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Evelyn and Lou Area

  • 难度体系: AU
  • 照片: 3
  • 攀登: 47

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描述

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

准入问题 取自Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

前往

Descend as for Kachoong but where the path heads right underneath Hurts Wall, head out and left to some large callitris. Scramble down the front and you will be at the top of the wall, head left to get to the base. You could also walk uphill from Shiralee Wall.

行为准则 取自Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

标签

部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

线路

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Grade 线路

Up the crack then arete till angle eases. Follow sharp arete to spectacular summit.

Start: Start at a crack on the east face of the pinnacle.

首攀: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Follow arete all the way to top.

Start: Slightly uphill of BNP, 5 metres left (description says right but that makes no sense) of the start of 'Generation Gap', at the left arete.

首攀: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

Up the middle of the wall left of Generation Gap, finishing up left arete. Some friable rock low down.

首攀: Jess Hartridge & Wendy Eden, 5 4月 2016

Pleasant easy climb up a great line. Left facing stepped corner left of the bulging wall with Lou and Evelyn.

首攀: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Michael Stone, 1979

Start up 'Generation Gap' then step onto right wall above roof at 8m and up.

首攀: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 2012

Vigorous crack through a ceiling.

Start: Start as for 'Generation Gap'.

首攀: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Michael Stone, 1979

Follow the black trench up and out through the offwidth roof.

Rap station installed.

自由首攀: Chris Ferre, muki woods, Paul Graham & Jae Zhong, 9 7月 2018

Steep but if you have trouble on this leave the rest of the routes on this wall alone.

Start: Start at wide crack right of James.

首攀: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Geoff Gledhill, 1985

Over roof just right of 'Pumparama' and finish up short crack.

Start: Start just right of 'Pumparama'.

首攀: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

首攀: Geoff Little, Jon Muir & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

A short route with shallow pockets. Three bolts to join Evelyn at about 2/3 height.

Thin and energetic

Start: Start at thin crack 4 metres right of 'Broom Hilda'.

首攀: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

Up the crack right of Evelyn then wall past bolt to where crack reopens.

首攀: Wendy Eden, Douglas Hockly, Jess McMahon & Laurie., 6 5月 2016

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

首攀: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Reputedly a tough lead.

首攀: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981

After the initial crack on Lou, continue up just right of mossy streak to where the crack reopens. Gear is probably better than the original but still a little exciting. Look out for a 3 rock to the left of where you climb (it's in the moss) after the crux.

首攀: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 9 4月 2016

Right of Lou past 2 bolts and some fiddly cams and small wires

首攀: Wendy Eden, Lou Shepherd, Gareth Llewellyn & Douglas Hockly, 8 4月 2016

Bouldery seam between Greg Will be Amused and Lou's not 19.

首攀: Hoskins & Smith. late., 1995

Short crack. Very short.

Start: Start at the right hand end of the wall that contains Lou.

首攀: Smith, Hoskins & late., 1995

Start at crack under bolt, move up weakness to second bolt and through roof to fixed anchor.

自由首攀: muki woods & Chris Ferre, 9 7月 2018

Start in small left facing corner at right-hand end of wall. Follow crack to top.

自由首攀: Jae Zhong & Paul Graham, 9 7月 2018

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

日期: 2016

国际书号: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

作者: Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

日期: 2013

国际书号: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

作者: Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

日期: 2011

国际书号: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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