线路 in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Up the corner and step right onto the ledge. Finishes up the arete

Old 80's project rebolted. Line of rings up the hard blank slab 2-3m right of Technical Stuff, to DRB.

Straight up black face and around the rooflet

The right most route on the short wall before the large cave. Large pocket at undercut start with bouldery moves past 2 RBs, 1 carrot and a further RB

slab 5 m right of Pyro. Technical slab climbing. You'll either love it or hate it!!!! Depending on your skills could be anything between 25-27!!

Starting inside the small overhang straight up the face (avoiding the tree).

Start: The arête immediately left of ‘International Womens Year Cracks’.

Extremely technical climbing up a blunt vertical arête.

Up past three fixed hangers to a slight rest and a small cam placement (Alien or TCU). Continue past a fourth fixed hanger to top.

Belay off tree further back.

18M6 or free at 26 R.

Start: Main corner/crack system on left side wall. Good rock and climbing down low, becoming more serious and difficult towards the top.

Birdbeaks/Peckers may be advisable as increasingly the original fixed pitons are breaking…

Frothy Thomson working Titan

An easy bold start, leads to the crux of Killer Clowns from Outer Space

Classic hairline splitter crack, with a mix of crack and technical face climbing. Visible on your left as you head down the main Pierces Pass walking track. You can access the top rap-anchors for Grasshopper wall via this route: Grasshopper Wall Top Approach GPS Tracklog. Bring a full rack from micro sizes to #3 Cam, with extra small-medium wires (and a set of larger RPs). Start directly below the main crack.

1. 10m (18) - Short, dirty corner and face to ledge with 2 ringbolts. Harder than you want it to be.

2. 40m (25) - Low-angle splitter crack of varying sizes, with fiddly gear to the little rooflet with rings out left. Skip them and continue into the next section of hard moves past the rooflet and wall above, then sustained easier crack and face climbing to the top. Bring lots of wires on this pitch (including the small ones).

A rarely repeated long involved adventure with very tricky route finding, some choss rock and fiddly gear. Bring a full rack, doubles of everything and lots of tiny cams. Double ropes a must, even if you are just using them for retreat! It's much more consumer friendly, and a classic climb, if you do 'Iron Curtain' then pitches 6-9 of this route.

1. 35m (22) This first pitch was originally called 'Bob Yabbie' by visiting first ascentionists David Gilbert and Greg Coterill. Up the dirty badly protected slab to a bulge with a bolt. Difficult through the bulge, then more easily up the slabby cracks and pods (usually full of dirt) to a vegetated ledge with a bolt belay.

2. 25m (21) Directly up past the overlap to a hanging good double friend belay at 25m.

3. 20m (20) A good pitch. Short and interesting weaving up to a ledge and tree on the left.

4. 15m (17) Out right side of ledge and up flake for a few metres until you can traverse hard left to right edge of ledge. Belay off two fixed pins which need to be unearthed. Originally graded 12!

5. 40m (18) Was originally described as "interesting and varied" which translates into choss and danger. Climb directly up and leftwards on disintegrating slab to the tufa hole above. Sink the only good bit of gear on the pitch (3.5 friend) and continue up leftwards past dodgy chicken heads to traverse hard left over scary death flakes to DBB at the base of the orange headwall. Ignore bit of tat up high on traverse.

6. 22m (23) Kickarse. A brilliant pitch. Head up the right-hand weakness on good wires and cams, going for the 'thank god' squeeze chimney rest. Wriggle forth. DBB (fixed hangers) plus a U bolt on the left edge of the ledge.

7. 35m (25) (Or 22M1) This pitch traverses a long way right to the top of the pedestal on average rock, and then moves back left on the face above, finishing directly above the belay. Don't be fooled by the bolts leading directly up from the belay, these are for asteroids (25,26). From the top of the pedestal gymnastic moves past bolts and small cams lead to pockets out left and more bolts. Take care with the final moves (wires) to the DBB.

8. 40m (19) Wandering. Head up the wall on pockets. Move right several metres, bridge across a corner and keep moving up and right up the ramp to a thread and bolt belay.

9. 45m (15) Up following a corner system. Natural belay.

1. 30m (24) Up past three bolts to a hard move rightwards and up into the crack. Up to a double bolt belay.

2. 50m (21) Up and left past bolts to a ledge. 'Superfluid' goes up and right from here, 'Nosferatu' up and left. Climb up the slabs on natural gear, with several long runouts. Belay left of the apex of the steep black wall.

3. 40m (25) (25M1) Up past a sprinkling of bolts. Hard and runout. Natural belay. To abseil move 15m right to chains on 'Superfluid'.

Big corner about 60m north of The Last Wave. corroded gear and rotting flakes

Should win an award for worst route name? Impressive looking wall directly above Redfish Bluefish. 30 year old bolts are probably totally unusable - they look very rusty from below. 2001 guide says the top belay is off shrubs - yikes! Looks like a contender for a rebolt. Ignore the stars until it gets a makeover.

Classic grit style rock, climbing and protection. This has probably only seen one day of action since the first ascent, on this day however the fall from the crux was tested a few times, all walked away happy. A photograph of the FA was published claiming it to be in 'Western Australia', had it been correct and described it as being in the Blue Mountains, this route would have surely seen more attention.

Start part way down the steep gully. Below the obvious shallow slopey layaway. Up to break and into the layaway, yes you have to leave that good foot hold.

"Life without meaning".

An old-school outing. Obsessively climbs the arête between Big Red and It Came From Outer Space for the entire length of the buttress, sharing about 20m of climbing with ICFOS.

Can be climbed as anywhere from 1 to 4 pitches, with the First Ascent being climbed as a 15m pitch and a 55m pitch, belayed from the ground the entire time.

1. 15m (21) - Committing. Start up Big Red for a few moves (wires) until you can clip the carrot out right. Traverse hard right across the face to hanging-arête, then up this trending right (to follow the arête) with committing moves above gear to gain carrot, and eventually 2 x carrot bolt belay. (2 x carrots, Wires, BD #0.4, #3, #4).

2. 25m (26) - Up the arête with a very hard start past 2 x U-bolts, then intimidating and sustained climbing directly up the arête on carrots and gear to 3 x carrot bolt belay. Be very careful with how the rope runs on this pitch to avoid wear/cutting. (3 x carrots, 2 x U-Bolts, 2 x BD #0.5, #0.3).

3. 15m (23) - As for It Came From Outer Space: up insecure arête with a rather demanding crux section to 2 x carrot bolt belay. (6 x carrots).

4. 15m (21) - Directly up the arête with a few tricky moves to top-out and belay chain. 3 x carrots, 1 x U-bolt, BD #1).

P1-4 are the most direct and consistent route to the big cave, well protected with bolts and plenty of gear. P6 is another excellent Bungers headwall pitch. Take 14 or so quickdraws, a few slings, a set of nuts and cams from green alien to #3 camalot, double cams from fingers to hands might be helpful on p4.

Start 3m right of Evolution, first bolt can be clipped by standing in tree.

1. 15m (19) Straight up on flakey jugs past two bolts and gear. Clip 3rd bolt then head diagonally right and up to DBB shared with 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'. 4 bolts plus gear

2. 40m (21) Straight up from the belay. At about 15m follow bolts left a couple of metres to a tricky mantle. Continue up the slab above past gear and bolts. Where the climbing eases off again traverse right across scoop. Up to a comfy belay ledge via the 2m arete with a bolt (stay well away from the dihedral, for obvious reasons!) DBB shared with The Bridge. 8 bolts plus gear.

3. 45m (22) From just left of the belay head straight up the steep wall and the delicate slab above. At 20m, ignore the comfy ledge to your right and blast straight up the rounded prow. At about 40m, follow bolts left 5m to DBB hidden on the side of a small orange cave (shared with Red Heat). Better to belay semi-hanging on the slab rather than grovel in the cave. 12 bolts plus gear.

4. 50m (22) Traverse right out of belay hole, then climb up trending vaguely right. At the cave, mantle carefully and head to DBB at back right (a rope-stretching 50 metres!). This pitch is long and eats cams, take your full rack. 10ish bolts.

5. 20m (23) Punchy. Start easily up the right wall of the cave then a short section of steepness (bolts and gear) to a niche. Traverse left and up past two more bolts, through a gap to finish at a semi-hanging DBB.

6. 30m (25) Cool, pumpy sections separated by excellent rests. Not too hard, but quite sequency. Mostly bolts with a few key bits of gear, take 3 or 4 60cm slings. After the steepness ends, climb easy 6m slab up rightwards past good gear to DBB on top of cliff. 10 bolts plus gear.

1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

4m left of S. Up the blank corner.

Diagonally left to bolt. Corner to 100' Slab halfway ledge.

Start: 3m right of LL.

Direct finish to I was a Teenager for the CIA. 26 in the guidebook.

The bolts on this route are glued in hilti studs with hangers attached (not expansion bolts as some people have suggested).

A hard and varied line.

NB: Can be accessed via a rap from two star pickets in the scrub above.

Stick clip the first bolt. Intense laybacking right off the deck up a shattered face flake. Good gear but absolutely desperate to place. Take care to choose solid placements as the rock at Bombo can be friable.

Clip a second bolt at the top of the Guillotine - this is the thinnest part of the shattered flake and there's no way you'd want to tempt pulling it off with a cam behind it

Take a breather, where the flake joins the main corner crack to its left.

Desperate finger locks and bridging to the top of the pillar on great small gear to a double U bolt lower off.

An all time classic, the beginning of the new wave at Bungonia. The corner crack start is back down and behind the massive jumble of collapsed boulders that peeled away from the bottom of the 'South Wall' when dinosaurs ruled the Earth. 14 quickdraws, including some extenders. Mostly bolts, but take a single set of cams (#0.4-3 camalot) - doubles of 0.75, 1 and 2 for extra comfort - and wires. A second blue camalot (or a big hex) makes the first pitch more comfortable, but you won't need it higher up.

1. 25m (22) The corner, 3 bolts and friends. Belay chain on top of the pedestal.

2. 35m (21) Clip a bolt and move directly up from the belay. Past a few more bolts before traversing a long way right to a DBB on a small ledge. Ignore the line of bolts that goes up about halfway through the traverse

3. 40m (23) Move 2m right, step up and clip a bolt, move up to another, and pull a tricky slab move. Follow the bolts plus some wires up to the belay seat.

4. 35m (22) Move a metre right and clip a bolt in the bulge. Up to a tree/ledge, then up and left to a groove (friends). Traverse 5m left at the top to a DBB and a mostly hanging belay; this is a terrible belay stance considering that there is a big cave/ledge/orifice 5m R which is actually on the line of the route. Hopefully these old belay bolts will be replaced soon and moved 5m R into the comfy cave at the same time.

5. 30m (21) Move 5m back right and bridge up the invaginated orifice (med cams). Step out (wires) and move up to a bolt. Keep heading up and a tad left. Take care on the unprotectable loosish orange rock for the easy last 10m up to the DBB at the base of the beautiful orange headwall.

6. 25m (24) The business. Step left, clip a bolt and cruise up the heart of the amazing orange headwall. A host of wires and friends supplemented by 5 bolts in all. Mega classic and pumpy. DBB on ledge.

7. 15m (26) 5 bolts to DBB. Madonna. Unfortunately this pitch has several chipped holds.

8. 20m (18) Leftwards sloping ramp past 4-5 bolts, thread & small-med cams, to chains just back from the lip. Walk out.

Starts 2m L of BT, up the centre of the wall through a V notch in the low roof following intermittent crack. There is one BR just below this roof, and another just below the high bulge. Chain belay on ledge just below top.

Just left of the arete, about 8m right of FF. ABout 30m R of the abseil.

1. 20m (23) Up and right (BR) then up and left (BR) to flake. Continue up to rounded hold (BR) then head diagonally right (BRs) to crack. Up to ledge.

2. 20m (25) Right out roof then left over bulge and continue left (stance). Blast over roof and up wall above to belay in V corner (BBs and cams).

3. 20m (21) Head diagonally right to slabby corner (as for FF).

Start: As for W&R to first bolt, then right, arete to roof and belay.

Scene of Rob Lebreton's near death groundfall when a bolt pulled. Starts 5m right of Big Meaty at bolt.

1. 10m 24. Stickclip and up along lip to flake. Flake (bolt) to ledge (good pitch).

2. 35m 25. Out left and up wall and bulge to Big Meaty's rap chain. 6 bolts and medium cams.

Climb the thin corner left of arete to a cave then finish via 2 bolts and a letter-box slot

A wild pitch of face climbing, starting from the major ledge halfway down the wall right of Echo Crack. Rather complicated to get to.

Mostly bolted, but sparsely so. Bring cams 0.3 to 0.75 for the traverse exit to P2.

1. 40m (26) Traverse right from the belay, then very hard moves to get started, followed by sustained face climbing with some wild runouts. 2 Bolt belay.

2. 10m (18) As for Alive in a Bitter Sea, traverse left past carrots and some trad gear to belay at the top of Echo Crack.

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.2, #0.3, #3, #4, and Doubles of #0.4 to #2.

1. 40m (25) - Bolt, #2, #2, #0.5, #0.3, Bolt, #1, #0.75 + #0.2, #1 + #0.75, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.4, #0.5 to 2 Bolt anchor.

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #1, #0.4, and 4 Bolts to 2 Bolt anchor.

3. 15m (18)

As for Tipitina. Up the steep wall trending left along seam then back right and up to chain in Fingertip Control (placed there by misunderstanding - but left there). Four bolts in total.

As per 'Evolution' to double bolt belay end pitch 3.

Start: Start in the rainforest 30m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, it's not a taste of what's to come.

1. 15m (15) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 1.

2. 35m (22) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 2.

3. 40m (21) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 3.

4. 25m (18) Easily up slab past 'Evolution' and 'Scorpion' to small tree, past this to ring bolt then continue under overhang to double ring belay.

5. 40m (24) 'Steep' but easy through overhang to thread, step right then up wall with big holds, rings and friends (3.5 essential in bombproof slot). Rest at small stance as the wall becomes slightly off vertical, crux moves past last 3 or 4 rings. DRB belay at stance.

6. 30m (24) Good pitch, difficult to onsite. Awkward slab to stance below a short overhanging wall, pumpy and technical up the wall then hard moves to gain small ledge, bouldery moves to step left and get established on another short steep wall which leads to ledge. This is the big ledge where you belay for the last pitch of 'Old and Grey', 'Scorpion' & 'Storm Front'. DRB belay

7. 30m (25) Great pitch, mostly rings, friends in final crack. 'Steep' slab leads to short steep wall with hard moves, then a short easy slab. Traverse on to steep wall above the overhang and very delicate climbing for several metres to a pocket, (crux). Fine climbing up wall to base of crack, crack and flake for several metres to small ledge. DRB belay.

8. 20m (19) Easy but nice wall to top. Thread and ring bolt belay.

Partially toproped (upper half only)

Start: 3m right of Tal.

A punchy little line. Up the initial easy crack, small good gear, U bolt, then techo moves protected by U bolt to switch into the next crack to the left. Hard moves into the corner, then even harder moves up the thin finger crack, technical bridging (use the right arete).

Double U bolt lower off

Entry level at the grade -but very involved, despite the objectively soft grading.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1 x #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #4; 3 x #3; 4 x #1; and at least 7 Long Runners.

1. 45m (26) - Gear in Order: Bolt + LR, #0.3 + #2 + XLR, Bolt + LR, #1, #3 (Optional), Bolt, #3, #0.5 (Optional), Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #4 (Optional), #1 + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + LR, Bolt + XLR, #1 (Optional), #0.4, #0.75/#1 (Optional), #3, Bolt, to 2 Bolt anchor.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and Bolt anchor.

Amazing rock architecture. Also a way to get onto Big Greenie.

Starts in the corner about 20m upstream of Polenta Pumper.

1. 20m (25) Up the corner past 3 bolts then left and up onto the slab. More slopes past another bolt lead into a groove (friends and wires) then up onto a sloping ledge. A ridiculous move out left past a final bolt then up to a chain belay.

2. 35m (19) A great pitch on fantastic orange rock with heaps of threads. Up to a bolt on the slab above, then up and left to the base of the orange corner. Up this past 2 bolts. Belay on threads amongst the carcasses.

3. 10m (22) (18/22) Steep. Climb onto the right wall of the cave and up the bulges above, past many good threads. A cave offers sanctuary on the lip. From here step out right and up to belay chains. 2 raps to the ground.

Apparently ok, but rarely done. Start right of Chook Lotto, off the same boulder.

An aesthetic and fitting finish to Evolution for those seeking a little more action at the end of the day. Originally climbed onsight due to poor route finding with insufficient gear. A subsequent repeat ascentionist of the pitch however found an additional placement making it quite reasonable. Be sure to take a thin spectra/dyneema sling. Climb as for Evolution pitch 7 for the first 3-4 bolts as they head through the initial boulder problem and then leftward. From the short section of grey tufas and cam placements, continue straight up in the direction of a lone bolt 5m above. From this bolt traverse right along a thin break with delicate moves to finish up the low angled terrain and corner (now shared with Pumpmaster).

The all free version of Gigantor. Listed separately to the aid version, as aiding Gigantor is still quite popular.

Atmospheric and extremely engaging! A true sustained cliff-splitter.

As a free route, it has a bit of everything - Jamming, armbars, pinkys, pockets and the occasional edge. Some loose rock and the occasional runout. Belays are all ok -provided you equalise everything and make use of any natural pro you can find.

Don't even think of rebolting this one!!

Traverse right at the bolt ladder near the top, and follow the line of least resistance.

Watch this Video with Zac Vertrees about the route.

Wall to arete and up.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 008.

A few moves up Eternity, then right and up long face. Old bolts that seem ok, but the high crux is a series of chipped pockets.

Once the MEGA line of the cliff it was tried by D. Radical Thomas for the best part of a day but no progress could be made off the ground by more than a few feet. Ralph tried it after Ferret gave the line a going over with his trusty hammer and eventually succeeded before becoming benighted on the top part of the route. The last ten or so metres are slightly poxy but an easy escape can be made by cruising left after the main crack. The climb itself is a thin crack that's climbed using chimney techniques against the opposite wall, the crux is probably near the deck, there is a harder bit higher up but you feel vaguely immortal after the start but not before.

(1) The crack in the alcove to the right of SF. Up the crack escaping out left at the choss.

Start as for TW. Then up and left.

Closed project stay off.

The name aptly describes the style of climbing at the quarry. Whilst cleaning this route Ferret was heard to mutter 'I don't like frigging climbs, I just do it out of habit.' This baby rears it's ugly bum with the major problem of not having any footholds where it counts, i.e. on the rock. Apart from that little drawback it's quite a good climb up a very thin finger crack, creeps with fat digits: better pound them down with a hammer or blow them off with explosives if they want to get up this unit.

(1) The next crack in the wall to the right of SS.

Apparently very good - "if you have the nerves." The traverse bolts have been re-positioned, but the next few are still hard to clip. The top is still a little run out... unless you take a cam. Start off the same ledge as Vanity Case but traverse leftwards for 10m off the ledge, then up. Put extenders/rollers on bolts 3-6. Has a direct start which is still a closed project.

Starts 2m L of the chimney. Sequency moves on a vertical wall. Up to a flake at 5m then slap up to a good ledge. Continue up past easier ground to the cave. Bolt belay needs brackets. Four fixed hangers and a # 1.5 cam.

Start 3m left of HB.

Obvious roof crack 5 metres right of Bunny Bucket’s pitch 6 start. Use the first 3 bolts of BBB’s pitch 6, climb up to ceiling and then traverse right (size 6 cam to protect) to enter the roof crack. Requires two 5s and one 6 size cams.

Climb easy face and finish at trad belay on obvious ledge (BD 2 and small wires).

Rope drag is manageable on a single rope with 1-2 roller carabiners and several long slings.

Rappel from trad anchor to clean face (60m rope is fine). Re-lead and then back clean roof and traverse.

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a Point Perp route. Rap off rings at top of arete 15m SW of Midnight Lightning to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

Finishes off what THC started. From the big scoop at the 4th hanger, climb leftwards past 2 more fixed hangers up to double U bolt belay.

First pitch (35m approx) is great crack with good gear which might feel spaced at times (crux). Most climbing involves various techniques as opposed to pure splitters. Lots of face climbing and the jamming isn't totally straight forward. Very cruxy, most climbing is around grade 20ish apart from two short sections. Second pitch (20m) can definitely go straight up (slightly left) at grade 20ish but be warned that rock quality is nowhere as good as first pitch and the gear is mostly rattly tricam type of thing with only few ok cams. It seems like there might an escape pitch(es?)to the left involving fairly unprotected traverse on easy ground. Grades, FA, FA 2nd pitch, name are unknown and will be updated.

Starts as for Faith P2, go to second bolt, then step down and traverse left until half way across the wall. Up flakes.

Through pockets and move at U bolt 5m R of ECOT. Then Cams (#0.4 , #0.5 , #0.75 , #3) to line of hangers and RB , staying in the orange rock and finishing at Ecot lower off. Hard cruxes with a nice jug in the middle.

Arapiles style Trad climbing with bouldery moves and rad jugs. Bomber gear and easy to place... get on it.. DBB.

Direct start to PB.

Start: Rap to the bottom. Corner on the right side of the butress (looking in). Up to belay of PB, then up.

Start 2m left of Charity.

Middle of right side ledge. Bouldery moves off the ground to get past past 2 FHs and up to undercling and a good cam. Move out left and up using side of block to get onto slab. Small cams and little wires protect moves to large break. At break traverse slightly left to get slopey ramp with a fixed hanger that has tricky moves overcoming bulge. Step right to finish up thin seam protected with small RP’s. Belay up and left on RB anchors. Stella Line!

1. 7 - The approach slabs and traverse to get to the climb proper.

2. 24 - perhaps, hard mantling layaway using small arete and footer under roof to gain a respite on a decent ledge for a rest before launching up through a series of right leaning overhung handcrack breaks and bulges. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

3. 16 - slab to spear lilly belay, start off from the top of pitch 2 and go left around and underneath the spear lilly belay hanging blocks.

4. 25 - Start from spear lilly belay, head right up and across slab into the obvious corner, reach out for a fabulous jug on the mantle ledge, swing up onto ledge from whence the hard small traverse left starts, clip bolt and then continue left to establish oneself in obvious crack, up directly to belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

5. 20 - From belay trend left up blocky ramp being careful not to get sucked in too far left, continue up through the first easy system and then back to the right to find 2 widely spaced bolts, equalise these for a killer belay to observe the shenanigans of the roof coming up next.

6. 23 - Clip the high bolt of the belay before dropping down low and plugging a couple of aliens in out wide along the traverse line on almost non existent feet , drop a bit lower for good feet and then climb up directly under roof bolt. Yeah it`s goey hey, get on out there through that roof, campus up on rugositys to stand on the lip and then swim through the spear lilly to plug wide gear in crack behind lilly, continue up wide dirty crack to bomber anchor. Back this anchor up with a couple of cams as there is the distinct possibility of a climber falling direct on to this anchor due to the next section being so thin and poor gear direct off the belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

7. 24 - Work those aliens and wires in baby and hold on for the ride of your life fortunately this thin seam is not overhung unlike the hand crack which this seam leads to so test that gear bucko, continue up the overhung handcrack to where it blanks out to find yourself at a walrus ledge containing thin fingers and crimpers, belly flop on to that sloper walrus ledge to find yourself with one more block to get over before arriving at a fabulously comfortable belay complete with garden and at least one square foot of space to stand on, it's practically a bivvy ledge. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

8. 17 - Skirt right to skyline then trend left, take care to talk to your belayer as anchors are a direct rope fall/abseil above Pitch 8 anchors. By talking to your belayer you should be able to orient his voice to the line of fall as this slab can suck you in way left.

9. 16 - We did change out the Fixe hangers and leaver biners to Double rap ring Fixe hangers.

10. There is a possibility of adding a further pitch to this route to top out.

A good slightly runout adventure up a long wall that starts up Pure Spirit's corner then straight up bolted wall above. The print guidebook says this is a sport route - it is not. Bring a big cam for the start (#5 camalot - and a handful of finger/fist cams for wall section leading up to the very high first bolt). The grade 25 crux is at the 6th bolt - but can be easily avoided at grade 23 by climbing 1m right of the bolt.

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles.

Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish. Chain anchor or top out.

Short. Start a few metres left of the "39 Steps" ladder on ledge at brightly painted "T".

Climbs a rad orange streak in this grey wall next to Grasshopper, in a great exposed position. P2 and P3 can be combined for a long, continuous pitch of challenging face-climbing. Start as for Grasshopper.

1. 10m (15) Grasshopper P1.

2. 15m (23) 9 Bolts. Up Grasshopper for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet. This pitch can be combined with the next pitch.

3. 20m (25) 7 Bolts. A great technical pitch, but kinda wandery. From the belay, up reinforced flake system, and bust out left to bright orange streak (crux). Up this for 2m, then back right via hard moves on flakes to other orange streak. Up thin face to horizontal break, then up through a final thin sequence to the anchors.

Amazing, sustained, old-school-demanding mixed climbing up an eye-catching face and arete, with two desperate mantles to make you realise how weak you really are.

Start: 'Small' flake right of undercut arete. 10m right of IMaMfOS.

Recommended rack: 12 bolt plates, small-medium wires, single cams #1 and #2, double cams #0.3, #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #3.

1. 35m (25) 'Flake', mantle, then left above the undercut past 2 carrots. Up to below the footledge. Left to arete and bolt. Up via hellish mantle to another bolt, then face and arete past 4 more carrots and gear to hanging belay on carrots. 8 carrot bolts.

2. 20m (23) Shale ledge to steep arete. To break then left side of arete. Wall and arete to ledge belay. 5 carrot bolts, no supplemental gear.

3. 15m (19) 'Small' bulge on bad rock and flakes right of the belay. Up past 2 carrots and gear, trending left to arete and topout (1 carrot + bollard). 2 carrot bolts.

The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.

A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it.

Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers.

There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.

1. 15m (8) Traverse diagonally left from spear-lillys across very easy slab to crack. Up for a few moves to single ring-bolt belay under bulging roof. FA Phil Box.

2. 35m (A2 14) Aid past 2 bolts to gain pocket and then crack. Up this overhung crack to stance. Continue up wide crack to DBB. FA Phil Box.

3. 15m (15) Slab up and left for ten metres, then back right to belay at spear-lilly and DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

4. 30m (A2) Up short slab to corner and FH. Up and right onto stance then bat-hook and bolt left two metres to crack. Up this onto slab and DBB. FA Nick McKinnon

5. 20m (A2+ 14) Straight up slab to climb thin cracks. Trend left and up blocky hand crack. When this blanks out aid up then move right to bolt, bat hook and finally free up to DBB. FA Neil Monteith

6. 20m (A2 16) 'Phil's Traverse' - Climb directly right to below overhanging left leaning ramp. Aid through overhang with bolt and pull over this to spear-lilly. Climb wonderful hand and fist crack for ten metres to DBB. FA Phil Box

7. 25m (A2+ 12) Aid thin seams off belay for three metres to super hand crack. When this finishes go right through bulges then easily up and left to DBB on good ledge. FA Nick McKinnon

8. 40m (15) Free climb on slabby ground up and right below overhang. Back left and up hand-crack then onto bushy ledge. Up a few more metres to DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

9. 50m (17) A rope stretcher! Straight up to gain left leading crack. Lay back up this then onto slab with bolt. After this run it out heading slightly left for ages to arrive at last DBB. A further 100m of slabby vegetated rock is above this. Unless you like evil bush-bashing, it's recommended to rap off here. FFA Neil Monteith

Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet)

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

Start as for 'Mind the Gap'. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers.

Up thin seam, past FH then up to the easier corner. Good #0.3 in horizontal break to the right and if using double ropes there is also a good 0.2-0.3 in horizontal break on the left. Continue up to anchors on block at top.

Upgraded in latest guide. Start at the crack 1m or so R of Samson Gets a #1 and follow this up to the arete. Go around the arete and past one bolt (has a biner on it as of 04/18) to desperate, disintegrating and gripping crux sequence that gets harder every time someone pulls on. If you manage to old school your way through this, continue up the slowly falling apart crack to the ledge. Rap off the block above Samson.

The obvious face with the 2 ring bolts. Nice thin moves lead the way up this classic face. Continue out right under the small roof the cut back across left to top out.

(Link Up) Start up Sick Cows On Acid and do the crux, clip the 2nd bolt and move up to the higher break. Hand Traverse right (gear) and finish up Hip and Hunky Rhythm taking the final bolt and anchors.

Tackles the steep orange wall starting left of the finish of 'Rise and Fall' (and 10m left of its start). Up past four bolts (crux at second) then generally straight up to an easier finish past some good placements.

Open V corner in the main northern Quarry. Over near the right side just to the right of the swampy section. Can be identified by the following pointers; Row of small dyna bolts up the right wall. Once used for Yosemite aid training by Reg, now rusted to blobs. Lower offs at the top, again by Reg. Top is clear of overburden debris. White painted square at bottom of climb and initials. First climbed as an aid route by Bill James this open book corner was later climbed in the typical siege ethic of the day. Hard stemming and finger locking with fiddly but good gear all the way up. Many falls were taken some with a loop of slack in hand while clipping. Expect a battle as Ferret was a crack master & The Man of Steel was the most powerful being to have ever graced the local cliffs with his presence. Will need a clean between the 37 year ascent cycle it now experiences.

Climb the arete direct for the last few bolts (the original traverses left up the face away from the arete for 2 bolts).

Start as for The Kraken. Takes the steepish wall 3-4m R of The Kraken. Check if it's still got bolts; there was talk of debolting this one.