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Showing all 16 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
V11 Mind Wars

There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic.

FA: Mark Rewi, 17 Sep 2019

Boulder 10m Camels Hump
18 Mad to the Bone

A moderate ground-up way to access the Boneyard all on Trad, mossy; but the abseil traffic has cleaned it up considerably. Starts at the rap line, just left of the nose of the original 'Boneyard Route'.

  1. 30m 18. First pitch climbs the rap line / corner taking the R fork for the last 3m to the rap chain.

  2. 30m 18. Traverse R for 5m (no pro, maybe anchor off the rap line!?), then straight up thin crack just around the nose. Move left to corner, then finish up mossy wall (poor pro).

FA: Goshen Watts & Mark Rewi, 24 Apr 2019

Trad 60m, 2 Bare Rock
V9 After the War Part 2

V9/10. Poor mans variant or training progression/link-up... take your pick. Start at elevator stand (start of PA) and climb back half of LDWT before extending left as per SRE. Probably pretty close to double digits if you climb one of the V8 or 9 variants on straining rail.

Start as per Positive Ape in the Elevator Stand, and traverse left and low into start of Straining Rail avoiding jugs up high. Finish off on Straining Rail.

FA: Mark Rewi, Oct 2017

Boulder 8m Camels Hump
27 The Diamond Tipped Finger Saw

Sounds appealing! This is actually a pretty good and significantly harder companion for Anguish. Good face climbing leads to a desperate slab finish past last bolt.

FFA: Mark Rewi, Nov 2016

Sport 18m Black Hill
25 Kingdom of Fear

Another Galleon classic is OPEN FOR BUSINESS!! Start half way along rock fin (couple of metres left of Splinter) straight up past first three bolts, then boulder out right (crux) then up and left to jug, then another cruxy move to last bolt then mega jugs! Enjoy

Set by Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway & Mark Rewi, 6 Aug 2016

Sport 17m, 8 Grampians
27 Kia Kaha Direct

Variant to Air Malta overhang. Kia kaha is a Māori phrase used by the people of New Zealand meaning stay strong, used as an affirmation. The phrase has significant meaning for Māori: popularised through its usage by the 28th Māori Battalion during World War II, it is found in titles of books and songs, as well as a motto. 1/ 30m 26 Amaze balls no rest till the end. Huge holds and huge moves. 2/ 20m 27 Bouldery climbing to the crux tufa finish

FA: Duncan Hunter

FFA: Mark Rewi & Duncan Hunter, 26 Mar 2016

Sport Bungonia Gorge
20 Horny Nanny Direct

Directly up the arete of Horny Nanny.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2016

Sport 7m, 2 Camels Hump
V9 The Radness

Cos its rad! Sit start with awesome crimp rail and undercling or low pocket. Climb the line of pockets, slimps and crimps (jugs out left of arete out) to match jug crack up right. Better still finish the boulder direct as per Wills Rad Traverse. V7 if you use big foot jug. Stand start goes at around V4/5 depending on what holds you use. Upgraded after several strong attempts sent packing.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2016

Boulder Camels Hump
26 Spy Works

Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out. 2018- Apparently some douche has stolen the hangers (which can’t be reached from adjacent crack climbs)

FA: Mark Rewi, 2015

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Black Hill
16 Undertow

Undercut start on arete past 5 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'. Apparently this has grown a bolt left of the start... which was certainly not discussed with the first ascentionist, but it probaby does explain why so many people describe this as soft... the line is actually via overhung start direct up the arete.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2014

Sport 15m, 5 Camels Hump
23/24 After the War

24 if you do the contrived start out right. May be slightly easier if tall or inclined to wander. Line of RBs 2m right of VVV. Clip first RB from block then return to ground to start. Nice boulder problem then grey streak direct (thin between 3rd and 4th bolts). From 4th RB diagonally right to finish as for TFTP to new double UB lower off.

FA: Mark Rewi, 9 Jun 2013

Sport 18m Werribee Gorge
14 One For The Masses

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. Bonus large wires or slings if you don't like runout finishes. 5th bolt added Dec 2016 on request of FA.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2007

Sport 20m, 5 Camels Hump
Unknown year
28 What Lies Beneath

Completes the trilogy of excellent girdles on the left wall. Taking in the cruxes of most of the routes and requiring rope trickery and an attentive belayer to guarantee the safety of your ankles this is unlikely to gain too much attention... certainly not a route for a busy weekend! Start at Left Hand of Satan then very thin moves to gain the sloper and traverse on Satanic Verses until the large pocket. Easier moves right via Bop and Bewitched to gain the jugs on Broomstick at its third clip. Soak up the lactic and continue the charge right via Hollow Screams Original crux to finish up Boogie or Boogie RHV. Has also been finished up Wolf Variant.

FA: Mark Rewi

Sport 30m Camels Hump
V5 Blacklisted

Start as for GMM sit but rock back over the start holds to climb tricky black slab direct. May be a grade harder but more likely we just suck at slabs.

FA: Mark Rewi

Boulder Mt Alexander
22 Caucasus Corner Direct

Where CC moves left out of the corner buckle up and blast straight up the line and overlaps above past 4(?) well spaced fixed hangers and trad. On an earlier attempt pre bolts the leader fell 30m to land largely unharmed (physically at least) on the slabs below the belayer. He then promptly gave up climbing! The other half of the party returned, placed minimal hardware and finished the job.

FA: Pat Spiers & Mark Rewi

Trad Warrumbungles
24 Half Man, Half Spy

Up Half Man Half Biscuit then continue up the Spyworks headwall. Could be 25.

FA: Mark Rewi

Sport 15m Black Hill

Showing all 16 routes.