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Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill

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描述

The Cluan Tiers are a range of hills near the town of Westbury in Northern Tasmania. On the western side facing the Liffey Valley, is a substantial dolerite escarpment about 2km long and up to 90m high, but only two of the faces have been deemed worthy of climbing. The cliff is unusual for dolerite as it is generally void of cracks, and forms overhanging blocky faces with big roofs. Consequently the crag has been developed as a sport climbing area. The nature of the rock lends itself to steep, difficult climbing, and the main wall in particular, is quite intimidating. The cliff faces south-west and does not see sunlight until well into the afternoon, making it an ideal summer crag. Whiskey Jim Hill is also located on Cluan Tier, a short distance to the east of the Cluan Tiers crag. The rock is sandstone of variable quality, and climbing here consists of both trad and sport on steep cracks and faces. While only two climbs are recorded, there is potential for many more in the vicinity. Climbers should come prepared for cold weather as it is an alpine area subject to the full force of westerly weather. The views to the western tiers are glorious, making it a spectacular location for climbing.

© (GerryN)

准入问题 取自Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

前往

Access for Cluan Tier is remarkably easy - if you have a 4WD, being just 45 minutes drive from Launceston and a 10 minute walk on a track to the top of the cliff. From Launceston travel to Westbury and continue another 9km on the old highway to Exton. Turn left at Exton onto C502, signposted Quamby Brook and Golden Valley. Continue straight ahead at the crossroads after 4km. About 3km later is a gravel road on the left signposted to the 'Cluan Tier'. From here it is 16km on logging roads to the cliff. Follow the main 'Cluan Tier' Road and after about 12km is a crossroads. Take the road on the right which goes steeply up a hill. At the top of the hill, keep following the main road and take left hand turns at the two intersections you come across. The road passes underneath a powerline and curves around to meet the powerline again about 1km further. Park here at the powerline easement marked by a cairn on the left. Follow the powerline easement up the hill for 10 minutes to the top of the cliff. After some easy bashing through a grove of ferns for about 100m, there is a good gravel track up the easement. At the powerpole closest to the cliff edge, turn left and follow a rough path for 50m to the descent gully marked by a cairn. A short descent gully leads to the first cliff while the main cliff is about 100m further around to the right. Whiskey Jim Hill: Take the main Cluan Tier road, and at 12km continue straight instead of turning right. At the next intersection continue straight, and then left at the next one (this should be at the beginning of a recently logged coup). Follow the road to the far side of the coup and park before getting bogged. Walk NE along the road for about 400m, then follow the overgrown road on the right downhill to intersect a walking trail marled by orange flagging. Turn right and follow this for about 600m to an intersection marked by a cairn. Follow the less distinct RH trail a couple of minutes to the top of the cliff.

© (GerryN)

行为准则 取自Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​

  • Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

历史

历史时间线表

Climbers have probably been aware of these cliffs for years, being obvious from the road to Liffey Falls. Gerry Narkowicz scrub bashed up the hill from the western side in May 2006 and realised the potential of the cliff. He made the first climbing trip to the area with Nick Hancock on 10/6/06 and two routes were climbed and another three projects were bolted over three days.

© (GerryN)

标签

部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

线路

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Grade 线路

Large wall, the first cliff you see

The first route on the far LHS of the amphitheatre at the bottom of the descent gully. Nice grade 23 climbing up to the roof, then a desperate boulder problem over the lip of the overhang.

首攀: Nick Hancock, 2006

1 21 25m
2 23 20m

Start: Climbs the big corner below the roof in the centre of the cliff, then joins 'Cryptic Clue' for 2 bolts before heading diagonally, and spectacularly L out to the arête of the buttress. Best done in 2 pitches. Take 13 draws.

  1. 25m (21) Climb easily up the face to the start of the very steep corner below the overhang. A terrific bit of climbing using chimney and bridging techniques up the corner. Step R at the roof to a double bolt belay on a small ledge.

  2. 20m (23) Up the corner on the RHS of the main roof to a stance below another overhang. Head L and overcome the blank hanging slab by a huge reach to a jug (crux). Continue up the L-trending overlap towards the arête, and when the holds run out, turn the small roof of the overlap with a long reach from underclings to a jug over the roof. Finish up the arête. Belay to single FH and glue-in bolt about 3m to L. Descend by abseil from the glue-in anchors to the L and rig slings over the edge.

Double ropes necessary.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz & Nick Hancock, 2006

Starts in a shallow groove about 5m R of the previous route. Some thought provoking and very nice climbing up the groove and face leads to a cruxy section going through the overlaps about a third of the way up, to gain a small ledge. There is a double bolt belay here for The Ruin Of The Cluan, but unnecessary for this route.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2006

The next line R, taking the line of bolts up the centre of the easy angled face. Some nice grade 17 face climbing to half height after which the route steepens, with a tricky move through a small roof. The crux is moving up from a pedestal and overcoming a blank section to gain the top corner. The top corner groove has a couple of cruxy moves and keeps you gripped all the way to the anchors. Lower-off, but double ropes necessary.16 bolts. The first route established at the Cluan Tiers.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2006

Short and powerful. A punchy start on mostly positive holds, then trend left at the top towards the anchors.

首攀: Isaac Lethborg, 2021

Large vegetated rock pinnacle opposite the Amphitheatre. Routes described R to L as this is how they are approached.

Very thin stemming up short corner on rock pinnacle directly opposite the amphitheatre.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2017

On the edge of the pinnacle just R of Clued Up. Balance up using 2 edges and past a little rooflet. Good warm up.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2017

An outrageous looking line taking a rising leftwards traverse underneath the roofs on very small holds before turning the roof out near the arête, then up the final groove to the top. An amazing and spectacular route. Bring up a second then walk off the top of the pinnacle.

首攀: Nick Hancock, 2007

Lower traverse line about 5m below Clued Up. Bring up a second and rap off trending diagonally right to reach the ground (70m ROPE OR DOUBLES REQUIRED)

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2017

50m past Amphitheatre. Route starts behind a large gumtree

About 50m further R of the descent gully amphitheatre is a bolted line up a neat face beside a large eucalypt. Follows a beautiful natural line of features up the centre of the face with some superb, sustained face climbing. An intense, crimpy start, then some nice moves on big holds leads to the crux between the 7th and 8th bolt. A powerful move to gain the stance below the hanging flake, then some funky layaways and heelhooking on the flake leads to a good rest. Easy up the face until a sting in the tail just below the anchors on some rounded laybacks with little for the feet. A classic.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2006

Vegetated rock pinnacle opposite Main Wall

On the far LH side of the wall is a line of 6 bolts up a slightly overhanging wall. Positive handholds all the way with an exciting finish.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2000

Up the centre of the face starting 5m R of the previous route. Climb steeply on some big features to a juggy, runout conclusion. A superb route.

首攀: 2007

On the small pinnacle opposite Blue Suede Clues. Follow right trending groove to the top.

The impressive wall with a big stepped roof, 100m further along from The Amphitheatre

Climbs the left hand edge of the main wall and tackles some unlikely territory for the grade. Superb climbing. Stick clip first bolt. Step off the boulder high on the left and pull round right onto the face. Technical face climbing up to the big roof with a cruxy move moving right to gain the base of the roof. Bridge upwards then traverse left to arete. Move up to gain big underclings with second crux involving funky moves around the bulge. Continue up the corner to top.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2007

The hardest route so far at the crag, following a fantastic line up the face and through the big roof. Start at thin layback seam up the wall, then very thin and technical face/slab moves lead to a stance below the big roof. Stem through this, then traverse spectacularly up and left to a good rest below the final bulge. A cruxy boulder problem guards the anchors.

首攀: Nick Hancock, 2007

Interesting wall climbing and then a technical sequence through the roof. Shares an anchor with P1 of Cluecified.

Climbs Cluecid Dreaming, but continues directly though the intimidating bulge. The hand crack peters out, and is followed by extremely bouldery moves to anchor as for P1 of Cluecified.

定线/开线: Isaac Lethborg & Paul Frothy Thomson, 27 2月 2016

Up open book corner and face to a powerful encounter with the roof, then follow hand crack (#2 camamlot required) trending right to join Cluecified.

首攀: Isaac Lethborg, 2017

Alternative start to Clucifer

定线/开线: Isaac Lethborg

A classic. Long, sustained and powerful. Up the face, crossing the Cluecified traverse, then punching through two roofs to the headwall. Take lots of extendable draws to reduce drag.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2019

1 21 26m
2 23 17m
3 23 42m

A 3 pitch, 85m climb, the only route which goes all the way to the top of the main wall. The first pitch is an exciting and unlikely traverse through the big roof, followed by a brilliant pitch of face climbing above the roof. The third pitch has two cruxy sections through a couple of small roofs with great moves. Take 17 draws.

  1. 26m (21) The first pitch of Cluecified is a remarkable journey, featuring a long but well protected traverse in an intimidating position. Start up the easy groove in the centre of the main wall for 10m, before the long traverse left above the big roof to gain the left slanting ramp. The crux is moving left past an overhang with nothing for the feet and big overhangs underneath, in an intimidating position. This pitch would be an excellent 21 to try as a one pitch route. Rap anchors at belay. 11 bolts.

  2. 17m (23) A superb face climb. 'Layback' up the steep flake off the belay, then traverse right to gain the weakness up the middle of the face. A sustained series of moves up the face with the crux just below the anchors. Belay on small ledge. 8 bolts.

  3. 42m (23) Not a 3 star pitch like the first 2 pitches, but with some terrific and challenging moves nonetheless. Up the easy face just right of the belay (18) to the base of the small overhang. Surmount the roof strenuously to gain the hanging corner (crux) and continue up the line to the second roof. Bridge steeply to a position level with the second bolt in the roof, before traversing right onto the face (crux). Then straight up the wall to jugs, then back left to finish up the easy groove. Double bolt belay on the summit. 14 bolts.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2007

Climbs You and Clues Army, then trends left through headwall.

定线/开线: Isaac Lethborg

Climb Cluecified to the start of the traverse, then head up and right through steep terrain and finish as for Clueless

首攀: Isaac Lethborg, 2019

The bolted route near the centre of the cliff. Tackles some steep territory with the crux going through the bulge after the second bolt. There is another tricky move going through the gap in the roof just below the anchors. 9 bolts. FA: Nick Hancock.

首攀: Nick Hancock., 2006

Climbs Cluaca then heads powerfully left through the headwall.

定线/开线: Isaac Lethborg

Wanders up the wall, trending right near the top to follow hand crack and join into the final moves of Wouldn't Have A Clue. Take lots of extendable draws to reduce drag.

首攀: Isaac Lethborg, 2021

One tricky move (grade 20) between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, then straightforward climbing to the 7th bolt where the route steepens dramatically. Moving R and up the short blank corner is cruxy, then continue strenuously up the overhanging corner/groove to gain a small ledge. Traverse L under the roof in a spectacular position, then turn the roof on the L (cruxy) and continue with some difficulty to the anchors.

An excellent route with some endurance required. 18 bolts.

Start: On the far RH side of the cliff is a line of bolts up a corner/groove with black and white streaks.

首攀: Gerry Narkowicz, 2007

At the far RH end of the main wall. Exciting moves up the steep face and bulges, with the crux near the top.

首攀: Isaac Lethborg, 2021

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Gerry Narkowicz

日期: 2021

国际书号: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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