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1 5 35m
2 4+ 30m
3 4+ 25m
4 2 50m
5 4+ 35m
6 5- 35m
7 4+ 45m

描述

Start of the climb: GPS 46.508,11.303 A few cams and slings can be useful.

The area around the start of the climb has been obviously cleared of vegetation, and the rock cleaned. You can see a tree with a fixed sling approx. 5 metres off the ground from the base.

  1. [35m, V] Follow the crack diagonally up to the left, around a tree with a thread. Trend right up the slab following bolts up to the horizontal crack in the overhang. Traverse under the overhang to the right and then sightly to the right up to the anchor o 2 bolts.

  2. [30m, 5b+] From the belay, go left to the small wall with bolts. After that cross upwards to the left again to the next wall and follow the bolts to the bolted anchor.

  3. [25m, IV +] Up the slabs (3 bolts) to a ledge. Follow this for 5 bolts, immediately after, you find the anchor (2 bolts).

  4. [50 m, II, 1 bra] The Borneo Expedition. Up approx. 5m to the fixed rope, follow the rope through bushes and ledges to the next stand at two bra. Watch out for the loose rocks! (Variant on the standard route: go right for 20m and you will see the two new pitches up the corner: 1. pitch: 5c, 20m 9 bolts. 2. pitch: 6a+, 30m, 14 bolts November 2021 / Dennis Moser and Gabriel Mangera)

  5. [35 m, IV +] Follow the arete, very nice climbing with little pockets and and knobs. Anchor on two bolts.

  6. [35 m, V-] Continue up nice climbing on arete/slab nice up to a ledge. Climb next small wall with a crack (1 bolt). Official anchor on fixed tat off large pine tree. Recommended to use first bolt of pitch 7 and slung rock as anchor. Rope drag & directional pull better.

  7. [45 m, IV+] Continue up corner, follow 3 bolts up to a vertical wall, go around to the right, up some blocky ledges (1 bolt). Pass a slung tree to the right, and over the last small wall to the anchor (2 BH)

Descent: From the top anchor, follow the tracks to the right. They lead you down to the dirt track a about 100 m from the farm house.

线路历史

2月 2020首攀: Luca De Giorgi & Peter Warasin

警告

位置

纬度/经度: 46.50929, 11.30193

难度引用

V, IV+, IV+, II, IV+, V-, IV+ 难度等级
tgbuckley482
Luca De Giorgi
6+ [6- - 6+] ++ AI难度(grAId)系统

季节分布

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

季节分布

路线质量

超级经典
经典
很好
一般
不值一提
糟糕

基于 10个评价的综合得分为 63。

打卡类型

视攀 4
红点 5
打卡 12
尝试失败 1

评论关键字

lovely pleasant great fun good hard

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