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Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
2023
17 Average Joe

An moderate adventure route and the line of least resistance up the Hidden Face. The climb follows a series of crack systems to the top of the cliff.

  1. 20m (17). Start as for Psychoman then verge right after 5 metres until at base of steep corner (crux). Up this (grade 17) or step left around arete and up more easily. Belay here, or continue up crack and link with pitch 2.

  2. 20m (13) Continue up the easy corner until reaching a crack that peters out before a blank slab. Belay from a stance in the crack.

  3. 20m (16) Up slab (runout) and right until a short finger crack takes gear, then over bulge and belay on top of a pedestal at base of headwall.

  4. 20m (15) Traverse left and over into overhanging corner system. Over bulge and easily up corner to belay.

  5. 20m (15) Up middle of face, using a series of blocks and flakes to the summit. First ascent climbed into the bushes and belayed from a tree near the descent abseil bolt. This pitch has dubious rock quality.

Pitch lengths are estimates, and belay stances described are a guide only. This route is still a serious undertaking due to the loose nature of the rock in sections. Be careful.

Gear: Standard rack, several alpine draws

Trad 100m, 5 Hidden Face
2022
V4 Crimp Eastwood

Starts 3m right of Clint Eastwood, under where the two boulders meet. Sit start on the left incut hold and right side pull, float up through the crimps before making a big move to the rail out left, then finishing as of Clint Eastwood

FA: Sule Mcrazy & Mitch Scanlan-Bloor, 27 Jan 2022

Boulder Mt Lyell

Showing all 2 routes.