an overhanging red wall (40m).

Traverse left then gain with difficulty a higher slab level. Climb to a tiny corner just left of the overhanging wall, at top of the slab. Take corner to finish awkwardly on grass left (40m), wire cable.

A scramble follows to the vegetated final step on the nose. Climb a left-trending line of weakness, then straight up to reach 2 bolt belays; do not trend right on any part of this pitch (30m). Now go up diagonally right over a very steep wall to easy slab finish (25m).

Hardly any equipment need be carried on this climb as there is little opportunity to use it. Pegs are of no assistance.

(source Andrew Wielochowski)

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1973

Trad 250m Nzaui
1972
The Mandarin

Climbs the crack which splits the two sheer faces to the left of the main buttress of Nzaui.

FA: Barry Cliff & Mike Pardoe, 1963

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1972

Mixed trad 230m, 8, 3 Nzaui
VS Goliath

Start 12 m left of 'Caiaphas'. Ascend twin cracks for 3 m then swing left to sloping ledge. Traverse left 3 m to corner with loose flake. Up this then swing left to good ledge. Move up to crack and up this moving left under bulge at top. Up groove to broken rock and belay. 'Caiaphas' can be joined by traversing up rightwards. Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1972

Trad 37m Hell's Gate
HVS A2 The Zebra Wall

About 30 m left of 'Olympian' there is an obvious large grassy terrace about 30 m up the cliff. Start slightly right of this.

  1. 37 m Climb wall bearing diagonally left to a grassy terrace and belay below prominent crack which is capped by a roof at 12 m.

  2. 37 m Climb crack with aid then up behind roof to exit above chimney and belay on sloping ledge. Used No 4 & 5 BD cams

  3. 27 m Climb slab on left to foot of crack. Up crack with aid. Poor gear and loose rock.

  4. 15 mClimb crack then left to ledge. Up left to belay. Loose rock

  5. 46 m Descend to big ledge on left to terrace. Along this to vegetated gully and up to large chockstone belay on top of pillar.

  6. 18 m Climb up right by crack to belay in niche.

  7. 34 m Climb thin crack up on right with aid. Seriousness: 4

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1972

FFA: Alex Fiksman & John Train, 2005

Trad 210m Hell's Gate
E2 Gorgon

This section of the Left End has many routes on it and the best way of locating starts is to look for the prominent grey-rooted tree growing some 21 m up 'Magician'. This route starts 6 m right of 'Magician' where an easy buttress leads up to an overhang at 15 m.

  1. 38 m Up easy buttress to steep crack. Up this and round roof on aid, (mostly nuts). Free climbing follows up groove above to roof. Round this (1 aid peg), and up to belay on ledge. Peg belay.

  2. 18 m Traverse right a few feet to large perched block above. Up this and follow crack to more perched blocks. Step left and up to belays. Peg belay.

  3. 31 m Traverse right across groove to a bulge. Up this into groove (peg runner), and up groove to overhang. Move right onto ledge on arete. Up to flake and belay.

  4. 18 m Up to peg above. Using this move left with difficulty and climb up to wide crack, (peg runner). Traverse left across slab and up to belay at poor stance. Peg belay

  5. 25 m Move up to overhang, move left and up move left then back right to top. Seriousness: 5

FA: Ian Howell & Robin Harper, 1972

Trad 130m Hell's Gate
E1 Olympian

To the left of the highest overhanging section of the Main Wall is an obvious large flake. It is probably one of the most prominent features on the cliff and is located some 30 m below the top, with the shadow of a wide chimney on its right side and a green tree growing from its lip. The route starts directly below this flake at the foot of an obvious corner crack with a bulge at 15 m.

Often done with aid on the crux pitch, then HVS A1.

  1. 31 m Climb wall on right then cross left to a crack at 9 m. Move up crack and surmount bulge to ledge. Climb tramline cracks to belay ledge .

  2. 31 m Move up easily to steep wall. Climb wall then move left to crack. Up this and over protruding flake into chimney which is climbed to ledge.

  3. 18 m Easily up rising traverse left to a large cave.

  4. 25 m Now a long traverse right begins across ledges to crack. Climb crack to big ledge.

  5. 21 m Along ledge to steep left crack which is climbed free for 12 m to ledge.

  6. 25 m Move right and up chimney to groove. Climb this to ledge below flake.

  7. 24 m Moving down right turn the flake and enter chimney which is climbed to top.

  8. 15 m Rising traverse left to finish.

Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell, Iain Allan, Phil Snyder & Robin Harper, 1972

FFA: Joe Friend & party, 1974

Trad 190m Hell's Gate
E1 A1 Ramparts

Girdle traverse of Edinburgh Castle.

  1. 15m. Climb Graceful Chimney to tree.

  2. 18m. From tree move horizontally left with increasing difficulty until with the use of aid good holds beneath the 'keyhole' are reached.

  3. 18m. Descend pitch 2 of Committee Wall to flake and belay.

  4. 30m. Ascend 3m above flake, move left and across steep slabs to pegs on Gateway. Climb pitch 2 of Gateway to tree belay.

  5. 20m. Descend left to grassy ledges until vertical crack is reached. Ascend this to top.

FA: Ian Howell & R. Higgins, 1972

Trad 100m Lukenya
HVS A1 Queensway

To the right of 'Committee Wall' there is a corner with a wide crack. 5m to the right of this is another crack.

  1. 20m. Up this with peg runner at 5m. Continue up to easier ground. Follow crack, which widens, then make hard move up to 'Committee Wall' traverse.

  2. 30m. From the obvious flake to left of 'keyhole' move up left to bolt in place below overhang. With aid from a sling over lip and easy climbing above.

FA: R. Harper & Ian Howell, 1972

Trad 50m Lukenya
1971
MS Arrowhead

About 200 ft. past the Tree on the left, is a large arrowhead, with its tip about two-thirds of the height of the cliff. A long crack on the left hand side of this feature leads down to a tree with a white trunk.

  1. 40ft. Scramble up to the right of the white tree.

  2. 70ft. Reach the base of the crack proper, turning the steepness on the left. Large rock belay.

  3. The corner is good, avoid the marrow plant.

  4. 50ft. Easily up the corridor behind the tip of the arrow.

  5. 100ft. Step off a flake at the right end of the corridor for a few steep moves (crux), then straight up in good position.

FA: Ian Howell & R.J.H. Chambers, 1971

Trad 92m Hell's Gate
HVS Dynamo

At the top of the first bay to the left of the white trunked tree and arrowhead is a corner which leads into the extreme left of about nine parallel corners set halfway up the cliff.

  1. 25 m (Severe). At 17 m, break left out of the corner and continue upwards until a traverse leads to the right, past an obvious spike belay. Up to the ledge at the foot of the main crack.

  2. 18 m (Hard Very Severe). The corner becomes fierce with difficult bridging and jamming until an escape can be made onto the left wall, which is climbed to an overhang. An airy step right across the top of the crack leads to the belay.

  3. 34 m (Mild Very Severe). Move up leftwards at first and then continue to the final wall (possible grassy escape to the right). Climb wall until it steepens and a sloping traverse ledge leads into an open chimney. The easier angle is now compensated by deteriorating rock which maintains interest to the end, a mantleshelf off a spike.

FA: R.J.H. Chambers & Ian Howell, 1971

Trad 77m Hell's Gate
HVS Excelsior

In the middle of Springs Wall there is a bay. Start right of this bay where the rock is at its lowest and there is a steep groove.

  1. 32 m Climb the corner groove (peg runner) till it ends beneath a steep blank wall. Climb this wall to belay on a good ledge below a big corner.

  2. 16 m Climb the corner, traverse left onto the brown wall and ascend the central crack. Good belay ledge at top.

  3. 44 m Move left around the corner. Straight up to finish.

FA: Ian Howell & R.J.H. Chambers, 1971

Trad 92m Hell's Gate
HS The Straddler

About 46 m from the left-hand end of the cliff a crack splits the face from bottom to top, leaning back in a corner at first, and then overhanging slightly.

  1. 18 m Up the wall and crack to a chockstone belay.

  2. 22 m The overhanging crack/corner gives technical straddling in a fine position.

FA: Ian Howell & R.J.H. Chambers, 1971

Trad 40m Hell's Gate
E1 5b K.L. Corner

The corner crack between the two faces is climbed free (natural pro).

FA: D.D. Gray & Ian Howell, 1971

Trad 22m Lukenya
1969
HVS Polythemus Hard

Start on the left hand side of the buttress below the end of the roof where there are small detached flakes at the foot of the slabs.

  1. 120 ft. Climb diagonally right to a steep step on the slab, peg in place, then trend back left to a very small stance below the corner crack. «

  2. 40 ft. Climb the crack - crux. Go over the overhang with aid from a small nut. Belay on the platform (tree).

  3. 80 ft. Step up to the left to the foot of asteep flakewhich is climbed until it is possible to make an awkward move back right into the big chimney, which is followed more easily to a large stance with belays.

  4. 40 ft. Climb the crack in the slab on the left to tree belay below a roof.

  5. 70 ft. Step down and round to the right and across to a pleasant crack trending right which leads round to the gully on the right of the buttress.

  6. and 7- Climb the gully to the summit. A better direct finish may be possible.

An attempt was made at a route near the gully to the left of Central Buttress by Alan Owen and Miss C. Brown. There is a tremendous area of unclimbed rock here, but any routes would probably be of a very high standard.

FA: Ian Howell & R. Pillinger, 1969

Trad Soitpus
VS Hourglass Crack

The next jamming crack with a narrowing in the middle. The narrowing is hard to pass and the top is still hard.

FA: Ian Howell & R. Pillinger, 1969

Trad 16m Hell's Gate
VS Harrisons

The left of twin cracks in the next square corner. Probably the easiest of the jam cracks, though awkward to start. Climbed on a rope, but has since been led.

FA: R. Pillinger, Ian Howell, R.F. Higgins & A. Walker, 1969

Trad 16m Hell's Gate
1968
HVD Deluge

Start about 61 m right of The Gasper, at a diagonal line running from right to left to an obvious exit.

  1. 21 m On a corner go up directly to reach a prominent slab slanting left. Either follow the slab to its finish, or go onto a rib on its left and then rejoin the top of the slab where there is a fine pinnacle belay.

  2. 31 m Now trend diagonally left on the easiest line and take the weakness line to the top.

FA: Ian Howell & I.Sandilands, 1968

Trad 52m Hell's Gate
VS Pull and Push

FA: Ian Howell & Ian Sandilands, 1968

Trad 45m Natorbe
S Overflow

FA: Ian Howell & B S, 1968

Trad 45m Natorbe
VD Slanting Chimney

FA: Ian Sandilands, B S & Ian Howell, 1968

Trad 52m Natorbe
VS Crackerjack

FA: Ian Howell & Ian Sandilands, 1968

FA: Ian Howell, B S & I D S - Ian Sandilands, 1968

Trad 61m Natorbe
VS Crackerjack

FA: Ian Howell & Ian Sandilands, 1968

FA: Ian Howell, B S & I D S - Ian Sandilands, 1968

Trad 61m Natorbe
VS Natorbe Chimney

FA: Ian Howell & C P, 1968

Trad 68m Natorbe
S Chaos

This is on the South-East corner of Central Tower, ie., the side away from the road. An obvious rib runs up this side. Climb the rib till a sloping ledge bends right to a platform. Climb steep rocks on rib which is followed up to ledge below slabs. Follow the slabs keeping left under overhang, then move round the overhang on the right and up steep slabs to the summit. (Pegs used for protection).

FA: Iain Allan, R. Higgins & Ian Howell, 1968

Trad 60m Hell's Gate
{FR} 6b+ The Mouse

The original route on the Mouse climbed the face just left of the N arete using a mixture of aid and free climbing. Subsequently climbed free, with new bolts added in 2019 now making it a very safe sport climb.

Start at a chimney at the Left side of the W face.

  1. 10m. Climb the chimney then traverse left to easier ground leading to ledge, bolt belays.

  2. 20m. Climb the steepening slab then wall above, old bolts and pegs in place, on creaky flakes.

FA: Ian Howell & Roger Higgins, 1968

Trad 30m Mt Ololokwe area
MVS A1 Spade

The section of Fischers Cliff perpendicularly opposite Fischer's Tower is probably the highest section of clean rock. Gashing this face is a long diagonal cave which The Chute follows. This climb is to the left of The Chute at an obvious crack along a break in the overhangs. Start a few feet further left at a peg crack running up then left to a niche. (Painted "S").

  1. 11 m Climb this crack to a niche.

  2. 15 m From the niche step right onto rib. Climb this until it is possible to step right across a shallow groove to another rib. Ascend this, (peg runner), then step right again and up to a belay below the overhangs.

  3. 27 m Just right of the belay is a square cut groove going through the overhangs. Climb this then left at the next overhang, over some vegetation and then easily up broken rocks to the top.

FA: Ian Howell & R.F.Higgins, 1968

Trad 54m Hell's Gate
VS Sickle

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1968

Trad 45m Natorbe
HVS AU:19 Vertigo

Start about 12 m left of 'Quo Vadis' where there is a steep buttress with fine cracks splitting it.

  1. 40 m. Climb up left side of semi-detached column until it is possible to stand on top of it. Move rightwards over wall to foot of crack which is climbed direct to belay.

  2. 42 m. Move up corner to overhang. Over this to flake then move up leftwards to grassy terrace.

  3. 40 m. Move left to obvious corner crack, which is entered with difficulty and followed to top. (On the first ascent of this route Pitch 1 was done with aid. The first free ascent of this pitch was done on 2/1/77 by Iain Allan and Dave MacMullan ) Seriousness: 3

FA: Ian Howell & Iain Allan, 1968

Trad 120m Hell's Gate
VS The Chute

Immediately opposite Fischer's Tower there is an area of clean rock, where there is a prominent diagonal cave. Below this feature there is a shallow square cut chimney at ground level. (Painted C).

  1. 21 m Up the chimney then step right by good hold. Cross left above chimney into crackline leading to bottom of chute. Up to the top of chute. Tension left from a peg to good ledge and peg belay. There is a peg in place at the end of Pitch 1, where most parties abseil off (as of the old guidebook).

  2. 34 m Step left and enter bulging crack. Up cave and exit left. Climb wall above. Severity: 5

FA: Ian Howell & R.F.Higgins, 1968

Trad 55m Hell's Gate
VS The Tree

In the middle of the face is sort of a gully with three prominent cracks on the left. The climb starts beneath the right tree.

  1. Climb with some difficulty to the tree.

  2. Climb behind the polished tree on slabs, moving left then up and back right over blocks and down to the right using a crack at the top of a slab. This ends up at a ledge about 25 ft. above the tree. Peg belay.

  3. Move right and up onto a bulge pulling up from this with a poor hand jam on the right (crux), continue to a cave.

  4. Squeeze through the back of the block and climb a crack in the wall on the left. At the overhang pull up into a vegetated groove which leads to the top.

FA: Ian Howell & C. Powell, 1968

Trad 110m Hell's Gate
HS Howell-Higgins Route

This route resulted from an attempt on the deep, palm filled chimney to the R of the Chambers route. Due to wet and slimy conditions in the chimney escape was made onto the R wall, just below the level of the palm trees. “This led to climbing on steep ball-bearing grass necessitating a grading of the climb as G2 and the bush near the top so thick and repelling as B3.” No detailed description of this route is available. The ascent took just over 7 hours and the descent by the Chambers route just over 2 hours. (description by Andrew Wielochowski )

FA: Ian Howell & Roger Higgins, 1968

Trad Mt Ololokwe area
1967
MVS Antiperistalsis

Start in the middle of crag, in the broken area, is a large face with an obvious crack-line running down within 30 ft. cf the ground. This crack was to be attempted, but due to slime it had to he left for the dry season. Just left of an imaginary line taken from the bottom of the crack to the ground is a large block some 10 ft. high. Start from the the top of this.

  1. 100 ft. Climb the block wall on small but good holds for some 25 ft. - small runner. Move right to bottom of' crack. This crack was found to be so revolting that the leader had great difficulty in not being sick, so an exit right from the main crack was made up a thinner subsidiary crack - 2 pegs used for aid to speed the getaway. Climb the right hand crack, pass some loose rock and small tree to a ledge and tree belay.

  2. 70 ft. Traverse left from the belay onto the fact - climb this face diagonally left on good holds (exposed) to a small ledge and crack. Belay. (This ledge is extremely unpleasant),

  3. 100 ft. Climb the crack - one peg used as hand-hold for some 50 ft. Then traverse easily right to another crack. Follow this to big ledge and vegetation.

  4. 150 ft. Continue up then right past a deep smooth chimney to another tree filled groove. Belay at bottom.

  5. 70 ft. Climb tree then rib on right to ledge below "house size" block belay.

  6. 20C ft. Traverse left under block, through vegetation onto slab and big ledge below line of overhangs. A crack-line breaks overhangs. Belay under this.

  7. 30 ft. Climb right hand of two cracks using 3 or 4 pegs - pull left over roots and continue up vegetated groove. When it steepens go left onto face and climb this delicately to belay in a little cave thing.

  8. 120 ft. Go through hole in cave and lay-back up flake on left, then move easily to top.

FA: M. Harris & Ian Howell, 1967

Trad 200m, 8 Kalama Hill
HVS 5a The Groove

The prominent groove capped by a triangular block on the face overlooking the entrance to the gorge. Climb groove to its end then step right into crack. Up this a few feet then move left across lip of overhang and straight up to summit.

FA: Martin Harris & Ian Howell, 1967

Trad 37m Hell's Gate
VS The Pillar

At the right hand end of the cliff is a pillar or flake which lies against the cliff to about two thirds height. The climb goes up the left hand side of the pillar. Gain access to a good ledge just to the right of an obvious chimney below the left hand side of the pillar,

  1. 30m From the ledge move left a little towards the chimney hut pullover the overhang on good jugs, up the wall until one can traverse left into the chimney. Up the chimney to very large ledge,

  2. 30m The corner of the left is climbed,'combined tactics wereused on the first ascent. Continue up crack line to belay.

  3. 15m Continue up crack to belay below roof,

  4. 15m Traverse right across wall to chimney on left side of pillar.

  5. 30m Up chimney to top of pillar.

  6. 21m. Crux. Prom top jf pillar go directly up 'for a few feet then traverse left using underholds to a very steep corner. Climb this, not easy, to a good ledge above. Poor peg belay.

  7. 52m Traverse right along ledge, it gets thinner and slabby belay in bush.

  8. together with 9 60m 2 other pitches were climbed on the first ascent tending left back onto rock above the overhangs.

FA: M. Harris & Ian Howell, 1967

Trad 230m Kalama Hill
{SA} PROT:VS The Pillar variation

The right hand side of the pillar offers a great long chimney of about diff standard. However, access to the bottom of the chimney is not so easy and one V.S. pitch is necessary. To the right of the start of the normal pillar route is another chimney, thickly vegetated at the bottom. Access t.:, this chimney is made from the right. Ascend the chimney to a belay high up, then descend and cross the wall on the right (one peg used for aid) to a shallow vegetated break leading up to the bottom of the main chimney.

FA: M. Harris & Ian Howell, 1967

Trad Kalama Hill
VS Spigala Giallo

Bold, exposed and excellent rock. The tower-like crag directly to the left of the main crag has an approach ramp of scrambling that goes from left to right. The climb starts about two thirds of the way up this and keeps more or less to the very edge of the tower. Start - Go up the ramp to a point where there is a weakness leading up the steep wg.ll on the left. This weakness can be easily identified by a root coming down the face which looks exactly like a handrail.

  1. 130 ft. Go up this weakness keeping left and beneath the clumps of vegetation. Once passed the vegetation ascend more easily straight up for some way until just beneath the steep part of the tower, where a tree by your feet offers a belay.

  2. 80 ft. Step right round the corner into a broken groove which leads up into a 'V' shaped corner capped by a triangular roof. Ascend to the roof. Some doubtful blocks and flakes need careful handling. At the roof step left onto the arete on good jugs, up the arete to a slab which leads to a large ledge which cuts the right hand side of the tower. Belay.

  3. 120 ft. Ascend the arete a few feet by mantleshelf, (or the crack a few feet to the right by jamming), to a point where one is stopped by the overhanging wall. Reach over the top of the over­ hanging wall for jugs, (a peg was used for aid here), and swing over onto the arete. Continue to the top keeping as near to the left edge as possible.

FA: M. Harris & Ian Howell, 1967

Trad 100m Soitpus
VS Baboon Babylon

Splitting the right hand end of the enormous arched roof is a wide vegetated chimney. Two lines of weakness lead up to the chimney and the route takes the right hand of these. Start below a tree about 40 ft. up.

  1. 50 ft. Climb up for 25 ft. then move right until one can again move up reaching the tree.

  2. 65 ft. From the tree move left along ledges to below another tree. Ascend to the tree. Step left for 15 ft. to a thin crack leading upwards to an awkward ledge. The crack widens but bulges and an awkward move enables a good jam to be reached from which holds lead to a good ledge and belay, (l peg used).

  3. 40 ft. Continue in the crack line over a bulge that is easier than it appears and on by a tree to a good ledge,

  4. 130 ft. Continue up vegetated gully to the top. Prom this point one can either descend to. the right (down gully between the main buttress and Short Pinnacle), or continue to the top of the hill involving 300 ft. of easier climbing.

FA: M. Harris & Ian Howell, 1967

Trad 180m Soitpus
S Evening Visit

The climb goes out from the gully between the main crag and the onto the arete and continues up the face just right of the arete.

Start in the vegetated gully about 40 ft. below an obvious tree on the face.

  1. 65 ft. Push past vegetation onto the arete. Climb the arete on good holds until faced with an impossible overhang. Swing out right and climb a narrow vertical crack (strenuous) until a horizontal traverse can be made to the tree. Belay, (peg in place?).

  2. 85 ft. Climb the face directly above the tree on small holds. Still on the face mount' an overhang and continue until a horizontal traverse can be made to the right on good holds on a slab. Go round the corner and directly up steep rock, good holds to the top.

FA: Ian Howell & T. Gallon, 1967

Trad 46m Soitpus
1902
E1 5b Shadow

Scramble up a pillar of boulders leading to a band of overhangs. Bridge up and step left onto a slab above a roof. Move 2 m left, then go up and right to belay directly below the steep corner (15 m). Climb corner (crux at 6 m), pass a roof and belay on the left, 3 m below the rotten band (25 m). Climb right of the corner to the rotten band. Move left to gain easy but rotten rock and trend left to the top (20 m); belay 20 m higher.

FA: Ian Howell, R Harper & Iain Allan, 1902

Trad 60m Hell's Gate
Unknown year
{UIAA} 6+ Ivory Tower

A serious, sustained climb.

Start one m. L of Ivory Corner and climb a slab directly for 35m. up a brown streak, passing the R-hand end of an overlap at 20m. Traverse 5m. L till easier rock leads to a bushy bay at far R end of terrace (45m.). Step R from bay onto a wall and climb a steepening to loose blocks. Move R, then up and R into Ivory Corner; a messy pitch. Good stance at a pinnacle R of comer (35m.). Place a runner in the comer, move down and swing onto a steep grey slab on L. Traverse L to arete and climb this to a bolt and peg slightly higher. A steep wall (VI+) then jugs lead to a quartz hole and thread runner. Hand traverse L and swing onto a ledge above the big roof. Now L, then up and back R to a small stance on a sloping ledge (30m.). Climb wall above stance for 8 m. to a resting place. Move delicately L and up to excellent runners in a crack above a rocking-block. From here climb direct (VII-) to a resting place R of a big detached flake. (This section can be avoided by traversing 3m. L from rocker, climbing (VI+) to a ledge, and R to the detached flake). Bridge up, step Rand climb cracks to a ledge below a comer. Bridge up comer to a loose block and roof, traverse L to easier ground and climb to the great horizontal break in the cliff. Belay on white ledge to R, pegs in place (40m.). Surmount roof just L of stance using hidden pocket (protection peg 2m. L), climb good grey rock to a steep wall, move 2m. L, then climb to better holds and a resting place on the R (V I, steep and poorly protected). Ascend 3m. to a better ledge then move 3m. R to easier ground; go up good rock to small stance below a little bulge/ roof (40m.). Climb bulge to easier ground and the top (10m.). Descend as for Ivory Corner.

FA: Andrew Wielochowski, Ian Howell, R.Corkhill & A.Khan

Trad 200m Elephant Rocks
VS Antipathy

Same start as Antiperistalsis.

  1. 50 ft. climb black wall on small holds § at 25 ft. traverse right into bottom of crack line. Belay some feet up from the little ledge at the bottom.

  2. 150 ft. Traverse left onto the wall, very thin move to reach good ledge. Traverse left until on good jugs; go up until at a quartz band, then traverse left past a grass filled crack until one can ascend again. Ascend the easier angled but thinner slabs, taking a zigzag line until one reaches a good tree at the bottom of a large crack line, belay.

  3. Carrying coils traverse left through bush to a vegetation filled gully, ascend this to the top of the crag. Some interesting little rock sections avoid total vegetation.

FA: I. Sandilands & Ian Howell

Trad Kalama Hill
S Jumping Flea

Much vegetation. Starts in the middle of the crag is a broken area, somewhere, in the centre of this area is an enormous "scoop" or shallow cave, with a large tree growing out of it. At ground level directly below this scoop is a narrow chimney. The bottom of this chimney is so well pro­tected by vegetation that the start is made from the left from the top of a 15 ft. high flake.

  1. 100 ft. Prom the right hand end of the flake 'launch' yourself into the vegetation, climb this to chimney proper and up this to belay in vegetation above.

  2. 100 ft. Prom the ledge ascend to scoop by a wide chimney, one peg used here. Belay at large tree.

  3. 150 ft. the 'V' grooves above proved impossible so a long traverse left was made at the top of the slab, starting in the corner • .on jams, belay round the corner (peg).

  4. 20 ft. Climb the crack above the belay. 1 peg used to good ledge. Prom the ledge traverse left into vegetation filled gully, ascend this to top of crag, via inside of a cave where a chockstone is lassooed.

FA: M. Harris, D. Metcalfe & Ian Howell

Trad Kalama Hill
VS Antipar

At the left end of the cliff there is a very imposing buttress with a horizontal groove running along it. By climbing up dripping gullies and sandy caves the start is reached at the top of a pillar at the foot of the left end of the horizontal groove. Ah arrow marks thestart. Climb up to overhang then move round to the right and up ramp to steep wall. Climb this (2 pegs for aid) and then up gully to hori­zontal groove. Belay here. Now climb along groove onto grass terrace. Move up terrace to foot of steep crack. Climb this first on left up flakes - then move into crack and climb to top where there is a belay ledge. Finish up cave on left.

FA: Ian Howell, R.F. Higgins & Iain Allan

Trad 120m Kalama Hill

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