Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Victoria North West Arapiles 关闭的 Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
20 | ★ Brit Milah
High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt. Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay. 首攀: Mark Wood, Ben Storey & Steve Wilson, 2011 | 12m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★★ Little Thor
The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped. Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws. 首攀: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 1965 自由首攀: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles 关闭的 Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder | |||||
V1 | V1 Problem (a)
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ V1 Problem (b)
| 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ S
| 6m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | |||||
20 | ★ The Wizard of Id
Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge. 首攀: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Popeye
Start in V corner, soon moving left until under large jammed blocks. Pull through the bulge, then up vertical seam, then step up and left. Soon after, traverse left to the ledge with rap station. 首攀: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Christian Crack
Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of Colosseum Wall - this is the left one. Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. 首攀: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 自由首攀: Joe Friend, 1974 | 13m | |||
20 | I've Got A Big Honker
The usual claim of those who don't... Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge. 首攀: Sam Blainey & Andrew White, 1991 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls | |||||
20 | ★ Bermuda Triangle
The corner, then R around the roof. Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag. 首攀: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977 | 12m | |||
20 | Ddark Ddigit
Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it. Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page). 首攀: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981 | 40m | |||
20 | A Sore Thumb
Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam. Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'. 首攀: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988 | 40m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger | |||||
20 | The first six inches
Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof. Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake. 首攀: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999 | 20m | |||
20 | Voices in my head
Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess. 首攀: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla. (Improved LHF by Jon Bassindale & Nikki Sutherland), 2000 | 21m | |||
20 | Gutless Gutless Bunny
Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket. Up line. 首攀: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | |||||
20 | ★ Shakin' Stevens
Up to the top of the flake, R, up. Start: Start 2m R of BC. 首攀: Mike Law, Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1982 | 18m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | |||||
20 | Pain Club
Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery. Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill. 首攀: Mike Law & solo, 1981 | 10m | |||
20 | Boo
The grey wall. Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'. 首攀: Chris Shepherd & Paul Hoskins, 1982 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Kryptonite Krack Area | |||||
20 | So Help Me God
Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock. Start: Start 5m R of TS. 首攀: Mark Moorhead & Dave Fearnley, 1982 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | |||||
20 | ★★ Pilot Error
More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge. Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book. 首攀: Ian Anger, 1980 | 12m, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Cul-De-Sac
Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney. 首攀: Nick Reeves, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Martin, Ed Neve & Rod Young, 1979 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Lex Luthor
Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between Pilot Error Ledge and Lois Lane Wall.
首攀: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991 | 40m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Excuse me Lex
Link up of Excuse me While I Belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. No stepping onto the massive chockstone. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20. Can lower off with 60m rope. | 32m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area | |||||
20 R | Permanent Wave
Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.
首攀: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 40m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae House of Atreus | |||||
20 | Tiresias
Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.
首攀: Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977 | 38m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||
20 | Nanga Parbat Solo
Start R of Clytemnestra at a little gully heading towards Agamemnon. Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off. 首攀: Mike Law & solo, 1982 | 10m | |||
20 | ★★★ Wizard of lce
Possibly the best crack at Arapiles. The diagonal elephant's butt crack is a classic of the genre. Start just left of Agamemnon and finish where that route does. Belaying off the rings is not ideal but there are some excellent features to sling. 首攀: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1975 | 35m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Steel Delinquency Pinnacle | |||||
20 | Steel Delinquency
"If you enjoy crumbling sea cliffs, you might feel at home on this" (Mentz-Tempest guide). Climb through moss to a ledge, to stand below the striking grey prow. Some gymnastic moves are required to get started, and if your second is not tall they will struggle to remove the gear you placed out of their reach at this point. Follow the line of pockets up, veering left at the end. 首攀: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 18m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Good and Evil Blocks | |||||
20 | Vladivostok
Start at the small flake but step L and then up. Start: Start 2m R of CS. 首攀: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1995 | 15m | |||
20 | Stocktake
Straight up the flake. Start: Start as for V. 首攀: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1995 | 15m | |||
20 | Critical Realists Are Chastened Moderns
Start on the L to gain the diagonal. Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle. 首攀: Tim Day & Louise Shepherd, 1991 | 12m | |||
20 | Beyond Good and Evil
The face. Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM. 首攀: Tim Day, Nick Neagle & Craig Roberts, 1992 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Finger Prince Pinnacle | |||||
20 | Stirling Moss
Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak. Start: Start as for FP. 首攀: Kevin lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 2000 | 25m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | |||||
20 | ★★ Cadenza
Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow the diagonal left into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse right to a tricky exit. 首攀: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965 自由首攀: Andrew Thomson, 1975 | 20m | |||
20 | Semi-Quaver
Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of 'D Minor'. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start: Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the 'Quaver' chimney.
首攀: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994 | 30m, 2, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||
20 | ★★★ Tannin Direct
Makes a good change. 首攀: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little., 1985 | 20m | |||
20 | Low Note
A worthless approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof. Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to FH then up to chains. 首攀: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter., 1984 | 30m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Eye of the bunny
Left to right over nose. Sit start. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Over the eye
| 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Obvious Problem on Back Left
| 3m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area | |||||
20 | Star Search
Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line. Up this. 首攀: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995 | 12m | |||
20 | Doddle
Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish. 首攀: Robin Miller & Nyrie Dodd, 1982 | 10m | |||
20 | Piking Metre
Try not to pike right. Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'. 首攀: H & L, 1995 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||
20 | Beautiful Possibilities Direct Start
Boulder the start... 首攀: Michael Woodrow, 1991 | 36m | |||
20 | ★ Mind Games
Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow. 首攀: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978 | 25m | |||
20 | Fish Doubt
The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus. 首攀: Chris Baxter & Brian Fish, 1984 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar | |||||
20 | ★ Dino
The line on the front of the pillar - no piking L or R. The pillar was first climbed via the crack at 16 in 1975. 首攀: Kevin Lindorff & John Smart, 1978 | 13m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | |||||
20 | ★★ Bam Bam
Start: The R crack. 首攀: Roland Pauligk, 1968 自由首攀: Nic Taylor, 1975 | 12m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall | |||||
20 | Wussted
The curving corner. Start: Start at the middle of the wall. 首攀: Glenn Tempest & Paul Aubrey, 1980 | 9m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | |||||
20 | Ouah Con C'est Edlinger
The thin crack in the front face of the block. Start: Start beneath the small block below 'Paladin'. 首攀: Louise Shepherd & Ian Ravenscroft, 1983 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ A Boy and His Dog
To ledge, then committing to gain the hanging corner on the arete just R of the top of 'Die Loaded'. Start: Start at the top of DS. 首攀: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress | |||||
20 | Glass Goblin
Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!" Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.
Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish. 首攀: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 25m, 2 | |||
20 | Shattered
The R-leaning sickle. Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face. 首攀: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978 | 16m | |||
20 | ★ Delicacy
The thin crack. Start: Start at the R end of the wall. 首攀: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | |||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior
An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high. Start below the major crack on the right side of the wall, 2m L of the Droop Street arete. Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top. 首攀: Glenn Tempest, Joe Friend & John Chapman, 1976 | 30m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | |||||
20 | ★ John's Corner Direct
From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route. | 25m, 1 | |||
20 | Entering the Gelf Zone
On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear. 首攀: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1996 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
20 | Piece of Shit
Start as for F. Traverse L past F and up the Intransience face (see the Cecilia Wall area). 首攀: Jon Muir & solo, 1985 | 35m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Indecisivity
Slab, crack, then steep but somewhat contrived arête. Take some wires and mid size cams for the middle section. 首攀: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 9 1月 2016 | 15m, 5 | |||
20 | Puggle Burrow
From the start of PN, scramble up gully towards base of vegetated, mossy corner (Gethsemane). Just before the corner is a seam and groove to a ledge then a crack up the orange and black wall to big orange roof. At roof, traverse left to anchors on PN. Don't lower off with a 50m rope. 首攀: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 10 1月 2016 | 26m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Everyfin, Everyfin, Like That & Everyfin | |||||
{US} V1 | ★ Town Hall Water Gauge
| ||||
{US} V2 | ★★ Black Pudding
| ||||
V2 | ★ Spear and Jackson
| ||||
{US} V1 | ★ Gangsters Moll
| ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | |||||
20 | The Sting
The overhang and wall R of AW. Start just R of AW. 首攀: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★ Wild Arts
An enjoyable long pitch if linked, but do two pitches if the second is any chance of dropping the crux near the ground. Start as for Wild Oats.
Descend by making a roped traverse left, either 5m to (an easy) reverse mantle to the chains of Taste Sensation (33m rap) or 15m to the DRB of Berserk (25m rap). 首攀: Simon Mentz, 1998 | 40m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Wild Oats
Start under the SE arete of the Reaper Buttress, 2m R of Incest and 6m L of Red Parrot Chasm.
首攀: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Bowman (with an aid nut), 1974 | 70m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||
20 R | ★ Man Shy
Start 2m R of RS.
首攀: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 35m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Dry Reach
Start 1m R of Preludes. Up to small stance. A couple of commiting moves lead up to a bolt, then a slippery crux gains a shallow R-facing corner to rap anchors on the ledge. Lower off. Alternatively at the top go up the finger crack of Stalagmite for a few moves and then right up the headwall. It feels a bit loose up there so take care and warn people below. 首攀: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 1月 2015 | 18m, 1 | |||
20 R | Atrophy
Thin and bold. Start R of Preludes, and directly opposite Scourge (which is on Minstrel Pinnacle). Short crack, then trend R at bulge to large flake. Up L to 2nd bulge then roof. 首攀: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 30m | |||
20 | Marginal Era
Start R of A. The rib on the L of the smooth wall, past break, until it eases off. Now traverse R then go up. 首攀: Keith Lockwood & Graham Jones, 1985 | 25m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle | |||||
20 R | ★ Scourge
The central line with poor pro at first. Start: Start in the chasm, in the middle of the north face of Minstrel Pinnacle. 首攀: Andrew Thomson & Mike Stone, 1978 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | |||||
20 | Streaming
Up past 'Oh Bondage' there's a tight gully with a slender buttress in it. Obvious but not worthwhile. Probably should be in 'Skyline Walls' section. Start up orange flake 2m R of major crack then scramble up ledges. Finish through overhang. 首攀: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1983 | 30m | |||
20 | Los Endos Direct Start
The ugly black crack beneath the belay of LE. Start: Start R of SS. 首攀: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | |||||
20 | ★★ Scarecrow
Climb Arab p3 for 4m then step L and up. Stay out of Saracen and traverse R along the lip of the roof, to join a thin crack, straight on up the face, and take the roof by the R. The original route has a poxy independent first pitch starting 10m L of Saracen but you're far better off approaching via Arab as described. Start at Arab's second belay. 首攀: Chris Baxter & Russell Crow, 1984 | 28m | |||
20 | African Night Flight
Go R under roof to juggy exit. Start on the ledge above Icecream Man. 首攀: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Televisual Laxative
As for Visual Laxative to the first ledge, then dodge the crux by going straight up the flake to the second ledge. 首攀: Oz & Douglas Hockly, 2015 | 35m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds 关闭的 Fang Buttress | |||||
20 R | Vaunted
This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang. Start: Start as for O-W. 首攀: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins & Jane Wilkinson, 1983 | 25m | |||
20 R | A Bit on the Side
Not much pro. Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall. 首攀: Hoskins, Smith & Pritchard, 1995 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds 关闭的 Plaque | |||||
20 | They Shoot Horses Don't They
A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers. Start: Start on the far L. 首攀: Matt Taylor, Peter Megens & Peter Cyganowski, 1977 | 30m | |||
20 R | ★ Doobie
Worthless pro! 首攀: Andrew Thompson, 1975 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Face and flake
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Hideous Mantle
| 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Golden Streak
| 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Wee Holds 2 Corner
| 4m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Grey Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ SW side traverse
Start at bottom sloping side of SW side of the boulder. Traverse along the lip then round nose and up. | 5m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders No Hands Boulders | |||||
V2 | ★★ no hands traverse then sharp arete
| 3m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Big Pointy Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ V2 Reachy Wall
| 5m | |||
V1 | ★ V1 Middle of face
| 5m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Animal Acts | |||||
V1 | Petit matelas
Starting on the two obvious crimps and using the sidepull to make your way right . Avoid using the obvious juggy ledges. Finishes on the round white marble-y hold. | 3m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Unkown Boulder Golden Streak area | |||||
V1 | ★★ Unknown, Inverted roof problem
| 2m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Perfect jam boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★ Perfect jam slot
Stand start in jam then up left and top out. Looks like a quite hard sit start has been done | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ South traverse
Start on the up hill end and traverse right all the way to the same top out as the jam slot | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder | |||||
V1 | V1
On the trackside of the boulder. Up big suspect flakes. | 4m | |||
V2 | V2
Rising traverse left, then up on spaced but good holds | ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder | |||||
V1 | 1
Traverse R to L | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ 6
Tenuous smooth wall just L of jugs | ||||
V1 | ★★ 13
Rounded arete on good holds | ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Trackside/Hammer Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Dead Blow
Sit start on obvious jug, then straight up to top out via ledge. | 3m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders The Playground | |||||
V1 | ★★ Slab behind first boulder off track
|