From the hut, walk up N/NE around the base of east face of the Dibona until you reach the foot of the Brèche des Clochetons. Scramble up towards the left on some very easy slabs to find the start of the route at the base of the obvious couloir leading to the Brèche des Clochetons, left of the Clochetons Gunneng.
All pitches are approx. 40m, requiring up to 7 draws.
approx. 40m (5a, crux) Head up the slab slightly towards the left, aiming for a small overhang. Below the overhand, traverse to the left for a few steps. A moderately high rockover move on the left foot gets you just below the first belay (3 bolts, cordelette).
approx. 40m (4c) Head straight up the slab from the first belay until the bolts start veering off to the right. Traverse right as soon as possible using the obvious line until you are almost below the second belay (3 bolts, cordelette).
approx. 40m (3c) Head straight up the easy slabs, obvious line.
approx. 40m (3c) Head straight up the easy slabs, obvious line.
approx. 40m (3c) From the 4th belay, head diagonally up to the left, crossing over a couloir coming down from the base of the Clochetons, and continue up and leftward towards the Brèche des Clochetons. The last belay (2 bolts, cordelette) is located on the arète with a comfortable platform on the other side.
