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讨论巨石

Chateau Bloc 所有Bouldering 14 线路 在 巨石中

  • 难度体系： AU
  • 攀登： 29
14
BLDV
VBVB+V0-V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5V7V9V11

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描述

Two stellar problems on the other side of the bay near the trad area. There are also a number of easier problems in this area...names and grades unknown...

前往

Go right from the car park to the obvious rocky outcrop.

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Grade 线路

Rods Dragon Cave Boulder 回到顶部

Cool little steep boulder tucked in on the west side (beach side) of Castle Rock.

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2
V7 ★★ The Dragon’s Lair 攀石 3m

Rad Line coming out of the cave.

Sit start in the back right of the cave with low pockets. Avoid dabbing the boulder on the right. Come straight out on crimps with some fun tension moves. Little chossy but with some traffic will clean up nicely.

https://youtu.be/y5jeS6xxgfY

首攀: Michael Taran, 10月 2022

3
V2 ★★ Rod's Dragon Cave 攀石

SDS low, slappy on the slopey edge and right jugs. https://youtu.be/y5jeS6xxgfY

首攀: Gareth Wood, 20 11月 2016

4
V2/3 ★ Rod's Dragon Cave, left 攀石

Left variant, a tad harder

Warm Up wall 回到顶部

Well featured face with lots of variants. What is listed is the 3 obvious straight up lines. Pretty much all the variants have been done.

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6
VB Warming up #1 攀石

Sit start and up the obvious scoop feature with a few possible ways to exit.

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7
V0 ★ Warming up #2 攀石

Sit start and then up the arete.

8
V2/3 ★★ Warming up #3 攀石

Sit start with left hand in the scoop and right hand low on the slopey dome-like hold. Come up through the face avoiding going all the way left to join 'Warming up #2' (this link earns you V1). A bit contrived but fun when done in the right spirit.

9
V6 ★★ Mental Blocks 攀石

Sit start with low hands and squeeze your way up. Cruxy to establish then gets easier the higher you go. Avoid using the boulder to the left

Chateau Bloc 回到顶部

Ultra-classic bloc sitting on the sea. One of the most picturesque blocs in the south west!

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11
V7 ★★★ Skipping with your mistress 攀石 3m

Start under the boulder then sloper traverse to slab. https://vimeo.com/119337880

首攀: Andy Lampard, 2月 2015

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12
V1 …But jugs are easy 攀石

Sit start and traverse right on good holds over wet landing

13
V11 ★★★ Crimping ain't easy 攀石 3m

Stand start on low left hand undercling and right hand high on slopey crimp. Hard start, then dyno to lip. https://vimeo.com/119337880

Note: Unfortunately the crimp that you dyno to has broken. The climb remains possible, with a bigger dyno to the lip and a larger swing out. Re-opened 5/6/22 by Tom O'Hallorhan! https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg

首攀: Andy Lampard, 2月 2015

NA: Tom O'Halloran, 5 6月 2022

14
★★★ Crimpin' Ain't Easy SDS 攀石未首攀

Hard sit start.

15
V11/12 ★★★ Whiting Club 攀石

Start as 'Crimping Ain't Easy'. Come out left to sloper and then straight up from sloper. Adds some hard moves to the original. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=320

首攀: Tom O'Halloran, 5 6月 2022

16
Crimping can be harder proj 攀石未首攀

Start as for 'Crimping Ain't Easy' but from the flat edge traverse left over dodgy landing with slopey hold into good holds on the left.

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17
VB Afraid To Get Wet 攀石

Easy slab with a dodgy landing

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V7 ★★★ Skipping with your mistress

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